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NOTES OF TRAVEL 



IN 



SOUTH-WESTERN AFRICA 



Karl ^by 

-e: J. ANDERSSON, 

Author of "Lake Ngami," ''The Okavango River," Etc., Etc. 



NEW YORK: 
G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS, 

FOURTH AVENUE* AND TWENTY-THIRD STREET. 

I875. 



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JAN 24 1946 
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PREFACE. 



T N the preface to Andersson's recent work, " The Lion 
-*- and the Elephant," edited by myself, it was stated 
that, if well received by the public, I should probably 
give out other of his Memoranda in my possession, re- 
lating to his more recent Travels ; and as the above- 
named work has proved a sifccess, I now proceed to fulfil 
my promise. 

Owing, however, to severe illnesses, brought on by 
the hardships Andersson underwent during his early 
travels ; to wounds inflicted by wild beasts, and to his 
broken fortunes, which compelled him to devote the 
greater part of his time to mercantile, instead of, as 
heretofore, to scientific pursuits, he was in a great degree 
prevented from following up his explorations in un- 
known lands, and hunting the Elephant, and other 
denizens of the forest, as in by-gone days. Hence the 
reader of these pages must not expect to find in them 
quite so many stirring adventures by flood and field, as 
are recorded in his earlier publications, viz. : " Lake 



IV PREFACE. 

N garni," and ■ ' The Okavango River." Had he, however, 
lived to explore the countries to the north of the River 
Cunene (at present comparatively little known in Eng- 
land), as was his full purpose, he would, no doubt, have 
had much to narrate of both a new and interesting na- 
ture ; but, unhappily, on his reaching the banks of that 
stream the hand of death was upon him, an'd a few days 
afterward he ceased to exist. 

This volume, nevertheless, contains matter that it is 
hoped will afford both interest and amusement to the 
reader. Among the rest, his graphic description of the 
great battle between the " Namaquas " and the" Da- 
maras," the latter of whom he commanded in person, and 
in which he was so severely w r ounded as to be rendered 
a cripple during the remainder of his life. 

Then again, his account of the " Ovambo," a primi- 
tive tribe, bordering on the Portuguese settlement of 
Benguela, is well deserving of perusal. 

His remarks, also, on the South Africa Missionaries, 
whom no traveller had better opportunities of becoming 
intimately acquainted with than Andersson, will, I feel 
assured, interest not a few. 

The like may be said as to his observations on the 
so called "lung-sickness" which annually carries off so 
many animals, both wild and tame, in South Africa ; 
(this the rather, as he himself was not only possessed 
of vast herds of horned cattle, but was a great sufferer 
by the epidemic in question — having lost two thousand 



PREFACE. V 

head — and, in consequence, his remarks will carry due 
weight with them), for as this disorder may not im- 
probably bear some affinity to the " Rinderpest," which 
of late years has so ravaged England and other Euro- 
pean countries, it is very possible some useful hints, as 
to the proper treatment of the latter, may be gained 
from learning the remedies usually had recourse to for 
the " lung-sickness " in Damaraland and adjacent re- 
gions. 

The chapter on "Game Birds" of the country will 
also probably prove acceptable to the reader, of such, at 
least, as are either sportsmen or naturalists. Of other 
African birds I have not ventured to speak, for the rea- 
son, that Mr. John Henry Gurney has recently published 
an abridgment of Andersson's great projected work — 
the " Avi Fauna of South Africa " — under the title of 
" The Birds of Damaraland," to which valuable publi- 
cation I beg to refer the ornithologist for information 
respecting the rest of the feathered tribe. 

In conclusion, I would add that, among numerous 
other papers, Andersson left behind him " Notices of 
several of the Quadrupeds indigenous to Damaraland 
and neighboring countries." These " Notices " it was 
my intention, at first, to insert when opportunity offered 
in present work ; but on reflection it struck me that such 
constant references to matters relating to Natural His- 
tory would greatly have tended to distract the attention 
of the reader from the Narrative itself, and I have there- 



VI PREFACE. 

fore thought it best — with the exception of a single 
chapter on the Leopard and its congeners — to exclude 
them (the " Notices ") altogether; though not without 
hopes, at some future time, of submitting them to the 
public. 

THE EDITOR. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 



The explorer transformed into the proprietor of a large trading estab- 
lishment — Important journey — Wilhelm Zwartbooi — David Christian 
— Alarm caused by lung-disease in cattle — Disputed right of way — 
Damaraland traders — Stopped on our journey by Namaquas — Cour- 
age and determination of my wife — Cattle-lifting — Pursuit of the 
robbers — Caught in a trap — F. Green's coolness in danger — Insolent 
messages — Sale of my cattle I 

CHAPTER II. 

Jonker Afrikaner — Visit to David Christian — Arrogant conduct of a 
Hottentot — Ruffianly attack — Fatal error committed by my op- 
ponent — Tragical incident — In the presence of death — My wife's 
courage — Reputation of the author in Africa — Daniel Cloete — 
Inquiry into the death of my Hottentot assailant — Decision — Return 
to Otjimbingue 14 

CHAPTER III. 

Game birds of South Africa — The Kori bustard — Rufous-crested bustard — 
Rupell's bustard — Cape Knorhaan bustard — Cape guinea-fowls — ■ 
Great travellers — The chasse — Swainson's Francolin — Double- 
banded sand-grouse — Variegated sand-grouse — Harlequin quail — 
Little quail — Painted snipe — Common snipe — Jack snipe and 
woodcock 28 

CHAPTER IV. 

Vultures — Power of scenting their prey at a distance — Sir Samuel 
Baker's theory — Extraordinary field of vision — Waterton's theory — 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

Andersson's theory — The Marabou stork — The ostrich — New spe- 
cies — Chase of ostriches by Namaquas — Pursuit of ostriches on 
horseback — Hottentot expedient for carrying off ostrich eggs. ... 47 

CHAPTER V. 

Harassing period of my life — Kamaherero and his tribe — Power of the 
Namaquas — Wretched condition of the enslaved tribe — Rising of 
the Damaras — Visit of Philippus, son of a Damara chief — Upright 
conduct of the Damaras^ — Rumors — Treachery of the Namaquas — 
Alarm at Otjimbingue — Battle and victory of the Damaras — Death 
of Rev. Mr. Kleinschmidt 60 

CHAPTER VI. 

Flight of the Namaquas — Alarming rumors — Frederick Green — Plan to 
surprise the Hottentot head-quarters — A treacherous European — 
Spoil taken from the Namaquas — Return of the victors to Otjim- 
bingue — Thrown into arrears — Attack of ophthalmia — Dangerous 
trust — Sad calamity — The cry of vengeance — Victoria Falls 74 

CHAPTER VII. 

An Irish Munchausen — Rehoboth — Preparations for our expedition 
against the Namaquas — Wilhelm Zwartbooi — Conflicting accounts 
of the position of the enemy — Last acts before the fight — A disap- 
pointment — Severe example — Daring act committed by Hotten- 
tots — Successful flank movement — Severely wounded — Precarious 
position 87 



CHAPTER VIII. 

After the battle. — Immense capture of sheep and cattle — Folly and inca- 
pacity of the Damaras — The Rehobothians — Rev. Mr. Kleinschmidt 
— Arrival at Barmen missionary station — Rev. Mr. Hahn — Suffer- 
ings from my wound — Rev. Mr. Kleinschmidt's change of station — 
The Rehobothians attacked by the Namaquas — Sufferings of the 
unfortunate tribe 106 



CONTENTS. IX 



CHAPTER IX. 



Seventy of my wound — Arrival of my wife — Long and painful illness at 
Otjimbingue — Study of ornithology — Relations with Baines — Dis- 
covery of a new species of falcon — Desci-iption of Andersson's perm— 
Machserhampus Alcinus Other specimens — Difference of two 



species. 



118 



CHAPTER X. 



Proceed to Cape Town — Surgical advice — Cape Town Museum and 
Library — Mr. Layard — Avi-fauna of Damaraland — Axel Ericson — 
Accumulation of misfortunes — Propose to return to Damaraland — 
Return to Otjimbingue — Wild and desolate aspect of the country — 
The Welwitchia , 127 

CHAPTER XL 

Defeat of Hottentots — Fall of a lawless marauder — Letter to the editor 
of the " Cape Town Mail and Advertiser" — Escape from shipwreck — 
Samuel, the Freebooter — Mr. Green's advance to the Cunene — Re- 
newed disturbances — Great loss of produce — A new way to pay old 
debts — Letter to Jan Jonker — Jacobus Boyce 136 

CHAPTER XII. 

Scarcity of wild beasts near Otjimbingue — The leopard — Its resorts and 
food — Manner of surprising its prey — Wonderful bound — Accident 
to Axel — African boer — Out of the frying-pan into the fire — Anders- 
son's adventure — Temerity of the leopard — The chasse — Dogs — 
The chetah — How it hunts — The wild cat — Andersson's letter . .152 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Departure of elephant-hunters for Ondonga — Accident to Andersson— 
Departure for Ovampo Land — Arrival at Jacongava — Omapjee — 
Wild dogs and koodoo — Remarkable flowers — Huge snake killed — A 
gemsbok shot — Wagon stuck fast in the mud — Bushmen come to 
bivouac — Arrival in Ovampo Land — Escape of Andersson's people 
from Samuel 180 



X CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Chykongo — Appearance of the country — Description of the homestead — 
The chief's werft — The soil — Agriculture — Times of scarcity — Fruit 
trees — Minerals — The flora and fauna — Ichthyology — Domestic 
animals — The inhabitants — Their amusements — Religion and 
superstition — Attack on Mr. Hahn's party 204 

CHAPTER XV. 

Lung-sickness — Symptoms of the disease — Inoculation said to be a pre- 
ventive — The virus : — Inoculation not always effective — Cure of the 
disease — Periods at which horses are liable to be attacked — Flesh 
of infected cattle — Refutation of Dr. Livingstone — Origin of the dis- 
ease unknown 226 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Ovampoland — Missionary labor — Rev. Mr. Hahn's reception — Prospects 
of success — Difficulties to contend with — Civilization and Evangel- 
ization — Deceitfulness of the native character — Labors of the mis- 
sionary — Enthusiasm in Germany 236 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Prevalence of sickness — Despatch of ivory to Otjimbingue — Departure of 
elephant hunters — Study of Portuguese — Attack of fever — Birds shot 
by natives with arrows — Goat carried off by a hyena — Ophthalmia — 
Samuel attacked by the Damaras — New species of stork — Visit to 
Chykongo — Dr. Livingstone — A thief caught in the act 249 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Start for the River Cunene — Arrival at Nauma's werft — Ugly women — 
Extraordinary spectacle — Author's life endangered — Singular hair- 
dressing — Hyenas troublesome — The iron mine — Typandeka's hos- 
pitality — A great misfortune — Reach the Cunene — Altercation with 
ferry-men 278 



CONTENTS. XI 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Premonitions of death — Axel Ericson's account of Andersson's last 
days — Extreme sufferings — Death of the traveller — Notice of his 
career and death in the " Cape Town Mail " — General regret in 
Sweden — Recognition of his merits as a Discoverer — In Me- 
moriam 308 



NOTES OF TRAVEL, 



CHAPTER I. 



The explorer transformed into the proprietor of a large trading estab- 
lishment — Important journey — Wilhelm Zwartbooi — David Christian 
— Alarm caused by lung-disease in cattle — Disputed right of way — 
Damaraland traders — Stopped on our journey by Namaquas — Cour- 
age and determination of my wife — Cattle-lifting — Pursuit of the 
robbers — Caught in a trap — F. Green's coolness in danger — Insolent 
messages — Sale of my cattle. 

WHEN I last appeared before the public in my 
narrative entitled " The River Okavango," I had 
become a complete invalid through many months of 
distressing illness, and consequently quite unfit for any 
serious exertions. The spirit for exploration and dis- 
covery, nevertheless, was far from extinguished in me, 
but the power to execute failed me, and I determined 
to await events quietly until such time that my health 
was restored. 

About this period the Walwich Bay Mining Com- 
pany, whose operations in this country I had at one 
time conducted, finding that they were carrying on an 
unprofitable business, determined to wind up their 
affairs, and to offer their large establishment for sale. 
They not unnaturally turned to me as a probable pur- 



2 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

chaser. It is true I had neither the inclination nor the 
means to work the mines, but it struck me that their 
head-quarters, Otjimbingue — a place so often mentioned 
in my former works — might be most advantageously 
turned to account as a trading station, being very cen- 
trally and conveniently situated for such a purpose. 
Moreover, the company possessed a large number of 
cattle, chiefly well-trained wagon-oxen, a most essen- 
tial item toward the success of such a venture as I 
contemplated. Finally, I thought this kind of life, 
which, while in a great measure sedentary, had a good 
deal of desultory activity attached to it, would suit me 
while recruiting my shattered constitution. But the 
risk was very great. In the first instance I was aware 
that Jonker Afrikaner looked upon the company's 
property with a covetous eye — in fact he had openly 
declared that they had no right to part with what he 
considered his own ! And I am sorry to say he was 
backed in this unrighteous assertion by more than one 
European, who thus thought to serve their own ends. 
Secondly, that most fearful scourge, the " lung-sick- 
ness " (of which more hereafter), had just made its ap- 
pearance in Damaraland, and was playing sad havoc 
among the live stock of the inhabitants. But not- 
withstanding all these serious drawbacks, I began to 
entertain the. project; and quickly making my calcula- 
tions, I came to the conclusion that, even under very 
unfavorable circumstances, I could hardly fall to do 
well. Accordingly I closed with the company's offer, 
and thus somewhat unexpectedly found myself the pro- 
prietor of a large establishment — in short, I, who had 
recently been an exp^rer, became converted into a 



RIGHT OF ROAD DISPUTED. 3 

merchant. The step proved ultimately my ruin, 
though brought about in a way little anticipated, and 
without any particular fault on my part ; but I will not 
anticipate. Nor will I try the reader's patience by 
asking him to follow me through all the vicissitudes of 
a trader's experience in a barbarous country, but I will 
select such episodes of my life at this period as I think 
may fairly challenge the interest and attention of an 
indulgent public. 

I had been settled about a year, not unprofitably, 
at Otjimbingue, when I found it necessary to try to 
dispose of some of the live stock 'acquired by my origi- 
nal purchase, as well as that afterward obtained in 
exchange. Unfortunately the " lung-sickness " had by 
this time acquired a wonderful repute among the tribes 
bordering on Damaraland to the south, which had as 
yet been spared this curse ; and it was currently be- 
lieved that no person coming from my part of Africa 
would be permitted to pass through their territories 
with live stock, for fear of having their own also affected. 
However, as there had always been an acknowledged 
highway from time immemorial, and as the country 
was large enough to admit of a free passage to traders 
and travellers, without any particular danger or incon- 
venience to anyone concerned; and, above all, as the 
Europeans settled in Damaraland could not exist with- 
out a market for their product, which consisted almost 
solely of cattle and sheep, I felt it necessary to have 
the matter at once and forever decided ; and as I dared 
trust no one with this important mission, I determined 
to undertake the journey in person. 

At this time I was on a ve'v r - : endly footing — in 



4 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

fact had always been so — with our nearest neighbors to 
the southward, a tribe of Namaquas under the chief 
Wilhelm Zwartbooi. I anticipated consequently little 
or no opposition in this quarter, a view which proved 
correct ; for after due representations had been made 
to my friends, and I have very little doubt also through 
the kind interposition of my esteemed friend their ven- 
erable missionary, the late Reverend Henry Klein- 
schmidt, permission to pass through their country was 
granted with promptitude and consideration. The real 
obstacle was a long way ahead of us, and lay princi- 
pally with the people under the chief, David Christian, 
whose head-quarters were Bethany — a long-established 
missionary post. 

My arrangements for the journey being completed, 
I set out with a fine troop of cattle and sheep, and pro- 
ceeded for a considerable distance without any interfer- 
ence or molestation. At last, having passed the boun- 
daries of my friends, we met with other people, who, 
though civil enough in their way, one and all gave us 
to understand that much further progress was Out of 
the question, and advised us strongly to retrace our 
steps. Several traders, with cattle, on the path which 
we were pursuing, having heard an exaggerated account 
of the state of health of our own herds, fled precipi- 
tately, thus making matters worse for us. When still 
several days' journey distant from the obnoxious chief, 
I determined to proceed ahead of my party, with a 
view of having our fears confirmed, or our hopes 
verified. I had apparently nothing to dread for my 
own cattle ; for though I certainly had had several cases 
of death occasioned by " lung-sickness," all symptoms of 



ATTACKED BY DAVID CHRISTIAN. 5 

this disease had long since disappeared. But even 
had my cattle continued affected, I did not think that 
the chief could have any right to stop my progress on 
a road, the use of which was sanctioned by immemo- 
rial custom. 

I met the chief, and after I told him my story, per- 
mission to proceed was readily granted to me. I re- 
turned to my people in good spirits, thinking that all 
our difficulties were now happily at an end, but I had 
sadly reckoned without my host, as the sequel will 
shortly prove. In my company were several other 
traders from Damaraland, and of course in the same 
situation as myself, who usually journeyed a little 
ahead of me. One day, it seems, a large party of Na- 
maquas on horseback, headed by David Christian in per- 
son, made their appearance, and peremptorily forbade 
their further progress ; they even went so far as to 
order some cattle to be slaughtered for their inspec- 
tion. This proved nothing against my fellow-travellers, 
but a good feast to our foes — and probably it was 
meant to be so from the first ; but the enemy had evi- 
dently predetermined to stop us. When my turn came, 
I at first tried every argument that reason could sug- 
gest, and finding these unavailing, I told the chief 
plainly that nothing but his superior force should stop 
me. " Indeed," I fearlessly added, " were I but strong 
enough, I would try a conclusion with you that might 
prove unpalatable enough ; " at the same time laying 
my hand firmly on the handle of my revolver. The 
chief became exceedingly fierce and indignant at my 
resolute conduct, but Tquietly assured him that to get 
into a passion with me was useless, as I did not care 



6 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

one straw for him and his myrmidons, and that they 
failed utterly to intimidate me. Of course, should he 
persist in refusing me a passage, circumstanced as I 
was, there was no alternative but to send back my cat- 
tle; but as for myself, I would go forward, and return 
next season strong enough, I hoped, to defy him and 
any force that he could oppose to me. At this his 
wrath knew apparently no bounds ; he swore, he stamped, 
he suddenly rose from his seat, and as suddenly re- 
seated himself, trembling all the while like an aspen 
leaf with anger and excitement. But under all this 
frothy outburst of passion and assumed indignation, it 
was easy to see that my firm behavior had considerably 
intimidated him ; for he knew enough of me to feel 
certain that I would carry my threats into execution 
if within the range of possibilities. Indeed, he hon- 
estly acknowledged to poor Jonathan (of whom more 
presently) that he was in a " funk." " I thought at 
one time," he said, " that Mr. Andersson would have 
shot me ! " Thus ended our last inauspicious interview. 
I reached the Cape in safety, after a long and ha- 
rassing journey, and lost no time in maturing my plans. 
I had fully made up mind to fight it out with the ob- 
noxious chief, if necessary, and took measures accord- 
ingly. Among other things, I supplied myself with 
two small but handsome and serviceable brass field- 
pieces — not so much for the sake of the execution I 
meant to do with them, as for the moral effect they 
were likely to produce on a semi-barbarous people, who 
had probably an exaggerated opinion of cannon. Some 
of my friends, it is true, thought this a most imprudent 
step, as it might tend to make the natives more obsti- 



OFFER OF ESCORT. 7 

nate and unaccommodating ; but I had fully calculated 
all the consequences, and the result justified the 
measure. 

On my return to Damaraland, I found a number 
of my hunting friends and acquaintances congregated 
at Otjimbingue, partly awaiting my own return, and 
partly recruiting themselves for fresh exertions against 
the elephants. On hearing of my determination to 
force my way to the colony through the Namaquas, 
they came forward in a body to offer me their escort, 
deeming my own servants much too small a party for 
undertaking so dangerous an enterprise. I was some- 
what reluctant to avail myself of their valuable services, 
inasmuch as their absence from their usual occupations 
would, in all probability, involve the loss of a whole 
season — to most of them an object of the utmost 
importance. At the same time, they were entirely 
dependent on me for their necessary supplies and crea- 
ture comforts, and were fully aware that, unless I could 
bring my cattle speedily and safely to a market, they 
themselves would stand no chance of having their 
wants provided for. Their offer of assistance, there- 
fore, though certainly most kind and considerate, was 
not altogether disinterested, and after due considera- 
tion I accepted their proffered help. But even with 
this opportune, and altogether unexpected, addition to 
my party, we mustered hardly twenty really serviceable 
guns, a mere cipher as compared with the many hun- 
dreds that were likely to be raised against us, should it 
be found necessary to have recourse to force, in order 
to open up the disputed passage. But I correctly esti- 
mated my own strength, and that of my apparently 



8 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

formidable enemy. Thus I felt certain that, when 
once fairly en route, many-tongued rumor would vastly 
exaggerate our real strength ; the names of some of my 
party were in themselves a host ; and lastly, not the 
least, I felt sure that my noisy brass friends could not 
fail to inspire a certain respect, if not awe — in short I 
felt pretty sure of success. 

Everything being finally settled for our adventurous 
journey, we set out in high spirits. Each man was 
provided with a double-barrelled gun or rifle, a Colt's 
revolver, a pistol, and a stout hunting-knife. Most of 
the party had adopted a kind of uniform — scarlet and 
drab — and being all pretty well mounted, my escort 
made both a picturesque and martial appearance. 

Apprehending considerable trouble and danger, I 
had decided on leaving my wife and child — then a mere 
infant — behind me at Otjimbingue ; but my wife hav- 
ing accompanied me a few days' journey on the way, 
we found each other's society so pleasant that, as the 
time for leave-taking approached, my brave little help- 
mate was determined to share with me every danger 
and trial. Having hastily consulted my companions 
upon the advisability of the step, she was allowed to 
have her own way, and we were thus spared a painful 
and long separation. The result justified our decision, 
and thus I had the inestimable boon of the company 
of my family during this long, dangerous, and harass- 
ing journey, extending, as it did, over a distance of 
upward of a thousand miles, through regions the most 
bleak and barren. 

As on a former occasion, all went on smoothly for 
some days, only one incident occurring worthy of being 



CATTLE CARRIED OFF BY THE TOPNAARS. 9 

here recorded. We had just arrived at a Mr. S 's 

house (the last European habitation we were likely to 
meet with for some months to come), and were enjoy- 
ing ourselves so far as liberty, good cheer, fine weather, 
and happy spirits would allow, having in fact selected 
for our motto "Sufficient for the day is the evil there- 
of." In the midst of our rejoicings, the astounding 
news reached us that a considerable number of cattle 
belonging to our hospitable host had been carried off 
by a set of rascals living at no great distance, and who 
belonged to a tribe of Hottentots called Topnaars, the 
fellows in question acknowledging Jonker Afrikaner as 
their chief; but only nominally, for they did very much 
as they pleased, laying friend and foe alike under occa- 
sional contribution. In fact the tribe was enlarged 
and strengthened by a conglomeration of the most 
villainous and wretched scoundrels in the country. 
Any man outlawed from his own tribe was sure to meet 
with a hearty welcome from the Topnaars, who with 
their lawless associates were truly a savage crew. 

Neither deeming it safe to absent myself from my 
own property and people, nor indeed essential to the 
success of the enterprise, I left it to my escort to pur- 
sue, and, if possible, recapture the lost cattle. But the 
undertaking proved a far more serious one than was at 
first anticipated, and might have resulted in the most 
serious consequences to myself and chattels, had there 
been less presence of mind and pluck among my brave 
volunteers. 

The stolen stock was duly traced, but on account 
of the rocky and embarrassing nature of the ground 
traversed by the thieves, it was only late on the second 



10 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

day after the departure of my friends that they found 
themselves approaching the place to which the booty 
had been conveyed. They were quietly following on 
the spoor, when, suddenly turning the angle of a rock 
in an intricate passage along which they had been for 
some time unsuspiciously winding their way, they found 
themselves in full view of a wretched village, and were 
at the same moment challenged by at least fifty rascals 
completely hidden from view. Only a few women and 
children were visible about the huts, but, on looking 
toward the surrounding rocks whence the challenge 
had proceeded, they found them literally bristling with 
fire-arms, while they were unable to distinguish the 
form even of one of those in whose hands they were. 
On -finding themselves thus fearfully entrapped — for 
even their retreat was cut off — my friends honestly con- 
fessed that they experienced a feeling of horror, and 
had it been practicable would probably have beat a 
precipitate retreat ; but though they might have done 
so with honor, the muzzles of guns threateningly 
pointed at them from every nook and corner prevented 
them from attempting it with safety. The hesitation 
and trepidation, however, were only momentary, for 
finding escape impossible, the leader of the devoted 
little band, my brave friend F. Green, ordered his fol- 
lowers to dismount, and pulling out his pipe, coolly 
proceeded to fill and light it. This presence of mind 
in the face of imminent danger had the desired effect, 
and in a few minutes every volunteer was sending forth 
volumes of smoke from his clay bowl, thus hiding the 
temporary dismay by which they had been struck, and 
utterly dumbfounding the enemy by their temerity. 



COURAGE AND DETERMINATION. II 

Repeating their challenge not to proceed, the villains 
insolently demanded the cause of the presence of the 
strangers. This was explained, and intimation was at 
the same time conveyed that they were determined not 
to stir from the spot until the stolen cattle were given 
up. A terrible hubbub then ensued, and a few of the 
men appeared in view, brandishing their arms threaten- 
ingly and gesticulating wildly; but the greater number 
of their guns remained pointed toward them, and in 
unpleasantly close proximity. The moments that fol- 
lowed were intensely exciting, my friends not knowing 
but that every second might be their last on earth ; 
they were so utterly helpless, a single false movement 
and they would inevitably have been ushered into 
eternity. Whatever courage they might have possessed, 
and there was no lack of that manly quality, availed 
them nothing, as their enemies remained concealed 
from view during the whole of a somewhat protracted 
parley. But to make a long story short, after endless 
questions, accompanied with menacing gesticulations 
and angry threats, the foe gave in, and not only restored 
the cattle they had purloined, but entertained their 
unwelcome visitors hospitably ! In journeying home- 
ward in safety, with the recovered stock, there was 
not one among my escort who did not feel sincerely 
thankful for his narrow escape from destruction, at 
one time so imminent. 

After this adventure nothing occurred for some 
time to disturb our peace, except when we encountered 
any of the friendly or neutral Namaquas, who jeered us 
on account of our determination to proceed, assuring 
us that David Christian with the whole of his tribe was 



12 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

waiting to dispute our passage at a certain intricate 
and dangerous point of the road. At last we actually 
met messengers sent by the chief in question to forbid 
peremptorily our further progress. We received from 
time to time several of these haughty and msolent 
messages, to all of which we quietly answered, " We 
are friendly disposed, and only require a road for our 
cattle now and henceforth, grant our reasonable demand 
and you will insure our gratitude," all the while stead- 
ily pursuing our course. At last a neutral chief, one 
of some note, came as ambassador to us on behalf of 
himself and his brother chief, through whose territories 
we desired to pass. Fortunately he was not only 
friendly disposed toward us and our cause, but a sen- 
sible mam who, after listening to our arguments, sud- 
denly declared that he had been authorized by David 
Christian to grant our request in full should he deem 
it reasonable, and he would do so. I need not say that 
this happy termination of our troubles was hailed with 
the utmost satisfaction and joy by every one of my party, 
more particularly as it was in a great measure unex- 
pected. It was certainly more favorable than any of us 
had dared to anticipate. 

I have been thus minute in the particulars of my 
life at this period, not out of a vain bravado, I hope, 
but as an encouragement to future travellers. My own 
experience proves that a person similarly situated need 
never despair, and that, with judicious determination, 
great ends may be accomplished with very small 
means. It would have been my utter ruin had the 
natives been able to stop my progress ; but, as it was, 
I was the means of obtaining immense benefits for all 



A DIFFICULTY SURMOUNTED. 1 3 

those who were interested in my expedition, since not 
only was the road opened on the present occasion, but 
every one obtained full liberty to use it for the future as 
he thought fit. 

Shortly after this happy termination of our troubles, 
we said farewell to our gallant escort who were now 
able to return to their usual occupation, having still the 
best part of the season left for hunting the elephant. 
I proceeded to the south, and they turned to the north. 
How they fared, I may perhaps tell in a future chapter, 
as for myself and my loving and courageous wife, we 
got over the rest of the journey in safety. On my 
arrival at the Cape, not reached without great trouble 
and hardship, I made a famous sale of my cattle, win- 
ning golden opinions from all for my beef and mutton 



CHAPTER II. 

Jonker Afrikaner — Visit to David Christian — Arrogant conduct of a 
Hottentot — Ruffianly attack — Fatal error committed by my op- 
ponent — Tragical incident — In the presence of death — My wife's 
courage — Reputation of the author in Africa — Daniel Cloete — 
Inquiry into the death of my Hottentot assailant — Decision — Return 
to Otjimbingue. 

SHORTLY after my return to my residence in Da- 
maraland, I resolved upon paying a visit to the 
then paramount 'chief of the country. Jonker Afrikaner 
had now been dead some time, and it was impossible 
to deny that his death was a misfortune to the country 
at large ; for though he had slain and plundered on a 
large scale, he possessed certain qualities that made 
him at least feared both by friend and foe. He had been 
succeeded in the chieftainship by his eldest son, Chris- 
tian, a weak, easy man, not badly disposed, but utterly 
unfit for his high, important, and difficult station. It 
was this man I proposed to visit, for I knew he both 
wished and expected to see me. I was also desirous 
of showing my wife a little more of the country, and no 
season could have been more propitious, the weather 
being moderately warm, and the earth revelling in her 
richest and most profuse spring dress, as the season 
had been very favorable for the vegetation. 

We set out, and had accomplished rather more than 
one half of the journey, when we reached the small 
werft of a Hottentot distinguished for his insolence, 



A RASCALLY HOTTENTOT. I 5 

brutality, and lawlessness. Christian Afrikaner was his 
chief, but in the conversation, or rather quarrel, that 
took place between us, he laughed at the idea of this 
being the case, maintaining that he himself was the 
captain, and Christian only his servant ! — monstrous 
arrogance ! On several occasions he had levied black- 
mail on travellers and traders, even ill-treating them 
personally. Nevertheless, I never dreamt of his daring 
to interfere with me, more particularly as I was on a 
visit to the chief. But it proved otherwise, for we had 
hardly " out-spanned " and kindled a fire preparatory 
to our frugal meal, when the individual in question, a 
big, surly fellow, with the visage of a scoundrel, made 
his appearance. 

On seeing me he grunted forth a few words — they 
might have meant a curse for aught we knew, then lean- 
ing forward against his long stick, so indispensable to 
every Hottentot of consideration, he eyed me for awhile 
with lowering looks, and suddenly demanded my name, 
which in fact he knew as well as I did myself, having 
learned it from his numerous- attendants. 

" Oh," I replied, "my name? There can be no 
occasion to give you that, since I must be well known 
to you by report, if not by sight. I just heard one of 
your people repeat it to you." 

" Yes, but I want your name." 

" Very well, Andersson then it is." 

" Oh ! Andersson, Andersson is it ? The savage 
Andersson. Ah, we shall see to-day who is master, 
you or I." 

This was most provoking language, but I rejoined 
good-humoredly that I could have no wish to be his 



16 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

master ; and as for him ever becoming mine, I thought 
it a most unlikely event. He next demanded our 
coffee-kettle, dresses for his women, the wagon-chests, 
etc., indeed I verily believe everything he saw, or could 
think of, whether I had it or not ! I began to feel a 
little riled, as a Yankee would say, at the fellow's 
impertinence, no native having ever dared to go thus 
far; and if, unhappily, any of them had forgotten what 
was due to me, they had always received suitable 
chastisement. It was evident that the scoundrel had 
made up his mind beforehand to be troublesome, per- 
haps violent, reckoning no doubt, upon his former suc- 
cesses in that line ; for he now burst forth in a torrent 
of abuse of the most scurrilous kind, and certainly 
utterly uncalled for, as this, to the best of my belief, was 
the very first time that we had met, and though I had 
frequently heard of his villainy, I had never injured him 
either in deed or word. 

Seating myself on the pole of the wagon, I folded 
my arms, quietly allowing the fellow to exhaust, if 
possible, his vocabulary of scurrilous language, which 
was translated to me word for word ; I, merely remark- 
ing in a undertone to my wife, " I will have that fellow 
on his knees if he continues much longer his unwar- 
rantable conduct." Finding me determinedly silent, 
he came close up to me, shaking his clenched fist in 
my teeth, and hissing forth between his teeth : 

" You cannot pass on your way, span in and go back 
the way you came," at the same time pointing toward 
Otjimbingue, thus trying to give further effect to his 
words. It was now high time to undeceive the brutal 



DEATH OF A SCOUNDREL. 1 7 

scoundrel, and I sprang to my feet, and thus slowly 
addressed him : 

" Look here. I have, out of respect to your chief, 
borne with your insolence thus far. I am, as I have 
already told you, on my way to visit him, and unless 
he should order me to go back, neither you nor any 
one else shall turn me from my purpose, as long as 
there is breath in my body ; if you attempt to stop me, 
be the consequences on your own head." Suiting my 
action to my words, I called for the trek-oxen to be 
caught and yoked. While my boys carried out my 
orders, I went a few paces on the other side of the 
wagon to fetch my horse. While I was stooping to 
undo the knee-halter, with which he was secured, I saw 
my enemy deliberately walk up to where my saddle 
and gun were lying on the ground, and possess himself 
of the bridle. This was a climax to his insolence which 
I could not endure ; but still keeping my temper, I 
went quietly up to the fellow and said : " Come, give 
me that bridle," at the same time laying my hand on 
his shoulder, while with the left I seized the reins. To 
avoid losing his hold, he stepped rather suddenly 
back, and coming in violent contact with our cooking 
utensils, he rolled over on his back. But unwieldy as 
his carcass appeared to be, he was on his legs in a mo- 
ment, striking me at the same time a fearful blow in 
the face just about my eyes, with some hard and angu- 
lar substance, whether it was the bit of the bridle, or a 
stone, I never knew. Be that as it may, I felt my face 
suffused with blood, and. I was half-stunned with the 
violence of the blow. Almost simultaneously I was 
laid hold of by three or four sturdy ruffians, his servants 



1 8 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

and backers no doubt in many a similar outrageous 
affray ; but having always possessed an extremely agile 
and somewhat muscular though slight frame, and hav- 
ing a hazy notion that I was in a somewhat desperate 
situation, I, with a violent and sudden effort, shook off 
both drowsiness and assailants, flinging the latter to 
some distance, and retreated precipitately toward my 
gun. My enemy perceived in a moment his fatal 
error, and now realized fully the nature of the man he 
had to deal with, and whom he had so grossly provoked 
and so unjustly assaulted. He again rushed upon me 
wildly, his face contorted frightfully with passion, and 
with such a fiend-like expression in his eyes as I had 
never seen before. But quick as he was, he was too 
late to prevent me from accomplishing the object I had 
in view. I seized the gun, and in fewer moments than 
it would take "to describe the horrible scene, the unfor- 
tunate man lay a corpse at my feet, never more to dis- 
turb or annoy inoffensive travellers. 

The scene that now ensued baffles all description ; 
the women and children screamed and gesticulated 
wildly, some of the men rushed to arms, while others 
ran off furiously in various directions, evidently with 
the intention of circulating the news and summoning 
further aid. 

It has been my lot in life to witness many an appall- 
ing sight, and to find myself involved in many a trying 
situation, but none more trying than this; for had I 
not a helpless wife and infant to care for as well as my- 
self? It was dreadful ; and the mere narration of the 
incident, after the lapse of many years, still excites my 
deepest feelings. My case now appeared utterly hope- 



PERILOUS POSITION. 19 

less, for the instant they saw my enemy fall dead, my 
few native servants, mere boys as already said, fled 
precipitately, leaving me to my fate. Nevertheless, I 
did not lose my presence of mind for a moment, but 
shouting to my run-away people, entreated them to 
stop, not with a view or hope for personal protection, 
but to collect and attend to the dispersed trek-oxen. 
I also requested my wife, who was in the wagon with 
the child, to put my spare rifle in a convenient and 
accessible position, and then folding my arms, I faced 
the foe and boldly defied them to do their worst. The 
sight that then met my eyes was not calculated to re- 
assure me, or to give me any hope of escape from the 
trap into which I had fallen. My eyes fell on three 
men, in a kneeling posture within a distance of one 
hundred yards, taking each a deliberate aim at my 
exposed person, so deliberate, indeed, that in order to 
insure perfect accuracy in their aim, they were resting 
their guns against the ramrods stuck upright in the 
earth for that purpose. Expecting nothing short of 
instant death, I was now only anxious to shield my 
poor wife and offspring as much as possible from bodily 
harm, and accordingly just moved sufficiently on one 
side to allow the balls to pass them harmlessly should 
the villains confine their fire to me alone. At this 
moment I heard one of the Damara lads, who had 
returned to the vicinity at my earnest solicitations, call 
out, " Oh ! master, get behind the wagon, the Hotten- 
tots are about to fire on you." Though duly appre- 
ciating the poor fellow'^ anxiety for my safety, I of 
course did not leave my exposed situation, well know- 
ing that my only chance of safety lay in putting a bold 



20' NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

face on the matter, as retreat at that moment would 
have been a sure signal for the cowards to fire. Besides, 
how could I think of sheltering myself behind the 
wagon, which at that moment contained all that I held 
dearest on earth ? 

After enduring several minutes — to me an age — of 
the most intense mental anguish, for the muzzles of the 
guns were constantly pointed at my breast. I saw, to 
my astonishment and inexpressible relief, the fellows 
rise from- their threatening attitudes and make off! 
Of course I did not flatter myself that the danger was 
over, but it gave me breathing time ; and now that the 
enemy was out of sight, I was enabled to recall my 
panic-stricken servants, and to collect the scattered 
trek-cattle, etc., which were now inspanned, with the 
utmost despatch, and we proceeded on the journey. 

I cannot here refrain from paying a fitting tribute 
of thanks and praise to my dear wife, who, during the 
whole of this trying scene never uttered one word of 
alarm, or in the slightest way interfered with my move- 
ments. Had it been otherwise, how easily might I 
have been unnerved ! She proved herself a true trav- 
eller's wife, and gained by her singularly calm and col- 
lected conduct a great deal of well-merited applause. 

I had now the alternative of proceeding on my jour- 
ney or retracing my steps — the latter of course being 
the most tempting, as the road was comparatively free 
of danger, while an onward movement would certainly 
entail on us fresh perils, if not utter destruction. 1 
chose notwithstanding to incur these rather than be 
branded with cowardice. Moreover, I felt convinced 
that a retrograde movement would have been con- 



EXCULPATION. 21 

strued into a sign of guilt, which no after-conduct of 
mine could rectify or obliterate. After a hurried con- 
sultation with my heroic wife, who saw the matter in 
the same light as myself, I resolved on prosecuting our 
journey, with the intention of boldly laying my case 
before the chief whose subject I had slain, but who had 
given me such ample cause for the deed. 

There will be those of my readers, I fear, who will 
censure me for my proceedings, and brand the act as 
one of unnecessary precipitation ; but difficult as it may 
appear to exculpate myself, it would be somewhat unfair 
to judge my conduct on this occasion by the ordinary 
standard of right or wrong — only those who have been 
in a similar position can form a fair judgment on my 
conduct. Had I been opposed to a single foe, or even 
had my opponents been three or four men only, I might 
have been spared the dreadful alternative ; but the odds 
against me were at least ten to one, an overwhelming 
majority it must be confessed. In a country utterly 
devoid of all laws, the only chance of safety to the poor 
traveller lies in his own power of defence, and in the 
fear with which he is able to inspire his foes. When a 
■ savage semi-civilized man ceases to fear, he becomes 
overbearing and insolent, from which it is but one step 
to personal violence, and probably ultimate destruction. 
At this period, not one of the numerous Europeans 
gaining their living, either by trade or hunting, had 
escaped insults and deadly threats, nay, mostly all had 
been robbed, flogged, and otherwise brutally ill-treated. 
Hitherto I had escaped 'personal violence, but I could 
hardly expect to remain forever unmolested among 
such a set of ruffians. The Namaquas, with a few 



22 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

exceptions, hated me, and simply for possessing the 
very qualities they themselves were destitute of, viz., 
courage, and a true estimate of the sanctity of a man's 
word. The terms the " proud," the " devil " — the lat- 
ter equivocal appellation being a compliment to my 
supposed hardihood in penetrating to distant and little 
known, or altogether unknown regions — were indiffer- 
ently applied to me. Knowing therefore that loss of 
prestige would soon be followed by loss of property, 
perhaps of life itself, I had made a vow to kill the first 
savage who attempted to lay violent hands on my per- 
son, and I had now fulfilled it. Far be it from me, 
however, to glory in the deed — on the contrary, I shall 
always regret having shed human blood ; but it was an 
act of necessity, and I feel I acted for the best. 

But to return to my story. I had but too justly 
estimated the precariousness of our situation. As soon 
as everything was ready, I ordered the wagon to pro- 
ceed, following at a short distance on horseback, the 
post of danger, I conceived, in this instance. Scarcely 
had we got a mile or two on our way, before I saw a 
Namaqua — an old friend and acquaintance — running up 
to us in breathless haste, exclaiming in Dutch : " Oh, 
Mr. Andersson, for God's sake hurry on to Barmen," 
(the nearest missionary station), " for the sons of the 
man you have killed are coming on with a strong party 
to murder you. I have come away from them, at the 
risk of my life, to warn you." Poor fellow, he was hardly 
able to articulate for fear and trepidation, and evidently 
felt a most sincere anxiety for my safety, and I was 
much touched with the interest he evinced on my be- 
half. Bidding him a hurried farewell, and telling him 



INTENTION OF THE SAVAGES. 23 

to be of good cheer — how my heart belied the encour- 
agement ! — we steadily pursued our journey, but with- 
out any unseemly hurry, which in fact would not have 
availed us, as ere long we must have been overtaken 
by our relentless foe. Scarcely had my kind-hearted 
well-wisher departed, when the report of a gun was 
heard, and at the same time a ball whistled unpleas- 
antly near us. But there was nothing for us to do but 
quietly to await the deadly encounter, which I no longer 
doubted would take place ere many minutes had elapsed. 
Nothing more, however, was seen or heard until we 
arrived at a narrow part of the road, where we had the 
misfortune to get our wagon almost helplessly jammed 
in mud against half-buried focks. Night was coming 
on, and with it a drizzling rain — a cheerless and gloomy 
prospect with a revengeful foe at our backs. At this 
moment at least fifty armed men came up to us, but 
instead of massacring us on the spot, they merely 
stopped to glare and scowl at us for a few minutes, and 
then passed on. This reprieve, however, had in nowise 
diminished the danger ; it merely changed our relative 
positions, our savage foes were now in front of us, in- 
. stead of behind, and likely to increase in numbers at 
every step they made in advance. 

Night had now closed in, and with it the rain in- 
creased, so that ere long our garments were saturated. 
I had made up my mind to stay with the wagon and 
defend it and myself to the last. Just then, however, 
we were joined by Daniel Coete, the catechist at Bar- 
men, who told us he had been informed by the rascals 
of our forlorn condition, and of their determination to 
put me to death, asking him at the same time to turn 



24 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

back with them, and see the cruel deed executed. But 
happily he possessed some influence with them, partly 
through his inoffensive conduct, and partly because he 
was himself a half Namaqua by birth, and at his earnest 
entreaties, therefore, they agreed to bring their com- 
plaint before the chief, and to do nothing rashly of their 
own accord. Thus, under God, this good man was 
probably the means of saving our lives — mine at least. 
That night we slept under Daniel's hospitable roof, or 
rather rested, for it can hardly be supposed that I was 
able to sleep after a day- of such fearful peril and excite- 
ment, and with our fate still undecided. 

I no longer considered my life in immediate danger; 
for though now more than ever at the mercy of my 
enemies, I felt pretty certain that, if I could but see 
and speak to the chief personally, I should be able to 
clear myself satisfactorily. I knew, moreover, that the 
dead man was far from being liked by the tribe, whom 
his reckless, cruel, and lawless conduct had gone far to 
disgrace, and that, therefore, his death, in reality, would 
be regarded as a boon rather than a loss to them. Still 
he was a Namaqua, and I a white man ; more than 
enough to prejudice better-disposed people against me 
than those ruled by an Afrikaner, even though I had 
always been on a good understanding with him. 

That same night a messenger was despatched to the 
chief, informing him of the unlucky deed, and request- 
ing his presence forthwith with a view of investigating 
the case. The next day his eldest brother John arrived, 
he whom most people thought best suited for wielding 
the chieftain's staff. John Afrikaner possessed as much 
cunning, shrewdness, and determination as the deceased 



UNEXPECTED DELAY. 2$ 

father, and was more free in the expression of his feel- 
ings. Moreover, he was the only one of a numerous 
progeny that was at all liked by the enslaved and much 
abused Damaras ; for though he could not be said to 
treat them exactly well, yet he was the only one who 
would occasionally speak in their behalf, and sometimes 
reprove and restrain the unbridled license and cruelties 
of his fellows. He was rather liked also by the European 
settlers in this country. This same John, who was at 
this time my stanch friend, became afterward my mor- 
tal enemy, and, as the sequel will show, we managed 
to ruin each other in the deadly contest that not long 
after took place. 

John was instructed by the chief, his brother, to 
escort me and my party to his residence, Schmelen's 
Hope, of which place frequent mention has been made 
in my former narratives, and where I spent some very 
happy days at one period of my erratic life. 

I was in great hopes that the chief would at once 
have entered into the consideration of my situation, 
but though he received me very kindly and hospitably, 
he declared that nothing could be done with my case 
until his uncles and other important personages had 
arrived — a delay of some time, and quite unexpected, 
realizing the old saw, " hope deferred maketh the heart 
sick." But everything has an end, and thus it was with 
my anxiety. After a week, during which period numer- 
ous raads or consultations were held about me, I was 
told that I might return home in peace with an un- 
stained character ; that* it would perhaps have been 
better (?) if I had left it to them to punish the guilty 
man, than to take the law in my own hands, but as the 
2 



26 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

provocation had been very great they did not see that 
I was seriously to blame. The deceased, they acknowl- 
edged, had all his life been a villain, and consequently 
richly deserved his fate, and letters would be written 
forthwith to the neighboring tribes, explaining the mat- 
ter and exonerating me from blame. Thus ended this 
most tragical affair, which, so far from lowering me in 
the estimation of the Namaqua nation, not only pre- 
served my prestige among them, but was a warning to 
them not to interfere with me when peaceably occu- 
pied. It is true some were inspired with a deadly 
hatred toward me, particularly the relatives of the 
deceased ; and Christian Afrikaner confessed secretly as 
much. In fact, though he had succeeded in clearing 
my conduct with the tribe at large, he acknowledged 
he could not answer for my safety when once I left his 
werft. My friend, Daniel, indorsed the chiefs state- 
ment, and assured me that, though no open danger was 
any longer to be apprehended, I stood every chance 
of having my brains blown out from behind some rock 
or bush ! 

I must not here omit to mention that on the news 
of my unpleasant situation reaching Otjimbingue, sev 
eral of my acquaintances, who were living on the place 
at the time, hastened promptly to my assistance. I 
need not say that I felt much pleasure at this proof of 
sympathy, which was further heightened on my reach- 
ing home by finding nearly two hundred Damaras 
assembled to greet my safe return. Like a wise gen- 
eral, who leaves nothing to chance, I had, immediately 
on my arrival at Barmen, secretly sent orders to my 
manager at Otjimbingue to collect what men he could, 



PROOFS OF SYMPATHY. 27 

to be ready at a moment's warning to hasten to my 
assistance should judgment go against me, as it was of 
course impossible to trust implicitly to a favorable ver- 
dict from the Namaquas, who, I thought, in such a case 
would be sure to be more or less prejudiced against 
me. 



CHAPTER III. 

Game birds of South Africa — The Kori bustard — Rufous-crested bustard — 
Rupell's bustard — Cape Knorhaan bustard — Cape guinea-fowls — 
Great travellers — The chasse — Swainson's Francolin — Double- 
banded sand-grouse — Variegated sand-grouse — Harlequin quail — 
Little quail — Painted snipe — Common snipe — Jack snipe and 
woodcock. 

MY business left me but little time for either study, 
amusement, or recreation, my duties were so 
multifarious. It is true I kept a clerk and storekeeper, 
but I always made a point of checking all my books and 
accounts personally, and as business often called me 
away for weeks, nay, months, to distant posts and parts, 
I was not unfrequently greatly in arrears. Thus I 
remember once returning home with several months' 
extra work accumulated on my hands ; indeed, I had 
to work by nights to enable me to get through all. 
This was very harassing and fatiguing, the more so as 
for more than one-half of the year my labors were per- 
formed in a sweltering atmosphere. But whenever I 
could snatch a moment from my onerous duties it was 
to study the fauna of the country, which afforded me 
inexhaustible delight and amusement. 

In this chapter, however, I will only speak of the 
" game birds " found in the vicinity of Otjimbingue and 
elsewhere in Damaraland and the adjacent regions, 
feeling assured that some notice of them will prove 



THE KORI BUSTARD. 29 

more or less interesting, both to the sportsman and the 
naturalist. 

I will commence with the bustards, of which there 
are at least ten species, some of them beautifully plu- 
maged, indigenous to Southern Africa, and of these, 
five are natives of Damara and Great Namaqua Lands, 
viz. : The Kori bustard {Enpodotis Kori, Burch), usually 
called the " wilde pauw" or wild peacock, a name, how- 
ever, very wrongly applied ; the rather as it also attaches 
to the Balearica Negulorum, or southern-crowned crane. 

The splendid bustard in question is thus described 
by Doctor Burchell, from a fine specimen shot by his 
party : " The under part of the body was white, but the 
upper part was covered with fine lines of black on a 
light chestnut-colored ground. The tail and quill- 
feathers partook of the general coloring of the back. 
The shoulders were marked with large blotches of 
black and white, and the top of the head was black 
The feathers on the occiput were elongated into a crest. 
Those of the neck were also elongated, loose, narrow and 
pointed, and were of a whitish color, marked with numer- 
ous transverse lines of black. The irides were of a 
beautiful pellucid, changeable, silvery ferruginous color." 

Personally, I have never known this bird to exceed 
thirty pounds in weight, but I have been assured on 
good authority that, in parts of the free states and the 
Transvaal districts, individuals are sometimes killed 
very considerably larger.* Usually, however, it does 
not weigh more than fifteen or twenty pounds. The 

* A bird of this species was Shot by Mr. E. C. Buxton (a relative of 
mine, who recently visited the eastern coast of Africa), near the Labourbo 
mountains to the north of Natal, " weighing," he says, " near forty 
pounds ! " — Ed. 



3o 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 



spread of its wings is about eight feet four inches. Its 
flight is heavy, but nevertheless very rapid ; and at 
night, when changing its feeding-ground, it may be 
seen flying at a very great height. 

It is found throughout the year, in both Damara 
and Great Namaqualand ; and is common, indeed, as 
far as Ondonga, but is partially migratory. On ex- 
tended plains, its usual resorts, one often sees it strut- 
ting about with its head erect, and looking in size very 
much like a young ostrich. 

Its food consists of insects, berries, etc., and it is 
very partial to the sweet, gummy exudations of the 
low mimosa thorn, so abundant in Damaraland. The 
flesh is very tender and palatable, and, to my notion, 
about the best of all the South African game birds. 

In my time I have killed many of these noble birds. 
Not, however, with small shot, for even the highest 
numbers make little impression, owing to their bodies 
being so thickly protected by feathers, but with a rifle ; 
though even with that weapon, from their extreme shy- 
ness and difficulty of approach, it is is considered rather 
a dexterous exploit to bag one of them. 

The rufous-crested bustard (Eupodotis ruficrista^ 
Smith). 

Measurement of a Male.* 





In. 


Lines. 


Entire length . 


17 


9 


Length of folded wing . 
Length of tarsus 
Length of middle toe . 
Length of tail . 


10 
3 
1 
6 


8 
2 

9 
6 


Length of bill . 


1 


n 


* Naturalists vary somewhat 


as to the size of this bird. A 


ndersson, 



as seen above, gives its length as 17 inches 9 lines, breadth of wing 10 



RUFOUS-CRESTED BUSTARD. 3 1 

Top of head, neck, and upper part of chest, bluish- 
ash, darkest on the head ; ground color of black, deep 
rufous mottled with deep brown and black ; the pre- 
vailing markings on this part are of a rufous color > 
shaped, with a black centre — chin and sides of head, 
dirty white ; head crested ; crest, deep ferruginous, 
under parts all black. The irides are grayish-brown, 
with a whitish-yellow ring next the pupil — this ring is 
sometimes tinged with orange. 

I have met with this species pretty often in Great 
Namaqualand, and also, but less frequently, in South- 
ern Damaraland. It is usually found on open ground 
thinly-covered with dwarf bush.* 

Rupell's bustard (Eupodotis Riippellii, Wahl). 

In. Lines. 
Entire length about . . . . 20 o 

Bill from forehead . . . . 15 

inches 8 lines, and tail 6 inches 9 lines ; whereas «Dr. Smith, a very high 
authority, makes out its length to be 22 inches, wing 10% inches, and tail 
5% inches. Much, however, I should remark, depends on the locality 
where the bird from whom the measurement is taken was killed, as in 
certain districts of the eastern coast of Africa, for instance, the Kori bus- 
tard, and probably others of that species, attain by all accounts to a greater 
size than in Damaraland and adjacent parts. — Ed. 

* Mr. Buxton, whom I have just quoted, says of this bird, " It is com- 
mon over Bomba, that is between Transvaal and the coast, and arises 
from the ground like gray-hen. I could not believe it was anything else 
till I had it in my hand." 

And Ayres, " They appear to be solitary in their habits, lie close, and 
rise very silently, in the evening they utter a melancholy note ' goo, goo/ 
often and slowly repeated. When I first heard their note I thought it 
must be that of an owl." 

Dr. Smith further informs us that " Insects, small lizards, and scolo- 
pendra seem to constitute its favorite food." — Ed. 



32 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

In. Lines. 
Wing from carp joint . . . . 123 

Tail . . . . . . 60 

Tarsus ...... 2 9 

Mid. toe with claw .... i\4 O 



General color of the upper parts (including wings 
and tail), pale fulvous, tranversely vermiculated with 
numerous irregular and very narrrow black markings, 
the fulvous color intermixed with bluish-gray on the 
crown of the head and the back of the neck, the first 
four primaries brownish black, except at the base, 
where they are yellowish-white. 

A black streak running from the bill above the eye 
and down the nape of the neck, a narrower white streak 
above this, immediately over the eye. A white mark 
round the eye, cheeks resembling the crown of the 
head, ear coverts blackish, between the ear coverts and 
the black-marked stripe, a white band reaching in one 
direction to the back of the neck, and on the other to 
below the lower mandible. Skin, throat, and part of 
neck black, edged with white on the sides. Breast and 
belly dirty white, under tail-coverts pale brown, legs 
and toes pale yellow. Bill brown. 

The Cape Knorhaan bustard (Eupodotis Afra, 
Gmel.) is in length nineteen inches, the wing twelve 
inches, and the tail five inches. The top of head, back, 
part of wings and tail brown-black varying in intensity, 
and crossed with irregular streaks of rufous, paling into 
white. Stripe over the eyes reaching to the back of 
the head. Ear coverts, half collar on back of neck and 
part of wings pure white, the rest of the plumage deep 
black, legs bright yellow. The female differs from the 



CAPE KNORHAAN BUSTARD. 33 

male in having the whole of the head, neck, and breast 
of the same color and markings as the back. 

This species is plentiful in Great Namaqualand, and 
is not uncommon in some of the more open parts ot 
Southern Damaraland. I have also frequently met 
with it to the south of the Orange river, though at no 
great distance from it, but never to the north of that 
stream. It is partial to . slightly undulating ground 
abounding in bowlders and loose stones, and is usually 
found in pairs. When disturbed, it utters a succession 
of quick harsh notes, and crows not unlike a corn-crake 
on taking wing, but in a much lower strain. The eggs 
of this bustard are of a dark greenish drab, more or less 
profusely spotted and blotched with brown. 

The black and white-winged bustard (Eupodotis 
Afroides, Smith) resembles the preceding in every 
respect except the great distinguishing mark, viz., on 
opening the wings the quill-feathers of this species 
will be found with a large blaze of white on them, while 
those of the E. Afra are entirely black. 

Its size is "about that of an old cock grouse," its 
neck and legs long, like those of the ostrich, and its 
wings, as the name of the bird denotes, black and 
white. On taking wing the male becomes outrageously 
noisy, flying over the plain in circles, much after the 
manner of the green plover, or pewit, uttering the 
while a harsh grating cry, and at times rising vertically 
to a considerable height, often descending as abruptly. 
It is a great nuisance to the hunter, who is frequently 
done out of his quarry by its sudden and noisy appari- 
tion. Two nests of this bustard found by me at Oma- 
pigu, in January 1867, contained each two eggs. 



34 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

The wild guinea-fowl, commonly called by the col- 
onists the pintado (Numida comuta, Finsch and HartL), 
which probably derives its name from an allied species, 
having been first met with on the coast of Guinea, and 
which differs but little from the domestic race, though 
perhaps somewhat larger, was another of our game 
birds. It abounds both in Damara and Great Nama- 
qualand, as also from the Orange river in the south to 
Okavango in the north, and is common, moreover, in 
the Lake regions. 

It is a highly gregarious bird, especially during the 
dry season, when it is not unfrequently met with in 
flocks of several hundreds. On a certain occasion, 
indeed, I saw upward of a thousand collected in one 
spot, which was one of the prettiest sights I have had 
the good fortune to witness. 

These wonderful congregations usually occur in the 
immediate neighborhood of waters of small extent. It 
is quite evident that were such a mass of birds to make 
a simultaneous rush at the precious liquid, there would 
be much confusion, and comparatively few would be 
enabled to satisfy their thirst ; but on the contrary, 
they go to work most systematically, and it is very 
interesting to watch their proceedings. The first 
comers enter the well, or hole, as the case may be, and 
having rapidly and dexterously taken their fill, they 
make their exit in a different direction, if possible, from 
that by which they came. In the meantime the out- 
siders gradually and surely approach, and the ring is 
thus narrowed by a steady progressive movement of 
the whole. A batch of fresh comers never attempt to 
force their way among those which are present, but 



WILD GUINEA-FOWL. 35 

remain quietly on the outside of the ring until it is 
their turn. 

These birds are great travellers, often going over 
fifteen or twenty miles in the course of the day, but 
always returning, if possible, to the water at night ; so 
that by judiciously dogging their steps, the thirsty trav- 
eller may often find the desired pool ; though implicit 
reliance should never be placed on this mode of obtain- 
ing water. They usually rest for awhile about noon 
under some mimosa trees, resuming the journey when 
the greatest heat is over. 

A flock of guinea-fowl is in general discovered by 
their sharp, discordant, and metallic cries, something 
like a rapid succession of blows struck upon iron. They 
have many enemies, and seek security at night by roost- 
ing in tall mimosa trees. 

They feed on grasses, seeds, and insects ; but chiefly 
on small bulbs, which are also eagerly sought for by all 
gallinaceous birds, and which grow very abundantly 
throughout the country. 

The nests of these birds, which may be found from 
the end of December to May, consist merely of a slight 
rounded depression in the ground. It usually contains 
from fifteen to twenty eggs of a pale buff color, some- 
times speckled with pale gray. * 

These are not unfrequently placed by the colonists 
and others under domestic fowl, and the young are not 
difficult to rear ; but as they grow up, their propensity 
to roosting in high trees is rapidly developed, much to 
the distress of their foster-mother, who is unable to 
follow them to their lofty percli. 

I have also known chicks of this bird, captured in a 



36 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

wild state, to be reared ; but in no one instance, so far 
as I am aware, have these chicks, when arrived at ma- 
turity, brought up families of their own. 

The flesh of the young wild guinea-fowl is very 
white, tender, and well-flavored ; but that of the old 
one is far from tempting. 

This bird not only furnished* me with many a meal, 
but excellent sport. With management, indeed, any 
number may be shot in a day. To give some idea of 
this, I may mention that one evening we had started 
an immense flock near the water, and thinking it a favor- 
able opportunity of replenishing our exhausted larder, 
I slung a double shot-gun over my shoulder and started 
in pursuit. But though I soon found the quarry, they 
were so wild that for a long time I could not get with- 
in range. At last, and after having chased them about 
the rocks till I was nearly tired, they scattered them- 
selves among the stones, and lay so close that, unless 
I almost trod on them, they would not rise. With a 
steady pointer, it is my belief the whole flock might 
have been killed. As it was, I made a very large bag. 

We had another fine game-bird, the francolin, a 
kind of grouse (called by the colonists and others, the 
pheasant), that frequently afforded me, not only capital 
shooting, but a delicacy for the table. There are sev- 
eral species of this bird, of which the following came 
under my notice ; viz. : 

Swainson's francolin {Pternises Swamsonii, Smith). 
In travelling northward I first met with this powerful 
and somewhat coarse francolin, at the southern extrem- 
ity of Omuveroom, where it occurred sparingly, but 
became more common as I proceeded further north, 



THE FRANCOLIN. 37 

till, on the banks of the Okavango river I found it quite 
abundant. It frequents grassy localities, sprinkled 
with brush-wood, generally, but not always, selecting 
the neighborhood of springs, streams, or marshes. It 
feeds in open spots, but retires to the jungle on the first 
approach of danger, chiefly trusting to its legs to effect 
a retreat. It always roosts in trees, and occasionally 
perches on them by day ; in the early morning and 
evening it utters frequent harsh cries. The young of 
this francolin are strong on the wing about the month 
of May. 

The iris of this species is dark brown ; the loose 
and bare skin around the eyes and on the chin and 
throat, pale red, and the same color tinges the lower 
mandible of the bill and the base of the upper ; the 
remainder of the latter being a dark horn color, lightest 
at the tip. 

The Orange river francolin (Scleroptera gariepensis, 
Smith). This beautiful francolin was only met by me 
on the high table-land of Great Namaqua and Damara 
Lands, where it is frequently very abundant. The 
covey usually consists of six or eight individuals, though 
sometimes as few as three, but at others of as many as 
fourteen. 

These francolins invariably frequent glassy slopes 
sprinkled with dwarf bush. They lie very close, and 
after having been once or twice flushed, are not easily 
found again, even with the assistance of dogs. 

The iris is brown ; the bill horn-color, except near 
the base, where it is yellowish. 

Dr. Smith's figure of the female of this species, it is 
to be remarked, is altogether too dull ; for although 



38 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

the tints in the female are not so deep as in the male, 
they are still exceedingly rich and bright. 

The Cogui francolin (Scleroptera stibtorquata, Smith). 
I only met with this bird in the neighborhood of the 
Okavango river, where it is found in coveys, on grassy 
plains interspersed with large trees and brushwood. 
As with the last named, it is difficult to get on the 
wing unless with the assistance of a dog, and even then 
it is not always easy. It roosts on the ground, and 
utters a shrill, but not unpleasant call-note in the early 
morning and also toward evening. 

The iris is reddish-brown ; the bill dark horn-color ; 
angle of the mouth lemon-colored, which is also the 
color of the tarsus. 

The pileated francolin (Scleroptera Pileata, Smith). 
It was when travelling northward I first met with this 
francolin, on the stony and wooded slopes above Okam- 
bute, in northern Damaraland, but subsequently I ob- 
served it to the north of that locality. It occurs in 
coveys, and its flesh it very palatable. 
The iris is brownish. 

The red-billed francolin (Scleroptera adspersa, 
Waterhouse). This, the most common and abundant 
francolin in Damara and Great Namaqua Lands, is 
usually met with in coveys, which, in favorable seasons, 
not uncommonly consist of from ten to fourteen indi- 
viduals. This species is seldom found at any consider- 
able distance from perodical streams, and on the least 
approach to danger, seeks shelter in the trees and bushes 
with which their banks are generally studded. It, 
indeed, lives much in trees, roosting among the branches 
by night, and resting there during the heat of the day. 



RED-BILLED FRANCOLIN. 39 . 

These francolins run with extraordinary swiftness, 
and will not use their wings unless very hard pressed ; 
and when they do fly, it is with the view of concealing 
themselves among the thickest branches of some con- 
venient tree, where they remain perfectly motionless, 
and should it be a full foliaged tree in which they have 
taken refuge, it requires a good and practised eye to 
detect them ; but when the danger is over, they gener- 
ally again seek the ground. 

The feeding time of these birds is the early morn- 
ing and the cool of the evening. Their food, as with 
the other francolins, consists of small bulbs, seeds, ber- 
ries, insects, etc. 

Their notes are harsh, and so loud that they maybe 
heard at a great distance ; they resemble a succession 
of hysterical laughs, at first slow, but increasing in 
rapidity and strength till they suddenly cease. 

The female is smaller than the male ; she deposits 
her eggs in a hollow in the ground without any lining. 
The iris is dark brown ; the bare skin round the eye 
pale yellow ; the bill and legs in the adult bird are a 
rich warm red ; the toes and spurs of the male are pur- 
ple. In very young birds the bill is dark purple, and 
the color of the legs is much paler than in the adult. 

Numberless francolins, more especially of the last- 
named species, fell to my gun in Africa, and for 
the most part to a splendid pea-rifle by Purdy. On 
one occasion, indeed, I bagged with it thirty-three of 
these birds without missing a single shot. They were 
" treed," it is true ; but I still thought it rather a feat, 
as from the habit of concealing themselves behind the 
stem and branches, little more than the head or tail 



40 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

was often to be seen, and as a consequence, the posi- 
tion of their bodies was only to be guessed at. 

Francolins would seem to be equally as numerous in 
Caffraria as in Great Namaqua and Damara Lands ; for 
Delegorgue tells us (though without naming the par- 
ticular species) " that with a few charges of small shot 
he could always obtain a sufficient number of these 
birds for the wants of himself and party ; and that had, 
ammunition been more abundant, and had he felt inter- 
est in the sport, two hundred might easily have been 
killed in a day." 

The sand-grouse, commonly called the Namaqua 
partridge, was another of our game birds, but not being, 
to my taste, particularly good eating, it was but seldom 
that I went in pursuit of it. There are several species 
of this bird in Southern Africa, of which three were 
well-known to me, viz. : 

The double-banded sand-grouse {Pterocles bicinctus. 
Tern.), the most common, perhaps, in Damara and Great 
Namaqua Land. 

The eggs of this species are from two to three in 
number, laid upon the bare sand, and of a pinkish-yel- 
low color, spotted with gray and reddish-brown. 

The iris is deep red ; the skin round the eye chrome- 
yellow ; the bill yellowish-brown ; the legs and toes pale 
dull yellow. 

The variegated sand-grouse {Pterocles variegatus> 
Burch). This species is not uncommon in the northern 
and middle parts of Damaraland, as well as in the Lake 
regions ; but I do not recollect having met with it 
further to the south. 

The Namaqua sand-grouse (Pteroclurus Namaqua, 



SAND-GROUSE. 



41 



Gmel.), is very abundant in some parts of Damara- 
land. 

Its eggs are deposited on the sand, and are of a 
drabbish color, closely spotted with gray and brown ; 
they are oval, and less elongated than those of the P. 
bicinctus. 

The iris is very dark brown ; the skin round the eye 
is a somewhat pale yellow ; the bill is bluish, tinged 
with white on the lower mandible. 



Measurement of a Female. 



Entire length 
Length of folded wing 
Length of tarsus 
Length of middle toe 
Length of tail 
Length of bill 



In. 


Lines. 


11 





6 


5 





11 





9 


3 


6 



Ordinarily, the several species of sand-grouse spoken 
of are met with in pairs, or two or three together, dis- 
persed over sandy plains, where they seek their suste- 
nance ; but in the dry season, when the rain-pools are 
exhausted, they, morning and evening, resort in large 
flocks to permanent waters to quench their thirst, 
announcing their arrival and departure by incessant 
sharp cries. They usually make their appearance at 
about eight or nine o'clock in the morning, circling 
round the fountain at a considerable height before they 
descend, and adding to their number at almost every 
turn they take. Frequently they make no attempt at 
alighting, until directly .over the spot they intend to 
visit, when they descend with great velocity, at the 
same time describing more or less of a semicircle before 



42 NOTES OF TRAVEL 

they alight. And when thus congregated at the water, 
they conduct themselves in a like orderly manner as 
the guinea-fowl spoken of a few pages back, viz., they 
do not rush simultaneously to the pool, but each one 
waits its turn, the first comers having the precedence. 
And as with the guinea-fowl, the traveller, by watching 
the flight of these birds at morn or even, is often 
guided to the water. 

Their food consists of seeds, berries, and small 
bulbs, with which they mingle considerable quantities 
of sand to assist digestion. 

When the sand-grouse are collected at their drink- 
ing-places, any numbers may be shot. I have heard 
indeed of fifteen or twenty being slaughtered at a single 
discharge. 

The European quail {Coturnix communis, Bonn), is 
not uncommon in middle and southern Damaraland. 
During the year 1865, countless numbers of these birds 
arrived in the neighborhood of Cape Town, while much 
of the rest of the colony, which had suffered severely 
from drought, was nearly denuded of them. 

The Harlequin quail {CoturnixDelegorgues, Deleg.), 
was killed by me for the first time on the 30th of March, 
1867. Mr. Chapman also obtained it at Lake Ngami. 

The iris of this species is the color of new leather 
when well browned by exposure ; the bill nearly black, 
but the point of the upper mandible is light horn-color ; 
the legs and toes are dusky. 

The Little quail {Kurichane Hemipode) is not un- 
common in Great Namaqualand during the rainy sea- 
son ; but I have never found many of these birds 
together, and it is rarely that more than one of them is 



QUAILS. 



43 



flushed at a time. Their favorite resorts are rank 
grassy spots in the neighborhood of temporary rain 
pools and periodical water-courses ; here they run about 
with great celerity, and hard pressed, lie so close as 
almost to allow themselves to be trodden on before 
they take wing, after which it is nearly impossible to 
flush them a second time. They feed on insects and 
seeds. 

The iris is lemon-colored, the bill blue, with the tip 
of the mandible dark horn-color ; the tarsi and feet 
flesh-colored white. 

In. Lines. 
Entire length 
Length of folded wing 
Length of tarsus 



Length of middle toe 
Length of tail 
Length of bill 



The snipes were also among our game birds. At 
least the African painted snipe (Rynchcea Cafiensis, 
Linn.). 

Measurement of a Male. 





In. Lines 


Entire length 


9 2 


Length of folded wing . 


4 9 


Length of tarsus . . 


I 9 


Length of middle toe . 


i 5 


Length of tail . . 


i 9 


Length of bill . 


I 10 



The head of this bird is brown, slightly variegated 
with white, a yellow stripe passes from the base of the 
bill over the centre of the head to the back of the 
neck, a similar stripe rises immediately in front of each 



44 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

eye, passing to the back of the head, two similar stripes, 
bordered by black, extend from the shoulders down 
the back to the root of the tail ; neck grayish-brown, 
barred finely on the back portion with dark brown, on 
the anterior portion more coarsely with the same color : 
it is likewise bisected by a white collar ; under parts all 
white, back beautifully marked with transverse black, 
white, and gray bars, the wings with numerous semi- 
ocelli, which are yellow edged with black ; when ex- 
tended they expose numerous yellow, or white ocelli, 
also edged with black, and also numerous black wavy 
transverse bars, chiefly on a slate-colored ground, the 
tail being similarly marked. 

The female, eye stripe pure white, chin dirty white, 
neck and breast deep dull rufous, succeeded by a broad 
black collar, and pure white on the under part, broken 
only by a patch of black on each side ; the plumage of 
the back is much darker than on the male, and the 
wings, when closed, instead of having the black and 
yellow markings of the male, are a shining green, trans- 
versely and minutely barred with black, all lustrously 
with metallic green, legs green, bill red at the tip, iris 
hazel. 

This bird, though only found sparingly in Great Na- 
maqua, was common in Damaraland, a pair or two 
being always met with wherever the ground was 
swampy ; it is also pretty common in all the water-sheds 
to the north and east on the last-named country ; as 
also in Ondonga, where it breeds. 

Though partial to marshy ground, this species is 
also found on the side of little rills and running springs, 
it lies close like common snipe, but its flight is very dif- 



AFRICAN PAINTED SNIPE. 45 

ferent, being heavy and comparatively slow, and when 
flushed it flies but short distances before again alight- 
ing. It lives singly or in pairs ; but a dozen may some- 
times be found scattered over a small marsh within a 
short distance of each other. It would seem to feed 
chiefly on insects ; the flesh is very palatable. 

The painted snipe makes no nests ; the female de- 
posits her eggs — three to four in number, and of a very 
dark color, freely blotched with black — near to the 
water. 

Though the double or solitary snipe (Gallinago 
major, Gmel.) is a regular migrator to Natal and the 
Transvaal Republic (arriving in the former country in 
September or October, and leaving again in January 
or February) I am very doubtful if it be indigenous, or 
even a visitor to Great Namaqua or Damaraland, as I 
never met with or even heard speak of it in either of 
those countries. The only specimen of this bird, indeed, 
that came into my possession while in Southern Africa, 
was at Ondonga (Ovampo Land) in 1867. 

I have very great doubts, moreover, of the common 
snipe (G. Scolopacend) being a native of, or even a 
migrate of Damaraland and the adjacent regions. At 
one time, it is true, I was of a different opinion ; this 
was when encamped at Omonbonde, waiting for the 
rains to enable me to penetrate into the far interior. 
In the extensive marsh at that place both ducks and 
snipes were pretty plentiful, and afforded me many a 
good meal. At that time, however, I was simple 
enough to imagine the snipes I then shot were of the 
common kind, and therefore neglected to preserve speci- 
mens ; but since then I have had reason to believe 



40 'NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

that I was mistaken, and that they might have been 
examples of the South African snipe (G. nigrepennes), 
which bears a very considerable resemblance to the G. 
Scolopacena. 

Neither the jack snipe (G. Gallinuld), nor its con- 
gener, the woodcock, I may add, ever came under my 
notice either in Damaraland or elsewhere in Southern 
Africa. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Vultures — Power of scenting their prey at a distance — Sir Samuel 
Baker's theory — Extraordinsry field of vision — Waterton's theory — 
Andersson's theory — The Marabou stork — The ostrich — New spe- 
cies — Chase of ostriches by Namaquas — Pursuit of ostriches on 
horseback — Hottentot expedient for carrying off osti"ich eggs. 

SPEAKING of birds, I would say a few words regard- 
ing the vulture, or rather on the much vexed ques- 
tion as to whether it is directed to its food by scent or 
sight, regarding which various opinions have been haz- 
arded. M. , for instance, as will be seen, advocates 

the former. He writes as follows : 

" One day when standing outside a farm-house in 
company with my friend, Charles Bainbridge, as I was 
casually casting my eyes heavenward, I perceived little 
specks in the sky, which gradually became larger and 
larger. Drawing my host's attention to these objects, 
and asking for explanation, he quietly remarked, * they 
are vultures, evidently scenting some carcass ; let us 
go in the direction they are hovering over and descend- 
ing.' After a short walk we came upon two sick sheep. 
1 These,' remarked my friend, ' are what the birds are 
looking for.' It seemed to me incredible that a bird at 
that enormous heightshould be able to distinguish any- 
thing, and much more between an animal lying down, 
and one in the same situation, but sick. Nevertheless, 
the farmer, accustomed to these sights, was right, for 



48 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

on removing the suffering brutes to the homestead, the 
vultures gradually began to rise, and as quickly disap- 
peared as they had appeared. 

Sir Samuel Baker, on the contrary, though admit- 
ting that scent often aids the vulture, would seem to be 
clearly of opinion that it is chiefly by sight that it is 
guided to the carcass ; he says : 

" A question has been frequently discussed whether 
the vulture is directed to his prey by the sense of smell 
or by keenness of vision. I have paid much attention 
to their habits, and, although there can be no question 
that their power of scent is great, I feel convinced that 
all birds of prey are attracted to their food principally 
by their acuteness of sight. If a vulture were blind it 
would starve ; but were the nostrils plugged up with 
some foreign substance to destroy the power of smell, 
it would not materially interfere with its usual mode 
of hunting ; scent is always stronger near the surface 
of the ground ; thus hyenas, lions, and other beasts of 
prey,*will scent a carcass for a long distance, provided 
they are to leeward, but the same animals would be 
unaware of the presence of the body if they were but a 
short distance to windward. 

" If birds of prey trusted to their nostrils, they would 
keep as near to the ground as possible, like the carrion 
crow, which, I believe, is the exception that proves the 
rule. It is an astonishing sight to witness the sudden 
arrival of vultures at the death of an animal, when a 
few moments before not a bird has been in sight in the 
cloudless sky. I have frequently lain down beneath a 
bush, after having shot an animal, to watch the arrival 



THE VULTURE. 49 

of the various species of birds in regular succession. 
They invariably appear in the following order: 

" No. 1. The black and white crow ; this knowing 
individual is most industrious in seeking for his food, 
and is generally to be seen either perched upon rocks 
or upon trees. I believe he trusts much to his sense 
of smell, as he is never far from the ground, while at 
the same time he keeps a vigilant look-out with a very 
sharp pair of eyes. 

" No. 2 is the common buzzard ; this bird, so well- 
known for its extreme daring, is omnipresent, and trusts 
generally to sight, as it will stop at a piece of red cloth 
in mistake for flesh; thus proving that it depends more 
upon vision than smell. 

" No. 3 is the red-faced small vulture. 

" No. 4 the large bare-throated vulture. 

" No. 5 the Marabou stork, sometimes accompanied 
by the adjutant. 

" When employed in watching the habits of these 
birds, it is interesting to make the experiment of con- 
cealing a dead animal beneath a dense bush. This I 
have frequently done, in which case the vultures never 
find it unless they have witnessed its death ; if so, they 
will already have pounced in their descent while you 
have been engaged in concealing the body; they will 
then, upon near approach, discover it by the smell. 
But if an animal is killed in thick grass eight or ten feet 
high, the vultures will seldom discover it. I have fre- 
quently known the bodies of large animals, such as 
elephants and buffaloes, to lie for days together beneath 
the shade of the dense nabbuk bushes, unattended, by 
3 



50 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

a single vulture; whereas, if visible, they would have 
been visited by these birds in thousands. 

" Vultures and the Marabou stork fly at enormous 
altitudes. I believe that every species keeps to its own 
particular elevation, and that the atmosphere contains 
regular strata of birds of prey, who, invisible to the 
human eye at their enormous height, are constantly 
resting upon their wide-spread wings, and soaring in 
circles, watching with telescopic sight the world beneath. 
At that great elevation they are in an exceedingly cool 
temperature, and therefore require no water ; but some 
birds that make long flights over arid deserts, such as 
the Marabou stork and the buzzard, are provided with 
water-sacks ; the former in an external bag a little 
below the throat, the latter in an internal sack, both 
of which carry a large supply. As the birds of prey 
that I have enumerated invariably appear at a carcass 
in their regular succession, I can only suggest that they 
travel from different distances or altitudes. Thus the 
Marabou stork would be the farthest from the earth, 
the large bare-necked vulture would be the next below 
him, followed by the red-faced vulture, the buzzard, 
and the crow that is generally about the surface. 
From their immense elevation, the birds of prey possess 
an extraordinary field of vision, and although they are 
invisible from the earth, there can be no doubt that they 
are perpetually hunting in circles within sight of each 
other. Thus, should one vulture discover some object 
upon the surface of the earth below, his sudden pounce 
would be at once observed and imitated by every other 
in succession. Should the one vulture nearest the - 
earth perceive a body, or even should he notice the 



THE MARABOU STORK. 51 

buzzards collecting at a given point, he would forthwith 
become aware of a prey, and his rush toward the spot 
would act like a telegraphic signal to others that would 
be rapidly communicated to every vulture at successive 
airy stations. 

" If an animal be skinned, the red surface will 
attract the vultures in an instant. This proves that 
their sight, and not their scent, has been attracted by 
an object that suggests blood. I have frequently 
watched them when I have shot an animal, and my 
people have commenced the process of skinning. At 
first, not a bird has been in sight, as I have lain on my 
back and gazed into the spotless blue sky, but hardly 
has the skin been half-withdrawn when specks rapidly 
moving have appeared in the heavens, ' caw ! caw ! ' has 
been heard several times from the neighboring bushes, 
the buzzards have swept down close to my people, and 
have snatched a morsel of clotted blood from the 
ground. The specks have increased to winged creatures, 
at the great height resembling flies, when presently a 
rushing sound behind me, like a whirlwind, has been 
followed by the pounce of a red faced vulture that has 
fallen from the heavens in haste, with closed wings, to 
the bloody feast, followed quickly by many of his 
brethren. The sky has become alive with black specks 
in the far-distant blue, and with wings hurrying from 
all quarters. At length a coronet of steady, soaring 
vultures forms a wide circle far above, as they hesitate 
to descend, but continue to revolve around the object 
of attraction. The great bare-necked vulture suddenly 
appears. The animal shot has been skinned, and the 
required flesh secured by the men. We withdraw a 



52 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

hundred paces from the scene. A general rush and 
descent takes place ; hundreds of hungry beaks are 
tearing at the offal. The great bare-necked vulture 
claims respect among the crowd. But another form 
has appeared in the blue sky, and rapidly descends; a 
pair of long, ungainly legs hanging down beneath the 
enormous wings, now touch the ground, and Abon Seen 
(the father of the teeth and beak, the Arab name for 
the Marabou) has arrived from the higher regions, and 
stalks proudly toward the crowd, pecking his way with 
his long beak through the struggling vultures that had 
preceded him, and swallowing the lion's share of the 
repast. This bird is very numerous throughout the 
Nile tributaries of Abyssinia, and may generally be 
SQtn perched upon the rocks on the water-side, watch- 
ing for small fish and reptiles that may ch'ance to come 
within his reach." 

Waterton would seem to take a different view of 
the subject in question, from Sir Samuel Baker ; he 
says : 

" Vultures, as far as I have been able to observe, do 
not keep together in a large flock when they are soar- 
ing up and down, apparently in quest of a tainted cur- 
rent. Now suppose a mule has just expired behind a 
high wall under the denser foliage of evergreen tropical 
trees ; fifty vultures, we will say, roost on a tree a mile 
from the dead mule. When morning comes, off they 
go in quest of food. Ten .fly by mere chance to the 
wood where the mule lies, and manage to spy it out 
through the trees ; the rest go in quite a different di- 
rection. How are the last mentioned birds to find the 
mule? Every minutes carries them farther from it. 



GREAT BARE-NECKED VULTURE. 53 

Now reverse the statement, and instead of a mule 
newly dead, let us suppose a mule in an offensive state 
of decomposition. I would stake my life upon it that, 
not only the fifty vultures would be at the carcass next 
morning, but also that every other vulture in the adja- 
cent forest would manage to get there in time to partake 
of the repast." 

The much mooted question as to whether the vul- 
ture hunts by sight or scent, has also occupied much 
of my attention, and what came under my observation 
on a certain occasion goes far to convince me the bird 
employs both the one and the other of these senses in 
finding its prey. 

Early one morning I was toiling up the ascent of a 
somewhat elevated range of hills, with the view of ob- 
taining bearings for my travelling map. Before arriving 
at the summit, however, I observed several vultures 
descending the declivity ; but thinking I had merely 
disturbed them from the lofty perch where they 
passed the night, I did not at first take particular notice 
of them. On gaining the summit of the hill, neverthe- 
less, I found that the birds in question had not come 
from the high ground, but from an independent distance 
on the other side of the hill. This circumstance, coup- 
led with the recollection that I had wounded a zebra 
on the preceding day in the same direction as the vul- 
tures were proceeding, and fancying that this animal 
might be their object, I paid more attention to their 
movements. Beyond the hill in question, the flight of 
the birds was at least five hundred or a thousand feet 
beneath me, but when they approached the base of the 
hill, and, at times so far apart that the next comer was 



54 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

not visible to the naked eye, they abruptly rose, and 
without deviating from it in the slightest degree, fol- 
lowed the course pursued by their companions. They 
were a very numerous company. 

Having completed my observations, I descended 
the bill, and proceeded in the direction taken by the 
vultures ; and after about an hour's rapid walking I 
found, as I had anticipated, the carcass of the zebra 
mentioned, with a numerous company busily employed 
in discussing it. 

The other vultures discovered the zebra in the first 
instance, though whether by sight or scent I know not, 
is certain ; but that those met with by me on the hill, 
so far from having been directed to the carcass by 
scent, were merely following by sight those who pre- 
ceded them, I fell satisfied. 

Both in my own works and in those of other sports- 
men and travellers, I would observe, mention is fre 
quently made of the swarms of vultures that usually 
congregate about the carcass o^ a dead animal ; never- 
theless, but few probably form to themselves an idea 
of the number as estimated by Delegorgue, who, after 
telling us that " on his return to a buffalo shot by him 
some little time previously," says : 

" Notwithstanding our near proximity to the spot, 
the vultures came ^from all quarters, and disputed 
uriously with each other for the best places ; the kst 
comers descending from the air, resting their feet on 
the bodies of the first, whom they constrained by their 
weight to give place to them. Many sharp blows with 
their beak were exchanged, of which, however, such 
was their ardor, even the wounded seemed to take no 



VULTURE HUNTS. 55 

notice. Their number probably exceeded five hundred. 
The carcass of the buffalo was completely hidden from 
sight by them, and on all sides round about were many 
others attempting to drive away those who were already 
gorging themselves. 

" Though all were equally greedy, yet doubtless 
there was among this great mass of sharp beaks and 
upraised tails more than one unjust oppressor. Observ- 
ing this, the idea came into my head to keep some kind 
of order among them. My gun was pointed into the 
midst of this mountain of vultures, distant one hundred 
and ten paces. The explosion ensued, and seven of the 
number remained on the spot, either killed or helplessly 
wounded by a single ball ! Certainly a justifiable motive 
was wanting to induce me so to act, because the inno- 
cent as well as the guilty equally suffered ; but to speak 
the truth, my real object was to ascertain the effect my 
bullet would have on a great gathering of individuals 
of this species. It was, however, a destruction not only 
useless, but blamable, because the vultures render 
these countries a signal service in rapidly absorbing 
quantities of offal that would otherwise contaminate the 
air with deleterious miasma." 

Of the ostrich I have also a word to say, not, how- 
ever, as regards its natural history, etc., of which, in 
my former works I entered into rather full particulars, 
both in consequence of having recently discovered 
what, from an early period of my wanderings, I had 
suspected, viz., that another species of that bird, one 
quite new to science, exists in Southern Africa, a fact 
that may interest many. 

" In the common species the male is black, with white 



56 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

tail and wings, while the female is of a grayish color. Of 
the new species I have not an entire specimen so as to be 
enabled to give an accurate description of the entire 
bird ; still I possess sufficient data to enable me to 
vouch for the correctness of my statement, having 
three pieces or portions of skin of two males, one 
female, and a young one, apparently about half grown. 

The male bird would seem to differ but little from 
the well-known African species, except in size, it being 
somewhat larger ; the great and specific difference lies 
with the female and the young. The former is jet 
black in the body, like the male. The young is of a 
sooty-brown, and the feathers, which are narrow, and 
come to an acute point, are tipped with light brown ; 
the tail similar, but interspersed with a few gray or 
grayish-white feathers ; the wings similar to the tail, 
but of a softer texture ; the thighs and neck white. 
The egg of this species is said to be larger than that of 
the common ostrich. The bird in question seems to be 
pretty commonly distributed over the boundless wastes 
and plains of both Great Namaqua and Damaraland, 
and herds with the ordinary species. 

Many of the natives, hunters also, speak of a third 
species of ostrich, which they characterize by some very 
marked distinctions ; thus, for instance, I am assured 
that it has a narrow but conspicuous bar across the 
back or rump, and a double row of quills" on each wing ; 
also, that the color is brownish gray in both sexes ; 
nevertheless, I mention it here more for the purpose of 
drawing the attention of naturalists to the subject, than 
from any personal belief in its existence as a third dis- 
tinct South African species. 



THE OSTRICH. 57 

Though, as recently observed, I have in my former 
works gone much into detail in regard to the ostrich, 
the following means of effecting its capture, as pursued 
by the Namaquas with considerable success, were not 
then described. 

A troop of ostriches having been espied, a number 
of men set about surrounding them, but at a great dis- 
tance ; and in the first instance, therefore, the hunters 
stand far apart from each other. When a sufficient 
time has elapsed for the completion of the circle, they 
all move forward simultaneously, keeping the while as 
much out of sight of the birds as possible, and taking 
care at the same time not to appear to direct their at- 
tention to the quarry, but merely to show themselves 
in such a manner as to cause the birds to "give way," 
or move off in a different direction, where they are 
pretty certain to meet an enemy and to be turned back 
again. For a time, the ostriches are thus kept quietly 
moving within the circle, but when at length this 
becomes compressed, and the hunters see that the 
chances of the birds escaping are but small, they keep 
them moving at a rapid pace, shouting, yelling, and 
gesticulating violently at the same time ; so that the 
poor creatures soon become utterly exhausted, and an 
end is presently put to the exciting scene by the slaugh- 
ter of the whole or greater part of them. With expe- 
rienced hunters, this plan of capture seldom tails of in- 
suring success. 

The same people resort to another, and even more 

destructive way, of capturing the ostrich than that just 

described. At times indeed, a whole tribe, many of 

the men being mounted, take part in it. The locality 

3* 



58 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

for the hunt having been determined on, a body of 
horsemen station themselves at intervals across a defile, 
on the narrow portion of a plain where the quarry is 
likely to pass, while others, also mounted, are despatched 
in search of the birds. These, when on the way, leave 
at convenient distances one or other of their number to 
act, not only as sentinels, but for a purpose that will 
presently be shown. Having found the destined vic- 
tims, with whose favorite haunts they are pretty well 
acquainted, the remainder of the party begin gradually 
and cautiously to drive the unsuspecting birds before 
them, and in the direction of their comrades, who are 
lying in wait. 

This purpose effected, they urge the poor creatures 
forward at a telling pace, and on coming to the men, 
stationed as sentinels, they themselves drop behind, 
leaving the latter to continue the pursuit in their stead. 
After breathing their horses they draw up in line, 
thereby forming a barrier, so to say, should the quarry 
head back or attempt to escape in that direction. 
Thus the ostriches have not a moment's respite given 
them in their headlong flight, and it consequently not 
unfrequently happens that by the time they reach 
the horseman waiting for them, they are so exhausted 
as to come to a dead stand-still — or even to fall help- 
lessly to the ground. The captures on these occa- 
sions are often very considerable. At times, indeed, 
greater than the hunters require for food, and in which 
case they will allow such of the birds as they stand not 
in need of, after first despoiling them of their valuable 
wing and tail feathers, to depart without further 
injury. 



ROBBING OSTRICH EGGS. 59 

In concluding these few observations on the chase 
of the ostrich, I would here add the result of not only 
my own trifling experience, but that of others, of late 
years ; viz., that these birds are easier of approach when 
congregated in numbers,* than when there are only two 
or three together; and that in pursuing them on horse- 
back considerable experience is requisite to insure suc- 
cess. Thus, to ride steadily after them without distress- 
ing your steed ; but so soon as they evince signs of 
being desirous of halting, give them another start by 
pushing your horse suddenly forward, and thus continue 
until such time as they begin to wave their wings heav- 
ily, a sure sign of partial exhaustion. This is the mo- 
ment to urge your steed to the utmost ; but never 
attempt to ride down the ostrich unless the sun be 
scorching hot. 

Speaking of this bird reminds me of a somewhat 
singular expedient the Hottentots are accustomed to 
resort to when chance leads them to its nest. After 
divesting themselves of their trousers, and tying up the 
lower ends thereof, they securely pack the eggs within 
them, and when thus converted into a kind of saddle- 
bags, they either throw them over their shoulders, or, 
if mounted, across the backs of their steeds, and thus 
convey the prizes to their homes. 

* Though I myself have never seen any very great number of ostriches 
together, yet other travellers have been more fortunate, Lechtensten, for 
instance, after describing a spirited chase after these birds, goes no to say, 
" The number we saw could scarcely have been less than three hundred." 



CHAPTER V. ' 

Harassing period of my life — Kamaherero and his tribe — Power of the 
Namaquas — Wretched condition of the enslaved tribe — Rising of 
the Damaras — Visit of Philippus, son of a Damara chief — Upright 
conduct of the Damaras — Rumors — Treachery of the Namaquas — 
Alarm at Otjimbingue — Battle and victory of the Damaras — Death 
of Rev. Mr. Kleinschmidt. 

I NOW approach a period of my life at once the 
most painful, the most harassing, and the most fatal 
— fatal to my worldly and hard-earned possessions in 
the most complete sense, and all but fatal to my life. 
As it was, it left me a poor useless cripple for the 
remainder of my existence. But it is a long story and 
one difficult to tell. 

Those who have perused the pages of " Lake 
Ngami " may remember the name of Katchamaha, 
as one of the four great chiefs whom Mr. Galton and 
myself found on our arrival in Damaraland The old 
man was dead, but Kamaherero, the eldest surviving 
son — for several had been killed in the civil wars of the 
country and by the Namaquas — finding his people 
diminishing fast, and dreading, I presume, the ultimate 
destruction of himself and the tribe — he, together with 
the latter, suddenly threw himself on Jonker's mercy 
and protection. The refugees were well received by 
the politic chief, and located, as it would seem, at no 
great distance from his own werft, where for a time 



LOT OF THE DAMARAS. 6 1 

they were treated with consideration, in fact, the 
Damara chieftain's power, though broken, was still so 
formidable that Jonker somewhat dreaded him. More- 
over, such an ally would prove of inestimable service 
to him in his numerous predatory excursions against 
such of the Damaras as still retained their independence, 
and a bulwark against enemies in general. For some 
time, therefore, Kamaherero was left unmolested, with 
the exception of occasional demands upon his purse 
i. e. his cattle. But the Namaquas,long accustomed to 
power, and to have their slightest whim obeyed by a 
people who seem naturally to have fallen into serfdom, 
soon acquired unlimited sway over their soi-disant 
friends and allies, who at length became little bettei 
than slaves and minions of their unscrupulous pro- 
tectors. 

Things had for some years thus gone on from bad 
to worse ; for not content with keeping them in abject 
submission,, and plundering them of their possessions, 
the Namaquas proceeded to personal violence, the Da- 
mara chief himself not being exempt from insult and 
degradation. The natural weakness and apathy of the 
Damara character made them bear their lot patiently, 
though not contentedly ; in fact the tribe had gradu- 
ally grown strong again, partly by the infusion of the 
remnants of other tribes, who like themselves, had 
sought safety with their enemies, and partly by their 
own natural increase. Moreover, a great portion had 
become tolerably conversant with the sight and use of 
fire-arms, as well as with their once equally dreaded 
enemy, the horse. Lastly, and not the least important 
circumstance, they began to feel their own physical 



62 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

superiority. It was impossible for them to be blind to 
the difference between themselves and the Namaquas, 
the diminutive, slight, and frail figure of the latter, 
when compared with their own tall and well-made 
frames. Even Jonker himself was not slow to perceive 
this defect in his people ; but as a set-off, the Damaras 
were studiously- prevented from acquiring any quantity 
of guns or ammunition. About this time, too, I believe, 
the Damaras had been secretly invited by another tribe, 
of Namaquas — the sworn enemies of Jonker and his 
people — to join them openly against their oppressors or, 
at all events, hints had been broadly given that certain 
advantages would be insured to them if they only 
would hold themselves neutral should a rupture take 
place. Jonker was hated by most of the Namaquas, 
with whom he had either fought and plundered in 
former years, or who were jealous of his ever-increasing 
power and wealth. But so long as he had the main 
body of the Damaras on his side they hesitated to show 
their enmity very openly. 

Thus fear and suspicions against their friends, which 
had probably never been altogether absent from minds 
so debased and naturally prone to distrust as those of 
the Namaquas, who, moreover, could not altogether shut 
their eyes to the deadly injuries they themselves in- 
flicted on their allies, began both directly and indirectly 
to appear in their conduct. Indeed, when " deep in their 
cups," that is when wildly intoxicated by the brandy 
of the country, the Namaquas but too frequently gave 
the Damaras cause for the worst fears, their language 
then breathing nothing but death and destruction. 
Kamaherero, therefore, with all his natural weakness 



VISIT OF KAMAHERERO. 63 

and apathy, could not altogether remain indifferent to 
his precarious position, and he must have felt that he 
was daily, nay hourly, treading on a slumbering vol- 
cano, which a spark would be sufficient to ignite and 
overwhelm him with ruin. Indeed many of his friends 
and acquaintances had already been murdered either 
openly or in secret. 

But this state of things could not last forever, and 
the storm which had been brewing, shortly afterward 
burst forth in all its fury, confounding in its violence 
alike the guilty and the innocent, and carrying desola- 
tion to many a peaceful home, and ruin to hundreds. 
At the same time it was fortunately not without its 
beneficial consequences, humbling and impoverishing, 
as it ultimately did, the tyrants who had become 
wealthy through their iniquity, and bringing liberty 
and competence to many of the oppressed and the 
poor. 

A short time before this general outbreak occurred, 
and not very long after the tragical incident related in 
the foregoing pages, Kamaherero came to pay me a visit 
at Otjimbingue. I entertained him hospitably for a few 
days, bestowing on him a few trifling presents, and when 
he was ready to depart, I casually alluded to his posi- 
tion, inquiring whether there was any prospect of im- 
provement. 

" None," he dejectedly replied, " I am, as you well 
know, treated like a dog, and tremble constantly for my 
life ; for if not openly taken away I am sure to lose it 
on some dark night. ,1 asked Jonker, and since his 
death, his sons and others, for a place for my people 
where we could live by ourselves, and do a little garden- 



64 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

ing, etc. But I never can get an answer, and it is clear 
they do not mean to grant my poor request ; on the 
contrary they seem half afraid of us, and would fain 
take away all our lives." 

'•And knowing all this," I rejoined, " is it still your 
resolve to do nothing ? " 

" Yes, I would like to get away, it is true, but how 
can I ? We are watched night and day," adding, how- 
ever, abruptly, " Would you let me live at Otjimbingue 
if I came there ? " 

" Certainly," I answered, " and simply because I 
cannot prevent you if I would, for I count only the 
buildings on the place my own, with sufficient ground 
for garden purposes, and right to the necessary grazing 
for my cattle, etc. Whoever remains master of the 
country at large, remains also master of the land here- 
about." 

This was all that ever passed between us on this or 
any other occasion when we met, at least as regards 
any allusion to the Damaras trying to obtain their lib- 
erty. I am so particular in stating this much, because 
it has been imputed to me that I had urged the Da- 
maras to free themselves. I shall readily be believed, 
however, when I state that beyond a desire to see the 
oppressed righted, I had no earthly interest in the Da- 
maras obtaining their liberty, or rather my interest, in 
a commercial point of view, lay all the other way, since 
the Damaras were very poor, and the little they did 
possess they parted with most unwillingly. In fact, 
being less civilized than the Namaquas, they had nat- 
urally fewer wants, and consequently fewer motives to 
seek the trader. 



. RUMORED RISING OF THE DAMARAS. 65 

Not long after Kamaherero's return to his people, 
then living on intimate terms with their Hottentot 
protectors, there were rumors of a rising among the 
Damaras, who it was said had suddenly made their 
escape to some neighboring rocks where they received 
daily additions to their numbers, and were now trying 
to obtain permission to live in friendship with their 
hard and cruel masters on terms more favorable than 
had hitherto been granted to them. They offered to 
give up all the cattle they had charge of, provided they 
were allowed to depart peaceably. But though the 
Afrikaners were quite unprepared for the emergency, 
they had been so accustomed to look upon the Da- 
maras as little better than dogs, that they were unwil- 
ling to believe that their late slaves had been guilty of 
the presumption of rising against them, and therefore 
refused to listen to any proposals whatever. When this 
news reached us w T e were equally incredulous ; but a 
friendly Griqua, coming from the scene of disturbance, 
fully corroborated the common report. 

At this period there was living at Otjimbingue, at 
least that part of it belonging to the Rhenish Mission- 
ary Society, a Christian Damara of the name of Philip- 
pus. He had been brought up by the Rev. Mr. Hahn, 
and in addition to the polish thus obtained, possessed 
shrewdness, intelligence, and much good sense. Philip- 
pus was the son of a deceased chief of some impor- 
tance, and related to Kamaherero somewhat closely. 
Very shortly after the news of the Damara rising had 
been confirmed, he came to inform me that he was 
about to join his kinsman, and inquired whether I would 
in any way assist him or Kamaherero ? 



66 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

" Certainly not," I replied, " I have no wish to get 
involved in an affair that I but too clearly foresee must 
ultimately ruin my business, if not bring about worse 
consequences. But I will allow the Damaras to supply 
their wants at my store, provided they honestly pay for 
what they obtain." 

With this understanding we partecl, and from that 
day small parties of Damaras were frequently passing my 
place, all wearing on their countenances a determined 
air as if bent on accomplishing some fixed purpose, 
On inquiring their destination, they replied they were 
on their way to join their countrymen, who, they were 
told, had risen against their oppressors, and. had asked 
their help. I never encouraged them byword or deed, 
though I considered their conduct very natural. I did 
not even wish them God speed, and yet I have been 
blamed for backing them in their rebellion. 

A week had now elapsed, during which time the 
most contradictory reports had reached us, and we 
were thus kept in considerable suspense as to the issue 
of this sudden rupture. At one time we heard that a 
battle had been fought in which the Damaras had come 
off victorious, then the report was the reverse. The 
first reliable news we had was from Kamaherero him- 
self, who one day suddenly presented himself before 
me, informing me that he and his people had made 
their escape in safety, and wished to settle down at 
Otjimbingue. They had likewise brought with them 
large numbers of cattle, and though most of these had 
been purloined from the Damaras at various times, 
they offered them to me with a request that I would 
return them forthwith to the Namaquas. This, under 



ESCAPE OF THE DAMARAS. 6/ 

the circumstances, was utterly impossible, but I told 
my new acquaintances that I would write and tell 
Christian Afrikaner of their wishes and intentions, beg- 
ging him to send a few trustworthy men to receive the 
cattle, and guaranteeing the safety of his men with my 
own life. I had myself already received a letter from 
this chief, informing me of the entente of the Damaras, 
and insolently forbidding me to give them protection, 
or to sell them necessaries. I took this opportunity to 
tell him respectfully, but firmly, that I acknowledged 
no chief in my private transactions ; that I was a neutral 
party, wishing to earn my bread without fear or favor, 
and that I would most assuredly sell the Damaras 
whatever I chose, provided they were able honestly to 
pay for what they required. I further earnestly en- 
treated the chief to grant the Damaras their liberty, 
and to come himself, or to send some men of consider- 
ation, to talk matters over quietly. " Attempt nothing 
by force," I concluded, " for I cannot then answer for 
the result." 

After some delay an answer arrived, but couched in 
most equivocal terms. The letter reached us on a Sun- 
day, just as we were coming out of the Missionary 
church, and was dated two long days' journey off, in- 
forming us that the Namaquas would be at Otjimbingue 
in two or three days' time, and that their intentions 
were peaceable. We knew enough of the Namaquas' 
character not to put too implicit faith in their prom- 
ises ; and we were strengthened in our suspicions by 
the messengers, who declared that, so far from their 
intentions being friendly, they had uttered the most 
deadly threats, and would only be satisfied when they 



68 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

had slain every man of the Damaras, and razed Otjim- 
bingue to the ground ! If this was really 'true, it involved 
myself and my property in the general ruin contem- 
plated. Still I would do nothing to compromise my- 
self, but wait for ocular demonstrations of their hostility, 
before I took up arms in my own defence. 

On the Monday morning following, having risen 
pretty early, as was my custom, I was passing from my 
house to the store, when, happening to cast my eyes in 
the direction in which we might expect to see the 
enemy in the course of another day or so, I was startled 
by observing an immense cloud of dust extending over 
several miles of road, and almost simultaneously I was 
surprised by the wild and fearful cry, " The Hottentots, 
the Hottentots are coming ! to arms, to arms ! " The 
scene that followed baffles all attempts at description. 
Notwithstanding the warning that had been received, 
it was apparent that nothing was ready ; and we had 
clearly been surprised. In five minutes every nook 
and corner of the accessible parts of my house was 
crowded by terror-stricken women and screaming chil- 
dren. Truly it was a pitiful sight ! Nevertheless, I 
drove them pell-mellinto the yard, which afforded them 
ample protection, being surrounded on all sides by thick 
walls. The concealment, however, was premature ; butj 
in any case, to have allowed them to keep possession 
of the house would have been unwise, as their presence 
w r ould have hampered our movements, had it been 
found necessary to convert, it into a temporary " for- 
tress." The whole establishment, however, was very 
favorable for defence, being built in the form of a square, 
consisting in a great measure of substantial ball-proof 



PREMATURE ALARM. 69 

buildings, capable of sheltering hundreds, nay thousands 
of human beings if requisite. 

Hastily preparing ourselves for defence, should the 
Hottentots have the temerity to attack the place itself, 
we proceeded quietly (my brave wife and other women 
belonging to the establishment accompanying us) to 
view the battle which had already begun, and of which 
we commanded at every point a full view. 

What with the intended surprise and the cowed 
nature of the Damaras, the Hottentots, it seems, had 
confidently reckoned on an easy victory. Accordingly, 
a strong party of horsemen made a bold push for the 
missionary station, which had to be passed before they 
could reach my own place, and for a few minutes it 
really appeared as if their anticipations were about to 
be realized. The firing was very close and regular, and 
for some minutes so dense were the volumes of smoke 
that the whole scene was hidden from our view. When 
at last it began to clear away a little, we saw, to our 
horror, that the Damaras were giving way on every 
side, and the battle seemed on the point of being lost, 
but somehow they rallied, and the contest became 
more fierce and deadly. Meanwhile, the rest of the 
enemy, several hundreds strong, extended themselves 
in a long line to the right and left, and the left wing, 
which had got opposite to my premises was within long 
rifle-range. They had advanced so far without any 
serious resistance, and I began to have some doubts as 
to the issue of this day's doings. That portion of the 
Damaras who could be* most depended on, lived at a 
considerable distance, and had not yet arrived, and I 
much feared that all might be lost ere they could reach 



JO NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

the scene of action. The appearance of the Hottentots 
had been so sudden, and the fight had begun so soon 
after, that there had been no time for sending them 
word. Our only hopes rested on the chance of their 
hearing the firing, and in this we were not deceived ; 
for just at this critical moment, when the Namaquas 
were evidently carrying all before them, a small but 
gallant body of men were seen emerging from the bush 
on the flank of the enemy, whom they charged at their 
utmost speed, throwing them into considerable confu- 
sion. The victorious band was greeted by a yell of 
triumph, swelled by the joyful acclamations of the 
women, who had come forth in great numbers from 
their hiding-places to view the battle like ourselves. 

The Damaras were shortly after joined by a strong 
detachment, the last, and the most reliable of all. I 
now began to breathe with considerably more ease, es- 
pecially as the Damaras held their own for upward of 
two hours, and were slowly but steadily gaining upon 
their opponents, who were giving way in more than one 
quarter. The Damaras displayed on that day a won- 
derful facility for insinuating themselves into places in 
which I should hardly have deemed a child could have 
been concealed — in fact, for awhile, we, the spectators, 
commanding as we did a full view of the animating 
scene of struggle, had for a time lost sight of many of 
the combatants. At last, however, was heard the ex- 
ultant cry, " They are funning ! they are running ! " and 
at the same instant, as if by magic, every bush, rock, 
and hollow seemed alive with swarthy human beings. 
A grand but appalling scene now followed. Fully fif- 
teen hundred Damaras set off in hot pursuit of the fly- 



DEFEAT OF THE NAMAQUAS. 7 1 

ing Namaquas, who now only thought how they might 
best use their legs ; it was, however, short work, as the 
broad assegai of the Damaras made terrible havoc in 
the ranks of their opponents, ten or a dozen dead bodies 
being frequently found heaped on one another in one 
spot, testifying to the dreadful character of the weapon 
when used at: close quarters, and the unsparing hands 
of those who dealt the deadly thrusts. Quarter that 
day was rarely asked, and certainly never given, if de- 
manded. The carnage was fearful, as I can personally 
testify to, having ridden over the battle-field while the 
action was still far from ended; indeed, at one time, I 
found myself quite surrounded by combatants. I had 
followed out of curiosity ; and though terribly exciting, 
I cannot say that it was an edifying sight. It was my 
first battle-field, but alas ! not the last I had to witness. 
Had every Damara present that day done his duty, 
not one Hottentot ought to have survived, as they 
might have been cut off to a man with the greatest 
ease. But, until the pursuit began, there were not cer- 
tainly three hundred actually engaged, and instead of 
pursuing the enemy in earnest, most of them fell to 
plundering ; and hundreds of Damaras might have been 
seen carrying off booty, or stripping the slain. It was 
not unusual to see a fellow hastily covered with the torn 
garments of some slaughtered foe, still reeking with 
gore. As it was, the Damaras had gained a complete 
victory, and they were justly proud of the exploit — the 
more remarkable as it was won under the most unfa- 
vorable circumstances. .Their spirit had been completely 
broken by years of slavery ; they were indifferently 
supplied with fire-arms, and many who did possess guns 



72 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

knew not the proper use of them ; ammunition failed 
to numbers almost at the commencement of the action ; 
they possessed no leader, no union of purpose ; and, as 
we have already seen, they had been taken by surprise. 

I never could correctly ascertain the number of 
slain ; but upward of one hundred and fifty Hottentots, 
including the chief, Christian Afrikaner, were counted 
by myself and my people within a few miles of Otjim- 
bingue, and the total number must have exceeded two 
hundred, to say nothing of those who escaped wounded. 
For days, nay, weeks after the fight, men were picked 
up dead and dying, having hidden themselves in cavi- 
ties of rocks, or in the dense bush which skirted the 
river on both sides, along which a running fight had 
been kept up for some time after the general flight and 
pursuit had commenced. The losses of the Damaras 
must also have been considerable ; I ascertained the 
names of fifty who it was said had been killed, and 
many were wounded more or less severely. But I mar- 
velled that the number was not greater, considering the 
deliberate firing on the part of the enemy, who were 
mostly all fair marksmen. 

Several of the Hottentots died game, and I could 
mention some curious scenes which occurred. Some 
Damaras who were one day out " looting," seeing a gun 
barrel partially protruding from a bush, one of the 
party went to -draw it out, when lo ! it exploded, killing 
the fellow on the spot. Another and another were 
shot before the men could recover from their consterna- 
tion and storm the place. When at last they did so, 
they found a man with both his legs shot off! The poor 
fellow, it seems, had during the nights managed to drag 



A COURAGEOUS HOTTENTOT. 73 

himself about in search of water and food. A few 
shells of snails, scattered about his place of concealment, 
testified to the means employed for eking out the mu- 
tilated wretch's miserable existence. Of course the 
Damaras at once put him out of his misery. 

The Hottentots were said to have always professed 
a certain respect for missionaries and their property, 
but if any such consideration really existed, it did not 
show itself during the aforesaid fight, for poor Mr. 
Kleinschmidt's house was made a regular target of: 
numerous bullets were lodged in the walls, and more 
than one penetrated to the interior. Fortunately the 
family had taken shelter in the back premises, where 
they were comparatively safe as long as the Hottentots 
were kept at bay. At one time during the fight the 
enemy were heard to shout to one another to throw 
fire on the thatch. I need hardly add that it proved a 
most anxious day to my esteemed and venerable friend, 
who was only temporarily residing at Otjimbingue, 
Rehoboth being his proper quarters. I regret to say 
that, having returned there with his family at a later 
period, he was exposed to even greater danger than 
those he had just passed through, and in consequence 
of the fearful privations and hardships then endured, 
added to mental anxiety, the poor man lost his life, to 
the universal regret of every acquaintance and friend ; 
even some of the Hottentots seeming to have been 
touched with regret, at his untimely death. 
4 



CHAPTER VI. 

Flight of the Namaquas — Alarming rumors — Frederick Green — Plan to 
surprise the Hottentot head-quarters — A treacherous European — 
Spoil taken from the Namaquas — Return of the victors to Otjim- 
bingue — Thrown into arrears — Attack of ophthalmia — Dangerous 
trust — Sad calamity — The cry of vengeance — Victoria Falls. 

THEIR late defeat had terribly scared the Hotten- 
tots, but those who were best acquainted with 
their revengeful and proud nature, well knew that they 
would sooner or later make renewed efforts to recover 
their lost ground. To be beaten by the Damaras, their 
dogs, as they called them, was a thing they could not 
understand, and which they could neither forget nor 
forgive. They admitted they had been terribly thrashed, 
but many unexpected causes, they said, had contrib- 
uted to this result. Thus, the Damaras had been 
secretly sheltered and abetted by Europeans, while they 
were openly assisted by the CErlams (people born or 
bred in the colony, or in a wider sense, simply brought 
up by white men), and who had from time to time 
become domiciled in Damaraland. The first of these 
insinuations was quite false, while, though the latter 
statement was correct, it scarcely justified the stress 
they laid upon it, as not more than half-a-dozen indi- 
viduals had assisted the Damaras. These assertions 
were simply made in order to hide their shame. 

The Namaquas, very soon after the events here 



ALARMING RUMORS. 75 

narrated, abandoned Schmelen's Hope, hitherto their 
head-quarters, as no longer tenable, and fled to Eikhams, 
formerly their chief residence. This place was better 
capable of defence, more distant from their enemies, 
and indeed, taken all in all, it was the finest place in 
the whole of Damaraland. 

Scarcely a day now passed without rumors that a 
commando of Hottentots was en route to attack Otjim- 
bingue ; and it was no longer doubted, or denied, that 
they intended to involve me in the general destruction 
contemplated. Accordingly, anxious as I really was 
to keep neutral, I made up my mind to fight them 
should they again appear in the place. But with the 
exception of myself, and servants, and my stanch and 
attached friend Frederick Green, all the Europeans kept 
aloof. And I regret to say that there were even some 
among them that would not have cared to see me 
ruined, if not destroyed. And yet, with but one or 
two exceptions, these were all dependent on me, not 
only for articles of exchange, but for their very bread. 
Indeed, many a tim-e have I stinted myself in order to 
supply their wants. I had no wish to see them actually 
engaged in war, but I did expect, under the circum- 
stances, to have had their sympathy at least. As it 
was, this was entirely with the Hottentots. I speak 
this advisedly, for among the booty captured in the 
recent fight, there were found several letters from many 
of these men, addressed to Christian Afrikaner, ex- 
pressing but too clearly their inimical feelings toward 
me. These letters are- still in my possession, and can 
be produced at any time to corroborate my statement. 

At last these repeated threats of the Hottentots 



76 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

became insupportable, and it was determined to attack 
the enemy before he could carry his own plans into 
execution. We were perfectly aware that they were in 
even greater terror of a surprise than the Damaras, and 
it was calculated that a blow directed at their head- 
quarters, if successful, would doubly intimidate them. 
A plan was accordingly made to surprise Eikhams ; and 
Mr. Green, having, by unanimous consent, been elected 
leader of the expedition, he in a few days set out at 
the head of a most respectable force, which, before it 
reached its destination, was said to have increased to 
fully 1500 men. But even if this could be proved cor- 
rect, not one-half of the number could have been relied 
on in the event of any serious resistance. The plans 
were devised and executed with all possible secrecy 
and expedition, and had it not been for a certain Euro- 
pean who rode express to give the Namaquas warning 
of our approach, they must have been surprised and 
consequently taken at great disadvantage. As it was, 
they had not only time for preparation, but had actually 
removed their camp to some distance. But they were 
promptly followed up, and at noon, a few days after- 
ward, my friend encountered them drawn up in battle- 
array, infantry and ox-riders being stationed in the 
centre, with a considerable body of horse on each flank. 
The Damaras at once made a dash at them, notwith- 
standing the exposed nature of the ground, the Nama- 
quas having extended themselves along a level ridge, 
up the bare sides of which it was absolutely necessary 
to advance. It was gallantly done, and after only wait- 
ing to exchange a volley or two, the Namaquas fled 
helter-skelter, the Damaras pursuing hotly. 



PLAN TO SURPRISE EIKHAMS. J7 

Mr. Green, with a small party, was in a short time 
accidentally separated from the main body of his men, 
and he assured me that it was fully two hours before 
he was able to discover the position of his followers. 
He was finally led to them by the sound of the firing, 
which had become desultory, and evidently extended 
over a great extent of country. It would seem that the 
Namaquas possessed more than one camp, for the 
Damaras stormed and captured several positions occu- 
pied by wagons. Upward of thirty of these were de- 
stroyed, only a couple being reserved for carrying the 
wounded, booty, etc. 

A running fight had been kept up for several hours, 
during which time the Namaquas had been chased 
eight or ten miles, and night was gathering its shadows 
over the fierce scene, when at last they came to bay, 
having taken refuge on a hill of a rather formidable 
nature. Large droves of cattle and sheep were observed 
near the summit, and several individuals greatly dis- 
tinguished themselves in attempting to carry off some 
of these, and in more than one instance they proved 
successful. Mr. Green himself felt sorely tempted to 
encamp at the foot of the hill, and recommence the 
fighting early next morning. But on more mature 
reflection, and remembering the peculiar and doubtful 
character of those whom he commanded, he deemed it 
more prudent to retire at once with the booty already 
secured, and the victory thus far gained. This was 
accordingly done, and the Damaras bivouacked that 
night at one of the chief wagon camps captured in the 
course of the fight. The retreat was continued on the 
following morning, in good order and without molesta- 



78 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

tion from the enemy, a solitary horseman merely show- 
ing himself occasionally at a respectful distance during 
that day. It is said, however, with what truth I can- 
not tell, that a small party of Damaras, greedier than 
the rest, who had remained behind for further feasting 
and plunder, were surprised in their " revels " and killed. 
But of those who had been actually engaged, or who 
retreated in time, only one or two were slain, while very 
few were wounded. What loss the Namaquas sustained 
was not well ascertained, but it may be presumed to 
have been trivial, since they never allowed any one to 
approach at all close to f'hem. Unfortunately some 
Namaqua women lost their lives in the general melee, 
but whether designedly or accidentally killed will pro- 
bably never be known. 

But if the killed were comparatively few, the booty 
was very great ; as is usual, however, in all savage war- 
fare, there was a great deal of waste. Fifty head of 
cattle were daily slaughtered for food for the army. 
The original capture, therefore, must have been immense. 
I, whom the captors requested to act as umpire in the 
division of the spoil, had some difficulty in satisfying 
the many hundred claimants that appeared for a share. 
But I did my best, nor did I reserve a single head for 
my own personal benefit, though I had suffered much 
indirectly. 

The return of the victors to Otjimbingue presented 
a most animated spectacle, and would have afforded a 
capital subject for the lively and clever pencil of my 
friend Baines. The Reverend Mr. Schroder, however, 
who happened to be present, did his best to reproduce 
the scene by means of the camera. Unfortunately his 



THROWN INTO ARREARS. 79 

negatives proved insufficient to bring out clearly the 
many characteristics of the barbaric scene and the por- 
traits of the principal leaders. 

For several preceding seasons the elephant-hunters, 
through a variety of causes, had been very unsuccessful 
in their efforts to obtain ivory. But their wants, so far 
from decreasing with their diminished good fortune, 
seemed rather on the increase, and they had drawn 
heavily on me for supplies. The consequence of this 
was that I also fell into considerable arrears with my 
supporters at the Cape. The only property available 
for immediate realization was my cattle, and of which I 
certainly (though it can hardly be said fortunately) pos- 
sessed a goodly number. But the danger of getting them 
safely to the Cape market was immense, nay, friend and 
foe pronounced it an impossibility ; the latter had been 
stung to madness by their losses and reverses, and cared 
but little whom they made to suffer, could they but 
revenge themselves in some way. Indeed, they had 
openly declared that they would make me pay for their 
ill-luck, should they have the chance of falling in with 
my cattle. Nevertheless I had no choice, for ruin and 
bankruptcy were the certain consequences were I unable 
to carry out my intentions. 

Mr. Green having kindly offered to undertake the 
dangerous trust, and knowing that I could pretty well 
rely on most of my servants, my resolution was taken 
to risk all. I was myself incapacitated from accom- 
panying the cattle, in consequence of a terrible attack 
of ophthalmia, which had for a long time quite blinded 
me, threatening to deprive me ultimately of sight alto- 
gether ! I was, moreover, anxious to remove my family 



SO NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

and the most valuable portion of my movable property 
to a place of safety, and had accordingly arranged to 
proceed to Walwich Bay as soon as my friend should 
have taken his departure, with a view of trying to obtain 
a vessel to convey us to the Cape, where I had appointed 
to meet my cattle, etc. But short-sighted man pro- 
poses, and God, in his infinite wisdom, disposes ; and 
never was the saying more truly verified than in the 
present case. I had reached the sea-shore in safety 
with my wife and family, a vessel had been secured, our 
effects shipped, and only a day remained before our 
embarkation, when, oh, horrors ! Green and Haybrittel 
made their sudden appearance. I was suffering most 
acutely, but though I could not see the former, I rec- 
ognized but too well his familiar voice and step. No 
words were needed to tell me the cause of his untimely 
presence, and I grasped his proffered hand, fervently 
exclaiming, " Thank God, you at least are safe ! Of 
course my cattle and other property are gone ; but tell 
me the worst in as few words as possible." 

" Alas, Andersson ! " my friend sorrowfully rejoined, 
" not only are your cattle and effects lost, but several 

of your people are killed, and I myself and H- here, 

escaped the general destruction by a miracle. We had 
just got nicely over what we considered the most dan- 
gerous part of the road, having arrived within an hour's 
ride on horseback of Rehoboth r and the chief Wilhelm 
Zwartbooi had received us most kindly, giving us a fine 
place to graze and rest the cattle on. We never dreamt 
of any immediate danger. But we had sadly miscalculated 
our safety, for on the following morning after our arrival, 
when a move had been decided on with a view of driv- 



DEATH OF JONATHAN. 8 1 

ing the cattle still nearer to the head-quarters of your 
friends, we were treacherously attacked by overwhelming 
numbers, just as the ' trek ' had got into a narrow part 
of the road, and in five minutes poor Jonathan, his wife, 
two children, woman servant, and several men were 

killed. N and H 's brother here at first made 

their escape, but were finally captured, and, for aught 
we know, may be dead by this time. As for myself and 
H , we had ridden somewhat in advance, our pres- 
ence at Rehoboth having been requested, with a view 
of consulting us about some important news just 
received, concerning ourselves and our kind host's safety. 
And thus, my dear Andersson, were we mercifully pre- 
served. But we were far from safe, as you will pres- 
ently hear. 

" It appears that the Hottentots had receive^ notice 
of our progress by one, if not more, of our soi-disant 
European 'friends — out upon the traitors! — and had 
thus been enabled to take steps for our destruction. We 
had been surrounded, unobserved, during the early part 
of the night preceding the eventful morning in ques- 
tion ; they had allowed myself and H to pass un- 
molested, not from any good-will toward us, but proba- 
bly out of sheer cowardice, well knowing that we would 
sell our lives dearly in defence of our property (Green 

and H had a direct interest in the cattle), if not, 

perhaps frustrate their villainous designs. Poor Jona- 
than ! he died as he had lived — a brave man ; but there 
was not the slightest chance given him for preserving 
his life, for after the terrible volley poured in upon him 
and his poor inoffensive family, he had only just time to 
fire his rifle once, when he received a bullet in the neck, 



82 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

causing- him to fall heavily forward. ' God help you, 
wife ; I can do no more for you ! ' was all that he could 
say, and then expired. We heard this and many other 
details of the sad scene from Netty, the Damara woman 
who accompanied Jonathan's family, and who was 
brought to the station in the course of the day in a 
dying state, from a wound in the breast. 

" It is my firm conviction," my friend continued, 
" that the cattle, etc., might have been retaken had 
our friends, the Rehobothians, at once accompanied me 
in pursuit of the marauders, as I requested. At the 
same time it is impossible to blame them much for 
their hesitation, as the events that quickly followed will 
show. The news received, about which we had been 
called to Rehoboth, amounted to this; a second, if not 
a third, commando, headed by Henric Sex or ' Nanile,' 
the greatest rogue of all the rogues in this land of 
scoundrelism, had been seen in the neighborhood, and 
it was ascertained beyond a doubt that the villains who 
had attacked us were to join this party or parties in a 
combined movement against the station itself, not only 
because the people had tried to befriend me and the 
Damara cause in general, but on the score of private 
grievances. And the inhabitants had hardly time to 
make a few hurried preparations for defence when the 
combined force appeared, fully 700 hundred strong, 
and at once surrounded the place within rifle range. 
The greater portion of the enemy were mounted, and 
all well-armed, and against this truly formidable host, 
the Rehobothians could hardly oppose one hundred 
men, not one half of whom, moreover, were efficiently 
armed. But notwithstanding these disadvantages our 



A CRUSHING BLOW. 83 

friends showed a determined front, and steadily refused 
to listen to the demands of the enemy, who ordered the 
Rehobothians to give up instantly myself and any other 
white man to whom they might have afforded protec- 
tion, as also to abandon for once and forever the Da- 
mara cause. But though our stanch friends steadily 
refused to listen to such conditions, they knew they 
they were in reality incompetent to give us the neces- 
sary protection, should the place be carried by general 
assault, and of which there really seemed to be every 
probability. Of course there was nothing for us to do 
but to decamp. H 's brother and N unfortu- 
nately lurched and dodged so long about the neighbor- 
hood that they were ultimately captured, and heaven 
only knows whether they are dead or alive by this 

time ; poor fellows ! As for myself and H , we were 

considerately furnished with horses and guides, and by 
these means we have succeeded in arriving here in 
safety ; but we are sadly knocked about, what with 
frightful roads, constant travel, little or no clothing, 
and still less food. And now what's to be done, An- 
dersson ? I am quite ready for anything and every 
thing. Point but the way to enable us to revenge 
ourselves upon our treacherous foe ! " 

Grasping my friend's hand once more, and with my 
teeth hard set, I exclaimed, " There is but one thing to 
do, we must punish the scoundrels; they made a sad 
mistake in allowing you and me to escape, as they will 
soon know to their cost. Go back to see what the 
Damaras will do for us. • I have indirectly been the 
means of attaining for them their liberty; if there be a 
spark of gratitude in them they will now stand by us 



84 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

in our hour of need ; go and collect such as are willing 
to act with us, and I will follow as soon as my eyesight 
is a little improved." 

Thus was crushed at one fell blow all hopes of hap- 
piness and prosperity! Many a man, I venture to say, 
far more determined than myself, might have felt his 
spirit cowed, and pursued a less bold course than that 
which I adopted. Some friends (?) indeed, were good 
enough to hint that I ought to have rested content with 
my losses, and that I should only bring additional 
troubles and calamities on my head by any further 
movements in this sad affair. But I neither could nor 
would argue thus. I could not conscientiously consider 
the lost property as my own, so long as I still remained 
a debtor. But even could I have afforded the loss — and 
it was not a trifle, amounting, as it did, at the lowest 
estimate to upward of ^3,000, there being 1,600 head 
of large horned cattle alone — would it have been fair to 
have left the fate of my poor murdered people unpun- 
ished ? Would not those very friends have been fore- 
most in branding my conduct as pusillanimous and 
cowardly had I not tried to strike one blow for the 
dead ? God forbid that I should have ever been such 
a coward ! Even had I been fully aware of the terrible 
consequences of the step I was about to take — and 
maybe I was — I would still have acted as I did. Even 
my loving wife felt the necessity of the act, terrible as 
the alternative must have appeared to her at this criti- 
cal juncture, when everything was prepared for our 
departure from a land and a people who had combined 
to prove so destructive to our peace and our prosperity. 
Without a murmur, without one word of complaint, she 



MR. THOMAS BAINES. 85 

sanctioned, by her quiet submission to fate, my irrev- 
ocable decision, and thus I was spared the painful 
necessity of acting in opposition to her will. God, it 
is true, has said : " Vengeance is mine! " But I think 
there are and must be occasions when we may be 
allowed to take it into our own hands, and if so, surely 
mine was one. 

But before closing this chapter, I must not omit to 
mention that Mr. Thomas Baines, the artist, was stay- 
ing with me at this period, for the purpose of illustrat- 
ing certain birds, etc., intended for a work on Natural 
History that I was then preparing for the press. This 
gentleman was the companion of Livingstone for a 
time, and subsequently with Mr. James Chapman. By 
the published narrative of the latter, the reader is prob- 
ably aware that they had to some extent failed in their 
attempt at exploring the famous Zambezi river; but, 
as a set-off, they had visited the glorious and wonderful 
"Victoria Falls," an event enough to satisfy any ordi- 
nary ambition. Mr. Baines kindly presented me and 
my wife with one of his pictures, representing one of 
the most charming views of these stupendous Falls — 
said to far exceed in grandeur and general interest those 
of Niagara ! And I secured a few more at a moderate 
price. I also induced my friend to paint a picture on 
the same subject for the King of Sweden, who, I knew, 
was a lover of the art, and no mean artist himself, and 
it would perhaps afford me the opportunity in this 
humble manner of showing my duty and respect to my 
sovereign, to whom I was'personally known, and whose 
royal father had thought me worthy of a gold medal 
for meritorious services in the field of exploration and 



86 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

discovery. His Majesty graciously accepted the gift, 
acknowledging it by a letter in his own hand, and the 
picture now adorns the chambers of the Royal Palace 
at Stockholm, so famed for its architectural grandeur. 
Thus I had the double pleasure of having been able to 
please my sovereign and serve my friend's interest by 
exhibiting one of his efforts in so conspicuous and hon- 
orable a position. Mr. Baines afterward published a 
series of chromo-lithographic views of the Victoria Falls, 
executed in the most finished style. Bnt not content 
with serving me with his pencil, he spontaneously 
offered to accompany me to Otjimbingue, and to take 
charge of the place during my absence against the 
Namaquas, and to defend it if necessary. He had 
seen something of military movements during one of 
the Caffre wars. This experience and his various and 
versatile talents peculiarly fitted him for the task ; and 
I mention this disinterested act of my friend with more 
pleasure as, with very few exceptions, I had been 
abandoned to my fate by the white population of Da- 
maraland. With some this had, perhaps, been an act 
of necessity, but with others it arose from indifference 
or cowardice, while many kept aloof out of sheer 
enmity. 



CHAPTER VII. 

An Irish Munchausen — Rehoboth — Preparations for our expedition 
against the Nam aquas — Wilhelm Zwartbooi — Conflicting accounts 
of the position of the enemy — Last acts before the fight — A disap- 
pointment — Severe example — Daring act committed by Hotten- 
tots — Successful flank inovement — Severely wounded — Precarious 
position. 

NEARLY three weeks had now elapsed since my 
wife took her departure for the Cape, and my eye- 
sight was slowly but steadily improving ; but no news 
had yet reached me of Mr. Green. It was, therefore, 
with considerable anxiety that I awaited the result of 
his mission ; first, because he had to pass through a 
Namaqua tribe under Jacobus Boyce, who, though they 
professed friendship for us, were not altogether to be 
trusted, as their chief was known to be exasperated in 
consequence of the untimely death of his daughter, the 
wife of Jan Jonker, whom I have spoken of as having 
been unfortunately killed in the engagement headed by 
Mr. Green ; secondly, the Damaras might refuse to lis- 
ten to his representations, or at least throw obstacles in 
his way. But at last a letter arrived, informing me of 
his safe arrival at Otjimbingue, and of the readiness of 
the Damaras to give me the necessary assistance, urg- 
ing me at the same time -to make all possible haste, as 
things did not progress very briskly. Thus far well. 
A day sufficed to make the needful arrangements, 



88 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

and I and Mr. Baines set out for Otjimbingue, which 
we reached after a quick and safe journey. And here 
an unexpected pleasure awaited me; for not only had 

B , the missing white man, turned up safe and 

sound, but H 's brother and N had been 

restored to liberty ; and be it said to the honor of these 
men, they were ready once more to risk their lives in 
my service. This time, perhaps, their determination, 
as was natural, was spiced with a strong feeling of 
revenge ; for it appears that they had suffered dread- 
fully during their captivity, being not only exposed to 
great indignities, but made to suffer the very extremes 
of hunger, thirst, and cold. Thus, when caught, they 
had been stripped of all their clothes, except their shirt 
and trousers, and, thus exposed, had been made to 
walk bare-footed and bare-headed in a broiling sun ; at 
night — and the weather was piercingly cold — sleeping 
without any covering. And, to cap all this misery, 
their captors were in the habit of telling them to pre- 
pare for death, as their execution had been decided on, 
and could no longer be delayed. It may well be imag- 
ined what sort of life the poor fellows led in conse- 
quence. The only man who showed any approach to 
compassion for their forlorn condition, was the chief 
himself, and it was to him they ultimately owed their 
liberty, though it cannot be said to have been a disin- 
terested action, since he demanded a considerable ran- 
som for the privilege. 

As for B •, according to his own account, his ad- 
ventures by the way had been truly marvellous, prov- 
ing him a very Goliatlr — or rather a David — for num- 
bers of valiant men fell before his ma^ic strength. And 



JOINED BY A NUMEROUS FORCE. 89 

the picture he drew of the hunger, thirst, and other 
privations that he had suffered, and of the unconquera- 
ble spirit with which he supported them, was enough 
to have drawn tears of compassion from the eyes of his 
listeners, only they did not altogether believe him, most 
unkindly hinting that he claimed some relationship to 
Munchausen of immortal fame. In short, he was a 
highly imaginative native of the Emerald Isle. 

I stayed but one day ; and having appointed a ren- 
dezvous for the meeting of the men who were to join 
me, I moved on to it. After a delay here of three days, 
I found myself at the head of 2,000 men, a number 
which ultimately swelled to 3,000 — a force which, if 
truly effective, would have enabled me to pass quickly 
from one end of Great Namaqualand to the other, with- 
out much difficulty. But, alas ! there were really com- 
paratively few fighting men; the greater part was a 
mere rabble, come solely for the purpose of rapine and 
plunder, at once the curses and the vultures of an 
army. Moreover, we mustered only about five hundred 
guns, half of which were utterly useless, many actually 
wanting a cock, a pan, a mainspring, or other equally 
important part. Nevertheless, there is something 
cheering in numbers, especially when contending with 
a savage and undisciplined enemy, whom they serve to 
intimidate. 

I therefore looked forward with some confidence to 
a successful issue of the expedition, the more so as I 
expected a strong reinforcement from Wilhelm Zwart- 
booi's tribe, who had' expressly requested to be 
allowed to join us in any attempt to be made against 
the common enemy. The Damaras, indeed, grumbled 



90 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

at this, deeming themselves quite strong enough to 
punish the hostile tribe ; moreover, urging that it 
would cause too much delay to wait for them, and 
enable the enemy both to prepare against surprise and 
for defence. But I had made up my mind that our 
allies should share alike with us success or defeat, as the 
case might turn out, and thus matters were allowed to 
take their course. 

After about a week's journeying we found ourselves 
in the neighborhood of Rehoboth, but though I had 
sent more than one express to inform our friends of our 
approach, no such tidings had reached them, and the 
very first intimation they had of us, was from my own 
man whom I had now despatched on horseback. 
Nevertheless, having themselves been kept in a kind of 
siege, as it were — that is, expecting such an event 
daily — they were soon ready, and being supplied with 
such ammunition as I could spare, they joined my 
standard about fifty strong. The Namaquas are in 
general bad soldiers, except when brought to bay behind 
stone walls, when, like the Turks, nothing short of a 
bayonet or assegai charge will dislodge them. And 
knowing that an enemy would never attempt to meet 
us in^an open field, but would take refuge in rocks and 
precipices, I hailed the addition to our party with con- 
siderable satisfaction. 

No one exactly knew the whereabouts of the Nama- 
quas, nor could we obtain any reliable information on 
the subject. Some said we should find them'one or two 
days' journey off at the utmost, while others doubled, 
and even trebled the distance. It was of course 
very difficult to act under such conflicting accounts, 



THE CRITICAL MOMENT. 9 1 

and the utmost caution was necessary in so steering 
our course as to avoid being ourselves entrapped. 
But, at last, after many a false alarm, and one 
slight skirmish, in which several of the enemy were 
killed, and more than one of our party had narrow 
escapes, one man being shot through the arm and 
shoulder of his jacket, and after we had advanced much 
farther that was anticipated, we made sure of having 
discovered the enemy's stronghold. Some Berg Da- 
maras whom we had captured, declared that we should 
find them in a range of hills no great way off, and which 
we could distinctly see from our camp. 

All was now intense eagerness. We carefully con- 
cealed ourselves in an extensive hollow during the day, 
while several scouts were sent during the following night 
to reconnoitre the supposed enemy's position. Our 
object was considerably facilitated by a conspicuous 
hill lying half way, and commanding a full view of the 
aforesaid range. The spies fully corroborated the story 
of the Berg Damaras, and preparations were quietly 
made for a determined assault on the ensuing night. 

I felt the critical moment had now arrived, and made 
all the dispositions that I thought necessary when 
about to engage a numerous, determined, and probably 
strongly fortified enemy, at a time when my hours on 
earth might be numbered. My last act, as may well 
be supposed, was a long and affectionate letter to my 
poor wife, expressing my deep regret at the destitute 
circumstances in which I must unavoidably leave hen 
but at the same time relying implicitly on an all-mer- 
ciful Providence, who had thus far so marvellously pre- 
served me, and who was never known to abandon those 



92 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

who placed their faith and trust in His mercy and im- 
measurable love. "Tell my poor father," I concluded, 
" that if I fall in to-morrow's fight, I shall die as a Chris- 
tian and a soldier." 

As soon as darkness had sufficiently set in, so as to 
hide our operations, a forward movement was made, 
keeping the hill above-mentioned well between us and 
the supposed whereabouts of the enemy. Having 
reached its base, we halted to make the final prepara- 
tions, and to ascertain that they had not decamped, an 
event we had greatly dreaded throughout our toilsome 
and cautious march. Judging from the fires seen from 
this point on the opposite range, the enemy was in- 
trenched in three great parties, a considerable way up 
the face of the rock. To meet the emergency, I divided 
my men into as many divisions, appointing Mr. Green 
to that destined for the attack on the left, placing Hay- 
brittel with a second on my right, while I myself led 
the centre in person against what appeared to be the 
largest of their strongholds. Our plan was to make the 
attack at break of day, but, the intervening distance 
not being very great, the final movement was delayed 
till about three o'clock in the morning, when I ordered 
a simultaneous advance of all the divisions, the distance 
that each had to go being nearly the same. I had the 
greatest difficulty in restraining my men from getting 
ahead too quickly, they seemed so eager for the pend- 
ing fray. Now I was at the left wing, then on the 
right, and presently back to the centre, begging and 
commanding alternately. It was a cold moonlit night, 
and as objects were discernible a long way off, I feared 
every moment to see our movements betrayed. Indeed, 



FAIRLY GULLED. 93 

I had no doubt about it, as the fires were suddenly 
stirred into a blaze, while the men were heard calling 
to one another, having evidently been aroused by the 
violent barking of the dogs. We were now at the foot 
of the hill, and so near as to be able to distinguish 
every word that was spoken. Ordering the men to lie 
down, I listened eagerly for further signs to determine 
my movements, when, after awhile, I was glad to find 
all becoming once more quiet. As there was no longer 
any time to be lost, we rose and began the ascent, which 
in a very short time became exceedingly steep and 
laborious, considerably decreasing the eagerness of my 
followers. The goal, however, was reached without any 
accident or molestation just as the first streak of dawn 
appeared, though from the shadows thrown by the hill, 
objects could be discerned but dimly. I was the first man 
to leap into the werft, where, to my disgust, instead 
of a numerous enemy, I found only some poor Berg 
Damaras. I paused in sheer astonishment, but just at 
this moment heavy firing began on my right, and feel- 
ing certain that my friends had been more fortunate, 
and in the hope of being able to render them assistance, 
as also with a view of cutting off the enemy, I contin- 
ued the ascent, shouting to the men to follow ; but with 
a very few exceptions, they all remained behind to 
plunder the wretched abodes of the flying inhabitants. 
In five minutes every hut was in a blaze, and a wild but 
harassing sight presented itself to my view from my 
elevated position. Never wasenterprise better planned, 
and in the beginning so' successfully executed, followed 
by such an indifferent result. We had been fairly 
gulled, and I felt immeasurably disgusted accordingly. 



94 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

But I will pass quickly over what followed. Suffice 
it to say that we captured a large number of women 
and children (Berg Damaras), some sheep and goats, and 
a few head of cattle. I did so out of compassion for the 
poor creatures, well knowing the merciless character of 
my followers. In about an hour or so I was joined 
by the right division, who had been even less success- 
ful than ourselves. As for Mr. Green and his party, 
they had never encountered an enemy nor. captured 
any booty. While discussing what further to do, one 
of the Rehobothians brought word that the Afrikaners 
were on a neighboring hill, and had actually dared us 
to the attack. After our many and severe disappoint- 
ments we were unwilling to lend a too ready ear to his 
tale, and I exclaimed, " If true, it is the best news we 
have had yet ! " As our way lay in the direction indi- 
cated, we leisurely followed the man, and did find sev- 
eral large werfts, but all were deserted, a native appear- 
ing only here and there in the distance, timidly, peep- 
ing forth from behind some rock. In one place, how- 
ever, we met with some success, having captured about 
seventy or eighty head of cattle, and nine hundred or a 
thousand sheep and goats, a most opportune supply to 
our exhausted larder. Indeed, we had been without 
any animal food for some days, and had been chiefly 
subsisting on " veldt cost," i. e., on such roots as the 
soil yielcjed. 

By this time the day was far advanced, and meeting 
with water we encamped for the night, hoping that on 
the morrow we should have a nearer acquaintance with 
the enemy, of whom we were more than ever determined 
to give a good account. At this time I found it neces- 



SEVERE EXAMPLE. 95 

sary to shoot a man who had in the most reckless 
and daring manner set my commands at defiance. I 
had warned the Damaras, at the very outset of the ex- 
pedition, that I would suffer no disregard of my author- 
ity, having been elected commander by their full and 
free consent. This severe example had a salutary 
effect on the minds of my cut-throat followers. 

While busy making the camp snug and safe for the 
night, the cry was suddenly raised, " The Hottentots! 
the Hottentots ! " and sure enough a few horsemen 
were observed on the rising ground above us, less than 
half a mile off. The next moment they were seen to 
dismount and deliberately take aim at some object, 
which we too surely conjectured to be some unfortu- 
nate Damara, who, contrary to my orders and warnings, 
had strayed thus far from the camp in search of food. 
It was a daring act to do in the face of such numbers, 
and though they were chased away faster than they 
came, we had the mortification to know that we had 
been bearded on our own threshold by a mere handful 
of men. Deep and long were the imprecations uttered, 
and the vengeance vowed against the enemy by the 
Damaras, though for my part I could not help admiring 
the daring and hardihood of the fellows. And no one 
but Jan Jonker himself, I felt sure, could have per- 
formed so bold and rash an act. 

I retired that night to rest, with considerable anxiety 
for the morrow. We could no longer doubt that we 
were in the immediate neighborhood of the enemy, and 
that so far from fleeing from us, they were prepared to 
give us battle. I was very poorly, and had been so 
from the commencement of our march ; for, in addition 



g6 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

to weakness of the eyes, I had had more than one 
attack of fever, and, latterly, an old, troublesome enemy, 
the rheumatism, had returned with some severity. 
Indeed, my right leg was so much affected by it, that I 
could hardly sit a horse. But I dared not show any 
weakness to my followers, as it was absolutely necessary 
to have nothing but cheerful looks and a confident 
aspect before them. Oh, how often is it thus in life — 
a smiling face, with an ailing body, and a bruised spirit 
beneath the surface ! 

On the following morning we were early astir, and 
although still uncertain of the enemy's exact where- 
abouts, we had a shrewd suspicion that they were to be 
found located in a grim-looking rock a few miles ahead 
of us. We moved accordingly in something like bat- 
tle-array, and as we proceeded, fresh cattle and sheep 
tracks became abundant ; but we had actually reached 
the base of the hill in question, which we now clearly 
saw was of great extent and of the most formidable 
character, without observing anything to indicate the 
presence of a large body of men. But just at this junc- 
ture, the advanced scouts waved their hands as a sign 
for us to hurry on, and putting spurs to my horse, I 
galloped ahead, followed by about a dozen horsemen, 
when lo ! less than half a mile ahead of us, and in full 
retreat, were a number of horsemen — probably the 
identical ones who had shown themselves so boldly on 
the night before ! We chased them at the top of our 
speed, and so intent were we on the pursuit that we 
should probably have rushed upon our own destruction 
in a few minutes more, had not, fortunately, one of the 
horsemen called out, " Look, there are people on the 



IN SEARCH OF THE ENEMY. 97 

hill, we are going too far ! " We halted accordingly, 
and now found ourselves on the opposite side of the 
hill to which we had advanced, and which here pre- 
sented an equally steep ascent. I saw at a glance, that 
if the enemy were really ensconced among its passes 
and precipices — and I could not well doubt that such 
was the case — we should have tough work to dislodge 
them. For the first time I- began to entertain some 
doubts of the success of our enterprise, but it was too 
late to think of this, and I felt certain that, were time 
given to the Damaras to fully realize the extent of our 
peril, we must utterly fail. 

Hastily scanning the face of the mountain, there- 
fore, I soon perceived that the only tolerably accessible 
point was from about half-way between where we were 
now stationed, and the side that we had originally 
approached from, and I determined to make the first 
attack here. Seeing the Damaras begin to come up in 
large numbers, I instructed Green to choose two of the 
most trustworthy of the leaders and their men, and 
then I gave the word to storm ; and right gallantly it 
was done. Being quickly joined by others as they were 
coming on, I had the satisfaction shortly to see the hill 
side swarming with dusky warriors. This occupied 
hardly ten minutes, and shots began to be rapidly 
exchanged. Feeling satisfied that this flank movement 
was a success, my next step was to order the Rehoboth- 
ians, and a strong body of Damaras to follow me. My 
plan was to keep on a course parallel to the mountain, 
with a view of trying to draw out the enemy's strength 
and position, and to draw off their attention in a meas- 
ure from the storming party, and finally to find an 
5 



98 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

accessible point for attack full in front. But from some 
misconception, or other cause, my orders, in this 
instance, were not carried out equally satisfactorily, 
and the consequence was that, after having proceeded 
for some distance, I found only the friendly Namaquas, 
Green, and a few others following me, and most of these 
even were some way behind. I was making for a gap 
or ravine in the mountain, seen about midway (and in 
which the horsemen had sought refuge), where I ob- 
served a body of men moving about in apparent hurry 
and confusion. I had thus, somewhat incautiously, 
approached to within one hundred and fifty paces of 
the rocks. Indeed, I was unconsciously getting right 
into the lion's mouth, as it were, and had the enemy 
been less eager — and perhaps less frightened too — they 
might have annihilated us to a man, by allowing us 
quietly to pursue our course. But fortunately just at 
this time they opened fire, and, as it would almost 
appear from the result that followed, on me alone, for 
not another man was hurt. It was an awkward situa- 
tion, the whole face of the hill for full a quarter of a 
mile seemed to present one vivid streak of fire, for 
nearly at the same moment there flashed forth from 
fully five hundred guns and rifles a perfect hailstorm 
of bullets, which made me, strange as it perhaps sounds 
to the reader, exclaim, " By Heavens ! balls are here as 
plentiful as blackberries are in my own native forests." 
And what was more strange, I was unhurt ! But ob- 
serving my unsupported condition, I was turning to 
seek some shelter from this unpleasant " hail " storm, 
when a second volley was poured upon me, and this 
time with more precision ; for I was simultaneously 



AWKWARD SITUATION. 99 

struck by five balls — one grazing my left arm and 
elbow, a second carrying off the knuckle of the pointer 
finger on the right hand, a third dinting the stock of 
the rifle just under the little finger, a fourth carrying 
off the heel of one of my boots, while the fifth struck 
the right leg a little below the knee, laying me at once 
prostrate. 

I experienced a singular sensation when I thus 
found myself a poor, useless cripple — if life itself w r as 
not at stake. It was not fear, for as yet nothing of that 
kind had fortunately troubled me, but the sense of 
indescribable oppression and faintness about the heart, 
as if all the joys and pleasures of this world were for- 
ever shut out from my existence. I was conscious that 
a smile once crossed my features, not one of pleasure, 
certainly, but that melancholy smile that may be seen 
to flit across a human face when a friend is trying to 
comfort another under the weight of heavy misfortune, 
but who, though grateful for the sympathy, finds human 
comfort of no avail. Bowing my head for a moment 
against the ground, I sighed forth, " And thus, Oh 
God! ends my existence — far from those I hold dear ; 
but Thy will be done." I felt much calmer and more 
resigned after breathing this short prayer, and was 
looking up to ascertain what my followers were about, 
when I caught a glimpse of the Rehobothians, making 
a dash in a stooping position for the rocks, which they 
must have reached in safety. Turning next to the 
mountains, I could only perceive one confused mass of 
combatants, not charging and retreating openly, but 
executing all their movements in a stealthy hide-and- 
seek manner. The place was admirably adapted for 



100 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

this kind of warfare, the face of the entire mountain 
being covered by huge bowlders, each capable of shel- 
tering a dozen men or more. 

The firing had now become general, and was very 
severe. At the lowest estimate, full twelve hundred small 
arms were then every two or three minutes belching forth 
smoke and fire, the rocks constantly echoing the reports. 
Again and again the cowardly villains poured volley 
after volley upon my devoted body as I was lying help- 
lessly exposed to their fury ; for I had not succeeded in 
reaching any shelter before I was struck down. Once, 
indeed, I attempted to drag myself to a bush about fifty 
paces off, but found advance or retreat alike impossible. 
The only movement I was capable of was to roll par- 
tially over on my back, and it became quite clear to 
me that both the bones of the leg must be shattered, 
for, when turning on my back, the foot refused to fol- 
low, in fact, remained on the ground at a right angle to 
the leg. There can be little doubt that I had been 
recognized by the enemy, who were determined to 
afford me no chance of life, and it may hardly be cred- 
ited, but nevertheless it is a fact, that they kept " pelt- 
ing " me incessantly with bullets for upward of an hour. 
Consequently, if there was one bullet that day directed 
against me, there must have been many scores, and the 
only marvel is that I was not riddled with the shot. 

And now a new danger threatened me. Stray 
bodies of Damaras would from time to time take up 
a position at my back, but at such a respectful distance 
that, so far from their missiles doing any harm to the 
enemy, they would fall far short, in fact, were more 
likely to hit me where I lay ; and hundreds of bullets, 



PELTED WITH BULLETS. 101 

fired by heaven knows whom, did actually strike the 
ground all around me, and may, for aught I know, have 
occasionally grazed my body, or clothing at least. Once 
a ball struck right under my forehead, as I was resting 
it momentarily on the ground, and for some seconds I 
verily believed myself mortally hit, for I felt a difficulty 
in breathing, and a gurgling sensation in my throat as 
if choking from a flow of blood, but it arose only from 
the abundance of dirt and dust raised by the violence 
of the shot. It was high time, however, to try to hide 
my head at least, which I partly succeeded in doing at 
the cost of much pain and labor, having scratched a hole 
with my hands in the sun-baked soil. Had my wound 
been less dangerous and my position less precarious, it 
would have afforded me some amusement to listen to 
the various sounds produced by the bullets, as they 
sped thick and fast around me, for there was the spent 
ball, the musket ball, the rifle ball, and a variety of 
other balls, to which no particular place can be assigned 
■ — all with their own peculiar sounds. 

But the enemy was at last compelled to desist, hav- 
ing by this time got enough to do in defending them- 
selves, and I was quietly and resignedly contemplating 
the fierce scene, for, with the exception of the back of 
the ravine, I commanded a complete view of the whole 
face of the mountain, where some of the most deter- 
mined resistance was met with. 

Happening to glance sideways, I perceived, to my 
consternation, a small party of the enemy, who, coming 
from the mountain on my left, on horseback, passed 
round at my back, and having arrived within about 
one hundred and fifty paces, faced full round upon me. 



102 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Hitherto I had not faltered, but I honestly confess that 
I now experienced a feeling amounting to fear. " Ah, 
no ! " I ejaculated loudly, "a thousand times rather 
death than fall alive into your hands ! it would be too 
horrible a fate ! " With that I rolled on my back 
quietly, and resting the rifle on my left leg, which I 
partly raised for the purpose, I took a deliberate aim 
at the breast of the foremost foe. Thus posted, I felt 
sure of being able to despatch at least two of my op- 
ponents, while my revolver would always give me a 
good chance at closer quarters, should they venture to 
advance. The moments that followed were full of 
agony, for it seemed as if they were consulting as to 
the best way of getting at me. But to my inexpressi- 
ble relief, after thus remaining fully five minutes, they 
turned and rode off. Hardly were they out of sight, 
when another troop passed me even closer, and a third 
time was I put to torturing suspense, with a similar 
result. It is quite impossible that they should not 
have seen me, and the only explanation that now or 
then occurred to me of their leaving me unmolested, is, 
that they probably thought me dead or dying, and that 
they were afraid to approach closely, for fear of ex- 
posing themselves to the danger of being fired at by 
my followers on the mountain, who by this time were 
occupying the very fortifications originally held by 
the enemy. 

The battle had now raged for several hours, and I 
watched with intense anxiety for the final issue ; for 
though it was evident that the Damaras, and our allies, 
the Rehobothians, had to a certain extent gained the 
day, the enemy was still far from conquered, and was 



MOMENTS OF AGONY. IO3 

hanging, as it were, in dense masses on the brow 
of the hill to the left of me, and close to the ravine 
alluded to ; and I saw clearly that, unless attacked from 
above and in flank, they might succeed in holding their 
ground, and possibly turn the tables against us. If 
Green, poor fellow, was but alive and unhurt, though 
the chance was but small, I reasoned all might yet be 
well, for he could not help seeing the necessity of such 
a step, only I was afraid that the Damaras, if once in 
possession of the booty, would not support him suffi- 
ciently. 

What with loss of blood, my cramped position, and 
a scorching sun overhead, I was getting rapidly ex- 
hausted, and more than once I thought I must faint ; 
upward of six hours having elapsed since I was first 
laid prostrate. A drink of water would have been of 
priceless value to me, but only once, from the time I 
was struck down to near the close of this day's trying 
scenes, a human being came sufficiently within sight and 
hearing to enable me make my wants and situation 
known. And when at least half-a-dozen Damaras did 
appear, no entreaties or command would make them 
stay for one single moment, or render me the slightest 
help. The cowards ! though more than equal in num- 
bers, they were flying like timid deer before one of the 
party of horsemen above alluded to, and thus I was 
mercilessly abandoned to my fate by friend and foe. 
Truly my situation was a painful one, and few would 
have blamed me, perhaps, had I given way to despair. 
Thank God ! I did not. • And ere long such a decided 
change took place in our prospects, that all apprehen- 
sion of further immediate danger was past. 



104 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

A slight curl of smoke was now seen issuing, near 
the summit of the mountain, from one of the ravines 
overlooking the enemy, and the next moment . there 
was an explosion, rapidly followed by others. I well 
knew that none but friends could be there, and so well 
had I calculated the result of such a manoeuvre that on' 
the very first discharge I unhesitatingly gave vent to 
my pent-up feelings in the exclamation, " Thank God ! 
the victory is at last complete ! complete ! " And so 
it proved ; for in a few moments the enemy were heard 
to call out, " We are getting surrounded ! " And the 
cry among them then was something equivalent to 
"The devil take the hindmost!" In short, they 
rushed helter-skelter down the steep sides of their late 
stronghold, and in five minutes more were seen dispers- 
ing wildly over the open country. 

It was now in the power of the Damaras to have 
annihilated the enemy almost to a man ; for had an 
assegai charge been made by them at the moment the 
Namaquas took to the flat, the matter would have been 
settled forever. But to my utter disgust, not a soul 
bestirred himself to intercept their flight, and they were 
allowed to depart peaceably ! But so it is invariably 
in all savage warfare. Honor, safety, and all that a 
European would hold dear on such an occasion, is at 
once sacrificed for plunder and rapine, accompanied by 
the wildest exultation and disorder. 

A few moments more and I was surrounded by all 
my friends, not one familiar face being missed, and my 
heart was moved with deep gratitude to, the Almighty 
for the mercies vouchsafed to us during this trying day, 
and I confess it, I wept like a child. But seeing the 



RETREAT OF THE ENEMY. I05 

mournful looks of my sorrowing companions, I dashed 
the tears from my eyes, and smiling brightly on them, 
remarked : " Oh, never mind me ; I dare say I shall 
soon be all right ; " how my lips belied my heart ! 
" Now, like good fellows, get me some conveyance, and 
have me removed to a place of safety, where I can rest, 
for I am well-nigh exhausted." * 

* I can quite imagine that the military reader, especially if he him- 
self has taken part in blood and carnage, will smile at Andersson's 
description of this fight, as well as at the minute details he has given us 
of his feelings and sufferings when prostrated by a very severe wound, and 
for a time, as it would seem, serving as a target for the enemy ; but to 
myself these details are highly interesting, as they may also be to others, 
for though every poor fellow that is laid low on the battle-field must in a 
lesser or greater degree experience the same sensations, yet I do not 
remember any one having recorded them. — Ed. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



After the battle. — Immense capture of sheep and cattle — Folly and inca- 
pacity of the Damaras — The Rehobothians — Rev. Mr. Kleinschmidt 
— Arrival at Barmen missionary station — Rev. Mr. Hahn — Suffer- 
ings from my wound — Rev. Mr. Kleinschmidt's change of station — 
The Rehobothians attacked by the Namaquas — Sufferings of the 
unfortunate tribe. 



AS may be well imagined, sleep did not much court 
my pillow during the night that followed on the 
sanguinary scene related in the last chapter. Sleep, 
indeed, would have been out of the question ; for even 
had my wound been less severe than it was — cause 
enough to keep me awake — I should have got no rest, 
for the Damaras kept up the wildest revelry through- 
out this trying night, quarrelling and shouting vocifer- 
ously, and expressing their exultation by frequent dis- 
charges of musketry. My couch had been spread at 
the very foot of the rock that had witnessed so much 
strife, while my followers were camping or nestling on 
its sides wherever a sufficiently clear spot afforded them 
room to crouch down, offering at once one of the wild- 
est and most picturesque scenes that I have witnessed. 
The flashes of several hundred guns, as they struck 
upon my upward gaze, blinded me by their nearness 
and vividness, while the frightful yells that accompa- 
nied every fresh discharge tended to appal. Indeed the 
scene bordered on the awfully sublime. 



AN OPPORTUNITY LOST. 107 

The total quantity of booty that fell into our hands 
must have been very great indeed, but no one ever 
knew its extent ; for my friend Green, on whom the 
command now naturally devolved, refused to stir from 
my bedside oftener or longer than was absolutely neces- 
sary, and consequently the Damaras had it all their 
own way. Thus there was not only a terrible waste, 
but large droves of cattle and sheep were driven off 
clandestinely. When, after a day or two, we were able 
to take an account of our gains, we found they con- 
sisted of upward of three thousand sheep and goats, 
and of about half that number of cattle. Fully the 
same number of the former had been slaughtered dur- 
ing the night following on the battle, besides abundance 
of fat oxen, while quite as many were concealed. I 
estimated, therefore, that the original number could 
not have fallen much short of ten thousand sheep and 
goats, and three thousand large horned cattle. Indeed, 
the enemy had apparently considered their mountain 
fastness so secure as to deem it unnecessary to drive 
off their live stock. About forty horses were also cap- 
tured, a good deal of ammunition, some guns, etc. 
Finally, we destroyed seven or eight wagons, only 
retaining one, which I presented to our trusty allies, 
the Rehobothians, who had done good service to us on 
the day of the fight. 

The actual number of men killed on this occasion 
was, I believe, quite out of all proportion to the amount 
of firing, but this may easily be accounted for when the 
terribly rocky nature of the disputed ground is taken 
into due consideration. The dead and wounded, on 
both sides, probably did not exceed one hundred, and 



I08 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

perhaps out of this number the better half fell to our 
share, being the attacking party, and consequently 
much more exposed. Only one Damara, of any note, 
however, was counted among the dead, and even he, it 
was affirmed, had been treacherously dealt with by 
some relation who coveted his substance and position. 
It is quite possible that there had been foul play. 
Some women, I regret to say, were killed in the general 
melee, but as they were mixed up with the combatants 
during much of the time that the fighting was going 
on, the result could hardly have been otherwise. A 
larger number were captured, and I need hardly add 
they were kindly treated, and ultimately restored to 
liberty. 

There being an insufficiency of water on the moun- 
tain, we moved our camp on the ensuing morning a short 
distance. The object of the present expedition was not 
only to try to recover my lost property, but to crush 
Jonker, or at least to punish him so severely as to ren- 
der him unable, for the future, to persevere in his in- 
iquitous proceedings. But, alas ! we. had allowed the 
golden opportunity to slip out of our hands. It is true 
we had inflicted on him a most severe lesson by the 
various losses recorded ; but his allies — for he had called 
several tribes to his assistance — had suffered little or 
nothing. Pursuit was not yet altogether hopeless or 
useless, if only vigorously conducted, for it was evident 
that a general panic had seized the enemy, as was shown 
in various ways, their cattle being allowed to roam 
about unheeded and unherded, their wagons being 
abandoned, their huts half-finished, etc., etc. But there 
was no longer any one to lead the Damaras, etc. ; Mr. 



FOLLY OF THE DAMARAS. IO9 

Green, as I have said, absolutely refusing to leave me, 
even for a day ; and I told them plainly that they were 
utterly unfit to execute any plan by themselves. 
Nevertheless, at their urgent solicitations, I delayed 
our homeward march a week, at the end of which time, 
as I had predicted, they had accomplished nothing. 
Indeed, we had, on the whole, been losers by the delay, 
for though cattle were captured daily, a far larger num- 
ber of our own were nightly carried off, and though 
every imaginable precaution w r as taken to guard the 
stock, thefts continued unabated. I made the chiefs 
responsible, but it was of no avail. Indeed it was per- 
fectly ridiculous the way the natives managed when 
left to their own resources ; their incapacity was equalled 
only by their timidity. An instance in point will suffice 
to prove their pusillanimity. One evening it was 
reported to me that a large wagon-camp had been 
espied ; that the white tent coverings of the vehicles 
could be distinctly perceived, as well as the cattle and 
people, but they were not strong enough to make the 
attack on the supposed enemy, but had retired to get 
the necessary reinforcements, and that to-morrow they 
would show me what they could do. Well, they went, 
remained away two days, returning at the end of that 
time, with the information that the wagons they had 
seen were nothing more than white stones ! Utterly 
disgusted with such folly, and seeing clearly that noth- 
ing could be done, I broke up the camp. 

The Damaras, after this, were naturally desirous of 
returning straight home, not caring much what became 
of their allies, the Rehobothians ; and could I myself 
have consulted only my own comfort and safety, I would 



HO NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

gladly have acceded to their wishes. But our Namaqua 
friends had now made themselves so obnoxious to their 
countrymen, that I felt sure the enemy would embrace 
the first opportunity to wreak their whole vengeance 
on the poor fellows, and I could not therefore, conscien- 
tiously — be my own fate whatever it might — consent to 
a step at once so thoughtless and so unjust. On the 
contrary, I determined to give them the benefit of our 
escort to or near Rehoboth, and when the time came 
for parting, to detach a party of trusty Damaras, who 
would help to defend them in case of an attack. It 
was further agreed between us, that the Rehobothians 
should at once set about removing themselves and their 
effects to the neighborriood of Otjimbingue, their own 
station being deemed no longer tenable or secure if they 
were left to their own resources. 

By this time my wound began to open, and to ex- 
hibit something of its true nature. Indeed, though 
there was originally but one orifice, all at once the flesh 
began to give way in several places, making nearly the 
whole surface of the front of the leg — even considerably 
beyond the knee — present the appearance of one entire 
ulceration. I began to feel my case somewhat desper- 
ate, and not knowing but that I might be called to my 
last account at any moment, I thought it prudent to 
request my friend, the Rev. H. Kleinschmidt, to visit 
me without loss of time. He came with all prompt- 
ness ; and not the most loving son could have hailed 
his father's presence with a more affectionate regard than 
I did that of my reverend friend. We had always been 
intimate, but, what with my present precarious state, 
and his people's critical situation, our present meeting 



ARRIVAL AT BARMEN. Ill 

was unusually cordial. We embraced each other 
warmly. The late Mr. Kleinschmidt was one of those 
true and unaffected Christians whom to see is to love 
and cherish, and who, in his simplicity and earnestness, 
must have presented a fair specimen of what the first 
Christian fathers must have been — the immediate fol- 
lowers of a Peter and a Paul. He was still a hearty, 
sound old man, who might, in the ordinary course of 
nature, have many years to run here on earth, while my 
days seemed confined to the shortest span. But, alas ! 
for our own shortsightedness, it was destined, in the 
inscrutable designs of God, that the good old man was 
to be called hence shortly, while I, useless and a cripple, 
was to live on and to mourn his untimely death, my 
own fate yet undecided ! But I must not anticipate 
events. May it please the Almighty to comfort his 
kind-hearted, sorrow-stricken widow, herself a daughter 
of one of the most estimable of missionaries. 

When at last Mr. Kleinschmidt proceeded to inspect 
my wound, and became fully aware of the awful extent 
of my miseries, he shook his head sadly and doubt- 
ingly, remarking : " That leg ought to be taken off, or 
you will die." But my friend did not offer to perform 
the operation — probably he did not feel equal to the 
task — and I was left to my fate. Shortly after this we 
parted, alas ! never to meet again alive ; though, as 
will be presently seen, we once crossed each other's 
path. 

After many days of weary and painful travel, I was 
carried on a stretcher on men's shoulders, amid the 
most intense sufferings, at the mere remembrance of 
which I even now shudder, and arrived in safety at 



112 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Barmen, the most northerly missionary station in Da- 
maraland, but in so exhausted a state that, had the 
journey lasted but another day, I must inevitably have 
perished. As it was, every one looked upon me as 
a dead man. An express had been early despatched to 
the Rev. Mr. Hahn to request his immediate presence 
for the purpose of administering to me the sacrament, 
and other rites usual on the approaching dissolution of 
a man, as also for the purpose of receiving my final in- 
structions about my worldly affairs. Like Mr. Klein- 
schmidt, my friend responded most promptly to my call, 
and the day after our arrival, I had the satisfaction of 
greeting him, besides other friendly faces ; among the 
rest that of Mr. Baines, who henceforth (like Green) 
scarcely ever left my bedside. But, indeed, all friends 
and servants alike vied with each other in attending to 
my wants, and in trying to forestall my slighest wishes. 
And I must not here omit to notice the affectionate 
solicitude, anxiety, and care evinced for me by the Rev. 
H. Brinker and his kind-hearted wife. May God 
Almighty reward all those who thus watched by me,- 
and who tried in every way to soothe and alleviate my 
truly dreadful sufferings ! May they be spared so sad 
a fate as mine, but if unfortunately ill should at any 
time befall them, I devoutly hope and trust that they 
may have the same advantages as I myself in this hour 
of need. Only those who have been placed in similar 
positions can fully appreciate the priceless boon of 
friendly faces and sympathizing friends. After my ex- 
perience, I could well realize the affection and devotion 
gained by the good and amiable Miss Nightingale 



DISTRESSING NEWS. 113 

among the soldiers and others in the hospitals at Scu- 
tari during the Crimean war. 

But I am not going to impose upon my reader's 
patience any longer by a recital of all that I suffered at 
this period. Let it suffice to say, that for several weeks, 
nay, almost months, my fate remained doubtful, pain of 
the severest kind never leaving me for a single moment. 
Nay, there were moments when no human being had 
courage enough to witness my agonies, and to hear my 
heart-rending cries. It seemed impossible for the human 
frame to sustain so much misery. God Almighty! 
Thou wast pleased to try me severely, but in Thy great 
mercy Thou didst vouchsafe me also invariably strength 
and fortitude to bear with patience and humility Thy 
dread inflictions, and my almost more than human 
agonies. May I never forget Thy great mercy. 

During all this time we had been startled more than 
once by false reports, that the Philistines were upon us, 
and at last one day, when there seemed to be sufficient 
reason for believing the rumors to be true, Mr. Green 
became urgent for our immediate removal to Otjim- 
bingue, deeming Barmen unsafe, as he considered it 
untenable in the event of an attack by the Namaquas, 
the greater portion of the Damaras having now returned 
to their homes. I dreaded a removal at this critical 
juncture, and hardly thought it fair to leave our kind 
host without any protection. But the latter objection 
my friend met by assuring me that he would be in no 
danger, inasmuch as having only recently arrived in the 
country, he had never had anything to do with the 
present war, adding, " The consequences be on your 
head if ill comes to us after the timely warning 



114 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

afforded." This argument, though it did not quite 
satisfy me, settled the point, and another day saw us 
en route to Otjimbingue, my resting place at least for a 
time/ which we reached in safety. 

Here the most distressing news awaited us. On 
parting with the Rev. Mr. Kleinschmidt, I had urged 
upon him and his people the necessity of an immediate 
retreat from his station, as there could not be the slight- 
est doubt that our enemies would soon rally and attack 
them. My friend, well knowing himself the precarious- 
ness of their situation, hardly needed my solicitations, 
and did what he could to hurry their departure. But 
in moving thus a whole tribe, much time was necessarily 
required, and the natural indolence and dilatoriness 
of the Namaquas increased the delay. Unfortunately, 
after a few days' journeying, the " trek " got irretrieva- 
bly entangled in mountains of the most formidable and 
harassing nature, without a vestige of a road, and diffi- 
cult for a man to traverse even on foot. Their con- 
veyances, at the best but sorry concerns, broke down 
repeatedly. By keeping the regular wagon-track, all 
these misfortunes would have been avoided ; and there 
is every probability that they would have been spared 
much, if not all, the terrible calamities that shortly after 
befell them, as they might then have reached Otjim- 
bingue in safety before the enemy could have overtaken 
them. Their excuse for choosing so apparently imprac- 
ticable a path was, that they were afraid that their cat- 
tle — hitherto in a great measure spared — might be 
infected by lung-sickness. But it would have been far 
more prudent to have risked that danger rather than 
their own lives. 



REV. MR. KLEINSCHMIDT. I I 5 

While in this dilemma, that is without a road, with 
an insufficient supply of water, broken-down wagons, 
and a variety of other mischances sufficient to make a 
speedy progress impossible, they were overtaken by the 
enemy and all but surprised. Fortunately, a little boy, 
in herding some calves, had perceived their approach, 
and gave the alarm forthwith. There was but little 
time afforded them for making any preparations for 
defence, still they were not taken altogether unawares. 
Indeed, at the first onset they managed to turn the 
tables against their adversaries, having had time to place 
an ambush into which they fell unsuspiciously. Fifteen 
men were counted dead in one spot on the very first 
discharge, the consequence of which was a total rout 
of the advanced party. But being very numerous, and 
the fugitives being rallied by Jan Jonker, they soon 
renewed the attack, and though the Rehobothians once 
more successfully beat off their assailants, it was thought 
advisable to abandon their camp during the ensuing 
night, and take up a fresh position more favorable for 
defence. In the meantime, instant flight had been 
urged upon poor Kleinschmidt, and though most loath 
to leave his people, he saw he could do no good by 
remaining, and in justice to himself and family he set 
off, but, unfortunately, utterly unprovided with even 
the merest necessaries. They left, indeed, with only 
one loaf of bread between a family of seven or eight. 
Moreover, they were half naked, their greatest hardship, 
perhaps, being the want of boots and shoes. In this 
forlorn and wretched condition, they traversed a fright- 
fully hilly and inhospitable country for several consecu- 
tive days, exposed to a broiling sun during the day and 



Il6 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

a biting cold at night. After nearly a week of incessant 
marching up one mountain and down another, till their 
eyelids grew dim by very weariness, their feet lacerated 
and bleeding, almost maddened by hunger and thirst, 
scorched by day and frozen by night, they reached the 
neighborhood of Otjimbingue more dead than alive. 
Indeed, poor Mr. Kleinschmidt was so exhausted as to 
be unable to walk the last stage, and he was placed in 
wagon which was sent for him. When he at last 
arrived, he was compelled at once to take to his bed, 
whence, alas ! he never rose. He had only been a few 
days in the place when I arrived, and had I for a mo- 
ment believed that there was any immediate danger, I 
would most assuredly, weak and suffering as I was, 
have caused myself to be taken to my friend's bedside. 
As it was, I just stopped long enough in passing at a 
short distance from the house, to shake hands with his 
wife and family and other kind friends and acquaint- 
ances, who thronged around my couch to catch a 
glimpse of my emaciated face and form. 

But to return to the Rehobothians. It would 
appear that: the men and children had taken refuge in 
the sandy bank of a river near the camp, covered 
thickly with a species of long, wiry grass, which the 
blood-minded enemy set fire to, by which means, num- 
bers of the unfortunate creatures were destroyed, and 
others seriously injured. Finding themselves, on the 
following day, in possession of the hastily abandoned 
camp, and moreover, having succeeded in capturing 
considerable numbers of cattle and sheep, the Hotten- 
tots rested content with their success. But, at the 
same time, it was thought more than probable that they 



THE REHOBOTHIANS. 117 

would return as soon as they had secured the booty, 
and the poor Rehobothians were unfortunately utterly 
unfit to cope with their adversaries in their present 
crippled condition. Petrus Zwartbooi, the eldest son 
but one of the chief, came to Otjimbingue shortly after 
the catastrophe just narrated, to request assistance. As 
regards myself and Mr. Green we could do nothing, 
but the Damaras sent a large party, and by these means, 
after much misery, the half-ruined tribe found them- 
selves ultimately in safety in our neighborhood, where 
we must leave them for the present. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Severity of my wound — Arrival of my wife — Long and painful illness at 
Otjimbingue — Study of ornithology — Relations with Baines — Dis- 
covery of a new species of falcon — Description of Andersson's perm — 

Machserhampus Alcinus Other specimens — Difference of two 

species. 

SEVERAL months had now elapsed, and by this time 
the danger to my life was probably past, though my 
sufferings had been diminished but little^ It had been 
long ascertained that both the bones of the leg had been 
utterly smashed, though to an unequal extent. A great 
number of pieces and splinters — ultimately reaching the 
astonishing number of seventy — had from time to time 
been extracted, some being of considerable magnitude. 
This fact will at once show the reader what a desperate 
wound it must have been, and every one that witnessed 
it, took it for granted that it would be .impossible for 
me ever to walk, or even to stand again on the limb. 
Three to three and a-half inches of the large bone had, 
in fact, come completely away, and what was to fill up 
this immense vacuum ? It was quite clear that no bone 
would ever grow there, since the two extremities were 
entirely unconnected. But Nature, when left to her- 
self, often works out cures which we little expect or 
understand. And this was strikingly exemplified in 
my own case. Thus one day when examining the 
wound, I was surprised to find that the two ends were 



MY WOUND. 119 

perceptibly nearer each other than before, and hence- 
forth a steady forward movement was distinctly visible. 
My delight at this discovery was at first very great, for, 
in my ignorance, I conjectured that some connecting 
link had been left between the stumps, and that fresh 
bone was thus thrown out from the remnant. But 
I was wrong, for in proportion as the distance between 
the broken bones became less, in the same proportion 
the leg itself became shorter. In fact, it was contract- 
ing or shrinking together. 

Hitherto the leg had been carefully supported by 
splints, but the moment the shattered extremities met, 
from some unaccountable cause, I could not bear the 
pressure any longer. But knowing the great importance 
of keeping the leg straight at this critical period, the more 
so as it became apparent that the small bone at the 
back of the leg had not been disturbed to the same 
extent, and consequently was pushing the leg, as it 
were, forward and inward, I made several determined 
efforts to retain the supports, but each time signally 
failed ; for inflammation of the severest kind set in 
upon every fresh attempt, causing me the most violent 
pain, which neither ether nor chloroform was able for 
a moment to assuage. 

Just as affairs had taken this turn, my brave and 
loving wife joined me. Oh, how my heart had yearned 
for this meeting — at one time so little expected or 
hoped for. For months I had expected her, but it 
appeared that the several letters which I had caused to 
be dictated and forwarded to her at different times had 
never reached her, until all at once, shortly before her 
arrival, when she lost no time in speeding to my sick- 



120 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

couch. I was very thankful that she had been thus 
spared all the misery and suspense that must naturally 
have been her lot had my first letter found its way as 
it was expected and intended. As it was, she received 
at one and the same time the distressing news of my 
being desperately wounded, and the more cheering in- 
telligence of an improvement of my health. It is true, 
rumors had reached Cape Town of the fatal engage- 
ment, by the overland route, but as such reports are so 
often false, or, at the best, exaggerated, my wife's rela- 
tives and friends managed to keep the melancholy tid- 
ings from her. And truly grateful I felt to the Almighty 
for the inestimable blessing bestowed upon me in per- 
mitting me once more to embrace her and the children. 
For nine months I never moved out of a horizontal 
position, and it may therefore be readily conceived that 
I suffered no small inconvenience from such a prolonged 
uniform posture ; nay, it was accompanied by real pain, 
for at one time my back was full of ugly bed sores, which 
I had the greatest difficulty in getting rid of. Add to 
this, that the lower half of my body was always more 
or less immersed in the water constantly applied to my 
hurts, and which, in consequence of my horizontal po- 
sition would often find its way up to my very neck, a 
circumstance both trying and uncomfortable. But bad 
as this was, it was as nothing compared with the an- 
noyance and pain I suffered from the presence of mag- 
gots, which, strange to relate, notwithstanding the 
utmost care, were produced in the wounds in myriads, 
even in the short space of twenty-four hours, and fre- 
quently of an enormous size. A most disgusting sight 
presented itself as the bandages and splints were 



SUFFERINGS FROM MAGGOTS. 121 

removed at every fresh dressing ; and the sensation 
created by these monsters as they wriggled their way 
between the flesh and the bandages was indescribable, 
and at times quite maddening. The very best proof 
of the agonies caused by these worms was found in the 
fact that the wounded natives, who also suffered from 
them, found it impossible to endure the sensation, 
though otherwise so patient of suffering, and apparently 
indifferent to the most acute pain. They might be seen 
frantically trying to tear off the bandages from their 
wounds as soon as the maggots began their erratic wan- 
derings. It may interest the reader to know that noth- 
ing but cold applications were ever used for my wounds, 
with an occasional drop of arnica, but even this was 
found of too quickly healing a property to be long 
continued. 

On the tenth month I made the first attempt to 
change my confined and painful position, by trying to 
turn a little on my right side. I was now also lifted 
out of bed for the first time on to a sofa ; but it was 
long before I gained strength enough to support my 
novel position for more than five minutes together. 

During my long and painful illness at Otjimbingue, 
I, at an early period, had recourse to my favorite pur- 
suit, viz., the study of the feathered tribes, etc., of 
Damaraland, and by this means I often succeeded in 
beguiling many a weary hour, as well as in diverting 
and soothing the anguish of mind and body. I em- 
ployed several native lads, besides my European ser- 
vant, to collect specimens. Baines now also entered 
on his appointed task of depicting the birds. My first 
step was to measure them accurately as they were ob- 
6 



122 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

tained, and to note down carefully the color of those 
parts likely to fade ; my next was to hand the speci- 
mens to my friend, to be presented life-like by his quick 
and talented pencil. I will not deny, however, that we 
had our little hitches at the first outset ; for Baines 
could hardly understand why I should lay so much 
stress upon details as I did. But my argument was 
this. I propose at some future day, if spared, to publish 
a work on the natural history of this and the neighbor- 
ing countries, and which I intend to try to make really 
useful and reliable ; besides, it will be an expensive 
work, and the public is entitled to fair value for their 
money. Now I cannot myself draw or paint a bird if 
my life depended on it, but I am always more or less 
able to tell at a glance whether the position, markings, 
etc., are correctly executed. However, by the time my 
friend has depicted half-a-dozen birds or so, we under- 
stand each other perfectly, and I am in duty bound to 
say that he never refused to make the necessary altera- 
tions when he found that my remarks were just and to 
the purpose. 

But after having been thus successfully employed 
for a considerable period, it became evident that how- 
ever much my friend was anxious to serve me by his 
pencil, and otherwise by his presence to be useful to 
me, he earnestly longed to return to Europe, chiefly, I 
believe, with a view of meeting with and getting redress 
from the famous Dr. Livingstone, then in England, who 
had so fearfully wronged the poor fellow by his hasty 
imputations on his honesty, as also to try to get some 
employment more congenial to his tastes than bird- 
painting. In fact, I understood that he was anxious to 



MR. BAINES. 123 

get the Royal Geographical Society of London to ap- 
point him to some exploring expedition. Becoming 
gradually and fully aware of this, to him, all-engrossing 
feeling, and however much I thought it against both 
our interests — for my friend earned a certain though 
humble income by his present permanent employment — 
I considered it unkind to keep him any longer to his 
engagement, and accordingly bid him go. And thus 
we parted; and, may I hope, with mutual regret ? I 
shall always gratefully remember his many acts of good- 
will and solicitude for my comfort and ease, during this 
truly distressing period of my life. 

After Mr. Baines' departure I was fortunate enough 
to discover a very remarkable bird of the falcon tribe, 
not only quite new to science, but forming an alto- 
gether new and distinct genus. At a later period I had 
the very great pleasure of presenting it to my kind 
friend Mr. John Henry Gurney, one of the most dis- 
tinguished and pains-taking ornithologists of the present 
day. I speak of " Andersson's Perm " {Machcerhampus 
Anderssoni, Gurney), which English naturalists, con- 
sidering I was its first discoverer, were pleased to name 
after me. 

Of this very singular bird I obtained one specimen, 
a female, on the 10th of March, 1865 ; shot near to 
Otjimbingue by my servant, who observed another, 
probably the male ; and, if I mistake not, I also saw it 
on more than one occasion in the same neighborhood. 

When the specimen in question was brought to me, 
I instinctively suspected it was a feeder at dusk or at 
night, and exclaimed, •' Why, that fellow is likely to 
feed on bats ! " And truly enough it so turned out, 



124 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

for, on dissection, a bat was found in its stomach ; and 
in that of another of these birds killed by my man some 
time afterward, several of those creatures were also met 
with. In this species the irides are bright lemon-yellow, 
extremities of mandible black, basil parts and gape 
bluish lead-color, and toes bluish- white. 



Measurement of Male 


and Female. 






Male. 


Female. 




In. 


Lines. 


In. Lines 


Entire length . . . 


. 17 


8 


18 2 


Length of folded wing . 


13 


9 


13 11 


Length of tarsus . . 


2 


2 


2 5 


Length of middle toe . 


2 





2 1 


Length of tail . . . 


7 


3 


7 6 


Length of bill . . 


1 


10 


1 9 



" The female specimen just spoken of," says Mr. 
Gurney, who so kindly and ably edited " Birds of 
Damaraland," " was presented to me by Mr. Andersson, 
and was added to the collection of Raptores in the Nor- 
wich Museum. Among the skins of birds left by 
Andersson at his decease, was the male specimen which 
he subsequently obtained ; and this, on the sale of his 
collection, was secured for the British Museum, in the 
Ornithological Gallery of which it is now exhibited. 
These two specimens only differ from each other in the 
somewhat smaller dimensions of the male bird. The 
female example was described by me in the ' Proceed- 
ings of the Zoological Society' for 1865, under the 
belief that it was both generally and specifically new, 
and I suggested for it the name of Stringonyx Anders- 
soni. 

" Mr. A. A. Bartlett very obligingly undertook to 



SINGULAR BIRD. 125 

mount this specimen for the Norwich Museum, and 
while the bird was thus passing through his hands it 
occurred to him that it certainly belonged to the same 
genus, and probably to the same species, as a bird in 
the Museum at Leyden, which had been figured and 
described by Mr. G. F. Westerman, under the name of 
MachczrJiampus alcinus, in the first volume of a scien- 
tific work published at Amsterdam Under the title of 
Bijdragm tat de Dierkunde, etc' This specimen had 
been purchased for the Leyden Museum from Mr. 
Frank, the well-known dealer in birds and animals, and 
was stated to have been brought from Malacca ; but 
Mr. Bartlett was of opinion that this locality had been 
erroneously assigned to it, and that the bird was really 
a native of Damaraland, especially as many birds col- 
lected there by Mr. Andersson had passed through the 
hands of Mr. Frank about the same date as that at 
which the ' Machcerhampiis ' was acquired by the Leyden 
Museum ; and it was therefore presumed that some 
accidental confusion of tickets might have caused a 
mistaken habitat to be assigned in error to this speci- 
men. Mr. Bartlett's views on this subject were 
recorded in the ' Proceedings of the Zoological Society, 
for 1866, page 324; and as I concurred in his opinion, 
the female specimen from Damaraland, now in the 
Norwich Museum, was figured and described under the 
name of MacJicerhampus alcinns in the ' Transactions of 
the Zoological Society,' Vol. VI., Plate 29. 

" This conclusion, however, has proved incorrect, 
two specimens of the «true MackcerJiampus alcinus, 
agreeing with that at Leyden, having subsequently 
occurred, an examination of which has proved that the 



126 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Damaraland bird, though a nearly-allied, is yet a dis- 
tinct species, and therefore entitled to retain the specific 
name of Anderssoni which I originally proposed for it. 

" Of the two additional specimens of M. alcinus 
above referred to, one is in the possession of Count 
Turati, of Milan, as I am informed by my friend M. 
Jules Verreaux ; but the locality where it was obtained 
has not been recorded. The second additional speci- 
men, which is now in the collection of Viscount Walden, 
was obtained" by the late Dr. Maringay at Malacca, thus 
confirming the correctness of the locality originally 
assigned to the Leyden specimen. 

" Mr. R. B. Sharpe, in an able paper on this subject, 
published in the ' Proceedings of the Zoological Society ' 
for 1871, thus sums up the distinctions between these 
two nearly allied species. ' The Malacca species coin- 
cides with the Damara bird in the form and style of 
plumage to having the white ring round the eye and 
the stripe down the throat, but differs in its larger bill, 
darker colors, brown abdomen, and long occipital crest ; 
there seems, however, to be a difference in the white 
feathers round the eye. M. Anderssoni has a white 
superciliary line and a white spot below the eye ; M. 
alcinus has the latter plainly mottled, but has no dis- 
tinct supercilium, though the feathers round the iris of 
the eye are whitish.' " — Editor* 



CHAPTER X. 

Proceed to Cape Town — Surgical advice — Cape Town Museum and 
Library — Mr. Layard — Avi-fauna of Damaraland — Axel Ericson — 
Accumulation of misfortunes — Propose to return to Damaraland — 
Return to Otjimbingue — Wild and desolate aspect of the country — 
The Welwitchia. 

TO proceed: on the 16th of May, 1865, by which 
time I felt myself strong enough to be moved 
with tolerable safety, I set out with my family for 
Walwich Bay, where I was fortunate enough to secure 
a vessel soon after our arrival. The voyage to Cape 
Town proved speedy and prosperous, having by a mir- 
acle escaped the terrible gale that swept Table Bay at 
this period, and which proved so disastrous to the ship- 
ping of that port. The unfortunate mail steamer, the 
Athens, the reader may perhaps recollect, was among 
the worst wrecks recorded, since neither ship nor human 
beings were ever heard of, having been lost within sight 
of the port, though such was the violence of the hurri- 
cane, that no one knew of the sad occurrence till the 
following day. 

As may be supposed, I lost no time in obtaining 
the best surgical advice. Dr. R , my regular medi- 
cal attendant, after the most careful examinations of 
the wound, and after gathering all facts and particulars 
relating to it previous to my arrival in Cape Town, 
unhesitatingly came to the conclusion that I must sub- 



128 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

mit to amputation — the more so as I had given him to 
understand that I was a ruined man, and had a family 
to provide for, and consequently required to be in a 
perfect state of health in the shortest possible time. 
Others, again, took a different view of the case, and 
declared that, though the leg looked deformed enough, 
and notwithstanding the small amount of union that 
had hitherto taken place in the bones, there was still 
hopes for me that I should walk one day. But on 
pressing these medicos for something more definite — ' 
for some substantial reason for their belief, and for the 
limitation of the time of my supposed recovery, they 
merely shrugged their shoulders and remarked, "We 
cannot give you any particular reasons, but nature 
works out strange cures at times, and we feel confident 
that she will do so in your case." Both parties meant 
well j the one thought only of how most readily and 
efficiently to restore me to health, while the other 
naturally imagined that I should be anxious to save the 
limb which had hitherto proved such a faithful servant 
to me. 

But this hesitation and indecision could only prove 
injurious to my general health by keeping me in sus- 
pense as to the ultimate issue. And, therefore, to set 
the matter at once at rest, I determined to consult a 
friend in England, of considerable reputation as a sur- 
geon of one of the first hospitals in London. Accord- 
ingly, I got my friend', Dr. R , to draw up a report 

upon the disabled leg, accompanied by correct diagrams 
and measurements, and so well did he accomplish his 
task that it drew forth the most unqualified praise and 
admiration of my English medical friend, who conse- 



SURGICAL ADVICE. 1 29 

quently found no difficulty in forming and giving his 
opinion. And it amounted to this : " I would recom- 
mend amputation ; " for though he laid before me 
another alternative, it was clear he himself put no faith 
in its efficacy. Armed with this weighty document — 
for my English adviser was well-known by report to 
most of the faculty in Cape Town — I presented myself 
before five of the most talented and experienced sur- 
geons of the place, fully determined to abide by their 
verdict. 

After a lengthy consultation, and notwithstanding 

Drs. R and B 's opinions, four out of the five 

gentlemen decided to leave the leg alone, at least for 
another six weeks, when, if the union of the bones was 
not satisfactorily advanced, it would be time enough to 
think of amputation. " It was easy," they argued, 
" to take off the leg, but impossible to replace it." And 
at the end of the stated period the leg was found to be 
so much improved in strength, if not in appearance, 
that it was finally decided to " let well alone " ; in fact, 
to permit nature to do the best she could for me. 

I scarcely knew whether to be pleased or disap- 
pointed with the result, for, even should I ever be able 
to walk, it would be in such a crippled way as to pre- 
clude an active life in future. And I had heard so 
much of the excellence and superiority of artificial legs 
and arms over deformed natural limbs that I felt half 
inclined to have insisted upon amputation, with a view 
of verifying or falsifying such reports. But it was not 
to be. It is true I am now able to hobble about in a 
way, but it is only with pain and inconvenience that I 
can accomplish even a few hundred yards. And before 
6* 



130 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

I arrived at this indifferent result, I had to suffer the 
most severe pain for many months. Indeed, nearly 
two years elapsed before I could dispense with crutches, 
and I have never been able to do without a stick. 
Three and a half inches of the large bone, and about 
half as much of the smaller, has been lost — removed, as 
already stated, in upward of seventy pieces and splin- 
ters. The deficiency in the length of the leg is toler- 
ably compensated for by an artificial cork and leather 
boot, but no remedy has yet been found for its other 
deformities, which are the real causes of my not being 
able to walk. 

During my stay in Cape Town I spent much time 
at the Museum, then superintended by my friend Mr. 
Layard, who not only paid me every attention in his 
power, but greatly aided me in comparing and identify- 
ing specimens of natural history, of which this institu- 
tion possesses a large number. The collection of eggs, 
numbering upward of five hundred, and they are very 
good, ones too, specially attracted my attention. The 
library attached to the museum possesses upward of 
2,500 volumes. 

These frequent visits to the museum, where I learned 
much, together with the numerous specimens of birds 
presented to me by friends and acquaintances, and shot 
in the vicinity of the Cape by a Swedish servant named 
Svante, who had accompanied me from Damaraland, 
enabled me to make considerable progress with my con- 
templated work, the " Avi-fauna of Damaraland," and 
the adjacent regions, for which, through the medium 
of a friend, I had now found a publisher, in the Messrs. 
Day and Son, the celebrated lithographers ; and though 



ACCUMULATION OF MISFORTUNES. 1 3 1 

the estimated cost of each copy would be five guineas, 
I was nevertheless enabled to procure upward of one 
hundred subscribers in the Cape Colony, which goes far 
to prove the wealth of the inhabitants. 

While sojourning at the Cape I was joined, at his 
own particular desire, by a youth named Axel Ericson, 
from Sweden. His credentials were the best, and fully 
borne out by his subsequent conduct while in my ser- 
vice. He was a fair shot, and few surpassed him in 
preserving bird skins, which to me was of moment, as 
I was thereby relieved, in a degree at least, from the 
disagreeable task. Altogether he proved a very valu- 
able addition to my little staff. 

After such an accumulation of misfortunes and re- 
verses as narrated in the preceding chapter, it may be 
well supposed that my means had not only diminished, 
but were altogether exhausted. Nay, after settling 
with my Cape agents, to whom I resigned all my worldly 
possessions — including my wife's property — I found 
myself a beggar in the truest sense of the word. In- 
deed, had it not been for my brother-in-law's * hospi- 
tality, I must have starved. Many a man might fairly 
have given way to despair at such prospects as were 
evidently in store forme. I loved independence dearly, 
and would be under obligations to no man as long as 
there was the slightest chance of earning a living by my 
own hands or brains. But with the best of wills to 
work for my bread, I was hardly fit for the lightest 
occupation. Owing to a money crisis, I believe, Cape 
Town at this time was, in a state of something like 
temporary bankruptcy, and there were hundreds of men 
* Now Postmaster-General at the Cape. — Ed. 



132 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

out of employment, far more capable than myself, and 
even had I found some friend to take pity on me, I 
could hardly have given satisfaction in my weak and 
enervated condition. I had already been too much 
confined, and it was clear that a sedentary occupation 
would no longer agree with my health. 

In this dilemma it was not unnatural that I should 
turn my thoughts to the " old country," i. e., Damara- 
land ; for though I had lost my all there, it was equally 
true that there I had acquired everything, and why not 
try to make a second competence in the same land ? Of 
course, there were now serious drawbacks which had 
not existed in the first instance, but I have been so ac- 
customed to battle with troubles and difficulties of all 
kinds, that it requires a good deal to turn me from my 
purpose when once I have made up my mind to do a 
thing. My wife, however, was quite angry with me 
when first I broached the subject to her. " It was sim- 
ply madness to think of it," she said ; and my medical 
attendant was pretty much of the same opinion. In 
my weak state of health, and with a leg only partially 
healed, I should run too much risk. But I thought 
otherwise. The faculty had been able to do little or 
nothing to alleviate my sufferings, though they had 
done everything that kindness, close attention, and skill 
could apparently do. I had an idea that a return to 
old scenes and occupations, as well as to the air that 
had agreed with me so well for such a number of 
years, could not fail to prove beneficial. And when I 
argued this with another surgical friend, he quickly 
remarked, " You cannot do better ; there are times 
when a man may be allowed to be his own physician, 



RETURN TO DAMARALAND. 1 33 

and your case is probably such a one." This settled 
the question. 

But in my impoverished state, to will a thing of 
such moment was not quite to do it, as I should, of 
course, require a considerable outfit. And who would 
undertake such a risk ? My name, it is true, I found 
stood as high as ever in the Cape mercantile community 
for honor and integrity. But the time for credit had 
passed away ; for things were different now from what 
they were before. A man with ,£50 in his pocket 
might then have obtained supplies to the amount of 
several hundreds, while nothing but cash, or the very 
best securities, would now do. I had once begun my 

account with Messrs. V & Co., with upward of 

^2,000 to my credit, and I felt painfully the difference 
of my present position. Unfortunately, I have been 
gifted with a very sensitive mind, and a refusal would 
have caused me much pain and shame. Through very 
severe loses sustained in the business, I knew my late 
agents were incapable of assisting me at this juncture, 
nor did I apply to them. But the plunge must be 
made somewhere ; and I am happy to say that, when 
at last I mustered up courage to take it, out of the 
half-a-dozen individuals to whom I applied for assist- 
ance, only one refused, and that for the smallest 
amount. Nay, the applications were not only readily 
granted, but were accompanied by sympathizing notes, 
and the expressions of most unbounded confidence in 
my integrity. I cannot express how pleased I felt at 
this proof of confidence. . It showed that honesty and 
straightforward dealings will always bring their reward. 
And it affords me much pleasure to add that my sup- 



134 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

porters never found cause to regret their trust ; for, 
under God, I have since been able to repay them, and 
thus save them from all risks, though I shall always 
remain their debtor for their kindness and liberality. 

Having overcome this, my greatest difficulty, I lost 
no time in making the necessary preparations, and after 
some delay, caused by the want of a proper and cheap 
craft, I set sail for Walwich Bay, on the 2d of May, 1865, 
accompanied by the lad Axel, of whom mention was 
recently made, and another Swede, Captain Eeen, of 
the mercantile service, who had entered my employ- 
ment. This place, after a short and prosperous voyage, 
we reached on the 9th of the same month, and, after a 
stay of a few days there, proceeded to my old quarters 
at Otjimbingue. 

On the way there, the travellers' road, for a consid- 
erable distance, lies over as barren a country as can 
well be conjured up to the imagination. Here sand- 
hills, miles and miles in extent, rising several hundred 
feet in altitude, and changing their terror-inspiring aspect 
with every fresh and strong wind that blows ; there 
a naked granite rock or bowlder, reflecting from its red- 
dish looking surface a glaring and insupportable heat • 
or huge heaps of (black) " iron stone," neighboring per- 
haps a dazzlingly white limestone ridge, all destitute 
of vegetation. This is its appearance ; and there are 
hundreds of miles along the west coast, northward and 
southward — even extending far inland — precisely like 
it. Indeed it might vie with the Great Sahara itself in 
sterility and dreariness ; and the weary eye seems to 
range in vain over this howling wilderness, in search 
of some object worthy of attention. Nevertheless, 



PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 1 35 

there is to be found in this desert of sand and rock — 
more especially as one approaches the watershed of the 
periodical Swakop — an object of the highest interest to 
the naturalist, one that has of late years won for itself 
a world-wide reputation. I allude to the celebrated 
Welwitchia, a plant uniting within itself characters pecu- 
liar to many classes of vegetable productions, but of 
which, owing to some strange oversight, I omitted to 
make mention in my former works. 



CHAPTER XI. 

Defeat of Hottentots — Fall of a lawless marauder — Letter to the editor 
of the " Cape Town Mail and Advertiser" — Escape from shipwreck — 
Samuel, the Freebooter — Mr. Green's advance to the Cunene — Re- 
newed disturbances — Great loss of produce — A new way to pay old 
debts — Letter to Jan Jonker — Jacobus Boyce. 

DURING my absence from the country, the Hot- 
tentots had at last carried out their threats of 
attacking Otjimbingue, but the attempt had not only 
proved an utter failure, but led shortly after to the com- 
plete ruin of one of the parties concerned. I am in- 
formed that they appeared before my old place quite 
2,000 strong ; and had they been as brave as they were 
numerous, it would have fared badly with the Damaras 
that day, as they could only oppose to their enemies a 
comparatively small number of fighting men. But for- 
tunately they proved the very reverse of courageous, 
for after having exchanged a few volleys at long range, 
they most disgracefully took to their heels, closely fol- 
lowed by the Damaras, who captured a considerable 
number of ride-oxen, which, in their hurried flight, they 
were unable either to find or to mount. 

Not long after this signal and almost bloodless vic- 
tory on the part of the Damaras, for I believe only one 
man was killed on their side, they mustered in very 
large force, and accompanied by a strong party of their 
old allies, the Rehobothians, followed up the enemy to 



DEFEAT OF HOTTENTOTS. 1 37 

his own place. Four or five distinct tribes of Hotten- 
tots had entered into an alliance, with a view of destroy- 
ing the Damaras, but one of these under Henry Nanib, 
had made itself especially obnoxious to the latter and 
the Rehobothians, and it was therefore determined to 
try and punish this man first, as with his fall the others 
would certainly lose courage, and thus make them 
more inclined for peace. 

They (the Damaras) found Nanib strongly in- 
trenched, and assisted by numerous friends from adjoin- 
ing parts. Such, however, of the Namaquas, who were 
with him under Jan Jonker, fled at the first onset, not, 
I believe, so much out of fear as out of sheer disgust 
with their friends, who had conspicuously shown the 
white feather in the late combined attack on Otjimbin- 
gue. In short, Jan Jonker was afraid to trust his life 
among them. Moreover, it was said that he and his 
people were really anxious for peace. But " a dog will 
always bark best on its own threshold," and so the Da- 
maras and their allies found it now, for Nanib had been 
brought regularly to bay, and finding escape impossi- 
ble, and being well protected by stone walls, natural and 
artificial, he and his people retrieved their reputation, 
offering the most resolute resistance. Indeed it is 
affirmed, and with perfect truth I believe, that had it 
not been for the presence of the Rehobothians, the Da- 
maras would have been driven back with shame and 
slaughter. As it was they lost many men, but the 
day, somewhat inauspiciously begun, ended in the most 
complete victory, every, one of the enemy, including 
the obnoxious chief, being slain. This was very sat- 
isfactory ; and I verily believe there was not even a 



138 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Namaqua, except his own intermediate adherents, that 
did not rejoice in the fall of this lawless Hottentot com- 
mander. He had for years been the bugbear and bully 
of his neighbors, as well as of the white trader, whom he 
never failed to insult, rob, and even personally ill-treat 
whenever and wherever he found the opportunity. 
The country had truly been rid of a scourge and a pest ! 

This decisive victory had, as may well be supposed, 
thoroughly disheartened the enemy, and though no 
regular peace had been established, there seemed to be 
a tacit understanding between all parties that hostilities 
were to cease. The Rev. Mr. Volmer, indeed, a mis- 
sionary among the " Red Nation " (the most numerous 
among the enemies of the Damaras), on his way through 
Otjimbingue, had been commissioned to offer peace to 
his flock. This was the state of affairs on my arrival in 
the country, which, however, will be better understood 
by the following letter that I, on the 6th of June, 1866, 
addressed to the Editor of the " Cape Town Mail and 
Advertiser " : 

" The kindly, nay, almost affectionate interest always 
evinced toward me and my ' adopted land,' by your- 
self and the Cape public in general, inclines me to the 
belief that any news from the ' old country ' will not 
prove unacceptable to the columns of your valuable 
paper. 

" As you are aware, I left the Cape lately with 
the following objects chiefly in view, viz. : to try and 
recover my health, and put a few pounds in my empty 
purse, and to add to and improve my stock of knowl- 
edge as regards my contemplated great work on the 
feathered tribes of these and neighboring regions — a 



CHARACTER OF THE DAMARAS. 1 39 

work, the prospectus of which your and other impor- 
tant Cape papers noticed so favorably shortly before 
my departure. 

" But before I say anything on the state of the 
country and my own future movements, etc., I cannot 
refrain from telling you of a wonderful escape from 
shipwreck that I have had ; the circumstances are 
shortly these. There being a scarcity of suitable craft 
in Table Bay at the period I speak of, and a still greater 
dearth of cash in my pocket, my kind friend Spence 
(of the firm De Pass, Spence, & Co.), generously 
offered me a passage to Walwich Bay, via St. Helena, 
in their fine vessel, the Isabella Hartley. By a mere 
accident I was prevented from availing myself of this 
offer, but shortly afterward shipped in the Telegraph 
and arrived safely at my destination. Hardly had I 
landed my effects, # however, when, to my astonishment, 
and sincere regret, I observed the Isabella Hartley on 
shore within sight, and so far as I am aware, she became 
in a short time a total wreck. This is the second time 
I have been thus marvellously preserved. Truly I have 
much to be thankful for when I remember the very 
many hair-breadth escapes that I have had, both by sea 
and land. 

" But to proceed with my story. My return to 
Damaraland, with solitary exceptions perhaps, was 
hailed with universal satisfaction, and many a man less 
accessible to public applause than myself, might have 
felt flattered at the reception, for I find that though 
perhaps I have not been able to endear myself to the 
people, my absence had been felt as an evil — a no mean 
compliment. As it is, however, I feel mere grieved 



140 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

than pleased, since it proves but too clearly how impos- 
sible it is for the natives to go on by themselves. In 
fact they are like children, who require an unimpas- 
sioned, judicious, and fearless parent to guide, judge, 
and even chastise where necessary. Were the country 
of greater intrinsic value than it is, and were it possible 
for the English Government to send a commissioner, I 
would strongly recommend such a step as the only 
means of finally restoring peace, order, justice, and 
confidence. The great curse of this country is the mu- 
tual distrust existing between every party. The only 
man, the Rev. C. H. Hahn, who from his well-known 
integrity, fearlessness, and knowledge of the country, 
its wants and population, could fairly challenge the ne- 
cessary attention, confidence, and respect, is in a meas- 
ure incapacitated from exerting these qualities in con- 
sequence of his position as a missionary. Politics and 
evangelization are difficult to reconcile in one and the 
same person. I truly grieve for this unhappy land. 

11 In their last engagement with the Hottentots, the 
Damaras had received effective and valuable aid from 
the Rehoboth-Namaquas, who had always proved them- 
selves stanch friends and supporters of the Damara 
cause. But it would seem that the subsequent sharing 
of the spoil and other causes, by the time I arrived, 
threatened to lead to an open rupture. I am happy to 
be able to add, however, that I have for the present suc- 
ceeded in arranging matters to their mutual satisfaction. 
Nevertheless I would not answer for the result when 
once my back is again fairly turned upon the parties 
concerned, the more so as the Rev. Mr. Hahn is just 
now absent on a long journey to the Ovampo, etc. 



LETTER FROM MR. PALGRAVE. 141 

That cursed mutual distrust, above spoken of, makes a 
thorough reconciliation so difficult, if not impossible, 
between so many conflicting interests. 

" In the very midst of these attempts at pacification 
reports spoke of an attack upon more than one party 
of Europeans now away to the northward, hunting and 
bartering. The leader of these marauders is one Sam- 
uel, once a subject of Jonker Afrikaner, but who, even 
before the Damara war of independence began, had 
separated himself from the tribe, and had ever since 
pursued a system of plundering and murdering. And, 
unfortunately, from the central and all but inaccessible 
position fixed upon by this freebooter, he was enabled 
seriously to annoy and injure inoffensive traders and 
hunters. The Damaras, it is true, had twice attacked 
and routed the villain, but in their usual careless way 
they had allowed him and most of the men to escape, 
and the consequence is that the rascal has again found 
means of reoccupying his former stronghold, and in 
greater force than ever, it is reported. 

" A few days after these rumors had reached us, 
and after they had been duly discussed as to their 
probable correctness, letters reached me from several 
of my hunting acquaintances, confirming' our worst 
fears, though not altogether without some cause for 
rejoicing in the midst of the ruin wrought by the scoun- 
drels. Mr. Palgrave, who had been one of the parties 
attacked, but who by a most laudable determination 
and judicious defence had been enabled to turn the 
tables against the enemy, thus writes : 

" ' On the morning of Saturday the 28th of April, 
I was at Namatoni, a large fountain near the edge of 



I42 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Elosha, and about eight o'clock, just as I was sitting 
down to breakfast, we were surprised by about twenty 
Namaquas with some hundred bushmen, Berg-Damaras, 
etc., etc. One of my people instantly recognized among 
the Namaquas some of the same rascals who shot 
Messrs. Smuts, Todd, and Lewis in the Kaoko, in 1864. 
As soon as I could prepare my people, I attacked the 
party, routed them completely, killing several, six it is 
said, took two guns and six ride-oxen. My party, ex- 
clusive of one man who was with the cattle, and three 
others who ran away at first sight of the enemy, was only 
six in number, that is myself, Kenny, Svante, and three 
Damaras, and of these only four of us had guns. I 
regret that I must add that Svante and three Damaras 
were wounded. Poor Svante's wound is not very se- 
rious ; he received the bullet on the outer side of the 
hip bone — the ilium — which it has very slightly splin- 
tered, and up to yesterday (Mr. P 's letter is dated 

1 2th of May) was progressing very favorably, when he 
was attacked by his old enemy rheumatism, which will, 
I am afraid, retard his recovery considerably. I reached 
Ondonga on the 7th inst., where I found your servant, 
Grendon, who at once placed your very nice house at 
my disposal, in which poor Svante is as comfortably 
housed as circumstances have permitted. I have said 
that I reached Ondonga on the 7th inst. Two days 

after, L came in on foot and reports that up to the 

27th of April, he, T , and K were outspanned 

at a fountain about forty-five miles north-east of Otjitno, 
where they had been very successful in obtaining ivory. 
On the morning of the 27th they were attacked by a 
party of Hottentots, who succeeded in taking from them 



SVANTE. 143 

three wagons, five horses, all their cattle, and 1000 lbs. of 

ivory. In short T and L lost everything except 

about 1000 lbs. of ivory, which they had a short time 
before buried, and another 1000 lbs. left in charge of 

Otjikongo ; K saves five guns, but loses everything 

else. They were attacked very early in the morning, and 
were quite unprepared for action. I regret to say that 

not a single shot was fired by any of the party. T 

was wounded, one Damara woman killed, others cap- 
tured, and two or three wounded. K 's conduct in 

the affair seems to have been scandalous. L left 

again yesterday with your wagon and a party to fetch 
in the buried ivory and the wounded.' ' 

The reader may perhaps have guessed that the 
Svante of whom Mr. Palgrave in his letter makes men- 
tion as having been wounded, is my Swedish servant, 
whom -I had sent with my friend to collect additional 
materials for my book on the natural history of the 
country. Notwithstanding some serious faults, Svante 
has always, from early youth, proved himself a devoted 
follower of my father and myself, accompanying us, 
when in his native land, not only on our shooting ex- 
cursions, but when war was made on wild beasts ; and 
latterly sharing with me in South Africa many a trying 
scene and situation by " flood and field." We are con- 
sequently much attached to each other. Poor fellow ! 
though once possessed of gigantic strength and the 
most robust health, he is now but a shadow of his 
former self, and I am therefore not without some ap- 
prehensions for his final safety.* 

* Andersson's apprehensions regarding the man in question were not 
groundless, for soon afterward lockjaw set in and he succumbed to his 



144 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

" I have succeeded in inducing the Damaras to go 
in pursuit of Samuel and his murderous followers ; but 
from the indifferent success that attended them on 
former occasions against the same men, I may perhaps 
be allowed to doubt their being able to effect anything 
that is likely to really benefit the cause of the whites in 
these parts. Still I must and will hope for the best. 

" It was originally my intention to have started for 
the Ovampo country about this time, but I shall now 
be compelled to await the return of the Damaras from 
their present expedition, for though I might probably 
be strong enough to defend myself against the attacks 
of any marauders that may chance to cross my path, I 
should have gained but little, since the risk to individ- 
uals or very small parties must remain the same. 

" Mr. Green informs me that he has at last, in com- 
pany with young Smuts, and one John Pereira, suc- 
ceeded in penetrating to the long heard of and long 
sought for river Cunene, and that the aspect of the coun- 
try round about it greatly exceeds his most sanguine 
anticipations. He speaks in raptures of the scenery, 
which far surpasses that of the Okavango, as also does 
the river in general size and grandeur. On his way 
there, Mr. Green passed through numerous tribes, rich 
in cattle, cultivating the soil diligently, much given to 
barter, and . all bearing a strong resemblance to the 
Ovampo, in their manners, habits, and general appear- 
ance. He met, moreover, with considerable civilization 
among one or two of the nations in question. One 

wound, to the deep regret, as it would appear, not only of his master, to 
whom he was greatly attached, but of many others in Africa, who took a 
vast liking to him for his kind and obliging disposition. — Ed. 



COUNTRY ON THE CUNENE. 145 

chief was especially well advanced, being completely 
dressed like a European, whom he further imitated by 
living apart from his subjects, over whom he evidently 
exercised the most absolute sway. 

" Mr. Green and party were everywhere kindly and 
hospitably received ; only once did they experience 
anything like a rude reception, which, however, was 
soon turned into one of the most friendly nature. My 
friend attributes all this to the kind representations of 
the Ovampo chief, Otjkongo, who is not alone most 
friendly disposed toward Europeans, but possesses 
much influence with the neighboring tribes. The Rev. 
Mr. Hahn has just gone to Ondonga, with a view of 
trying to establish a mission there. I am sure we all 
wish him God speed ! 

" But though Mr. Green gives such a glowing account 
of the scenery, the country, and its capabilities, he 
speaks, on the other hand, in the most discouraging 
terms of any attempt at trying to establish a trade 
between the various tribes inhabiting the regions be- 
tween the Ovampo and the Cunene, as well as those 
living on its banks. Not because of any unwillingness 
on the part of the natives to trade with other Euro- 
peans, nor from want of produce to exchange ; but 
because the commerce, he says, is completely monopo- 
lized by the Portuguese, who, from the intimate knowl- 
edge they possess of the people and their wants, the 
exceeding small cost at which they travel — for they get 
food gratuitously from the natives, and their merchan- 
dise, as well as the produce obtained in exchange, are 
all carried by slaves — and the cheapness of their wares 
utterly forbids all competition. Thus, he assures me 
7 



146 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

that the price paid for a single elephant tusk, say 50 lbs., 
weight, is eight to ten coins ! Surely it is high time 
that the Cape Government remitted the exorbitant 
duty on guns and ammunition in favor of parties pro- 
ceeding in the direction here indicated, so as to enable 
them to compete with some chance of success with the 
Portuguese. For, notwithstanding Mr. Green's dismal 
forebodings, I feel confident of success, could an outfit 
be obtained at the Cape on reasonable terms. I have 
yet to learn that a spirited and persevering Anglo-Saxon 
is to be distanced by a European of more favored 
climes, whether it be in the field of daring exploration 
or the more peaceable pursuit of commercial enterprise ! 
" But, my dear Mr. Editor, I am sadly trespassing 
upon your space, and for fear of exhausting your 
patience altogether, I will hasten to close this lengthy 
epistle. I have only to add, in conclusion, that the 
mission-work among the Damaras is progressing favor- 
ably. A few natives have been converted to Christian- 
ity, more are under preparation for baptism, a goodly 
number of children go to school, a nice church is in 
course of erection ; and lastly, though not the least 
important, the natives are steadily acquiring habits of 
industry. The bed of the periodical Swakop, in front 
of the station, is for a considerable distance covered 
with newly sown corn-lands, and much of the ground on 
the banks is rapidly being converted into gardens. 
Altogether, the prospects are favorable, and all that is 
required to make the people and country happy and 
prosperous is permanent peace — and I am told there is 
some chance of this — and a better government. In 
short, we require an upright, well-to-do, fearless man, 



LETTER TO " CAPE ADVERTISER AND MAIL. 1 47 

who would be prepared to deal out even-handed justice 
alike to the high and lowly, to the rich and the poor." 

On the 22d of November, I again wrote to the 
Editor of the " Advertiser and Mail," to the following 
effect : 

" When I last had the pleasure of addressing you 
from this country, I was led to speak rather hopefully 
of its present and future condition, but I am sorry to 
have to inform you that, instead of a peaceful settle- 
ment of the difficulties that have of late years caused 
so much strife and bloodshed, the country is once 
more thrown into a state of the utmost confusion, and 
the prospects of peace farther off than ever. The 
object of the present letter is to give you and the 
public the facts, so far as I am acquainted with them, 
that have led to this unhappy result. 

" You will remember, I dare say, my allusion to a 
certain Hottentot marauder of the name of Samuel, 
who was levelling ' black-mail ' on peaceful hunters and 
others, and that the Damaras had promised me to try 
to punish the villain, as well as to break up his strong- 
hold. Month after month, however, elapsed without 
any signs of their intentions to redeem their solemn 
promises, till at last I fairly despaired of ever seeing 
them fulfilled. But all at once they (the Damaras) 
declared their readiness to proceed, and remembering 
the old saying, ' better late than never,' I saw them 
depart with joy and hope of a happy issue. 

" But I had reckoned without mine host, for, not 
many days after the commando had left, rumors were 
rife that they had altered their intended course, which 
was to Samuel's stronghold on the confines of Damara- 



I48 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

land ; and this, in consequence of having learned by the 
way that the marauder, in anticipation of punishment 
for his many misdeeds, had already left his den with 
his people and ill-gotten booty and retraced his steps 
into Namaqualand, and instead of returning home they 
had followed him into that province. For should these 
rumors prove true, it was not difficult to see that they 
would attack any other Namaquas that might cross 
their path, and thus open a fresh old wound and 
grievance. 

" And it turned out as I had anticipated, for a 
smaller party preceding the main body of the army, 
having encountered at an early period some Namaquas 
(altogether unconnected with Samuel), with whom was 
a white trader, who happened to be in their company, 
they at once fell upon and slaughtered the whole 
party, and then took possession of their effects. This 
was very sad ; to say nothing of the attack on unof- 
fending Namaquas, it was the first time, so far as I am 
aware, that the Damaras had been guilty of such an 
outrage on Europeans, for, unlike their more civilized 
neighbors, the Namaquas, who were in the frequent 
habit of abusing, robbing, and ill-treating the white 
traders they casually met, the latter had always been 
respected by them. 

" And although on intelligence of the raid reaching 
Otjimbingue, the chief expressed regret for what had 
occurred, and, moreover, promised that on the return 
of the expedition the property of the traders should be 
restored to them — yet I could not learn that such res- 
toration had been made. 

" But to go back to the commando, which, after 



TWO ENCOUNTERS WITH NAMAQUAS. 1 49 

vainly following the spoor of Samuel's wagon for a con- 
siderable distance into Namaqualand, were at length 
necessitated to retrace their steps, in which they appear 
to have suffered dreadfully from sickness (whereby 
very many died), and want of water and food. At this 
period, moreover, an advanced party of them, consisting 
of from three to four hundred stragglers, were surprised 
by a strong body of Namaquas, who were returning 
from a hunting expedition, and utterly routed, leaving 
forty-seven of their number dead on the spot. As a 
set-off, however, to this mishap, the main body of the Da- 
maras soon afterward met the same party of Namaquas 
who, proud of their late victory, hesitated not to attack 
even them. But the Damaras not only showed a bold 
front, but steadily advanced on their foes, who, being 
all mounted, retreated to their wagons, which were 
' trekking.' Here the Namaquas dismounted, and de- 
liberately awaited the Damaras until so near that ' the 
white of the eye could be seen,' when they simulta- 
neously fired a volley, and then remounting, they one 
and all fled for their lives, leaving their wagons, oxen, 
etc., a prey to the enemy. Notwithstanding the close 
proximity of the opposing forces on the occasion in 
question, it would not appear that any of the Damaras 
were killed, but six Namaquas were subsequently dis- 
patched by them with the assegai. 

" Previous to the occurrences mentioned, I had 
received tidings of another nature, that seriously affected 
me personally ; namely, that a large party of Nama- 
quas, headed by J. Bpyce and J. Jonker, had made a 
sudden descent on Walwich Bay and the neighborhood, 
laying friend and foe alike under contribution, but 



150 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

more especially myself, who unfortunately had just 
forwarded a large quantity of valuable produce for 
shipment to Cape Town, nearly the whole of which 
was carried off. The worst feature in this case is that 
the outrage was principally committed by a Namaqua 
chief, with whom we had never been at enmity, but on 
whom, on the contrary, I, for one, had lavished much 
kindness and bestowed many handsome presents. He, 
moreover, owed me close on ^"ioo. I suppose the 
rascal thought it a very pleasant way of crying quits. 
This, as you may well imagine, has been a grievous blow 
to me, and one from which I shall not easily recover. 
Still, for the sake of the dear pledges of my affection, 
and those who so liberally and trustingly helped to 
equip me, I will not despair. Indeed, as far as my 
creditors are concerned, they are secure enough, for by 
dint of the most strenuous exertions and self-denial, I 
still hold property enough to make good all their claims. 
It is my poor family who will be the sufferers. But I 
feel that the Almighty, who has hitherto so mercifully 
and marvellously preserved me, will not abandon me in 
this my hour of need, and that my honest endeavors 
will finally be crowned with success. Away, then, with 
dark thoughts ! cheerily once more on the boundless 
ocean of Hope ! " 

To proceed : Having by this time pretty well 
ascertained that the Damaras had no sincere wish for 
peace, and seeing that it would be hopeless for me to 
struggle successfully against so many contingencies of 
danger, without some guarantee from my enemies of 
being allowed to pursue my peaceable avocations 
unmolested, I addressed at this period a letter to Jan 



HOPELESS STRUGGLE. T 51 

Jonker, demanding whether he wanted peace or war ; 
that for my own part, I was heartily tired of strife and 
bloodshed, and would be glad to come to a thorough 
understanding at once. On Jacobus Boyce, I did not 
deem it worth while to waste ink and paper, but would 
leave to the Damaras to deal with the ungrateful 
wretch as they saw fit. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Scarcity of wild beasts near Otjimbingue — The Leopard — Its resorts and 
food — Manner of surprising its prey — Wonderful bound — Accident 
to Axel — African Boer — Out of the frying-pan into the fire — An- 
dersson's adventure — Temerity of the Leopard — The chasse — Dogs 
— The chetah — How it hunts — The wild-cat — Andersson's letter. 

OTJIMBINGUE had once been a famous resort of 
wild beasts of various kinds, and though these 
had of late years been in a great measure driven or 
scared away by the largely increased population, a 
stray shot was occasionally obtainable at some of the 
smaller as well as the larger quadrupeds indigenous to 
the country. A visit from a lion was, on the whole, a 
rare event ; but leopards, chetahs, lynxes (generally 
known as wild-cats"), paid frequent visits to the sheep- 
folds, hen-roosts, etc. A favorite rendezvous of theirs 
were three small rocky, table-shaped eminences, 
largely strewn with bowlders — and consequently well 
suited for their hide-and-seek nature — within easy 
range of my house. 

Before, however, I speak of these animals, a word 
or two regarding their natural history, etc., may not 
be out of place. 

The leopard of Africa (Felis Leopardus), there very 
commonly called tiger or panther — the first in order, 
which Captain Harris tells us is very similar in appear- 
ance to that indigenous to India — is common through- 



THE LEOPARD. I 53 

out Damaraland, as also Southern Africa generally ; 
but, from its cunning, active nature and nocturnal 
habits, is but rarely seen. It is about two feet seven 
inches high at the shoulder, and seven feet six inches 
in extreme length. The chin, neck, breast, belly, and 
inside of the extremities are white, the rest varying in 
different specimens between tawny, fulvous and 
reddish-brown, irregularly marked with spots of black 
which differ greatly in number, size, and appearance at 
different ages and seasons. It is monogamous, or 
solitary. In its wild state it is an exceedingly beauti- 
ful creature," its motions in the highest degree easy and 
graceful, and its agility in bounding among the rocks 
and woods quite amazing. Of its activity no person 
can have an idea by seeing it in the cages in which 
these animals are usually exhibited in Europe, hum- 
bled and tamed as they are by confinement and the 
cold and damp of the climate. 

The chief resorts of the leopard are mountainous 
districts, where rock is piled on rock in frightful confu- 
sion, leaving between them fissures and caverns, more 
or less spacious. It is also met with in dense brakes 
and tangled coverts, where, if hard pressed by the 
hunter, it almost invariably takes refuge in a tree, should 
one be at hand ; and if this be large and umbrageous, 
it is not without difficulty the animal is discovered, it 
having a marvellous faculty of concealing itself behind 
some knotty branch, or at the junction of the larger 
limbs with the trunk. Under such circumstances, 
moreover, it requires a practised eye and a steady hand 
to bring it down dead, as, if merely wounded, the chances 
are both man* and dogs will fare badly. Neverthe- 
7* 



154 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

less, this is the easiest and safest way of killing the 
leopard. 

Its food is very various ; indeed, hardly anything 
comes amiss to its voracious appetite and blood-thirsty 
nature; and, what is worse, it wantonly slays far more 
than it can consume, and thus becomes doubly destruc- 
tive, so to say. • It attacks indiscriminately birds, the 
rock-rabbit {Hyrax Capensis), monkeys, baboons, dogs 
(of the latter of which it is said to be specially fond), 
if they come in its way, antelopes, sheep, goats, and 
young cattle. It is said, indeed, that it causes the 
natives and colonists more damage than even the lion 
and other beasts of prey put together. It also preys 
on the ostrich, among whom, from that bird's want of 
hearing and smell, it commits great ravages. Indeed, 
I am inclined to believe that, of the large number 
annually destroyed in Damaraland and adjacent parts, 
whether by man or otherwise, two-thirds may be fairly 
charged to the leopard's account. I draw this inference, 
because out of the ostrich feathers brought to me by 
the natives for the purpose of barter, such of them as 
had been plucked from birds killed by the leopard were 
readily distinguished from those of birds shot by the 
hunter or captured in gins and pit-falls, by their jagged, 
mangled, and sawed look, occasioned by the teeth of 
the creature in question. 

According to Methuen, even the " fretful " porcu- 
pine is not safe from the attacks of the leopard, for 
after describing the death of one of the last-named ani- 
mals, he says, " It is a curious fact that on skinning it 
we found several bits of porcupine quills, upward of 



AGILITY OF THE LEOPARD. 1 55 

two inches in length, embedded in the flesh, with much 
attendant suppuration." 

Elsewhere, the same author, after telling us that 
certain animals and birds have a propensity to lay in a 
supply of provisions for an emergency, goes on to say, 
"The Hottentots led us to the water near our camp, 
and showed us a singular phenomenon in the shape of 
a ' leopard's larder,' in which some savory morsels of 
flesh were stored away in the forks of a large olive tree, 
at about ten feet from the ground, and carefully con- 
cealed by some twigs, the leaves of which were just 
shrivelled." 

As with the lion, the leopard always surprises its 
prey, either by stealing upon it cat-fashion, or from an 
ambush. As a rule, it fixes its fangs in the neck of 
the victim, and with such fatal accuracy that marks of 
one or both of them are usually found on or about the 
jugular vein, and, as a consequence, few animals thus 
seized escape with life. Nevertheless, although its 
strength is very considerable, it might be matched by 
a powerful dog were it not for its surprising agility. 
The extent of its bound when endeavoring to escape 
from an enemy, whether it be from a height or the 
ground, is at times almost beyond credence-. Indeed, 
I myself was, on a certain occasion, an eye-witness to 
its wonderful powers in this way ; it was under these 
circumstances: One evening, a little before sunset, 
while I was still suffering from the effects of fever, all 
my dogs suddenly began to give chase to some animal, 
which the distance did* not enable us to distinguish. 
To judge, however, from the rapid alternating attacks 
and retreats of the pursuers, they evidently had a for- 



I$b NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

midable antagonist before them. I was too weak to keep 
quite up with them, but my curiosity was so great that 
I almost did so. They were, I conjectured, from their 
steady, unbroken, deep bay, close upon the haunches of 
the enemy, yet I could not distinctly see either the dogs 
or the object of their pursuit ; when all at once a mag- 
nificent leopard sprang right before me, from the topmost 
branches of a tall acacia, clearing, with a single bound, 
all his fierce assailants. I was so astounded at the 
magnitude of the leap — of which, without having seen 
it, a person can hardly form a notion — that, looking first 
at the tree and then at the place on which the beautiful 
animal alighted, I could hardly withdraw my eyes from 
the spot. Had the dogs been equally fascinated as 
myself with the fierce muscular action of the comely 
creature, they would certainly have lost their prey ; but 
rage alone animated them, and before the panther had 
proceeded one hundred yards, they had overtaken and 
pulled him to the ground, when they fell on him with 
such ferocity that by the time I reached the scene of 
conflict, the poor brute gave no other signs of life than 
a quivering of the limbs. 

Its disposition is fierce, cruel, and vindictive, and it 
has the reputation of being desperately courageous. 
Speaking generally, however, excepting in self-defence, 
or when wounded, the leopard will not attack people ; 
though it does happen at times that when they approach 
too near to its hiding-place it will, without the slight- 
est provocation, make an onset on the intruder. 

Casualties from leopards in my vicinity were not of 
unfrequent occurrence. On one occasion, indeed, my 
Swedish lad, Axel, was beating some low bushes in 



CASUALTIES FROM LEOPARDS. 1 57 

search of game and specimens, when he suddenly found 
himself in presence of one of these beasts, who, appar- 
ently, was in the very act of springing upon him, its 
head being ensconced between its fore legs, as is its 
wont on such occasions. Being probably startled at the 
unexpected vision, the youth hurriedly raised his fowl- 
ing-piece to his shoulder and fired. But the contents, 
unfortunately, only lodged in one of the animal's fore- 
paws, which it smashed, as was afterward ascertained, 
and before he could pull the second trigger he found 
himself in a deadly struggle with the exasperated brute. 
However, being a strong-limbed and courageous young 
man, he seized the leopard with both hands, and for 
some moments held it down to the ground by main 
force. Hearing cries of distress, some Damaras who 
were herding cattle hard by came up, but seeing the 
danger, they beat a precipitate retreat. My poor boy 
repeatedly pointed with his foot to the gun, but all in 
vain, and he began to despair of his life, as the beast 
had by this time dreadfully lacerated both his hands 
and arms, and consequently unfitted him for prolonged 
strife with such a fierce and powerful opponent. Prov- 
identially the dogs, though not the most courageous, 
came to the rescue, and by persistently worrying the 
beast in his hinder parts, finally compelled him to 
decamp, though not until he had killed one of the num- 
ber. It is satisfactory, however, to add that he him- 
self was shortly afterward destroyed by a party of na- 
tives, who, on hearing the poor fellow's cries, promptly 
ran to the spot, and afterward went in pursuit of the 
leopard, which died game, having slain a second dog; 



158 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

two others, moreover, being accidentally shot by their 
owners in the general melee. 

As I have said, the lad was fearfully knocked about 
and mauled. In some places, especially about the hands 
and wrists, the teeth of the animal had actually met in 
the flesh. I am, however, happy to be able to add that 
with care and quiet, he ultimately regained the use of 
his arms and hands, though not until after much and 
prolonged suffering. 

On another occasion, a herd of mine espied a leopard 
among some rocks, and being armed he unhesitatingly 
discharged his musket, but either missed his mark, or 
very slightly wounded the brute. The next moment 
the poor fellow felt himself struck violently to the 
ground, with the teeth of the infuriated animal deep 
buried in his left shoulder. However, by the assist- 
ance of some dogs the leopard was made to retreat after 
awhile, but not until it had fearfully mauled the man, 
who, though he recovered temporarily, eventually died 
from the effects of the dreadful wounds inflicted. 

Numerous other instances of the ferocity of the 
leopard have come under my own notice, and very 
many others are on record, of which I shall instance 
a few. 

" Two African farmers returning from hunting, 
roused a leopard in a mountain ravine, and imme- 
diately gave chase to it. The beast at first endeavored 
to escape by clambering up a precipice ; but being 
hotly pursued and wounded by a musket-ball, it turned 
upon its assailants with the frantic ferocity peculiar to 
this animal, and springing upon the man who had fired 
at it, pulled him to the ground, biting him at the same 



FEROCITY OF THE LEOPARD. 1 59 

time on the shoulder, and tearing open his cheeks with 
its claws. The other hunter, seeing the danger of his 
comrade, sprang from his horse, and attempted to 
shoot the leopard through the head ; but whether 
owing to trepidation, the fear of wounding his friend, 
or the quick motions of the animal, he unfortunately 
missed. The leopard, abandoning its prostrate foe, 
darted with redoubled fury upon its new antagonist, 
and so fierce and sudden was the onset that, before the 
Boer could stab it with his hunting-knife, the savage 
brute struck him on the head with its claws, and actu- 
ally tore the scalp over his eyes. In this frightful 
condition the hunter grappled with the leopard, and, 
struggling for life, they rolled together down a steep 
declivity. All this passed far more rapidly than it can 
be described in words. During this dreadful scene the 
hunter first attacked had started to his feet and seized 
his gun, and after reloading it, he rushed forward to 
save the life of his friend. But it was too late. The 
leopard had seized the unfortunate man by the throat, 
and mangled him so dreadfully that death was inevita- 
ble ; and his comrade (himself severely wounded) had 
only the melancholy satisfaction of completing the 
destruction of the savage beast, already exhausted with 
the loss of blood from several deep wounds from the 
knife of the expiring huntsman." 

Again, another instance of the ferocity of the 
leopard occurred in the case of the Missionary Schmidt. 
" This worthy man had gone out with a party of Hot- 
tentots at another Moravian station to hunt some 
hyenas which had been very destructive to their flocks, 
and in company with one of the men entered a thicket 



l6o NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

in pursuit of a beast they had wounded. Instead of 
the hyena, however, the dogs started a leopard, which 
instantly sprang on the Hottentot and bore him to the 
ground. Mr. Schmidt ran forward to the aid of the 
man, with his gun cocked ; but before he could find an 
opportunity of firing, the animal left the Hottentot and 
flew with fury at himself. In the scuffle he dropped 
the gun, but luckily fell above the leopard with his 
knee on its stomach. The animal seized him by the 
left arm with its jaws, and kept striking him with its 
paws and tearing his clothes in tatters from his breast. 
Schmidt, however, being a powerful man, succeeded, 
after receiving another severe bite or two, in seizing the 
leopard by the throat with his right hand, and held it 
down, in spite of its desperate struggles, for a few 
minutes, and until his strength was on the point of 
giving way, when a Hottentot on the outside of the 
jungle, who heard his cries, came to the rescue, and 
shot the ferocious beast through the heart, so that its 
death was instantaneous. ^Had any life been left, its 
dying struggles might still have proved fatal to Mr. 
Schmidt. As it was, he was so terribly lacerated that 
for several weeks his life was in the greatest danger. 
The Hottentot who was first attacked was less severely 
wounded, but his face was so much torn by the 
animal's talons that his eyes were filled with blood* 
and he was unable to render any aid to the missionary 
who had so generously come to his aid." 

" While in this helpless state " (rheumatic fever), 
writes Gordon Cumming, " Mr. Orpen and Present (a 
native follower) had gone up the river'to shoot sea-cows, 
when they fell in with an immense leopard, which Pres- 



MAN SEIZED BY A LEOPARD. l6l 

ent wounded very badly. They then sent natives to 
camp to ask for dogs, of which I sent them a couple. 
In about an hour the natives came running back and 
said that Orpen was killed by the leopard. On further 
inquiry, however, I found that he was not really killed, 
but fearfully torn and bitten about the arms and head. 
They had rashly taken up the spoor on foot, the dogs 
following behind, instead of going in advance. The 
consequence of this was that they came right upon the 
beast before they were aware of him, when Orpen fired 
and missed him. The leopard then sprang on his shoul- 
ders, and dashing him to the ground, lay upon him, 
growling and lacerating his hands, arms, and head most 
fearfully. Presently the creature permitted Orpen to 
rise, and come away." 

Where were Present and all the natives, that not a 
man of them moved to assist the unfortunate Orpen ? 
He goes on to say : " According to an established cus- 
tom among all colonial servants, the instant the leopard 
sprang on him, Present discharged his piece in the air, 
and then, dashing it to the ground, he rushed down 
the bank and jumped into the river, along which he swam 
some hundred yards before he would again venture on 
terra firma. The natives, though numerous and armed, 
had likewise fled in another direction." 

The teeth of the leopard, or rather its saliva, I pre- 
sume, are reputed to be of a very poisonous nature. 
Certain it is that men bitten by the animal seldom 
recover from their hurts until after a length of time and 
much suffering. 

I should remark that when a man has been bitten 
by a tiger, and the beast has afterward been killed, the 



162 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Damaras melt some of the fat, which is poured into the 
wound along with a powder produced by pounding a 
portion of its teeth. They also, I am informed, take 
the moist soil out of the river-bed, which, after being; 
cooked, or prepared in some way or other, is applied as 
a poultice to the wounds. A tiger's bite, the natives 
moreover assert, is less dangerous if inflicted at noon 
than at an earlier or later period of the day. It is a 
curious fact that the custom of applying a portion of 
the fat, entrails, or even the flesh of the creature 
(whether quadruped or reptile) held to be poisonous to 
the wounds of a man that has been bitten by it, or of 
taking the same internally, should be prevalent among 
nearly all the tribes of Southern Africa. 

Numerous instances of hairbreadth escapes from 
the leopard are also on record, among which that of 
Moffat the missionary is, perhaps, not the least remark- 
able, the rather as, in the avoidance of the threatened 
danger, he incurred another of even a more perilous 
nature, thus verifying the old saying, " Out of the fry- 
ing-pan into the fire. 

" In one of my early journeys," he writes, " I had 
an escape from an African tiger and a serpent, no less 
providential. I had left the wagons, and wandered to 
a distance among the coppice and grassy openings in 
quest of game, I had a double-barrelled gun on my 
shoulder," which was loaded with a ball and small 
shot. An antelope passed, at which I fired, and slowly 
followed the course it took. After advancing a short 
distance, I saw a tiger staring at me between the forked 
branches of a tree, behind which its long, spotted body 
was concealed, twisting and turning its tail like a cat 



PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE. 163 

just going to spring on its prey. This, I knew, was a 
critical moment. I moved about as if in search of 
something on the grass, taking care to retreat at the 
same time. After getting, as I thought, a suitable 
distance to turn my back, I moved somewhat more 
quickly ; but in my anxiety to escape what was behind, 
I did not see what was before me, until startled by 
treading on a large cobra-da-capello serpent asleep on 
the grass. It instantly twisted its body round my leg, 
on which I had nothing but a pair of thin trousers, 
when I leaped from the spot, dragging the enraged and 
venomous reptile after me, and while in the act of 
throwing itself into a position to bite, I, without turn- 
ing round, threw my piece over my shoulder .and shot 
it. Taking it by the tail, I brought: it to my people in 
the wagons, who, on examining the bag of poison, as- 
serted that, had the creature bitten me, I could 
never have reached the wagon. The serpent was six 
feet long." 

Happily, I myself never came within the clutches 
of a leopard, though on one occasion, had not prudence 
got the better part of valor at a critical moment, I 
might have found myself in a very awkward scrape. 

Cantering one genial afternoon past one of the 
wooded knolls recently spoken of, near to Otjimbingue, 
with a splendid eagle {Aquila bellicosa) slung to my 
saddle, I was treated to an exquisite view of one of the 
creatures perched most picturesquely on a projecting 
rock. With body expanded to its utmost size, nerves 
strained apparently almost to bursting, leaning well 
forward from the bowlder, one of its hind legs being 
firmly planted on an adjoining stone, tail swaying mean- 



164 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

ingly to and fro, and with eyes dilated and glittering, 
fixed steadily on some object immediately below, it 
hung, as it were, on the clear-cut horizon, the very beau- 
ideal of a feline picture. 

I was within a couple of hundred yards of the brute, 
but so intensely was his gaze riveted on some other 
passing object that it either was not aware of my pres- 
ence, though in full view of me from its elevated posi- 
tion, or it lost sight of its own danger in trying to com- 
pass its natural impulses. Reining in my steed cau- 
tiously, I contemplated admiringly for a few moments 
the striking scene, varied by the contrast of a large 
herd of many-colored sheep and goats just emerging 
from some low brushwood at the foot of the rock — evi- 
dently the object of the leopard's fascination — frisking 
and gambolling in their satiety and fulness, totally un- 
conscious of the close proximity of their dreaded and 
deadly foe. 

Only one barrel of my fowling-piece chanced to be 
loaded, and that with the very smallest shot, having 
shortly before discharged the other at the eagle spoken 
of; but the temptation to have a shy at the fierce 
marauder was too great to be withstood, and being 
always much of a creature of impulse, I quickly made 
up my mind to the risk. I felt confident that if I could 
but bring a huge stone that rose close to the animal 
between me and him unperceived, a sudden leap or 
two would bring me face to face with him, and give me 
a chance of despatching him with even such an indiffer- 
ent missile as I had then at command. Accordingly I 
rode on quickly until out of sight, when I immediately 
faced round, and having reached the foot of the rock 



STORIES OF LEOPARDS. 1 65 

alluded to, I dashed boldly on the panther. He heard 
me coming, and I was only just in time to catch sight 
of his hind-quarters as he disappeared round the very 
stone that had hitherto concealed me from view. Being 
a tolerably good snap-shot I might perhaps have given 
a good account of his seat of honor, but fortunately my 
eagerness did not outrun my discretion at this critical 
moment, and I forbore to fire. And right glad was I, 
after reflection, at having refrained ; for though a well- 
directed shot at his head might have killed or blinded 
him, a charge of dust shot in his breech could only 
have served to exasperate the brute, and would have 
made the issue at least doubtful. 

There were several native villages close to the knolls 
in question, and as I passed them on my way home I 
warned the inhabitants of the danger; but either they 
cared not or they had not the means to avert it, for the 
next morning, having occasion to go by some of the 
werfts, I found that the leopard spoken of had played 
sad havoc in one of their sheep-folds, having remorse- 
lessly killed several of its inmates, besides wounding 
many others. 

The temerity of the leopard is sometimes almost 
incredible. I remember an instance in point which 
occurred during my stay at Otjimbingue. A Damara 
who was herding my cattle came one morning to tell 
me that a leopard had entered one of the huts on his 
werft, occupied by a young woman, during the night, 
and there remained till daylight. On finding herself 
thus unexpectedly visited — the man went on to say — she 
gave the alarm, and on hearing the voices and steps of 
her friends approaching, the girl made a rush for the 



1 66 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

door and gained the open air unmolested. The peo- 
ple, however, would not believe it possible that there 
had been such an animal as she described in the hut, 
and much less that it could still be there : it was merely 
her fancy, they laughingly remarked — a dream in short. 
But the woman stuck to her tale, and insisted upon the 
leopard still occupying the hut ; and though they 
refused to credit her, not one would enter the hovel to 
disprove or verify the assertion by ocular demonstra- 
tion. It had the effect, however, of keeping the natives 
awake for the remainder of the night, and just as day 
was breaking they observed, to their surprise, a full- 
grown leopard quietly emerge from the hut in question, 
and make for the adjoining rocks ! 

The secret was now soon explained, for it appears 
that the object of the brute's visit to the hut had been 
a dog which had taken refuge there, and which he had 
at once killed, remaining unconcernedly to feast upon 
the carcass until gorged or scared away by the return 
of day. 

A somewhat similar story is told by Delegorgue, 
the African traveller: 

" Seeing a crowd of people of both sexes in earnest 
conversation, and gesticulating violently," he writes, 
" I went up to them to inquire the cause of their ex 
citement ; but before they had time to reply I noticed, 
extended on the ground and attached by the four legs 
to a stout pole, a long and slender panther, over the 
head of which was thrown a our-gobo. She was quite 
dead ; the blood still flowed from numerous wounds. 
This is what I learned : 

" The preceding night, between eleven and twelve, 



AUDACITY OF THE LEOPARD. 1 67 

when every one slept, three living beings reposed in a 
cabin, wherein was a half-extinguished fire. A woman 
and her child occupied the inner end of the left side of 
the building; a dog the outer end to the right. The 
panther, who incessantly prowls about during the night, 
had from a distance scented the dog, and, creeping 
forward on her belly, placed her nose to the aperture ; 
up to this time there had been no noise. For an 
instant the beast hesitated ; but the victim is so near. 
The door gives way — the dog barks, and is imme- 
diately torn to pieces. 

" At the cries of the woman, who could not escape 
by the door, except by passing the dog and the 
panther, whose claws and fangs constantly opposed her, 
a number of armed men ran to the spot — and see the 
singular expedient they had recourse to. The door is 
closed and securely fastened. Four men pass their our- 
kondas through interstices in the door, the points of 
their weapons crossing in like manner as bayonets, and 
thus preventing the savage animal from either lifting 
up or opening it. These men remain without, each 
holding a second assegai in his right hand in readiness 
for any emergency. At the same time a hole, ten to 
twelve inches in diameter, is made on a level with the 
ground, at the upper end of the cabin, to facilitate 
which operation fires were lighted round and about the 
latter. Presently the woman and her child — both half 
dead with fear — were drawn through the aperture in 
question, which was afterward effectually closed with 
sticks, mats, etc. The. dog and the panther now alone 
remained in the hut, where the beast was heard to 



1 63 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

bound repeatedly against the walls, which it essayed to 
tear down with its teeth. 

" The Amazoulous turned to advantage this rage 
of despair; a hundred, two hundred our-kondas were 
passed through the sides of the slightly constructed 
hovel, and presently their sharp and cutting points con- 
verged about the furious beast. Sometimes she tore 
away the spears with her claws, at others seized them 
with her teeth ; but a number of the weapons wounded 
her, and when, frantic and roaring, she rushed upon the 
door, to which she was naturally attracted by the light 
of the fires, the four warriors posted there riddled the 
fore-part of her body With their assegais. She had 
already received more than a hundred wounds, without 
counting the loss of her eyes, when with a desperate 
bound she pierced herself to the heart. 

" This is not a fabulous relation ; I myself saw 7 the 
woman, the child, the panther, and the weapons used to 
destroy it. I have inspected the bloody arena ; and I 
have moreover brought away the skin and the head of 
the animal in remembrance of the event, and of the 
presence of mind of the Maputa." 

Again : " The leopard, when famished with hun. 
ger," writes Gordon Cumming, " is exceedingly auda- 
cious. The night was pitch dark, so that nothing could 
be seen ; but Molleyon told me that a lion and a leop- 
ard were prowling round us, endeavoring to obtain the 
venison of the zebras, which hung in festoons in the 
trees beside us, and next moment I heard the voices 
of both, the lion roaring and the leopard shrieking 
wildly as they sprang after the dogs. At length their 
boldness increased ; the lion chased the dogs with angry 



LEOPARD HUNT. 1 69 

growls within twenty yards of where we stood, and 
the leopard actually sprang into the centre of my larder 
beside the fire, and was making off with a large frag- 
ment of ribs, when the dogs went gallantly at him. He 
turned upon them, and so terribly lacerated two that 
they soon afterward died of their wounds. We now 
snatched up large flaming brands from the fire, and, 
meeting the lion as he advanced, sent them flying in his 
face, when I fancy he made off. I feared to use my 
rifle lest I should shoot the dogs. The horses and oxen, 
though much alarmed, did not endeavor to break loose, 
being still very much fatigued from the hardships they 
had undergone." 

On another occasion, Gordon Cumming tells us, 
"A panther at night came within ten yards of my fire, 
and killed Craddock, and disabled Wolf, my two best 
elephant dogs." 

The chasse of the leopard, by both colonists and 
natives, is commonly conducted on foot, the hunters 
being accompanied by dogs, of which the more there 
are the better, as they are the greatest of safeguards 
from this fierce and agile beast ; and, though the native 
fox-like breed are awful-looking creatures, I have never 
found any others equal to them for daring or per- 
tinacity. 

In the vicinity of Otjimbingue, should the leopard 
be very destructive to the herds and sheepfolds, the 
Damaras at times turned out en masse to hunt him, in 
which case he seldom escaped with life, though too 
frequently at the cost of several of their most courage- 
ous and best dogs, and severe wounds and bruises to 
one or more of the men themselves. A leopard on such 
8 



170 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

occasions has been known to cast himself, in rapid suc- 
cession, on five or six different assailants, severely 
wounding each and all, and not unfrequently maiming 
some for life. When at these times, I would here 
remark, an individual is attacked by the creature and 
cast to the ground, it not unfrequently happens, should 
the opportunity offer, that he seizes it by the ears ; and, 
if he be strong and agile, holds it fast until his compan- 
ions come to the rescue and despatch it, which they are 
then enabled to do with tolerable ease and safety. If a 
gun be not at hand, a blow with a knob-kieri on the 
nose or chest will prove sufficient to put it hors de combat 
for a moment, or, it may be, kill it outright. Though 
the leopard, as said, is commonly hunted on foot, yet 
once on a time, as what follows will show, the creature 
is pursued on horseback. 

" After partaking of some refreshment, having just 
returned from an elephant hunt," says Gordon Cum- 
ming, " I saddled up two steeds and rode down the 
bank of Ngatwani with the Bushmen, to seek for any 
game I might find. After riding about a mile along 
the river's green bank, I suddenly came upon an old 
male leopard lying under the shade of a thorn grove, 
and panting from the great heat. Although I was 
within sixty yards of him, he had not heard the horses' 
tread. I thought he was a lioness, and, dismounting, 
took a rest in my saddle on the old gray, and sent a 
bullet into him. He sprang to his feet and ran half- 
way down the river's bank, and stood to look about him, 
when I sent a second bullet into his person, and he dis- 
appeared over the bank. The ground being very dan- 
gerous I did not disturb him by following then, but 



DOMESTICATION OF THE LEOPARD. 171 

I at once sent Ruyter to camp for the dogs. Presently 
he returned with Wolf and Boxer, very much done up 
with the sun. I rode forward, and on looking over the 
bank the leopard started up and sneaked off alongside 
of the tall reeds, and was instantly out of sight. I fired 
a random shot from the saddle to encourage the dogs, 
and shouted to them. They, however, stood looking 
stupidly round, and would not take up his scent at all. 
I led them over his spoor again and again, but to no 
purpose ; the dogs seemed quite stupid, and yet they 
were Wolf and Boxer, my two best. At length I gave 
it up as a lost affair, and was riding down the river's 
bank when I heard Wolf give tongue behind, and gal- 
loping back, I found him at bay with the leopard, im- 
mediately beneath where I had fired at him. He was 
very severely wounded, and had slipped down into the 
river bed and doubled back, whereby he had thrown 
out both the dogs and myself. As I approached, he 
flew out upon Wolf and knocked him over, and then, 
running up the bed of the river, he took shelter in a 
thick bush. Wolf, however, followed him, and at this 
moment my other dogs having heard the shots, came 
up from camp, and bayed at him fiercely. He sprang 
out upon them, and then crossed the river bed, taking 
shelter beneath some large tangled roots on the oppo- 
site bank. As he crossed the river I put a third bullet 
into him, firing from the saddle, and as soon as he came 
to bay I gave him a fourth, which finished him. In the 
conflict, however, the unfortunate Alert, who was still 
going on three legs, with his breast laid bare by the 
first waterbuch, was wounded as usual, getting his face 
torn open. 



172 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

The leopard is not unfrequently taken in traps of 
various kinds. Most commonly, however, these are 
constructed of large stones and timber, on much the 
same principle as the common rat-trap. On the beast 
being thus captured by the Cape Colonists, notice is 
usually given to the neighbors, who assemble at the 
spot, when the creature is baited by all the curs in the 
vicinity, in order to train them to meet it in the field ; 
but it seldom dies without first killing or severely 
maiming one or more of its assailants. 

At other times, we are told by Lichtenstein : " The 
leopard is taken by hanging a piece of raw flesh upon a 
bush, in the midst of which an assegai is so ingeniously 
fastened, the sharp point being upward, that when the 
panther springs at the meat he falls upon the iron, and 
is struck by it to the heart." 

Notwithstanding the naturally savage disposition of 
the leopard, he is capable of being domesticated and 
tamed when captured young and judiciously managed, 
as I myself can testify, having reared one of these 
animals. It is true that, like the chetah, or hunting- 
leopard, of which presently, he was fond of a fowl, pig, 
or puppy, and managed to snap up numbers that came 
feeding or gambolling unsuspiciously in the neighbor- 
hood of his kennel, when, with an unerring blow of his 
paw, he would knock his unhappy victim down, and 
the next moment fasten his teeth in its neck with the 
force of a vice. I have myself stood by his side when 
an unlucky cur came within his reach, and nothing but 
forcibly separating his jaws would make him relinquish 
his hold, and that long after life was extinct in his 
prize. Yet he was very tame, allowing any one almost 



THE CHETAH. 1 73 

to approach, caress, and stroke his sleek and glossy- 
sides, and enjoyed very much a romp with me or the 
full-grown doo-s, some of which seemed to relish the fun 
nearly as much as he himself. This animal found its 
way to England, and, for aught I know, may now be 
an inmate of that interesting collection of wild beasts 
to be found so well and humanely cared for in the 
Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park, London. 

The chetah, or hunting-leopard, of the Cape Colony 
(Felis jubatd), which Harris tells us is similar in appear- 
ance to that of India, is about the size of a greyhound. 
The belly and inside of the extremities white, the rest 
pale yellow studded with small black spots, larger over 
the back and on the outside of the thighs. As with 
its congener, the leopard, it confines itself chiefly to 
mountainous districts, where it preys on the rock- 
rabbit and such of the antelopes as it can contrive to 
circumvent ; and when it takes up its abode in the 
vicinity of the colonists or natives, it is very destruc- 
tive both to the sheep-fold and the hen-roost. 
Though of a savage and intractable nature, the chetah 
in India and other Eastern countries is regularly 
trained to the chase, and proves a valuable ally to the 
sportsman. Though somewhat out of place in these 
pages, perhaps what follows, showing the manner in 
which the creature acts, may not be altogether with- 
out interest to the reader. 

" On one occasion," says Harris, " I saw three 
chetahs in the field. Coming on a herd of antelopes, 
one of them was quickly unhooded and loosed from 
his bonds. As soon as he perceived the deer, he 
dropped quietly off the cart on the opposite side to 



174 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

that on which they stood, and approached them at a 
slow crouching canter, masking himself at every bush 
and irregularity that lay in his way. As soon, however, 
as they began to show alarm he quickened his pace, 
and was in the midst of them at a few bounds. He 
singled out a doe and ran it close for about two hun- 
dred yards ; w r hen he reached it he, with a single blow 
of his paw rolled it over, and in an instant was sucking 
the life-blood from its throat. One of the other chetahs 
was slipped at the same time, but after four or five des- 
perate bounds, by which he nearly reached his prey, he 
suddenly gave up the pursuit and came growling sulkily 
back to the wagon. On these occasions, and when the 
deer is pulled down, a keeper runs us, hoods the chetah, 
cuts the victim's throat, and securing some of the blood 
in a wooden ladle, thrusts it under the leopard's nose. 
The antelope is then dragged away, while the chetah 
is rewarded with a leg for his pains." 

My own experiences, however, as to the teachable 
qualities of the chetah, are altogether at variance with 
those generally ascribed to it ; and I had a good oppor- 
tunity of judging of the nature and habits of the animal, 
as an acquaintance of mine brought up one in my im- 
mediate vicinity, than which a fiercer or more intracta- 
ble brute never came under my notice. Its disposi- 
tion, in fact, was the very opposite to that of the leopard 
spoken of a page or two back. But, then, it is not of 
course fair to judge of a whole species by a single individ- 
ual. Moreover, the animal in question was much teased 
and annoyed, more especially by the natives, whom he 
learned to hate with the most deadly hatred ; and, unfor- 
tunately, several children were bitten by him in a fearful 



THE WILD-CAT. 1 75 

manner, one, if not more of them, dying from the 
wounds it inflicted. But, indeed, with the exception 
of myself and one or two others, not a European dared 
to approach within his reach. Kindness and gentle- 
ness had no effect upon this fierce brute, and it was 
only by completely cowing his nature that we ventured 
to interfere with him. Now and then he would man- 
age to break, or otherwise free himself, from his bonds, 
when, with fearful yells and imprecations, the terror- 
stricken natives would be seen running wildly to and 
fro in search of shelter ; but I never remember him 
doing any mischief to the people on such occasions. 
Woe, however, betide any smaller animal, such as a 
puppy, a pig, or a fowl, that then crossed his path. 
The chetah in question unfortunately succeeded one 
day in escaping, never to be recovered ; and from its 
fearlessness of man and local knowledge it became more 
destructive to the hen-roost and the sheep-fold than 
one in 'its wild state would have been. 

The wild-cat (Fe lis cat us) was common in the neigh 
borhood of Otjimbingue, and is generally distributed 
over Damara and Great Namaqua Land, and, indeed, 
throughout most parts of Southern Africa. As soon as 
evening sets in, or even before darkness has enveloped 
nature in her nightly shroud, a harsh, wild, and disa 
greeable cry often greets the ear of the wanderer, and 
adds greatly to the dreariness of an African solitude ; it 
is that of the wild-cat calling to her mate, or others of 
her congeners. 

There is probably not a more destructive animal to 
the poultry-yard, pigeon-house, and even to the sheep- 
pen (which it not unfrequently enters for the purpose 



176 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

of killing the young lambs and kids), than the wild-cat. 
It is said to have an especial relish for the heads of 
birds, often leaving the rest of the body untouched. It 
sometimes takes up its quarters in the immediate 
neighborhood of man, and unless quickly dislodged or 
killed, will prove a serious evil to a homestead. I re- 
member a case in point. One of my servants always 
kept a number of fowls, which were generally housed in 
a small shed abutting on his cottage. For a long time 
great depredations were committed among the birds, 
and knowing the thievish propensities of the natives, 
the Damaras w r ere generally thought to be the culprits, 
though never detected. One night, however, hearing 
a terrible clucking and fluttering of wings in the hen- 
house, the man hastily dressed himself, and, with candle 
and gun in hand, rushed into the shed. The first sight 
that met him was the headless trunk of his favorite 
cock, quickly followed by those of others, and, on look- 
ing upward, he espied to his surprise a huge wild-cat 
perched between two hens, who 'were apparently par- 
alyzed with fear. Delighted at having at last discov- 
ered the real depredator, and having an opportunity 
of punishing the wily, persevering, and daring marauder, 
it may be well supposed that he lost no time in giving 
him his quietus. The skin now graces my collection. 

The wild-cat is an exceedingly fierce and spiteful 
animal, and will not unfrequently turn upon his pursu- 
ers, be they men or dogs, when hard pressed. St. John, 
in his " Highland Sports," mentions a remarkable in- 
stance of the beast's courage, ferocity, and tenacity of 
life. " I have heard many stories," writes this author, 
11 of their attacking and severely wounding a man when 



AFRICAN WILD-CATS. 1 77 

their escape has been cut off. Indeed, a wild-cat once 
flew at me in the most determined manner. I was 
fishing at a river in Sutherlandshire, and, in passing 
from one pool to another, had to climb over some rock 
and broken kind of ground. In doing so I sank through 
some rotten heather and moss up to my knees, almost 
upon a wild-cat, who was concealed under it. I was 
quite as much startled as the animal herself could be, 
when I saw the wild-looking beast rush out from be- 
tween my feet, with every hair on her body standing on 
end, making her look twice as large as she really was. 
I had three small Skye terriers with me, who imme- 
diately gave chase and pursued her till she took refuge 
in a corner of the rocks, where, perched in a kind of 
recess out of reach of her enemies, she stood with her 
hair bristled, and spitting and growling like a common 
cat. Having no weapon with me, I laid down my rod, 
cut a good sized stick, and proceeded to dislodge her. 
As soon as I was within six or seven feet of the place, 
she sprang straight at my face, over the dogs' heads. 
Had I not struck her in mid-air as she leaped at me, I 
should probably have got some severe wound. As it 
was, she fell with her back half broken among the dogs, 
who, with my assistance, despatched her. I never saw 
an animal fight so desperately, or one which was so 
difficult to kill. If a tame cat has nine lives, a wild-cat 
must have a dozen." 

The skin of the African wild-cat is probably not 
equal in value to that obtained from the same animal 
in colder parts of the world. Nevertheless, the fur is 
soft and warm, and accordingly the skin is much prized 
by the natives, who convert it into carosses. Very 
8* 



178 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

large numbers of wild-cats are annually destroyed in 
Damaraland, but being a prolific animal, the popula- 
tion scanty, and food abundant, it does not appear to 
decrease, as the case is in more civilized and populous 
countries. Like the domestic cat, it produces at a 
litter an uncertain number of kittens, sometimes only 
two or three, at others double the nnmber. 

[The Editor would here remark that though An- 
dersson makes no mention in his " Notes of Travel " 
of having killed large game at this period, either in the 
vicinity of Otjimbingue or elsewhere, it would appear 
from a letter to a friend, now lying before me, that, 
when on short excursions from home, he met with 
considerable success with antelopes, for he says: "I 
have lately returned from a short shooting excursion, 
during which I saw much game, but shot wretchedly. 
The number of koodoos (you will remember the 
noble creature from Wood's beautiful picture in 
' Lake N'gami ') that I met with almost exceeds belief. 
Some of the scenes that I witnessed, strongly re- 
minded me of a well-stocked deer-park in England. 
Thus I have counted upward of fifty koodoos in a two 
hours' ride, out of which perhaps there no were less 
than twenty stags. The koodoo, when seen in its native 
wilds, is truly a magnificent beast. But notwithstand- 
ing my vile shooting, I carried away some fine heads, 
which I am about to present to my wife, who is 
clamorous for losses sustained ; for, you must know, I 
was compelled to part with my former very handsome 
collection of heads and skulls for bread. I think I have 
already told you I can ride on horseback pretty well ; 
the only drawback is the shape of my artificial boot, 



andersson's letter. 179 

which has a deep hollow between heel and the toe, 
into which the stirrup is continually slipping, thus 
causing me to lose command of one leg. But, not- 
withstanding, I fairly rode down a gemsbok, one of the 
fastest of African antelopes, the other day."] 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Departure of elephant-hunters for Ondonga — Accident to Andersson — 
Departure for Ovampo Land — Arrival at Jacongava — Omapjee — 
"Wild dogs and koodoo — Remarkable flowers — Huge snake killed — A 
gemsbok shot — Wagon stuck fast in the mud — Bushmen come to 
bivouac — Arrival in Ovampo Land — Escape of Andersson's people 
from Samuel. 

BUT it is high time, after this long digression, to 
return to my little narrative. Latterly, the 
elephant-hunters, my best customers, had made On- 
donga, as the residence of the chief of Ovampo Land 
was called, their head-quarters, it being a convenient 
centre from whence to make excursions in quest of the 
beasts in question. As a further inducement, the chief 
was known to be exceedingly well disposed toward 
Europeans, and corn and vegetables could always be 
obtained there, which was not the case in Damaraland, 
where, indeed, little besides cattle was procurable from 
the natives. 

Knowing all this, and that the overland route to 
the Cape was unsafe, and that there was now no longer 
a field for the adventurous trader at Otjimbingue, I 
determined on following my friends to Ondonga, for 
which market I, when at Cape Town, had laid in a 
good stock of suitable goods. But just as I was on the 
point of starting, news of the attack of the Hottentots 
upon the Europeans, as mentioned in a preceding chap- 



ELEPHANT-HUNTERS. l8l 

ter, reached me, and of course put an end, for the time 
at least, to my projected journey. It is true I was per- 
haps strong enough to defend myself against any attack 
these scoundrels might make on me ; but I should have 
gained little, even if successful in beating them off. 
This unexpected delay, coupled with the trivial amount 
of barter to be done at Otjimbingue, left much time on 
my hands, in which I occasionally absented myself for 
a few days from home, the better to enjoy the pleasure 
of the chase. During the last of these trips, however, 
I had the misfortune to fall from my horse, or, rather, 
he fell on me, bruising in a frightful manner my still 
very indifferently cured leg. It was a mercy, indeed, 
that the leg was not altogether smashed ; as it was, the 
accident entirely crippled me for upward of a month, 
and caused me great pain for a long time afterward. 

This very long and compulsory stay at Otjimbingue 
would, as may be supposed, have been monotonous 
and tedious enough had it not been for my literary 
labors — the securing of specimens of Natural History, 
and in improving my knowledge of the habits of the 
birds and beasts found in the vicinity — which occupa- 
tion enabled me, pleasantly enough, to while away 
many an idle hour. On the 22d of September, 1866, 
however, I despatched my people with the wagons to 
Ondonga, and on the 29th of December of the same 
year I myself set off for the same destination. 

[With the exception of three chapters on special 
subjects, inserted hereafter, Andersson's " Notes of 
Travel " end here, and the only account we have of his 
after proceedings is to be gathered from his journals, 
which I have copied all but verbatim ; but these (his 



1 82 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

journals) seem never to have been corrected, even in 
the slightest degree, by him, since they were written, 
which will account for any little discrepancy or ambi- 
guity that may be found therein. And though, owing 
to ill health and his disabled state, which prevented 
Andersson from exerting himself or enjoying the pleas- 
ures of the chase, as he was wont to do in former times, 
these journals may not contain much matter to interest 
the general reader, still it is to be hoped their contents 
will prove acceptable not only to the naturalist and the 
sportsman, but also to the future traveller in Ovampo 
and Damara Land, as showing the manifold difficulties 
he will probably have to encounter, and the risks he will 
run from the insalubrity of the climate, etc. — Editor.'] 

Journal. — Journey from Otjimbingue to Ondonga. 

" Saturday, 2§th December. — Effected with great 
difficulty a start from Otjimbingue a little before noon, 
and reached Omarun all right after about four hours' 

steady travelling. Mr. K and the .' trek oxen,' 

though poor, answered well enough ; however, the only 
real good front ox that we have the herd managed to 
lose last night. The Damara sent in search of the 
animal returned without it ; must start him off again 
to-morrow. The country begins to look most cheerful ; 
everything is green. How different from my last visit 
to these parts! I do love it during the rainy season ; 
one feels, and really gets new life. The weather is 
pleasantly cool, even slightly chilly during the night. 

" Sunday, loth December. — Left bivouac at an early 
hour ; reached Jacongava after about three and a half 



JOURNAL. 183 

hours' travel. Shot a fine specimen of Agthoracicies, 
but did not get a sight of nest. January, Hans, Abra- 
ham, and Kamapge joined us in the afternoon, but went 
away again, intending to be with us in earnest to-mor- 
row, except the first-named, who will go ahead with a 
view of collecting the people, and slaughter things. 

"Monday, $ist December. — Left Jacongava at 
3.15 P. M. ; bivouacked at 5.55, under ' Sugar Loaf 
Peak,' which I took it into my head to ascend, a height 
(and many parts quite perpendicular) of not less than 
from 1,200 to 1,500 feet above the plain. Prodigious 
exertion, considering my crippled condition. But the 
sight one gets from the top of this lofty hill is worthy 
of some trouble and pains. In fact, Damaraland, at 
least this portion of it, here lies like a map spread out 
at one's feet. It affords unquestionably the best view 
of the country of all the numerous hills that I have as- 
cended. Unfortunately I had not time enough to con- 
template the fine prospect at my leisure, as I had nu- 
merous bearings to take. The afternoon, however, was 
lovely, and though the descent was troublesome and 
painful, I enjoyed, on the whole, my trip very much. I 
trust only I shall not feel the effects to-morrow. 

" Tuesday, \st January. — In a few months I shall 
have passed my fortieth year. Forty years! an 
ordinary lifetime; and what have I done? A bank- 
rupt in purse and health ; and as to what I have per- 
formed, it is apparently very little ; and yet I have 
worked desperately hard, setting danger, fatigue, pain, 
and troubles at nought. God help me, poor fellow ! 
But regrets are vain, and I ought not to indulge in 
them. Let me try and make the most of the few 



1 84 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

years left to me here on earth, should it please God to 
spare me. Could but peace and quiet be obtained for 
this unhappy land I might yet do well, and leave my 
wife and children provided for. I long to be settled in 
this land, in order that I may ascertain what can be 
made of Omappi and Oronger I don't half like to 
leave for the Cape until I get some one to occupy both 
places. I ought to have a garden as well as corn land 
ready ere many months are passed. I, moreover, want 
to leave the trees at Omappi. A kraal ought to be 
constructed for strangers, that they may not pitch their 
1 tents ' at random, and thus wantonly cut down the 
bush. Left bivouac at 8.40 ; reached Katondeka at 
9.50. Road very stony; abundance of water in lime- 
stone pits. Omatake can be seen from here (Troch., 
17, 10J). Off again at 3.25 ; came to a vley at 5.20 
(Troch., 79 92). This place must hold water for many 
months after the rains have ceased. Off a third time 
at 6.40. Bivouacked at 7.40 ; but this must be an 
error, as we have been at least an hour and a half on 
the road. Travelled well. Feel very poorly. 

" Wednesday, 2d January. — Left bivouac at 6.5. 
Came to a pit in a small river at 7.40, called Otjovar- 
gande. Delayed here about twenty minutes, after 
which we journeyed on till 9.15. Travelled well; 
country bushy and stony, and road consequently 
circuitous. Off again at 10.30. Did not reach Kat- 
jongo (Otjakatjongo) till 1. 10 P. M. Off again at 4.5. 
Bivouacked at 6.35. ' Veldt' very dry hereabouts : the 
rain has as yet been very partial. Some men came up 

* Two small properties lately presented to Andersson by the Damara 
chief, of which we shall have more to say presently. — Ed. 



OMAPPI AND ORONGE. 1 85 

with ostrich feathers ; obtained about a pound in 
barter, which is an unexpected windfall. 

" Thursday, 3d January. — Left bivouac 6.22 : 
reached Omappi at 9.22. Travelled rather slowly ; 
country somewhat dry hereabouts, but the small rivers 
in the neighborhood have rain. Set about making a 
1 stranger's kraal ' without delay ; have selected a spot 
a little below the fountain, and near a pit of water 
which is never dry. 

" Friday, 4th Ja7tuary.-^Desper3.te\y hot ; it is 
evident we shall have a change with the new moon, 
perhaps to-night. Broke ground near the fountain 
with a view of testing how far one can grow corn 
without irrigation. I don't see why the experiment 
should not succeed during the rainy season. Kamoja 
and Jacob returned late in the afternoon ; the former 
had killed a koodoo and wounded a giraffe. 

" Saturday, tyh January. — A slight rain fell last 
evening, as I had fully anticipated, and this afternoon 
it came down in torrents for about three hours. I am 
so glad we had comfortably finished the sowing and 
planting ; and if corn can really be grown without irri- 
gation, it will now have a fair chance. We have let a 
stream of water into the enclosure from the fountain ; 
but after the rain had ceased I caused it to be diverted 
to its original source. I feel half inclined to leave a 
man or two behind, and yet have no one to be trusted 
that I could possibly spare. • 

" Sunday, 6th January. — Little or no rain fell during 
the night, though it looked threatening. To-day also 
the sky looks lowering. Kamoja brought in a portion 



1 86 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

of the koodoo he had shot on the 4th ; but I fear it will 
spoil in this unpropitious weather. 

" While reading the Bible, I was suddenly startled by 
loud shouts of ' Gun ! gun ! ' coming evidently from 
Jacob, who was washing clothes at the fountain. The 
Damaras at once set off, and while looking around try- 
ing to account for so extraordinary an alarm, I espied, 
to my utter astonishment, within less than a hundred 
paces of me, a koodoo chased by two wild dogs, who 
were in such close pursuit as to jeopardize momentarily 
the poor creature's life. John endeavored to cut off the 
animal, but the dog ' Snook ' had just caught sight of 
and was ranging alongside of it, which prevented the 
man from firing. Thus chased, the koodoo described a 
perfect circle round the wagons, followed not only by 
my own dog, but the * wilde kunde,' which fearlessly 
pushed on right through the people. Shouting at the 
top of my voice, I drew the attention of the gunners 
to the whereabouts of the quarry, which was at last 
successfully turned and shot within one hundred yards 
of us. It was a fine full-grown cow, and we were now, 
therefore, well off for meat. I had the carcass conveyed 
to the wagon for inspection and measurement. 

"Monday, yth January. — Set all my people to work 
in clearing out the ' vley ' above the fountain, and, as 
the colonial men arrived, they severally and jointly, of 
their own accord, assisted in the operation, and by sun- 
down, therefore, a great deal had been effected. But I 
fear it will take a month to clear out the place thor- 
oughly, it being filled up with such a mass of dung, clay, 
and stones. The most remarkable feature is the qual- 
ity of the latter, thrown in apparently purposely. I 



SINGULAR FLOWER. 1 87 

have lately discovered two deep water holes in the very 
top of the rock, and as fhey seem to me higher than 
the general level of the ' vley,' I doubt not but that 
they may be made subservient to the filling the same. 
I foresee the usefulness of this piece of water, if it were 
thoroughly cleared and filled. In the course of time I 
hope to see it, or rather the sides, covered with vegeta- 
tion, and perhaps may live to see the children scull a 
boat oh it. Cloudy atmosphere. A tremendous flight 
of locusts passed like a searching fire within view of 
the place. It sickens the heart, such devastating and 
harassing sights. 

" Tuesday, St/i January. — Sent Hans and Kamoja 
out in search of game. The former brought in a stem- 
bok only; Kamoja ditto. Have done another good 
day's work at the ' vley.' Rather hot. In the evening 
talked to the colonial men about their wishes as regards 
my place on the Omarim river. Set before them my 
conditions, to which they did not seem to object. The 
corn is appearing above ground. Have strengthened 
the fence. Did a little more to the, ' vley,' which 
begins to show the effect of our efforts ; still it will take 
another month toget it quite clear. 

" Wednesday, gt/i January. — Left Omappi at 1.25 ; 
bivouacked at 6.20, perhaps fifteen to twenty minutes 
delay. ' Veldt ' beautiful, and much superior to any- 
thing we have yet seen. It has evidently rained heavily 
in these parts. 

" Thursday, loth January. — Started from our bivouac 
at 11.35; reached Omavuram exactly after an hour's 
travel. Held on till 3 P. M., when we halted a short 
time. Observed in our progress a most singular flower, 



1 88 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

resembling a Neileca. The flower itself was very plain, 
but surrounded by a very pretty curled fringe of a yel- 
low color. I wish I were as much a botanist as a zoo- 
logist, and I doubt not my present journey would yield 
me a rich harvest. This valley looks rich. Off again 
at 4.10. Reached Epako at 5 (here Troch. stands at 
95, 23 J). Sky rainy-looking. All the hunters unsuccess- 
ful ; Hans wounded a gemsbok. Saw some giraffes. 

"Friday, nth January. — Showery during the night 
and the day looks lowering. Hans killed a gemsbok as 
we travelled along. Left Epako at 8 ; stopped at 9.15 
to cut up gemsbok. Reached Otjim at 12 (Troch., 69, 
22J). Delay about forty minutes. Damara werfts 
here. Heavy rains all round. Fancy I have found a 
new species of lark, which has a very pleasant call-note, 
and secured a few. 

"Saturday, \2th January. — Left Otjim at 4.10 P. M. 
Reached Otuiova (made memorable to me years ago by 
the loss of a horse) at 8.5. Nearly half an hour's delay 
(Troch., 40, 49-J). Plenty of water, in fact, the river is 
running slightly. Observed a most magnificent creeper, 
with a leaf to match, being many inches in diameter 
each way, and of a whitish hue beneath. The flower is 
lilac and puce, approaching to crimson in the corolla. 
Collected a number of bulbs as we came along; I wish 
I had a garden to plant them in at once. Pity I don't 
know anything of botany, as I might enjoy myself very 
much with the flora of the country, which seems rather 
rich. Of birds and birds'-nests I can see none, which is 
singular, as the country appears most favorable. I never 
^saw a prettier place than that we have just left. Off 
again at 9. Came to a sudden halt at 10.40 in conse- 



A SNAKE KILLED. 1 89 

quence of a heavy shower of rain. I am disappointed, 
wishing to have slept and spent the Sunday at the next 
regular watering-place. Ascended a small granite 'Kopy! 
or rocky eminence, in the neighborhood, where I ob- 
served a new bird. 

"Sunday, \^th January. — It being Sunday, and the 
sky threatening more rain, we stay here for to-day. 
Obtained several birds'-nests ; but it is getting late, 
most birds having young, or the eggs are hard sat on. 
Heavy rains in the afternoon. The country is pretty 
hereabouts, being diversified by round granite ' kopies,' 
and bowlders. 

" Monday, i^th January. — Left bivouac at 6.5. 
Reached Kothongonika at 10.35 ; quite forty minutes 
delay. Road pretty fair (Troch., 90, 192-)- Pits here 
deep, but they are nearly all in disuse. The small 
river that passes this place is said to find its way to 
Ongoo-ona ; it may probably take its rise a little east 
of the range of hills seen to the eastward. As the 
cattle did not return till late, we bivouacked here. 
People out in search of game, but found nothing. 

" 'Tuesday, i$th January. — Left Kothongonika at 
5.40. Came to a halt at 9.35 (Troch., 55, 99J), at a 
small water course, the first we met with this morning. 
Country fine, but monotonous. The usual vegetation, 
acacia, much mingled with thornless, large-leaved 
trees. Omara and some other conspicuous hills are 
seen very clearly from this spot. Even Okonyenja was 
visible a short time before we halted. Killed a huge 
snake, seven feet ten inches long, said to be poisonous. 
Off again at 11 A. M. Reached Otjikongo at 3.30; 
perhaps ten minutes' delay. Part of road heavy 



190 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

(Troch., 14, 8 3 J). Found a large number of Berg- 
Damaras, and spoke to them of the passing of the 
wagons of white men, and also as to their camping 
near to Samuel, which they deny, but say they have 
heard the Bushmen ahead were in the habit of doing 
so. I am determined to put a stop to this ; kindness 
has evidently no effect on these ungrateful creatures. 
A slight shower of rain, and more evidently to be 
expected. 

" Wednesday, 16th January. — Went to the top of a 
neighboring ' kopy,' where I had a fine view of most of 
the surrounding country; can even make out the west 
extremity of Qmuvereredo and Omatako. Men out 
hunting ; but just now there is no game in this neigh- 
borhood. Left Otjukango at 2.20 P. M. Bivouacked 
at 7.40. Travelled steadily : no water, but met with 
several places that after good rutins would hold the 
precious liquid. The sky looks threatening, and rain 
has fallen this afternoon some distance ahead. 

^Thursday, \Jth January. — Left bivouac at 6.35. 
Reached Kotjorongonde at 10.45 (Troch. 25, 42 J). 
Travelled steadily. Mounted my horse in hopes of 
getting a shot — was not disappointed ; but fairly 
missed a stag hartebeest with both barrels. My 
people, with one exception, were equally unfortunate ; 
Kamapge, however, knocked over a gemsbok and 
badly wounded a quagga. Saw much game, harte- 
beests, gemsboks, zebras, etc. Very unwell. Fear 
this ride has done me harm. 

" Heavy rains during the night ; I am sorry for my 
poor people, and would give them my last coat and 
shirt were there fewer that stood in need of covering, 



TORRENTS OF RAIN. I9I 

and if I was certain of being able to replace the articles 
in this country. The rain, nevertheless, comes most 
opportunely, as I hope it will supply us with water 
during the next ordinarily waterless stage of twenty 
miles. Many Berg-Damaras here. January tells me 
he has heard that these men killed more than one of 
Mr. Green's trek-oxen, and that he passed over the 
offence unpunished. Can hardly believe it, as it would 
be the height of bad policy to do so for fear of a 
repetition of the same. 

" Picked up a good many shells * this morning, but 
they seem to me only one or two kinds. How difficult 
they are to find ! It is of no use to follow the ordinary 
rule for their detection. The only time, apparently, 
that they can be searched for with any likelihood of 
success is after a shower of rain, when they sometimes 
crawl about. Spent a very wretched night, and this 
morning I am very ill — no dieting avails. Stormy 
throughout the past day, and the night looks threat- 
ening. 

"Friday, iStk January. — The night, somewhat 
contrary to expectation, turned out fine, and I was in 
hopes we should have had a fine morning, but we were 
doomed to disappointment ; for just as we had in- 
spanned the rain came down in torrents and continued 
unabated for about an hour-and-a-half. Left Kotjoron- 
gondi at 6.5 — Came to a halt at 10.5 at a valley, river 
running parallel between the low range on our right, 
and the larger to our left. It must have its source 

* What sort of shells does Andersson speak of both here and else- 
whsre ? Can they be the cowrie-shells which serve as coin in parts of 
Africa ? — Ed. 



192 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

some distance off. No delay, but road heavy in con- 
sequence of the rains ; also winding. Saw hartebeestes 
and ostriches, and tracks of at least half-a-dozen lions. 
Off again at 12 ; halted for the night at 2.10 at a small 
water on a branch of the aforesaid Omurambe — the 
first water we have seen. Ascended a small ' kopy,' 
with a view of getting bearings — saw numerous tracks 
of koodoos ; one of the men observed the new buck, 
but, as usual, he got away unharmed. 

"Saturday, lgt/i January. — Left bivouac at 6.50; 
came to a halt at 10.55 (Troch., 103, 62^). No delay — 
travelled steadily, but slowly — not quite sure of the 
time to half-an-hour, as my watch once stopped. Road 
heavy in consequence of rains during the past night. 
Course nearly parallel to the small, low ridge we crossed 
yesterday afternoon. Off again at 1 ; came to a halt 
at 3.50, the weather looks very threatening, 

"Sunday, 20th January. — Heavy rains before mid- 
night last night ; I had bivouacked in a nasty place, the 
grass and other vegetation being so luxuriant as to 
render moving about inconvenient. It must have 
rained early in these parts. The soil on the Omuramba 
we have been following is black as pitch, and evidently 
very rich — what would I not give for an acre or two of 
it at Omappi ! Left bivouac at 5.45. Travelling diffi- 
cult in consequence of the ' doorslagt ' (inundation) ; and 
as we approach the fountain Naidaus, the wheels of the 
vehicle not unfrequently sunk to the naves, and if we 
had had a load we most assuredly should have stuck 
fast. Road open till within less than an hour of the 
fountain, which we reached at 9.45 (Troch., 241, 93^) — 
could not find a dry spot on which to outspan. It has 



TERRIBLE THUNDERSTORM. 193 

rained fearfully here lately ; I wish we were safely 
away, but the weather continues very threatening — 
bagged the first couple of ducks I have seen this sea- 
son, and dined on one with great relish. It is the first 
meat meal I have tasted for many days ; but I fear the 
consequences of such an indulgence. 

"Monday, 21st January. — Left Naidaus at 6 A. M., 
but we had hardly gone twenty minutes before we stuck 
irretrievably in the ' doorslagt ; ' and, while trying hard 
to get out, the rain came down and made matters still 
worse. Two hundred or three hundred yards off it 
seemed to be a little drier, and there I sent the people 
and the cattle, I myself remaining with the wagon, a 
prisoner almost, for, excepting getting into the mud 
over my knees, I could not move. Our position was 
very awkward, to say the least of it, for should it rain 
during the night, of which there seemed every proba- 
bility, we might not be able to extricate the wagon for 
days to come ; however, it is not the first time my 
patience has been tried. The herd reported having 
seen and called to two Bushmen, but they bolted. I 
am not anxious for myself or my people, but seriously 
so for our cattle ; these once lost, our situation would 
indeed be desperate. It is seldom that one can recover 
them from such expert marauders, as they have a way 
of scattering with their ill-gotten booty in so many 
directions that pursuit becomes almost hopeless. 

" Tuesday, 22d January. — A terrible thunderstorm 
passed to the northward of us at dusk last evening. I 
watched it with the utmost anxiety, but fortunately 
only a slight shower overtook us; and, thank God, 
after a few hours' exertion we got the wagon out safely, 
9 



194 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

though not until we had unloaded everything, but even 
now the situation of our camp is anything but satisfac- 
tory. It is true we are on hardish ground, but within 
a few paces of us it is so saturated with wet as to be all 
but impassable. Two Bushmen made their appearance ; 
spoke to them about their relative position to the white 
men and Samuel. In reply they said the latter was no 
friend of theirs, but in this matter I won't altogether 
take their word. 

" Thousands of shells about — how difficult to find, 
but when once discovered, what quantities may not be 
secured! I cannot satisfy myself that there are more 
than one or two kinds — five say. At one time it 
threatened to rain, but it passed away, leaving a pretty 
serene sky. I wonder how long we shall be stuck here ; 
the Bushmen declare that the country ahead is one con- 
tinuous ' doorslagt ! ' What's to be done ? If we can- 
not get on, it will be necessary to send messengers to 
Ondonga. 

" Wednesday, 23d January. — Left our sticking place 
at 12.55 — road for the first hour or two very bad, as 
we were frequently on the point of coming to anchor 
in the mud ; but afterward it became tolerable. Un- 
fortunately, we followed Trompo's direction, and, as a 
matter of course, went all wrong. I insisted on turn- 
ing right in toward the mountains, and had sent Abra- 
ham a-head to examine the road, but he did not return 
till the mischief was done. Bivouacked at 7.5 — found- a 
guinea-fowl's nest, containing no fewer than fifteen 
eggs ; Abraham and Ryker killed a gemsbok. 

" Thursday, 2/^th January. — Left bivouac at 5. 30; 
got to Nondas at 8.35. This is the place Mr. Hahn 



PICTURESQUE SPOT. 195 

intends to make a missionary station for the Bushmen ; 
and it certainly is one of the most picturesque spots in 
Damaraland. It is situated on a splendid grass flat, 
surrounded on two sides by distant mountains, and the 
pasturage in the vicinity is illimitable ; but as a take 
off, the water lies deep, and I see neither garden 
ground nor wood. Thousands of shells in the neigh- 
borhood ; one seems different from those I have 
already met with. Off again at 1.45 ; reached a water 
at 6.30. Road excessively stony — my inside quite 
shaken to pieces. We bivouacked near the spot, and 
will probably pass the mountain to-morrow. 

"Friday, 2$th January. — Left bivouac at 6.5; 
came to a halt at 10.43 m tne bed of what appeared an 
1 Omurambe ' No water here — perhaps half-an-hour's 
delay, having lost the road. Off again at 12.25. 
Reached some pits at 3.30 ; about fifteen minutes' 
delay. At this place Mr. Green once killed several 
elephants — a strong shooting ' screen ' in ruins may 
still be seen. Passed to-day a spot where a number of 
Totties (Hottentots) had evidently encamped; it was 
probably the party who- followed up my wagons. 
Very poorly — once so faint as hardly to be able to hold 
up my head. 

" Saturday, 26th January. — Left bivouac (Korovi- 
car) at 6— came to a ' vley ' at 9.15. Fully half-an- 
hour's delay in cutting a road, which, moreover, was 
very circuitous. Travelled unusually slow — we are 
leaving the hills fast behind us ; even Otzikoto, they 
say, is past ; if so, I and. Mr. Galton differ widely as to 
its position ; he lays it down much farther west 
than I do. 



I96 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

" Sunday, 27th January. — I find I have lost a day ; 
it should be Sunday, not Saturday — am sorry for the 
blunder, as I wished to have passed it quietly. As it 
is, we must get to a regular water ; off again, there- 
fore, at 12.5. Reached Evambo at 3. P. M. — quite 
forty minutes' delay — road very stony and ziz-zag ; 
distance to-day (exclusive of delays), five hours — find 
my dead reckoning comes out wonderfully accurate. 
I have recognized the most conspicuous peaks in the 
Omanbonde range, which was carefully fixed, and it 
has proved of immense service to me ; ascended a tree, 
whence I obtained a splendid view of the mountains we 
have just left behind us — can perceive, also, some low- 
ranges to the westward in the direction of Sarskab. 
Water boils at 206 degrees Therm, in the shade ; 
shortly after our arrival, 85, height above sea, 3,085 
feet. This Evambo resmbles Otjkoto on a large scale, 
in fact it must be a little lake after heavy rains ; but it 
has only the roundness of its form in common with 
Otjkoto, for the water is quite shallow and the ground 
muddy ; still these circular spots are very singular. 
How are they formed ? I can only conceive by the 
ground falling away beneath ; in other words, strong 
springs, or even bodies of water, undermine the locali- 
ties, but the former still remain to be accounted for. 

"Monday, 2%th January. — Left Evambo at 1.18 — 
reached Kajothononutyi at 10. 10. Travelled famously, 
and the road was very good and not so circuitous as 
usual. Part of country very fine ; but almost devoid 
of animal life — a bird is truly a rara avis. Off again at 
1. 1 5 ; after three hours' travel came to a pit, with about 
a northern course ; hence, very westerly, quite north- 



GREAT ONAMOTONI. 1 97 

west, I fancy — road execrable at the beginning, stony, 
bushy, and ' doorslagt.' It had rained heavily in one 
locality. Large park-like tracts of omutali trees — 
bivouacked at 6.25. By climbing a tree I could just 
catch a last glimpse of post range, the last landmark 
hence to Ondonga — raining to the westward and 
southward. 

" Tuesday, 2gth January. — Left bivouac at 5.20 A. M. 
— reached Little Onamotoni at -9.45, quite twenty 
minutes' delay — road winding ; but though it passes 
through a very woody part, pretty well cleared of 
bushes, we clear away the last remnants of obstruc- 
tions. By climbing a tree I can just make out Onon- 
dova flat, and the east extremity of Etoska. Another 
short half-hour's travel brought us to Great Onamotoni, 
the fountain passed by myself and Galton on our jour- 
ney to Ondonga, now some sixteen years ago. 

" What a noble place it is — fine open view toward 
Onondova. After very heavy rains the whole flat must, 
I fancy, be one immense sheet of water. I think I can 
detect large patches of it now ; herds of wildebeest in 
view; the men missed the fine bull. I understand that 
the road here takes a great sweep to the eastward. 
We had not been long outspanned before a terrific rain- 
and-hail storm came on — I am so glad we have got thus 
far, as such torrents could not help converting many of 
the flats that we have passed into one immense ' door- 
slagt.' At dusk Kamapge killed a bull wildebeest ; a 
most opportune reinforcement to our exhausted larder. 

" Wednesday, yzth January. — The water had much 
increased this morning on the flat ; in fact, it appeared 
to me to be steadily advancing. Found some new 



I98 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

shells after a very diligent search. In the afternoon it 
came on to rain heavily, and the night threatens to be 
dirty. 

" Thursday \ ^\st January. — Raining nearly through- 
out the night, and continued this morning till near noon, 
when it cleared a little. Some Bushmen were here yes- 
terday who informed us that Chykongo (the chief of 
the Ovampos) has sent a number of his men to attack 
Samuel, five of whose men have been to Ondonga at 
the command of Chykonga, who called them there 
with a view of instituting inquiry regarding their vil- 
lainous dealings with white men. The Bushmen further 
told us that the Ovampo have orders to try and kill 
Samuel if they don't find his ' werft ' too strong. I do 
hope Chykongo will earnestly exert himself to get the 
fellow out of the way. It would be foolish to try to 
make peace with such a faithless set ; nothing short of 
an utter extermination will ever give us peace and 
quiet in that quarter. Cattle and men driven half fran- 
tic with mosquitoes and a species of gad-fly which liter- 
ally swarm about these parts. 

" Left Amaloixe at 1.30. Scarcely had we entered 
on the flat before we got among rills of water, and 
about half-way we crossed a small river flowing waist- 
deep toward Etoska, which we found one immense 
sheet of water, though, of course, quite shallow. It 
was a pretty sight, and but once in a time to be met 
with in these parts of Africa. It has been, and contin- 
ues to be, a puzzle to me from whence proceeds this 
body of water. The relative height of these parts and 
of the river Okovango seems utterly to exclude the 
possibility of its coming from the latter. This flat lies 



OTJHAKO DOA MOSENGA. I99 

some four thousand feet above the sea, whereas the 
Okovango, even when struck by myself, cannot be the 
fourth of that height. Observed large numbers of 
water-fowl and waders. Came to a halt for the night 
at 7.45. This long stage will enable us to reach Otjhako 
doa Mosenga at an early hour to-morrow morning. 

"Friday, 1st February. — Left bivouac 5.45 ; reached 
the last-named place at 8.45. Overtaken by a small 
Ovampo caravan on the way to procure copper. They 
informed us that some of my friends the elephant-hunt- 
ers, as also one of my own wagons and people, are away 
to the Ovaguamli, hunting and bartering with the 
natives, I suppose. Much water on this flat likewise, 
and lots of water fowl. Journey on again at 11.40 — 
came to a halt for the night at 5.10, having fairly left 
the great flat behind us, and entered the last bush before 
coming into glorious Ondonga. On the way we saw 
many wildebeestes ; also found a new shell, a fine, large, 
and handsome species. 

" Having now entered Ovampoland, I despatched a 
messenger to the chief, Chykongo, informing him of our 
arrival ; and, while awaiting a message from him, had 
the satisfaction to receive a letter from my people, 
informing me they had reached Ondonga in safety. It 
would appear, however, they had had an almost mirac- 
ulous escape from the clutches of Samuel, who had fol- 
lowed their tracks for many days, and only desisted 
from the pursuit on finding himself unable to overtake 
them ; and as for some time past I had entertained the 
most serious apprehensions that they had fallen into his 
hands, I now made a solemn vow never again to expose 
them to risks not shared by myself. 



200 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

" Saturday, 2d February. — Wanted to have gone 
ahead on horseback, but finding myself unequal to a 
long ride must postpone it till to-morrow. Left bivouac 
at 6.5. Came to a halt: at 12 ; quite half-an-hour's 
delay. Road very sandy and bushy. Had several nar- 
row escapes with the wagon ; indeed, we damaged one 
of the steps. Off again at 1.45. Came to a halt at 
6.25 ; also about half-an-hour's delay. Road worse, if 
possible, than in the forenoon. It was quite touch-and- 
go in many places, and unfortunately the shaft oxen 
are bad. Disappointed at not reaching Ondonga ; but 
if we had gone on till dusk we should not have been 
so far off. Still very uneasy. It is now more than 
a month since I touched meat ; bread, or rather ' co- 
kies,' and now and then a little arrowroot, constitute 
my sole diet. 

" Sunday, 3d February. — With the first return of 
daylight I was in the saddle, eager not only to meet my 
people once more, but to gaze upon that country which, 
some sixteen years before, I had visited in company 
with my esteemed friend Galton, to whom the public is 
so much indebted for his valuable contributions to 
science. 

" Ovampoland, or rather Ondonga, as that portion 
of the country is commonly called, has since then under- 
gone many changes. Bloody civil wars had swept like 
a hurricane over its quiet rural beauties, immolating or 
dispersing one-half >of its industrial, gay-hearted, and in- 
offensive population, and leaving but the fame of the 
vast herds of cattle that once gave additional charms 
and importance to the country. The exactions and 
contributions of foreign auxiliaries called in by one or 



OVAMFO LAND. 201 

other of the contending parties, and the insidious and 
destructive ' lung sickness,' left but a small remnant of 
these, their chief wealth. Old Nangoro, the obese king 
spoken of by Mr. Galton, who was chieftain on my 
former sojourn here, had died under very suspicious 
circumstances, and more than one other ruler of the 
country had subsequently met with a tragical death. 
But there had now been peace for some years, and the 
country itself presented the same beautiful appearance 
as had enchanted me on our first becoming acquainted 
with it. The like magnificent trees, both forest and 
fruit, were observable everywhere, and the landscape, 
as heretofore, was dotted in all directions with patri- 
archal-looking hamlets, and further enlivened by groups 
of men, women, and children, occupied in their several 
vocations. The cheerful twitterings and warblings of 
numerous birds, moreover, added an additional charm 
to the scene. I have seen many lands and places, some 
perhaps, strictly speaking, more beautiful ; but among 
the extensive savannahs, or the interminable forests of 
South Africa, which so long has been my home, there 
was but one Ondonga. 

" To proceed. A few hours sharp riding brought 
me to my people, who were encamped near to the 
chief's ' werft,' and whom, with the exception of one or 
two down with slight fever, I was happy to find, in good 
health and spirits. Axel had, I ascertained, collected 
few eggs or shells, but a good many specimens of birds — 
among the rest three or four new species, and another 
example of the Stringonis Anderssonyx, the nondescript 
named after myself. An additional pleasure was afforded 
me on this occasion by meeting many of the elephant 
9* 



202 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

hunters, who had of late years made Ondonga their 
head-quarters ; and who, on hearing of my arrival in 
the country, had come to greet me. Some of them I 
had not met for years, Poor fellows ! they had labored 
hard to retrieve their broken fortunes, though with lit- 
tle success, as elephants had become scarce, and so 
excessively wild as to bid defiance to the most expe- 
rienced and persevering sportsmen. My friends were, 
moreover, excluded from the best ' veldt,' situated in 
the near vicinity to their inveterate enemies the Hot- 
tentots, and which, in consequence, they ventured not 
singly, or in small parties, to visit. As a set-off, how- 
ever, to the pleasure of thus meeting with my people 
and old acquaintances, I was sorry to hear that the 
late excessive rains were likely to produce a great deal 
of sickness in the country this year. As I afterward 
learned, indeed, not a few individuals had already 
fallen victims to fever, or were then suffering from its 
effects. Thus was a journey of very considerable extent, 
attended by some real danger and many inconveniences, 
speedily and safely accomplished ; and as by taking a 
route different from that pursued by Mr. Galton and my- 
self, I was enabled to rectify much of the map that I had 
constructed of Damaraland, besides adding largely to its 
details, which map I have since sent to the Royal Geo- 
graphical Society in London. As regards my researches 
in natural history, moreover, I was enabled to corrobo- 
rate much that was previously somewhat doubtful, 
as also to add no inconsiderable quantity of new mat- 
ter to my previous store. On the evening of this 
day, therefore, though still very ill in body, I retired to 
rest with great satisfaction, and truly grateful to Provi- 



MAP OF DAMARALAND. 203 

dence for the many mercies and blessings vouchsafed to 
me during my recent wanderings." 

[Here Andersson's journal ceases for awhile, and in 
this and the two succeeding chapters, we have a con- 
tinuation of his " Notes of Travel." — EditorI\ 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Chykongo — Appearance of the country — Description of the homestead — 
The chiefs werft — The soil — Agriculture — Times of scarcity — Fruit 
trees — Minerals — The flora and fauna — Ichthyology — Domestic 
animals — The inhabitants — Their amusements — Religion and 
superstition — Attack on Mr. Hahn's party. 

ON the evening of my arrival at Ondonga I 
received a visit from Chykongo, the paramount 
chief of Ovampoland. He is perhaps fifty years of age, 
but appears younger. His figure is commanding, 
though slightly inclined to corpulency, and his face 
intelligent ; but if the eyes are closely examined they 
will be found somewhat sinister in expression,, espe- 
cially if he is at all unpleasantly excited. But, taken 
altogether, the Ovampo ruler is certainly by far the 
most chief-like in aspect and bearing of all the native 
sovereigns between the Orange River and the Cunene, 
with whom I am acquainted. 

But Chykongo did not succeed to his present 
elevated position quietly. Immediately on Nangoro's 
death, which, as recently observed, I have reason to 
believe was sudden and unnatural, the sovereign sway 
was assumed by Chypanza, his elder brother, though I 
imagine this was quite in accordance with the law of 
succession in the country. There was at the time a 
strong party who inclined for another chief, at the head 
of which was Nakonjona (a remarkably intelligent and 



CHIEF OF OVAMPO LAND. 205 

fine-looking man), but Chypanza, dreading his influ- 
ence, caused him to be put out of the way. On this, 
the younger brother of the murdered man, the present 
chief Chykongo, sent for assistance to Jonker Afri- 
kaner, the famous Namaqua freebooter, who shortly 
afterward appeared in Ovampoland with a considerable 
force. For awhile he amused himself by laying heavy 
contributions of cattle, etc.. on the natives, besides 
slaying very many of them. 

After varying fortunes and manceuvrings, it would 
seem that at last an open fight between the people of 
Chypanza and those of Chykongo took .place, in which 
the latter were victorious, entirely dispersing their 
adversaries, many of whom fled for protection to neigh- 
boring rulers. Since then Chykongo has governed the 
country, and with the same tyrannical power and 
freedom as his predecessor, Nangoro, but he seems 
less reserved with his subjects, who address him much 
more familiarly. 

Having now given some account of the chieftain of 
Ovampoland, it may be proper to say a few words re- 
garding the country and people he rules over. True 
it is that in Lake N'gami these subjects are slightly 
touched upon ; but as the Ovampos are a fair type of 
the nations and tribes dwelling between Ovampoland 
and the river Cunene, of whom I shall hereafter have 
occasion to speak, I deem an apology unnecessary for 
making a short rfcum^ of what is said respecting them 
in that work, adding thereto such information as I 
have since acquired. It will save repetition hereafter, 
when, in due course, I shall have occasion to introduce 
to the reader the people in question, whereby he will 



206 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

be saved the tedium of twice going over the same 
ground, as it were. 

Ondonga, that is the grain-growing portion of 
Ovampoland, which is situated some three thousand 
feet above the level of the sea, and runs from south- 
south-east, to north-north-west, is of very limited 
extent, not being more than about forty miles in 
length, with an average breadth of ten or twelve. It 
is very level, with frequent extensive though shallow 
depressions, which are filled with water during several 
months of the year, and that portion of it, therefore, is 
rendered useless for agricultural purposes, otherwise 
nearly all of it would be available land. About one- 
fourth of the whole is cultivated. It is a beautiful, 
open, and for Africa highly cultivated country, en- 
vironed on all sides with interminable and dense 
forests — in short, a perfect oasis in the desert. In 
the fall of the year, indeed, the landscape presents a 
boundless expanse of yellow waving corn, studded with 
primitive-looking homesteads, while here and there, 
whether alone or in clusters, arise gigantic, wide- 
spreading, and dark-foliaged trees. In short, after the 
traveller has perhaps for weeks and weeks together 
toiled through pathless forests and the thorny brakes, 
which have not only torn his garments and other 
belongings to tatters, he finds himself in Ondonga, it 
seems to him a perfect elysium. Such, at least, on my 
first acquaintance with the country it appeared to me. 

The population of Ondonga is considerable. When 
in company of Mr. Galton, we were anxious to form 
some idea of its density, and by counting the houses in 
a given extent of country, and taking the average num- 



POPULATION OF ONDONGA. 207 

ber of individuals to each, we came to the conclusion 
that there were about a hundred people to every square 
mile. There is but little pauperism ; the crippled and 
aged, moreover, seem to be carefully tended and nursed. 
What a contrast to their near neighbors, the Damaras ! 
who, when a man becomes old, and no longer able to 
shift for himself, leave him to perish on his own hearth, 
or carry him into the desert or the forest, there to die 
of hunger or to be devoured by beasts of prey. 

There are neither towns nor villages in Ondonga, if 
we except perhaps the chiefs werft, which, from its 
great extent, might almost come under one or other of 
these categories. Each family, often consisting of 
father, grandfather, children and servants, resides by 
itself in a very patriarchal sort of way. Their houses, 
or rather huts, are circular in form ; the lower part con- 
sisting of slender poles, about two feet six inches high, 
firmly driven into the ground, and further secured by 
withes, or other bands, the whole being plastered over 
with clay. The roof, composed of rushes, is in shape 
not unlike a beehive. The height of the hut, from the 
ground to the apex of the roof, does not much exceed 
four feet, and its circumference outwardly is about six- 
teen. The reason for their thus entombing themselves, 
as it were, is probably partly as a protection against the 
cold, and partly on account of the great distance the 
wood has to be conveyed from the forest. 

Besides the hut in which they themselves dwell, the 
homestead consists of various other erections ; viz., the 
" palaver-house," or that wherein councils are held ; 
several beehive-topped baskets in which the grain is 
stored away ; pens for the cattle and goats, etc., the 



208 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

whole being surrounded by a high and strong palisade, 
and it may be a thorn fence in addition. The pathways, 
or walks, leading to the several buildings enumerated, 
which are also lined on both sides by rows of poles, are 
exceedingly tortuous, and to a stranger perfectly bewil- 
dering. 

The residences of the great differ but little in design 
from the homesteads of the commonalty ; but they are 
on a much more extensive scale — that of Chykongo, the 
paramount chief, for instance, being something like 
half a mile in circuit. The defences, moreover, are very 
much stronger, the outer palisading, as well as that on 
either side of the pathways leading to the several build- 
ings, consisting of two or more rows of poles or planks, 
instead of single ones, and these so closely placed 
together as almost to exclude the light, and conse- 
quently impervious to ordinary fire-arms. Indeed, it 
would require cannon to knock them down ; and I have 
no doubt it is intended they should prove impregnable, 
if not to ordnance, at least to such weapons as are at 
the command of the natives. Without fear of being 
thought to exaggerate, I will venture to affirm that at 
least one or two hundred thousand stout poles, together 
with a great many planks, or rather slabs, for saw-mills 
have not as yet found their way into Ondonga, were 
made use of in the construction of the werft in ques- 
tion ; and as all the homesteads in the surrounding 
country, though on a very much smaller scale, are sim- 
ilarly constructed, it may readily be conceived what 
millions upon millions of young trees must annually be 
felled for their construction and needful repair. 

In the erection of the residence of the paramount 



CEREALS OF OKEVANGO. 20Q 

chief of Ondonga, be he who he may, I should add 
the whole population is compelled to assist ; each man 
contributing his quota of materials and labor, and that 
without remuneration of any kind ; but on these occa- 
sions a great quantity of beer is consumed, and, as I 
imagine at the chiefs expense. 

The soil of Okovango, which chiefly consists of a 
fine loose sand on a clay bottom, is very fertile, as may 
be inferred from the fact that little or no manure is ever 
applied to the land. Two species of cereals are indi- 
genous to the country, viz., the so-styled Caffir corn 
{Holcus Suluceni), a flattened, roundish seed of a red- 
dish-yellow color, and a much smaller kind, not unlike 
canary-seed. This, which is called omahange, is the 
most prized, and is chiefly used for food, whereas the 
former is, for the most part, converted into beer. 
Both yield an enormous return ; two thousand grains 
and upward being commonly obtained from a single 
ear of the last-named. 

Besides grain, they cultivate small quantities of 
beans, of which there are also two sorts — one brown 
and the other white ; both are very palatable, the last 
quite a delicacy. But, strange to say, neither kind is 
much prized by the natives themselves, who prefer 
corn. Tobacco is likewise extensively planted, but 
their way of preparing it quite destroys any flavor it 
may possess. It is mashed together in a hollow piece 
of wood, by means of a heavy pole, into little round 
balls of the size of an orange, which when dry are 
broken into smaller pieces. Calabashes are besides 
largely produced, but only to be converted into vessels 
for holding food, beer, etc. Pumpkins are rarely seen. 



210 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

The cultivation of corn is associated with much toil 
and labor. Indeed, from the first preparation of the 
soil until the grain is cut, housed, and cleaned, it is one 
continuous course of hard work. When the first heavy 
showers have fallen they begin their operations. The 
seed, however, is not sown broadcast as with us, but 
little holes are made at regular intervals, into which a 
few grains are deposited. As soon as the plants are 
sufficiently grown, these, with the exception of one or 
two that are left, are pulled up and transplanted else- 
where. This is going on almost incessantly, and it is 
amusing to observe how the area on which the corn 
was first sown grows under the process. Thus a field 
of grain that in the first instance was only half an acre 
in extent is eventually converted into one of many 
acres. As a matter of course, a large field of corn 
rarely ripens at one and the same time ; but this is of 
no consequence, as only the ears are severed from the 
stalk. The ground, I should add, is carefully weeded 
by a small one-handed hoe, the only farming implement 
in use among these people. From the first dawn of 
day to dusk, the women, and at times the men also, are 
employed about the cornfields. 

Notwithstanding the care and labor thus bestowed 
on the cultivation of the soil, and the uncommonly 
large yield, still times of great scarcity occasionally 
occur. The soil consists, as I have said, of fine loose 
sand on a clay bottom ; consequently, as the evapora- 
tion is always great, and there is little or no shade, the 
ground is rapidly exhausted of its moisture, and unless 
replenished at regular intervals by copious tropical 
rains, it becomes incapable of yielding the usual 



CULTIVATION OF THE SOIL. 211 

produce. In former times, when the Ovampo pos- 
sessed many cattle, an occasional failure of the crop, 
though always more or less calamitous, was of less 
consequence, since they could then fall back on a meat 
and milk diet until the return of more favorable sea- 
sons ; but such is not the case at present, their enemies 
having of late years despoiled them of a large portion 
of their herds. However, as all the tribes bordering 
on Ovampoland are more or less corn-producers, and as 
the rains are not everywhere equally uncertain, it 
follows that a supply may in general be obtained from 
one or other of their neighbors, sufficient at least " to 
keep the wolf from the door." 

Magnificent trees, both fruit and forest, whether 
alone or in groups, dot, as said, the Ondonga land- 
scape. Preeminent for beauty among .the former 
stands the palm, the glory of the tropics, the stem of 
which, before branching out, often rises to a height of 
fifty or sixty feet. But this tree is even more useful 
than ornamental ; for, independently of its rich brown 
clusters of well-tasted fruit, its wood, broad leaves, and 
fibres are applied to a hundred beneficial purposes. 

Next in rank comes, perhaps, a huge-stemmed, 
wide-spreading tree,* with small elongated leaves, 
yielding in ordinary years tons and tons of a small, 
apple-looking fruit ; but it is only in appearance, for 
it contains a strong kernel, surrounded by a fleshy 
pulp, which defies your utmost efforts to detach it. 

* This tree at times attains to an astonishing size. Indeed, the 
branches of one that we measured spread over a space of ground one 
hundred and forty feet in diameter, or four hundred and thirty-two in 
circumference. 



212 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

By removing the skin, however, an agreeable, sweet, 
acidulous flavor is obtained. As the fruit begins to 
ripen it falls to the ground, where it is carefully 
gathered by the natives, who convert it into a kind of 
beer. This is done by simply removing the peel, and 
then throwing it into some vessel partially filled with 
water. In a day or two it is fit for use, and is said to 
be very intoxicating. I cannot say that I like it, but 
when mingled with the ordinary beer obtained from 
malted corn, it becomes a cool and pleasant beverage. 

Then there is a rich, dark-foliaged, and dark- 
stemmed tree, producing a small yellow acorn-looking 
(minus the cup) fruit, which is apparently highly prized 
by the native population. To my taste, however, it is 
too sweet and insipid. Single fig-trees are met with 
everywhere, and grow frequently to enormous dimen- 
sions. The fruit is plentiful, but not very well flavored. 
Besides those mentioned, there are some other kinds of 
fruit-trees, but let the aforesaid suffice. 

There are no rivers in Ondonga, only an " omu- 
ramba," or periodical water-course, containing grass as 
well as water, which intersects nearly its whole length, 
and never dries up entirely even in the hottest sum- 
mer. From the level nature of the country, however, 
it hardly drains an area of half-a-mile on either side ; 
and in extraordinary wet seasons, therefore, the country 
is half under water, from which cause, as will naturally 
be inferred, it becomes extremely unhealthy. But more 
of this hereafter. 

Neither are there minerals in Ondonga, or, in fact, 
in any part of the extensive country surrounding it that 
is claimed by the Ovampo. Iron these people obtain 



CLIMATE. 213 

by barter from neighboring tribes ; and copper is 
brought to them, in the shape of ore, by the Bushmen 
who inhabit the border country between Ovampo and 
Damaraland. With gold and silver they are unac- 
quainted, as also with all other known metals except 
the two just named. 

The climate of Ondonga cannot be looked on as 
healthy, the natives at all times suffering more or less 
from ophthalmia, dysentery, and fever ; for none of 
which diseases have they any specific. In very wet 
--seasons, moreover, when the rains, generally lasting 
from January to May, have been unusually heavy, and 
the country, as a consequence, laid half under water, 
a kind of intermittent fever (to which foreigners and 
strangers are equally as liable as the natives) extensively 
prevails, causing the mortality to be frightful. This 
disease arises, no doubt, from the excessive amount 
of evaporation that takes place after the downpour- 
ings have ceased. Nevertheless, the country generally 
cannot with propriety be called either swampy or 
marshy ; for, as said, the soil is sandy, and neither 
reeds nor rushes will thrive in it. With the excep- 
tion of the " omuramba " spoken of, none of the " vleys " 
hold water throughout the year, and consequently 
there is no encouragement for the formation of 
decomposed matter. 

Independently of the risk the stranger who visits 
Ondonga runs from one or other of the diseases spoken 
of, he will surely be plagued almost out of his life by 
certain insects. Among these may be enumerated the 
white ants, which, in an incredibly short time, deface 
and destroy everything they come across. A room left 



214 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

deserted for a short while will be found to have large 
heaps of earth on the floor, which if not speedily 
removed will shortly grow into hills. The posts of the 
veranda of my house in Ondonga became so incrusted, 
even to the rafters, with their mud-work, as to give me 
the idea of a torrent of lava having run down their 
sides. The thorn-fences, moreover, look in a short 
time as if a herd of mud-bespattered elephants had been 
rubbing their bodies against them. 

The evil just mentioned, however, is but trivial 
compared with that inflicted by a kind of bug of a 
shining brown color. During certain months of the 
year these insects literally swarm. everywhere, invading 
and destroying all they meet with. You open your 
clothes-box, and myriads are seen scampering off, 
though only to hide themselves in the linen. Examine 
any one piece, and scores are found secreted in its 
folds; and, to cap the evil, they get into one's food. 
Every crack and fissure in a loaf of bread, if left exposed 
for only half an hour, harbors its dozens. Ugh! If you 
chance* to kill one of them, which a slight pressure of 
the finger will effect, the squashed parts adhere to the 
digit, and make the eating of the bread anything but 
pleasant. Such a sight would, I am sure, act on many 
persons like a dose of ipecacuanha. Others of the pests 
to which one is subjected at Ondonga are the common 
house-fly,* the mosquito, and mice. 

* We, in Europe, who are annoyed enough at times by the common 
house-fly, can hardly form an idea as to the number of these insects in 
Southern Africa. Methuen,.in his interesting work, when speaking of a 
visit paid by him to a Boer, says, for instance : " A hot wind was blowing 
at the time, and the Dutchman's house was perfectly full of flies, and 
garnished with the usual appendages. A number of green boughs were 



FLORA AND FAUNA. 21 5 

The flora of Ondonga is comparatively poor ; the 
paucity, or rather the want of variety, is probably to be 
accounted for by the uniform character of the soil. 

Nor is its fauna richer, at least the animal portion. 
The cause here is even more apparent, viz., the open 
and cultivated nature of the country. Now and then 
a steinbok, a ducker, a hartebeest, and so forth, may be 
seen, and during the dry season an occasional herd of 
migratory springboks. But in the dense bush that 
surrounds Ondonga on every side we find an occasional 
elephant, as also the eland, the gemsbok, the giraffe, the 
koodoo, etc. ; to say nothing of beasts of prey that 
usually follow in their wake, such as the lion, the leop- 
ard, and the hyena. The last-named beast is, however, 
not only a constant resident in the country, but literally 
swarms everywhere. 

But what Ondonga wants in animals is amply made 
up for by the quantity and variety of the feathered 
creation. Indeed, I know no other country in the world, 
of an equal extent (the reader will recollect that On- 
donga is only about forty miles long, and one- fourth of 
that in breadth), that can boast of such a number of dif- 
ferent kinds of birds. It is true, many are only tem- 
porary residents, arriving with the return of the rainy 
season, and taking their departure on the gradual dry- 
ing-up of the " vleys " and other waters. During my 
last visit, I ascertained the existence of many species, 
but want of space prevents me from giving even a list 
of them. 

suspended overhead to attract the flies, which the good vrow from time to 
time enveloped in a wet sack, and then shaking the sack's mouth, depos- 
ited it in a corner. The contents did not appear to be far short of half 
a bushel." 



2l6 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Fish are also abundant in the " omuramba," or 
periodical water-course spoken of, which, as I have said, 
never dries up entirely. Of these the natives are fond, 
and catch them during the hot time of the year by 
means of bee-hive shaped hand-baskets, which are 
dropped suddenly over the fish when appearing in 
view. But this rude process is only successful with the 
smaller species, and where the water is shallow ; the 
larger ones are speared. There are several kinds ; but 
I cannot remember having identified more than the 
barbel {Glanis Siluris), and the mullet (Mugil-Africanns), 
though Claria Capensis is probably found, too. The 
barbel attains to an enormous size and fatness, being 
not unfrequently captured six, seven, eight, and even 
nine feet in length. 

The domestic animals of the Ovampo are the ox, the 
goat, the pig, the dog, the cat (which I myself lately 
introduced), and the barn-door fowl. Horses, of which 
of late years a few have been brought into the country, 
don't thrive ; for the most part, indeed, they die at the 
end of the rainy season of the so-called " lung-sickness," 
the disease that annually carries off so many animals, 
both wild and tame, in Southern Africa ; those that 
survive, however, are said to be exempt thereafter from 
the epidemic. Neither have sheep succeeded ; those 
that have been imported from Damaraland, or else- 
where, have for the most part succumbed to a disease 
designated the " blood-sickness." 

The cattle, which are of a fair size, differ in nothing 
from other native breeds, but the cows give little milk. 
The goats — nearly the whole of which are black, or of 
a darkish color — are very diminutive ; but people who 



DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 217 

have had opportunity of comparing them with breeds 
elsewhere, say they yield more milk than others of 
double the size. The pigs are also black, or nearly so, 
and very uncouth looking, being bony and lanky. The 
head is particularly ugly. The flesh is, however, palat- 
able. The dogs, which are larger than those found 
with the Bushmen, are of a lightish color, with dark gray 
muzzles. The fowls, a species of bantam, are very 
small, but capital egg-layers. I hope shortly, however, 
to supply them with a more useful breed. 

A word now as to the inhabitants of Ovampoland, 
who, as a race, are fine-looking people, and have noth- 
ing of the real negro type in their features. The men 
are tall and well-formed, and their upright, manly fig- 
ures are set of! to great advantage by a broad, stiff 
leather girdle. This, with a slip of dressed skin (more 
frequently the inside of an ox's stomach) in front, and 
the apology of a piece of hide behind, is the only cov- 
ering they indulge in. Though they have now been 
for nearly twenty years in communication with Euro- 
peans, and eagerly buy our guns, ammunition, etc., 
they strictly eschew everything approaching to cloth- 
ing. They do not even make use of the skins of wild 
or domestic animals as coverings during the night. 
One can only account for this apparent perverseness 
of their taste by the fact that they look on their own 
lubricous and next to naked persons as a far prettier 
and more respectable sight than the most dandified 
Brummel costume ; but let the cause be what it may, 
their going thus denuded of dress must ill agree with 
their constitutions, for during the rainy seasons they 
evidently suffer much from the cold. With the excep- 
10 



2l8 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

tion of ear-rings, composed of beads or shells, the men 
display but few ornaments. 

Their arms consist of the bow and arrow, a dagger- 
shaped knife, and the "knob-keerie," a short, straight 
stick, or rather club, with a heavy knob at the end ; a 
most formidable weapon in experienced hands, as a 
single well-directed blow is sufficient to fell the strong- 
est man to the ground. The natives of Africa, more- 
over, throw it with very great dexterity, seldom failing 
to hit the object aimed at. Harris, indeed, when speak- 
ing of the Matibili, goes so far as to say, " They rarely 
miss a partridge or a guinea-fowl when on the wing." 

The features of the women, though coarse, are not 
unpleasing, and in early life many of them are very 
good-looking. As a rule they are exceedingly plump 
and well fed ; and, curiously enough, I have never seen 
among them any of those thin and scraggy females, 
who are so common in Europe. And though they 
retain their roundness even in old age, it is seldom they 
become corpulent. As with the men, they lubricate 
their persons with grease and red ochre, and are as inno- 
cent of clothing as their lords and masters, wearing only, 
like them, a belt about the waist, and a slip of skin 
before and behind. Their persons, however, are pro- 
fusely ornamented, or rather loaded, with various colored 
beads, and strings of round pieces of ostrich eggs, the 
latter resting gracefully in front. 

But the Ovampo ladies have their fashions, as well as 
those of more civilized countries. On my first visit to 
Ondonga, they, for instance, 'wore the hair (the artificial 
portion of it at least) straight down the back, each elf- 
like lock being fastened to a sort of comb, as depicted 



OVAMPO WOMEN. 219 

in " Lake N'gami." Now all this is changed, and the 
hair is worn en neglige. Thus a few locks descend 
behind, while others are thrown coquettishly over the 
head and part of the face. Then again, at the period 
I speak of, it was customary for the fair sex to wear, as 
ornaments, heavy copper rings about the ankles. Now 
this fashion is altogether dispensed with, and the rings 
in question are used for a very different purpose, viz., 
to prevent servants and slaves, if suspected of the inten- 
tion of running away, from carrying out their purpose ; 
for when several of the rings are attached to the legs, 
which renders even the process of walking somewhat 
difficult, it is next to impossible for them to effect their 
escape. Both the men and women, when grown up, I 
should add, chip the middle tooth of the under-jaw. 

The Ovampo are a light-hearted people, and, among 
other amusements, delight in music and the dance. 
Almost every evening, indeed, when the labors of the 
day are over, there are balls, which, in their way, are 
remarkable performances, and in which both sexes take 
part. The women stand in a ring, singing, clapping 
their hands, and keeping time with their feet, while the 
men join in a kind of chorus. Individuals of the male 
sex now and then spring into the open space, and chal- 
lenge their companions " to kick me here if you dare 
and can," presenting at the same time their caudals as 
a mark, but with a threatening " beware of your own." 
He who succeeds in making the highest leap, and plan- 
ing the most vigorous kick on the inviting spot, is 
warmly applauded by the women. But who shall blame 
the Ovampo if they think that kicking each other in the 
way described is rare sport, and a graceful and inter- 



220 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

esting amusement? Every country for itself. Their 
musical instruments are of a very simple kind, consist- 
ing of the well-known African " tom-tom " and a sort 
of guitar. 

The staple food of the Ovampo may be said to con- 
sist of a kind of stir-about and milk, and though partial 
to meat, it is seldom they slaughter their own cattle; 
chiefly for the reason, I believe, that as a man's wealth 
and influence are judged of by the number of his herd, 
he is loth to make inroads on the latter, but on very 
special occasions. With the exception of the hyena, 
and for a reason hereafter mentioned, they eschew not 
the flesh of any other animal, whether tame or wild. 
That of the dog would appear to be especially welcome 
to them. What is more than strange, however, is that 
both flesh and fish, even when in a high state of putre- 
faction, are eaten by them with great gusto, and sin- 
gularly enough, no evil consequences would appear to 
follow the banquet. What would doctors and inspect- 
ors of meat say if assured that not only putrid but dis- 
eased meat was perfectly healthy ; but it must not be 
forgotten that those who partake of such dainties with 
impunity, live and breathe in the purest of atmospheres 
during the greater part of the year. Beer is the favor- 
ite beverage of the Ovampo, and if they can afford it, 
they drink it in large quantities. 

These people, so far as I am aware, worship nothing, 
either in heaven above or on earth beneath ; whence 
one is led to conclude their religion, should they really 
possess one, must go in a very small compass. Still 
they would appear to have a dim idea of a future state, 
as may be inferred from the awe and reverence evinced 



FOOD. 221 

by them when the subject of death is mentioned. But, 
after all, may we not entertain incorrect notions in this 
matter as regards the Ovampo, attributable, not improb- 
ably, to our insufficient knowledge of their language and 
habits, and to shyness on their part to reveal such sub- 
jects as those in question to strangers. Certain it is, 
however, they are very superstitious, and the " Rain- 
maker," as well as other diviners of coming events, 
are, as a consequence, held by them in high honor 
and repute. 

As with some other South African tribes, the 
Ovampo never bury their dead, their chiefs excepted ; 
but so soon as life is extinct, the corpse is borne to some 
out-of-the-way place, and there left to be devoured by 
birds and beasts of prey. The hyena, more especially, 
indulges in this revolting kind of food (hence the antip- 
athy of the natives to partake of his flesh, as mentioned 
a page or two back), and becomes at length so embol- 
dened as, in failure of dead, to seek out living subjects. 
It is, therefore, not uncommon to hear of these beasts 
attacking and killing, not only full-grown women, but 
men, of which- several instances came under my own 
notice during my stay at Ondonga. Previously I had 
always despised the hyena as a sneaking, cowardly 
brute, whom a child was sufficient to scarce away ; but 
during my present travels in Ovampo and adjacent 
countries, I honestly acknowledge that I never felt my- 
self quite safe when sleeping in the open air, unless pro- 
tected by powerful and watchful dogs. 

The Ovampo are an industrious race, and the men, 
contrary to the custom of most other African tribes and 
nations, work fully as hard as the women. Besides 



222 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

taking part with the latter in the cultivation of the 
soil, they tend the cattle when pastured in the distant 
forest, furnish wood for the huts and enclosures, dig the 
wells, and perform various other laborious occupations. 
When, moreover, they have time to spare from their 
several duties, it is often employed in trading with their 
neighbors, for which purpose they not unfrequeritly 
make journeys of several hundreds miles in extent ; on 
these occasions, they exchange iron and copper rings 
and beads, hoes, spear-heads (assegais), and a few other 
simple articles of their own rough manufacture (there 
being artisans, so to say, among them) for iron, copper, 
etc., etc. The women are never idle, as the men are. In- 
dependently of household duties, nursing their children, 
milking the cows and goats, they assist their husbands 
and brothers in field labors, reaping the grain, storing 
it. away, etc. ; but let them be engaged in what manner 
they may, they always seem a merry, happy set, laugh- 
ing, and chatting together, and making sport, as it were, 
of labor. 

The morality of the Ovampo is much on a par with 
that of the Damaras and other South African tribes, 
which is not saying much in their favor. Polygamy is 
practised to a great extent, and a man may have as many 
wives as he can afford to maintain. Our guide, on the oc- 
casion of my first journey to Ondonga in company with 
Mr. Galton, was said to have no fewer than twenty, two 
of whom, I found to my astonishment, were mother and 
daughter ; and Nangoro, the then paramount chief, 
boasted of no fewer than one hundred and three 
help-mates. Women in that country, it is to be ob- 
served, are looked on as a mere mercantile commodity, 



INDUSTRY. 223 

an article of commerce; in short, should the man be 
poor, the price he pays for a wife is two oxen and one 
cow ; but if his circumstances be good, three oxen 
and two cows are expected. The chief, however, is 
an exception to the rule, as in. his case the honor of 
an alliance with him is supposed to be sufficient com- 
pensation to the parents of the girl. 

A stranger passing through the country would be 
inclined to look on the Ovampo as honest, and they 
are probably as much so as most of the African tribes, 
Such was the first impression of Mr. Galton and myself 
when we visited Ondonga. A more intimate acquaint- 
ance will probably dispel the illusion. It seems to me, 
indeed, that their apparent honesty arises rather from 
fear of the consequences that might ensue, than from 
a desire of " doing as they would be done by." 
And no wonder, for the chief rules them with a rod of 
iron, and should any of his subjects be suspected on 
good grounds of theft, conspiracy, or other serious 
crime, he takes not the trouble legally to investigate 
the case, but invites the unfortunate individual to an 
entertainment at his own " werft," where he is plied 
with intoxicating drinks until all sense of consciousness 
is lost, when i( Jack Ketch " — there really being such a 
functionary attached to the chief's establishment — steps 
behind the victim, and either stabs him with an assegai 
or cuts his throat, and that with as little compunction 
as he would slay an ox or a sheep. Should, however, 
this course of proceeding be thought too open and dan- 
gerous, the doomed rnan is waylaid and put to death 
at a distance. 

The Ovampo are a peaceably inclined people, and 



224 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

seldom, I believe, resort to arms, except in self- 
defence, or when a question arises as to the suc- 
cession of a chief. Apparently they are obliging, hos- 
pitable, and kind-hearted ; but their disposition at bot- 
tom, it is to be feared, is treacherous and cruel, as 
indeed was shown by their dastardly attack on the Rev. 
Mr. Hahn, who, in company with my friend Frederick 
Green, visited their country in 1857, for though osten- 
sibly well received by the then paramount chief, Nan- 
goro, the seeming kindness shown by him to the trav- 
ellers was, as it turned, a mere ruse de guerre ; for just 
as they were about to depart they were suddenly and 
furiously attacked, and that by the monarch's orders. 
Fortunately, however, they were not altogether unpre- 
pared, hints having been previously given them as to 
what was about to happen, and, by the determined re- 
sistance made by them, they not only succeeded in 
securing their own safety, but completely defeated the 
enemy. The loss on Mr. Hahn's side was only a single 
native attendant, who was killed near to the mission 
ary's wagon previous to the commencement of the 
fight, whereas that of the Ovampo was very considera- 
ble, many being either killed or wounded ; and among 
the former one of the sons of Nangoro. Nangoro him- 
self, moreover, is reported to have met his death on 
this occasion (a statement at variance with the general 
impression, as elsewhere stated, that he came to his 
end by foul means), for although not present at the 
fight, yet on hearing the repeated discharges of fire- 
arms he became so excited and terrified that he dropped 
down dead. It was supposed that the assailants of the 
European party numbered at least six hundred fighting 



DISPOSITION. 225 

men, all armed with bows and arrows, assegais, and 
" knob-keerie," while the travellers could only muster 
thirteen capable of opposing the enemy. The victory 
gained by them was, therefore, truly wonderful, and 
deserving of being chronicled among other heroic deeds. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Lung-sickness — Symptoms of the disease — Inoculation said to be a pre- 
ventive — The virus — Inoculation not always effective — Cure of the 
disease — Periods at which horses are liable to be attacked — Flesh 
of infected cattle — Refutation of Dr. Livingstone — Origin of the dis- 
ease unknown. 

A WORD now regarding the so-called "lung-sick- 
ness " (pleuromonia), to which occasional allusion 
has been made in these pages, as also in " Lake N'gami," 
that is so terribly fatal to both tame and wild animals 
in Southern Africa, and which, unless an effectual 
remedy be applied on the first symptoms appearing, 
almost invariably ends in death. It seems to me that 
this insidious disease bears some affinity to the dreaded 
" rinderpest " which of late years has so ravaged Eng- 
land and other European countries, in which case some 
useful hints may be gained by learning the treatment 
resorted to in Damaraland and the adjacent regions for 
the cure of the " lung-sickness." I have therefore 
thought it right to subjoin the result of my own ex- 
periences, which have not been few, regarding this dis- 
ease. And I speak with some authority, as during my 
long sojourn at Otjimbingue, I myself have possessed 
very large herds of horned cattle, and unfortunately 
lost upward of two thousand by " lung-sickness." 

The outward symptoms of pleuromonia are : The 
infected beast loses his appetite, his breathing becomes 



LUNG-SICKNESS. 227 

hard and labored, he is seized with a short, dry cough, 
the hair becomes partially raised, and has a rough and 
ruffled appearance, just like that of cattle on a cold morn- 
ing. As the disease increases in violence, the beast, 
no longer able to support himself, lies down, too often 
to rise no more ; the breathing becomes more difficult, 
the cough more frequent, a frothy matter exudes from 
his mouth and nostrils, and the eyes close as if in sleep. 
When the disease has arrived at this stage, no known 
remedy can possibly restore the poor creature ; he is 
then abandoned to his fate or the butcher's knife. 
When not quite so far gone, however, it occasionally 
happens that he recovers from his desperate condition, 
in which case he may be considered safe for life, only 
he is much weakened, and will never be himself again. 
This is especially observable in " draught oxen." If 
such be slaughtered, it is not uncommon to find the 
whole of one lung, and perhaps half of the other, 
destroyed. I have known an ox on one occasion to 
remain without eating and drinking for twenty-one 
days, and afterward recover ; but, generally speak- 
ing, a week, or at the outside, a fortnight, will decide 
his fate. If the attack be severe, he never eats during 
the while, but occasionally sips a mouthful of water, 
which is always placed within his reach. 

To the best of my belief this insidious disease may 
be present in the blood for weeks, nay, months, before 
there is the slightest outward appearance of sickness ; 
and I am led to this conclusion from the fact that when, 
after perhaps only a few days' illness, the infected 
beast dies, it will be found on dissection that more than 
half of the lung is gone, which never could have occurred 



228 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

in so short a time. Then, again, it is confidently 
asserted that, on the first breaking out of " lung-sick- 
ness " in a hitherto untainted district, it will not unfre- 
quently be found, on carefully tracing it to its origin, 
that many weeks have elapsed since the cattle — the 
presumed cause of the epidemic — passed through it.' 

As a preventive for the disease in question, or, as 
many believe, a cure for it when had recourse to in its 
early stages, inoculation, on the same principle as with 
human beings, is very largely practised in Southern 
Africa ; the success of the operation, however, much 
depending on the manner in which it is performed, and 
the quality of the virus employed. Of the latter, I 
have seen people use such as had been obtained from 
cattle that had died of the disorder in question ; but 
this, I consider, was highly injudicious, and even dan- 
gerous. In my own case, it was always procured from 
the lung of an ox in the first stage of the malady, that 
was killed for the special purpose, care being taken that 
no blood or other extraneous matter was mingled with 
the lung itself, which is found partly imbedded in, and 
imbued with, a certain liquid — in short, the virus. Such 
portion of this and of the lung as may be required is 
removed and placed in a large-mouthed bottle, or other 
vessel, carefully excluding the air. In a hot climate 
such as Damaraland, virus should never be used more 
than a week old ; I, for my part, indeed, never ventured 
to employ any that exceeded half that age. The best 
virus has a clear, transparent, yellow look. 

Various plans for applying the virus are adopted. 
Thus some people, after cutting a portion of the lung 
of an ox that has died of pleuromonia into small bits, 



AN OPERATION. 229 

will insert one of these into some part of the body of 
the animal under treatment for that disease, while 
others will only dip a piece of twine or thread in the 
liquid, and afterward apply it in a similar way. There 
are those, again, who prefer administering a wine-glass- 
ful of the liquor internally. My own plan, which cer- 
tainly was as successful as that adopted by my neigh- 
bors, was to pour a small quantity of lung-liquid into a 
small, flat dish, in which I further put a number of 
single-stranded cotton wicks, two or three inches in 
length. One or two places are chiefly selected for 
operating upon in an infected beast — viz., the tail and 
the dewlap. For my part I preferred the former, as 
being more distant from the vital parts, for it not un~ 
frequently happens that the virus, if too strong, or too 
plentifully administered under certain circumstances, 
say, for instance, in hot and sultry weather, will kill 
instead of cure. This is especially the case when the 
animal is already tainted with the disorder. 

All things being in readiness for the operation, the 
ox is secured (with native cattle not unfrequently both 
a difficult and dangerous operation), one of the cotton 
strings just spoken of, after being knotted at the end, is 
then reeved through the eye of a moderately large sail- 
maker's needle, which is afterward passed through the 
tail within three or four inches of the extremity, care 
being taken not to touch the bone. The needle is now 
withdrawn, the thread being left, having first been run 
forward and backward several times through the small 
orifice made by the needle, so as to make sure that the 
virus has come in full contact with the blood. The 
time required for it to take effect varies according to 



22,0 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

circumstances and climate, but usually from, four to fif- 
teen days elapse. There are those who insist on a fixed 
period ; but this is absurd, and shows that the men who 
advocate so senseless a theory know very little of what 
they are talking about. The only safe way of ascertain- 
ing the point is to examine the tail a few days after it 
has been operated upon. The signs of its proper ripe- 
ness are a swelling and a slight exudation of yellow 
matter, resembling the virus. When such is the case, 
this is supposed to have done its work, i. e., spread over 
the system and returned whence it came. Most people 
deem it necessary to cut off the tail a few inches above 
the spot where the needle was passed through it ; but 
others merely scarify it. It is, I believe, safest to adopt 
the former course, though you thereby deprive the 
poor beast of his only means of defence against torment- 
ing flies. It not unfrequently happens that the tail has 
to be cut once, twice, and even a third time, so that 
nothing but the merest stump remains, giving the brute 
a curious foreshortened appearance. 

Contemporary with the thickness of the cauda there 
frequently appears on one or both sides of the basis or 
root of the tail a swelling, or lump, as if caused by a 
musket ball that had passed through the body of the 
animal, and lodged on the opposite side, just within the 
skin. The instant this protuberance is observed, a 
knife must be drawn across it, and a finger or two in- 
serted within the aperture, when, by a little humoring, 
a small round or oval kernel, of a hard, compact sub- 
stance, is extracted. The utmost vigilance should be 
exerted in discovering these " balls," or they will cause 
infinite trouble, and perhaps the death of the beast ; 



VACCINATION. 23 1 

for, after a very short time they identify themselves, so 
to say, with the surrounding flesh, which in a few days 
grows hard and cancer-like. The " balls " in question 
must be removed at all hazards ; in short, the knife 
should be freely used daily, for the swelling not unfre- 
quently spreads over one or both of the hind quarters, 
passing downward into the legs, and in a few days lame- 
ness ensues, and with it the fate of the beast is sealed. 
A merciful master will no longer hope against hope, 
but shorten the poor animal's sufferings by instant 
death. The wounds are cleansed at least once a day. 
Pails of fresh water and a solution of common salt 
should always be held in readiness for the purpose. 
Sulphate of potash is also used, but is more expensive, 
and certainly not more efficacious than common nitrate 
caustic of some kind — none is cheaper or more to the 
purpose than bluestone or blue vitrol — which should 
likewise be freely employed. 

Though vaccination is generally successful, still it 
often happens that the beast dies after the operation 
has been performed, and after the virus has apparently 
taken proper effect. And yet this could not well have 
been the case ; in short, the disease must already have 
made such progress when the preventive was applied as 
to frustrate its intended purpose, or it may be that the 
two — the disease and the virus — were for a time con- 
tending, as it were, for mastery, and that finally the 
disease got the upper hand. Only in this way can I 
explain the matter. Doctors may say, " You have 
perhaps used bad virus, and if so it was quite sufficient 
to annul the intended effect." I will not gainsay 
that this, in some instances, may have been the 



232 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

case with others, but, from the terrible losses suffered 
by me within the past two years, hardly as regards my- 
self, as I have been most cautious in the selection of the 
matter employed. 

From what has been said, it will be seen that the 
inoculation of cattle and its attendant cares are most 
trying and laborious. It is, indeed, impossible to realize 
this severe and harassing duty unless one has person- 
ally witnessed it. It taxes a person's utmost patience, 
strength, and health. I have had as many as two hun- 
dred head of wild cattle to attend to daily for many 
consecutive months, besides a host of other equally 
important duties. 

This disorder also occurs among horses, when it is 
called " Peripneumonia ; " but whether it is of a pre- 
cisely similar nature as that to which horned cattle are 
subject, I am not prepared to say. Many of the symp- 
toms are certainly similar ; but with horses the disease 
is far more rapid and terrible in its effects, the animal 
seldom surviving more than twenty-four hours after the 
first attack. If it does it will probably recover ; but if 
only mildly attacked it will be liable to the disease 
again and again, and may finally die of it. It is further 
to be remarked that, unlike " lung-sickness " with cat- 
tle, who are liable to the disease under all circum- 
stances and in all places, there are certain localities in 
certain countries where horses are altogether free from 
the scourge. Th,ese are generally high plateaus in 
mountainous regions situated at a considerable eleva- 
tion above the level of the sea. Moreover, it is only at 
certain seasons of the year that horses are liable to it. 
Thus in Damaraland they are quite safe from June to 



FLESH OF LUNG-SICK CATTLE. 233 

October, and even as late as'November and December. 
Sheep and goats, as well as horned cattle, die of " lung- 
sickness," though only occasionally, as it would appear. 
With these animals, however, the disease would seem 
to be of a less infectious nature. In short, one or two 
may perish out of a flock, leaving the rest untouched. 

The epidemic in question also occurs among certain 
wild animals, and mostly during dry and arid years, but 
it seldom, so far as I myself have observed, proves 
fatal to any very serious extent. Dr. Livingstone, 
however, tells a very different story. " During our 
stay at Chonuane," he writes, " a number of tolos, or 
koodoos, were attracted to the gardens of the Bakwains, 
abandoned at the usual period of harvest, because there 
was no prospect of the corn {Holcus Sorghunt) bearing 
that year. The koodoo is remarkably fond of the green 
stalks of this kind of millet. The feeding produces 
that state of fatness favorable for the development" of 
the disease, and no fewer than twenty-five died on the 
hill opposite our house. Great numbers of gnus and 
zebras perished from the same cause." 

The flesh of cattle that have been slaughtered for 
the " lung-sickness," I should remark in parenthesis, 
may be eaten with perfect impunity, at least in South- 
ern Africa. For more than two years hardly anything 
else appeared on my table, and in no one instance has 
any disagreeable consequence followed. Probably the 
strength of the poison is destroyed by cooking. The 
only parts we avoided were the ribs, to which the dis-£ 
eased lungs were more or less attached. And even 
these parts, as well as the lung itself, were consumed 
by my native servants and the dogs without any inju- 



234 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

rious effects. The experience of my neighbors was the 
same, and remains so to this day. " Lung-sick" meat, 
T should add, is easily detected by a yellowish fluid and 
little pimples of the same color disseminated through- 
out it. To a practised eye these become apparent even 
in the flesh of cattle slaughtered before the disease has 
had time seriously to affect their health. 

I had written thus far when I recollected having 
read something on the same subject in Livingstone's 
first work, and, on referring to it, found to rriy utter 
astonishment the following paragraph, a direct contra- 
diction, as will be seen, to what I have just stated. 

" When the flesh of animals," writes the famous ex- 
plorer, " that have died of this disease is eaten, it causes 
a malignant carbuncle, which when it appears over any 
important organ proves rapidly fatal. It is more espe- 
cially dangerous over the pit of the stomach. The effects 
of the poison have been experienced by missionaries 
who had eaten properly cooked food, the flesh of sheep 
really, but not visibly, affected by the disease. The 
virus in the flesh of the animal is destroyed neither by 
boiling nor roasting. The fact, of which we had innumer- 
able examples, shows the superiority of experiments 
on a large scale to those of acute and able physiologists 
and chemists in the laboratory ; for a well-known phy- 
sician in Paris, after careful investigation, considered 
that the virus in such cases was completely neutralized 
by boiling." 

However much the practical Doctor may sneer at 
results obtained in the laboratory, it will be seen by 
what he says that the physiologists and chemists are on 
my side; the reader must therefore judge for himself 



EFFECT OF LUNG-SICKNESS. 235 

whether mine or the great traveller's statement as to 
the wholesomeness of the meat of animals that have 
suffered from " lung-sickness" is the correct one. 

In conclusion, I would remark that the true cause 
of this epidemic, as well as that of the " rinderpest," is 
unknown, and although innumerable speculations have 
been hazarded on the subject, it would seem we are as 
far from the truth at the present day as when these 
terrible scourges first appeared. I would further observe 
that so powerful is the poison of the "lung-sickness," 
that when the animal's body has been fully imbued with 
it, its hide suffers seriously, its strength and durability 
being in a great measure gone. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Ovampoland — Missionary labor — Rev. Mr. Hahn's reception — Prospects 
of success — Difficulties to contend with — Civilization and Evangel- 
ization — Deceitfulness of the native character — Labors of the mis- 
sionary — Enthusiasm in Germany. 

IT was stated in a recent chapter as probable that 
Ovampoland would shortly have the benefit of 
missionary labor. Not very long before my visit to 
Ondonga, indeed, the Rev. Mr. Hahn, whose station is 
Otjimbingue, had been there for the express object of 
ascertaining the suitability of that country for the pur- 
pose, and returned home quite charmed with what he 
had seen and experienced, and full of enthusiasm for 
these benighted lands. Chykongo, the paramount chief 
of the Ovampo, as well as the chiefs of neighboring 
regions, had not only received him well, but had ex- 
pressed a desire for teachers of the new religion, and 
presented him with ground for building and agricultural 
purposes ; so that my friend at once put himself in 
communication with a missionary society in Finland, 
which would appear to conduct their labors on much 
the same principle as the Rhenish Society, or that to 
which Mr. Hahn himself is attached. 

My own first impressions were favorable to the 
establishment of a mission in Ondonga, but on more 
mature reflection I must say I consider the prospect 
of success is, at the best, very doubtful. First, there is 



RELIGIOUS MISSIONS. 237 

the fever to contend with, and though that difficulty 
may possibly be overcome, as it has been in other parts 
of the world, by a great sacrifice of life, still it must 
always remain a very serious drawback ; then the very 
ease, good-nature, and good-humor of the inhabitants 
are likely to prove stumbling-blocks, devoid as they are 
of all interest and enthusiasm for anything but beer- 
drinking, barter, and cattle-lifting. At first, from the 
novelty of the thing, there may, and probably will be, 
a slight show of success ; but gradually, it is to be 
feared, the work will languish for want of proper sup- 
port, and ultimately, perhaps, die a natural death, as 
many similar enterprises have done before it. 

Now that I am on the subject of religious missions, 
a few words from an impartial pen in regard to those in 
Southern Africa may not be without interest to the 
reader. That the missionaries do much good it is 
impossible to deny, though the good they effect is, in 
reality, quite different from that which a large portion 
of those worthy men imagine. Thus, instead of evan- 
gelizing the natives (only a very small portion at least), 
they are civilizing them, which, although not the ulterior 
object, I consider a grand achievement. They are far 
too fond of making the two — evangelization and civili- 
zation — go hand in hand, and use their best endeavors 
to let the former precede the latter, which, to my mind, 
is the greatest possible mistake. Of late years, how- 
ever, it must be admitted, they have somewhat changed 
their tactics, and the effects for the better are quite 
apparent. I have often put the question to missionaries, 
as I do now to every intelligent reader, how is it possi- 
ble to make a degraded savage— a being too frequently 



238 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

very little elevated above the brute creation — one who 
has no other thought or desire but how he shall fill his 
belly, ease his neighbor of his cattle, and so forth — how 
is it possible, I would ask, to succeed in making such 
an ignorant being understand and realize the mysterious 
doctrines of Faith, Justification, and Salvation ? Surely 
it will be necessary first to raise such a wretch from his 
beastly degradation ; to show him the way, and grad- 
ually provide him with the means of earning an honest 
living by his own exertions and ingenuity ; to teach him 
that the good things of this world were given for our 
use, and not abuse ; to show him that filth and filthy 
habits are an abomination, and that cleanliness and 
comforts are really things worthy of being acquired ; to 
teach his children to read and write ; in short, to incul- 
cate habits of cleanliness and industry,_to give him cor- 
rect notions of " meum " and " tuum," to prove to him 
that instruction and education are superior to wealth. 
I say, first do all these things, and there is some chance 
of ultimately evangelizing these benighted nations. 

If the missionary persists in pursuing a different 
course ; if, in his anxiety to be able to report favorably 
of his congregation — and what pastor has not that ambi- 
tion? — if, in short, he insists upon making Christians of 
his rude listeners before they are civilized, what will be 
the consequence? I would tell him, they will be Chris- 
tians in appearance, while in heart they are hypocrites. 
And I regret to say that this is my experience of more 
than one mission in South Africa. The native is by 
nature oily and cunning; he soon finds that in order to 
keep in the good graces of his teacher it will be neces- 
sarv for him to accommodate himself to his wishes ; he 



INSINCERITY ON THE NATIVES. 239 

learns quickly and glibly to quote Scripture ; to have 
Christ's name mixed up with every second sentence he 
utters ; to say, " If it pleases God," " If I am spared to 
live," no matter how trivial the occasion. And thus the 
worthy missionary, ay, even the most practical, is, with- 
out a direct fault of his own, too often wofully imposed 
upon. The very honesty of the man proves the rock on 
which his best hopes and aspirations suffer shipwreck. 
Why do we so often hear of missionaries dying prema- 
turely ? The cause is not always disease, suffering, or 
hardship, but they die of a broken heart, having at the 
eleventh hour discovered the hollowness and insin- 
cerity of those members of their little congregations in 
whom they perhaps most confided. I have known such 
men.* 

If you ask one of these worthy men, " Well, I hear 
you have got another convert ; what of him, do you 
really think he is a Christian ? " " Oh yes, he is." " But 
how can you tell ? " Of course he will say, " His prac- 
tices are a test of his character." " But how are you 
to -know what he says and does, you cannot always be 
present?" "No, true; but what I cannot see and 
hear, others do for me. Besides, his own countrymen, 
from a kind of jealousy of his new privileges and exalted 

* Dr. Livingstone, ever candid and practical, writes as follows: — 
" On asking an intelligent chief what he thought of them (alluding to 
some native Christians), he replied.. ' You white men have no idea how 
wicked we are ; we know each other better than you do ; some feign 
belief to ingratiate themselves with the missionaries ; some profess Chris- 
tianity because they like the new system, which gives so much more im- 
portance to the poor, and desire that the old system may pass away ; and 
the rest — a pretty large number — profess because they are really true 
believers.' " 



24O NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

rank, keep a close eye on his movements." What short- 
sighted mortals we are ! A hypocrite will always find 
means of deceiving both friend and foe. The more you 
watch him, the more he watches you. In my own hum- 
ble opinion, a far surer test of the sincerity and reality 
of the Christian converts' faith would be their conduct 
when, after a few probationary years, they were dis- 
tributed over the neighboring country, instead of being 
always kept together in one spot, as is now the invaria- 
ble custom with missionaries. For, as it has been truly 
said, " unless habits of self-reliance are cultivated, and 
opportunities given for the exercise of that virtue, the 
most promising converts are apt to become like spoiled 
children." ' 

I shall probably draw down on myself very severe 
censure for this unreserved statement ; and there may 
be those who will negative its truth altogether, but it is 
the fact. And I speak with some authority, from hav- 
ing had considerable dealings with the soi-disant con- 
verts in question ; and I should have no difficulty, were 
it needful, to find numbers of people to bear me out in 
what I have said. It must not, however, be supposed 
for a moment that I bear ill-will toward the mission- 
aries ; on the contrary, these worthy men have my best 
wishes ; and it is because I mean them well that I now 
run the risk of being misunderstood, and perhaps abused. 
Were I not interested in their success, I should proba- 
bly not care to expose their weak points. Those who 
know me will acknowledge, I hope, that I have always 
been a friend to missionary institutions, in deeds as 
well as words, and that consequently I make this 
disclosure from no ill-will to them. 



MISSIONARY LABORS. 2/J.I 

A stranger on arriving at a station that has been 
established for some time in the distant interior, I would 
remark in parenthesis, can form no idea of the tremen- 
dous efforts and the immense amount of manual labor 
that it has probably cost the founder in its erection and 
construction. Every stone, every piece of timber in 
those substantial buildings, has been fashioned and 
placed in its proper place by him solely ; that fine 
piece of garden ground has all been dug and planted by 
the same hand ; that stout cattle pen, that magnificent 
well has been raised and dug by his own good right 
arm ; nay more, the materials had frequently to be 
brought from a considerable distance. All this, and 
much more of the same kind, this toilsome man has 
accomplished, besides acquiring the language, teaching 
the children, attending to the sick and needy, compos- 
ing sermons, being present at frequent prayer-meetings, 
giving advice, and holding consultations with the chief 
and strangers, and so forth. And it must not be sup- 
posed that his helpmate is idle meanwhile. Her duties 
are hardly less trying and laborious. She prepares the 
corn, makes the bread, churns, washes and irons the 
linen, attends to her own children, if there be any, 
visits and nurses the needy, helpless, and sick, instructs 
the infants, teaches the girls to sew, and a hundred 
other offices requiring time, patience, strength, and 
health. And the result of all this is too frequently pre- 
mature old age. I have seen more than one blooming 
missionary bride in the course of a few years lose the 
roses from her cheeks entirely, her once elastic step had 
become measured and languid, the eye has lacked lustre, 
and the whole form bowed and altered wofullv. And 



242 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

yet you will never hear a word of complaint from these 
patient and self-sacrificing women, who in their great- 
est troubles have always a kind word for the stranger, 
smilingly inviting him to a seat at the hospitable board. 
One sees that it is not the possession of either silver or 
gold which supports them so nobly ; they feel that if 
there is a reward for their patience and self-immoja- 
tion, it is in a hereafter. Truly I envy them their con- 
tentedness and cheerfulness. 

With missionaries within the boundaries of the 
Cape Colony, or on stations that have been long estab- 
lished, and have easy access to civilized life, the thing 
is widely different, as they may be said to lead a life of 
comparative ease and comfort. 

The children of missionaries, at least of the Rhe- 
nish Society, are educated in Germany at the expense of 
the society, and at the death of the head of the house 
the widow is pensioned off with a small allowance, very 
insufficient, as I believe, for her necessities ; the rather 
as from thenceforward she has to shift for herself in 
every way. It must be very hard in old age, not only 
to lose a husband, but to be ousted from under the very 
roof raised, perhaps, by the beloved one, and made 
comfortable by her own thrifty housewifery. Under 
the present system, stations are called " missionary 
property," a misnomer certainty! 

The missionaries, when settled beyond the. pale of 
civilization, are almost entirely dependent on the na- 
tives for their supply of animal food ; and as money is 
generally unknown in such places, they have recourse 
to barter for obtaining the needful supplies. I believe 
it was originally forbidden the members of the Rhenish 



MISSIONARY TRADING. 243 

Society to obtain by barter more cattle than was abso- 
lutely necessary for their own support. Of late years, 
however, this regulation has been less strictly adhered 
to, and many missionaries 'at the present day increase 
their too often insufficient incomes, not only by trading 
with the natives, but by following certain trades, such 
as those of wagon-makers, blacksmiths, and the like, 
whereby, they say, the societies to which they belong 
are enabled to extend their influence, besides teaching 
the people useful handicrafts, which statement, on the 
face of it, seems fair enough. 

But, as regards trading, the opinion of people in 
Southern Africa differs greatly. One often, indeed, 
hears the question asked, "What have missionaries to 
do with trade ? They have enough to live upon with- 
out depriving other men of their bread ; " or, " What 
becomes of the enormous sums subscribed for their 
use ? " Missionaries being allowed to trade, in short, 
causes much bad blood among many of the European 
settlers at least. I myself do not agree with those who 
would prevent these men from trading. Indeed, I don't 
see how they could well exist without it ; but this I 
would say, do not allow them to conduct the business 
in person, but leave it to their wives, or other responsi- 
ble persons. 

Trade and barter, in the course of time, are apt to 
taint the least selfish and honorable mind with a feeling 
of avarice, or a desire to accumulate money, At first, 
moderate profit may suffice, but eventually, perhaps, the 
trader is induced to overstep the bounds of moderation, 
which the wily native soon discovers. He is always 
suspicious, and steadily refuses to understand the reason 



244 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

why the missionary comes from distant lands to settle 
among strangers. It seems to him perfectly absurd 
that a man should make so long a voyage merely for 
the purpose, as the missionary tells him, of doing good 
to their fellow-men. In a native's eyes everything has 
its marketable value. A missionary may flatter himself 
that his own good conduct and precepts will be a test 
of the sincerity of his profession ; but once turned trader, 
and four-fifths, perhaps more, of his little congrega- 
tion, will judge him in that character, and should they, 
perchance, find he has been overreaching them in any 
way, they will thereafter value their spiritual teaching 
accordingly. 

The missionary appears, under diffierent circum- 
stances, in a two-fold character, as it were. Thus, in 
Europe, he is the representative of self-abnegation, self- 
sacrifice, devotedness, moral courage, and so forth, all 
which he really is. Who has not seen immense crowds, 
such as not even royalty could attract, rush to a church 
when it is rumored that a missionary will preach ; a 
very large proportion are led there by mere curiosity 
and a desire to hear wonderful tales of hunger, thirst, 
sickness, or of miraculous escapes from savage beasts 
and still more savage men. Abroad — in South Africa 
at least — where European settlers are numerous, the 
missionary, instead of being looked on as a wonderful 
being, is by many of them viewed rather as an inter- 
loper — one in short, who has the monstrous audacity to 
set right the degraded natives, and to secure valuable 
lands that the latter ought to have possessed, and so 
forth. Thus in Europe enormous sums are cheerfully 
subscribed for the propagation of the Gospel among 



THE MISSIONARY. 245 

savages, while abroad, in South Africa at least, the 
poor missionary, the distributor of the money, is too 
often subjected to odium and suspicion. 

Nothing is more common, moreover, than to hear 
missionaries stigmatized as " meddling politicians." If 
the accusation be true, then nothing is more easy than 
to account satisfactorily for such an assumption of the 
rights which they exercise. Their very social position 
and education compel them, as it were, to such a course. 
What is more natural than that the poor, degraded 
beings under their patriarchal rule should look up to 
them in every emergency for advice and comfort ? 
Even when, after years of severe labor on the part of 
their teachers, their intellects have been cleared of 
Cimmerian darkness, and raised perhaps to an equality 
even with that of their missionary, the old habit of 
looking to him for a decision in every important matter 
clings to them. I have known missionaries who have 
made the most strenuous exertions to rid themselves of 
such a duty, at least in all that relates to politics, and 
for a short time they may have succeeded ; they have 
even gone so far as temporarily to estrange themselves 
from their congregation by their obsinate adherence to 
refuse advice. But what father can resist the pleadings 
of his child, when, with infantine confidence and rev- 
erence, he throws himself on his more mature age and 
experience for help in difficulties? And so it is really 
with the missionary and his congregation, who stand in 
the relation to each other almost of parent and children. 
But the fact is the neighbors are jealous and suspicious 
of his motives. Were he the pastor of some European 



246 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

settlement, no such outcry or complaint would probably 
be heard. 

The South African missions are very numerous ; more 
so, some think, than the country requires. Certain it 
is that from the somewhat different teaching at the va- 
rious stations (several societies and sects being repre- 
sented), they prove a sad puzzle to such of the converts 
as, from circumstances, are necessitated to remove from 
one mission to the other, as not unfrequently happens 
in the more civilized districts. 

They — the missions — which are chiefly German, are 
very liberally supplied, not only with funds, but with 
ready-made clothes ; none of your slops, but good use- 
ful stuff that the best of us might wear. " Most of the 
missions, indeed, annually receive chest upon chest of 
these valuable contributions, worth, probably, in the 
aggregate, many thousand pounds sterling. 

The Germans, and probably other continental peo- 
ple also, would appear to be very enthusiastic about 
missions, as also very liberal contributors thereto. 
Even the lower classes freely take part in the good 
work. The Rev. Mr. Hahn told me that he himself 
knew a poor girl to deposit in the begging box a sum 
which constituted the whole of her savings during six- 
teen years of severe labor. I remarked to him : " Had 
you no compunction in accepting of the noble gift ? " 
"None whatever," my friend replied. He might be 
right, but I was too blind to see it. Surely, the widow 
offering her last mite, as recorded in Scripture, was not 
meant as an example to be followed. If so, what 
becomes of the maxim, " Charity begins at home.' 
God forbid that I should sit in judgment on such 



GERMAN MISSIONS. 247 

weighty matters ; but when Christ commanded His 
disciples to go into the world and preach the Gospel to 
the Gentiles, he forbade them to carry either scrip or 
bag, assuring them that their Heavenly Father would 
provide for their wants. It therefore seems to me that 
a portion, at least, of the stupendous contributions now 
raised in Europe for the support of missions would be 
equally well spent at home. 

The reverend gentleman just named mentioned 
another circumstance, showing how enthusiastic the 
Germans are in regard to missionary enterprise. We 
were talking of the large debts that the African societies 
ventured at times to incur on the strength of such 
enthusiasm. " Suppose," said I, " your mission owed 
ten thousand pounds " — a very large sum in his country 
— " in what manner would you clear yourselves of the 
debt, and still continue your labors with unabated 
vigor ? " " Oh ! " he replied, " nothing would be easier ; 
we should write to some influential friend of the mission, 
stating our urgent wants, and the money would be 
forthcoming in due time." Astonishing ! 

In concluding these few observations on the South 
African missions, I would remark that, taken as a whole, 
there are probably not more respectable and worthy 
men than the missionaries individually. I sincerely 
admire their courage, their devotedness, their enthu- 
siasm, their total disregard of personal interests. What 
other men would abandon home, friends, comforts, in 
short all that renders existence valuable and pleasant, 
to bury themselves for life in desert and pestilential 
places, among barbarous tribes and nations, who, more- 
over, are utterly incapable of appreciating the sacrifice 



248 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

they have made, and for which sacrifice they, in return, 
too often receive only ignominy, treachery, and perse- 
cution, or it may be even death itself? Truly, it re- 
quires something like superhuman enthusiasm, and a 
true Christian spirit, to enable them to struggle suc- 
cessfully and submissively against such a condition. 
God speed and bless the labors of the lonely mission- 
ary in his arduous path ! 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Prevalence of sickness — Despatch of ivory to Otjimbingue — Departure of 
elephant hunters — Study of Portuguese — Attack of fever — Birds shot 
by natives with arrows — Goat carried off by a hyena — Ophthalmia — 
Samuel attacked by the Damaras — New species of storks — Visit to 
Chykongo — Dr. Livingstone — A thief caught in the act. 

HERE Andersson's " Notes of Travel " cease alto- 
gether, and henceforth it is only from his Journal, 
which he kept regularly posted up until within a few 
days of his death, that we have an account of further 
proceedings. — Editor. 

Journal. 

" Monday, ^th February, 1867. — Palgrave came down 
during the night ; looks very well ; does seem to think 
that getting Samuel out of the way would be of much 
use ; but surely some beginning ought to be made, or 
we have no earthly chance of ultimately bettering our 
condition. 

" Tuesday, %th February. — Chykongo (the chief) has 
assured me he will abide by his promise to the Euro- 
peans some time ago in regard to Samuel and his 
party. It is now understood that we withdraw to some 
healthier locality, while waiting the result of this affair. 
To go away altogether without knowing the fate of 
Samuel (as far as it can be known) would be folly. 
Chykongo might prove treacherous were we gone, 
11* 



250 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Many people are sick ; a Damara died yesterday, and 
others are expected to follow. Raining ; the country 
literally steeped in water, though here and there dry ; 
all the intervening parts are submerged. I don't won- 
der it is unhealthy. 

" Wednesday, 6th February. — Went out with Axel 
to hunt water-hens and procure eggs ; succeeded in both 
objects. Rainy in the afternoon. 

" Thursday, yth February. — Poor Axel down with 
fever, and I myself feel very queer. God grant that 
I may escape ! Even Green had an attack. Chykongo 
does not at all like the idea of withdrawing all my peo- 
ple ; he has taken a fancy to Een,* and is very loth to 
part with him, assuring me that there shall be no dan- 
ger to him or my property from Samuel. I don't think 
it will be of any great advantage to me to let Een re- 
main ; but I should wish to show my appreciation of. 
Chykongo's kindness to white men by acceding to his 
wishes. Have sold the long rifle to Pereira for three 
hundred pounds of ivory ; but I shall make nothing by 
the bargain, as sooner or later I must order a similar 
one from England. I have now more than three thou- 
sand pounds weight of ivory, which my people have 
collected in Ovampoland, and hope that quantity will 
be increased by several hundredweight before reaching 
Otjimbingue. Heavy, soaking rain all round. 

" Friday, &th February. — Took another emetic, 
which has caused me much pain. Could Green have 
given me too great a dose ? Have made up my mind 
to remain here, and send Een home with the wagons ; 

* The sea-captain that Andersson took into his service when in Goth- 
enburg. — Ed. 



PREVALENCE OF SICKNESS. 25 I 

I cannot say I like the arrangement, but there is hardly 
an alternative. 

" Saturday, gth February. — Continue very ill ; am 
quite sure I am suffering from some other disease beside 
dysentery. My head aches dreadfully ; have got much 
writing to do, but am utterly unfit for it, or, indeed, for 
work of any kind. 

" Monday, lot/i February. — I am just a little better ; 
my wagons and people are off. The atmosphere has 
cleared up lately and I think we are likely to have fine 
weather for awhile. Axel continues poorly. Palgrave 
arrived ; his people are getting better. 

"Tuesday, \2th February. — Exceedingly unwell; 
Palgrave left. Chykongo paid me a visit yesterday ; to- 
day he sent me some corn, of which I told him I stood 
in need, and also a young ox. 

" Wednesday, 1 ^tJi February. — T arrived ; says 

Een has gone to Ovaquambo. The hunters talk of 
finally breaking up their camp in a day or two. It is 

high time ; they are a vacillating, dilatory set. H 

returned ; he has had an attack of fever since he left, 
and is still weak. 

" Thursday, 14th February. — Signs of the rain return- 
ing ; much thunder and lightning in the distance ; even 
a little rain fell. 

" Friday, \$tk February. — T , H , H 

and Pereira, started for the hunting veldt, and conse- 
quently I am now alone, and fear I shall have a long 
and tedious time of it. 

"Saturday, i6t/t February. — Tormented to death at 
night by the mosquitoes, and by flies in the daytime. 
Spent a most horrid and restless night ; in fact, sleep 



252 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

was out of the question, and I therefore sat up to read 
and write. Have taken up a Portuguese Grammar, to- 
gether with a Dictionary obtained from Palgrave. It 
does not seem so difficult a language, only I have no 
one to help me with the accents and pronunciation. I 
am determined, however, to know something of it, as in 
the event of reaching the Portuguese settlement, it will 
serve me in good stead. It has struck me as a good 
plan to get as far as Hombe, and there leave Axel while 
I proceed to Massamedas. Chykongo called on me, 
and took a fancy to my pea-rifle, which he insisted on buy- 
ing, but I should not like to part with it. Moreover, I 
could never obtain from him a fair price. He sent me 
two large bull-elephant tusks, weighing together about 
one hundred and thirty pounds. He is also desirous of 
possessing two of my double detonating rifles ; for flint 
guns he seems not to care. My head continues to ache ; 
still, on the whole, I feel better. Axel, thank God, is 
so far recovered as to be able to resume his shooting. 

Goliath continues weak. H returned for a boy who 

had run away. Quantities of eggs continue to be 
brought us of the Gall pumila and Eupltaka. Raining 
all round, but far away. 

" Sunday, iyth February.— P 'aid a state visit to Chy- 
kongo, dressed in my best. Tasted his beer for the 
first time. He insists on having my pea-rifle ; offers a 
rather nice-looking double-barrelled rifle in exchange. 
This is a nuisance, the greater, as the pea-rifle can never 
be of any manner of use to him. 

"Monday, iStk February. — Chykongo returned my 
visit, and brought me an ox as a present. He came for 
the pea-rifle, and I have let him have it. I find the 



NICTAR-INA CALLARIS. 253 

rifle he offers in exchange shoots perfectly true, 
only the sight is too clumsy. It is of a very small 
bore. I know the gun, it was once Jones's ; the locks 
are defective. Axel out shooting. Brought home ten 
ducks and geese, which are a valuable contribution to 
the larder. He obtained also some eggs, though of 
ordinary kind. A heavy shower of rain late in the after- 
noon. Letters from Pereira and H . T is ill, 

and no improvement with the Damaras. They only got 
to the outskirts of the bush. Deluged with rain. I 
pity H ; may the poor fellow keep his health. 

" Tuesday, igth February. — Tremendous showers in 
the afternoon. Much improved in health ; able to eat 
any thing I like ; a state of things not experienced for 
several months. 

" Wednesday, 20th February. — Hard at work mapping 
out the last of my route, and preparing a new sheet for 
my contemplated journey to the Portuguese settlements. 
Of Mr. Hahn's information I can make nothing. Some 
Ovaka here yesterday, with whom I sent word to their 
chief that I was desirous of visiting him as soon as the 
rains, as well as the sickness, abated. The sextant that 
I obtained from Palgrave is a powerful instrument, but 
in bad condition. Have put it a little to rights, as 
also the box containing it, which was in a ruinous con- 
dition. Both my watches are out of order ; at times 
they go, while at others they stop. This is a very se- 
rious drawback. Axel away to the Omuramba, but got 
nothing ; says the place is impassable from mud, etc. ; 
brought home a nest of Nictarina Callaris. 

" Thursday, 21st February. — Axel out the whole day 
in search of specimens, but was unsuccessful in that 



254 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

respect ; he bagged, however, seven couple of ducks. 
The natives brought in some new eggs. At last I am 
in for what I long dreaded, viz., the fever, which, as 
usual, threatens to be very severe. 

"Friday, 22d February. — Continue very ill; can 
hardly hold up my head for five minutes together. The 
tongue, however, does not look so bad as might be 
expected. Received at last the long expected note 
from Een, dated Ovaquambo. He had succeeded in 
getting about twenty cows, three of which were for an 
old debt. The chief, Navremas, is desirous of seeing 
me ; he is annoyed at my not sending him a double- 
barrelled rifle. One of his head-men has run away 
from him with a number of cattle, and he begs me to 
get Chykongo (with whom, he says, the man has taken 
refuge) to send him and the cattle back. 

" Saturday, 2^d February. — Axel laboring assidu- 
ously in the vleys, but to little purpose. He complains 
of the difficulty of getting the birds to take w r ing, owing, 
no doubt, to their being so much hunted. The only 
two that he secured were shot with arrows by native 
lads beneath the surface of the water, one of them 
actually holding itself fast to a grass stalk by the bill.* 
A trifle better ; able to sit up, but great pain in my 
right leg ; sores are forming all over and around the 
large wound in front, and much redness in most parts. 
The heel is excessively tender. 

" Sunday, 2^th February. — Somewhat stronger this 
morning, but feel giddy and head sore. Cannot get a 
night's rest, owing to slight delirium and the mosquitoes. 

* This is corroborative of what many assert to be of frequent occur- 
rence, but which many, on the contrary, stoutly deny. — Ed. 



DEATH OF PEREIRA. 255 

Sent for and spoke to Chykongo about Navremas. 
Told me he would do his best, but said the chief in 
question was a bad man, and that his people were 
always running away from him. Told Chykongo that, 
if he would send a man with me, I would remonstrate 
with the half-mad chief upon his conduct. Should 
Chykongo really restore the cattle it would be a great 
triumph for me, and might be of value in my dealings 
hereafter with the native chiefs. Chykongo is suffering 
slightly from fever. My leg continues very queer ; it 
can be nothing but an old ailment that has returned in 
the shape of erysipelas. 

"Monday, 2^th February. — Not quite so well to- 
day ; able, nevertheless, to do some little work. Axel 
busy in collecting and cleaning shells ; succeeded in 
getting a goodly number. 

" Tuesday, 26th February. — Axel's success in the 
vleys is now apparently at an end. The water-hens 
refuse altogether to show themselves, and few or no 
eggs are obtainable. Jacob down with the fever. This 
is a great misfortune ; the greater as Goliath is not 
gaining strength. Thus both my servants are inca- 
pacitated. Looked over and scarified some of Pereira's 
sick cattle.* He never asked me to do so, but don't 

* This poor man, who was exceedingly well-educated, speaking sev- 
eral languages, and who for a length of time was in the employ of Mr. 
Andersson, recently met his death in a very sad way. Several articles 
had been stolen from him by some Bushmen, whom he succeeded in 
capturing at the werft of their chief, and who, by the aid of some Damaras, 
were conveyed to his wagon.' Night, however, overtook the party half- 
way, and Pereira, therefore, resolved to wait until morning before con- 
tinuing his journey. He was followed, unobserved, by three Bushmen, 
friends of the captives, who shortly before daybreak crept stealthily upon 



256 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

like the poor fellow to lose them for want of a little 
attention. 

"Wednesday, 27th February. — Cannot obtain sleep 
at night for mosquitoes. With the exception of head- 
ache, a slight weakness and pain in the left leg, I feel 
pretty well, and, if not worse again, shall have hopes 
of being in a fair way of recovery. Chykongo sent me 
the skin of the lion killed by his Bushmen. Axel shot 
a fine bustard, but of what species I know not. 

" Thursday, 2%th February. — The hyena took a goat 
of mine last night. He was followed by Axel a con- 
siderable distance. The poor goat was actually de- 
voured by the beast while still living. The dogs, 
though they followed the hyena, dared not attack him. 
Suffer from a severe headache, chiefly above the right 
temple, but do not think it arises from the fever ; it 
must be a cold. Goliath, since I gave him the quinine, 

his place of bivouac, and by the light of the fire, alongside which he was 
sleeping, discharged three poisoned arrows at him. The first entered the 
left breast ; he started up and seized his rifle, and while in the act of fir- 
ing, another entered his arm below the shoulder, causing him to drop his 
gun, and the next moment the third struck him in the stomach ; but the 
latter did not penetrate. With the deadly shafts still embedded in the 
flesh, poor Pereira discharged his rifle at the murderers, who fled, and 
made their escape in the obscurity of the early morn. He then summoned 
the Damaras to his assistance. The arrow which entered the flesh of the 
arm was cut out, but the other, which entered the breast, and appeared 
to have passed round the blade-bone, could not be extracted. He was 
carried on a rude stretcher, hurriedly made for the purpose, to his veldt 
home, where he lingered in great agony for five days. " The Bushmen's 
poison," the narrator of poor Pereira's death goes on to say, " is usually 
very fatal in its effects ; but in this instance it had evidently become weak 
either from exposure or age. Otherwise he would not have survived the 
fatal shafts for more than a few hours." — Ed. 



ATTACK OF OPHTHALMIA. 257 

is evidently getting stronger. Jacob continues ill ; he 
complains chiefly of his head. 

" Friday, \st March.— Notwithstanding a bad head- 
ache, went with Axel in search of ducks ; but we were 
very unsuccessful, bagging only two couples between 
us ; we, however, saw very few, and hardly any other 
kind of birds. Picked up a good many eggs of the 
P. Minor ; but it is the second lay, and not one nest 
had half its proper complement of eggs. Showery a 
little before sunset ; Jacob somewhat better. 

Saturday, 2d March. — Literally eaten up by the 
mosquitoes at night ; can get rto rest for them, and 
dread the return of darkness. Letters from Palgrave 
and Green, with a sketch of map of their late route ; 
I am very glad of this, as I can make nothing of Mr. 
Hahn's information. They have encountered great 
difficulties in their progress, what with fever and " door- 
slagt." The messenger says he is to return to the 
wagons, but not to remain. I hope thus once more 
to hear from my people. 

" Sunday, 3d March. — My eyes very bad ; I begin 
now to think it is the real ophthalmia. Chykongo 
paid me a visit, and informed me he had heard that 
the Damaras who conveyed my letters to Otjimbingue 
have just returned, less two of their number, who were 
killed in a skirmish with some Bushmen. Chykongo's 
two sons accompanied the Damaras. Mr. Hahn has 
gone to the Cape. Chykongo says also that the Da- 
maras have at last attacked Samuel and taken every- 
thing from him ; but ,we shall know better when the 
people arrive. The sky looks threatening ; I suppose 
we shall have some rain with the new moon. A poor 



258 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Damara woman died ; got her buried with difficulty, 
as we were short-handed. Poor creature ! she had been 
in a sinking state ever since my arrival ; don't suppose 
I could have done anything for her. 

"Friday, i$tk March. — Nearly a fortnight since I 
opened my Journal, and now it is with difficulty I can 
make the needful entries. I don't know what demon 
of perverseness possessed me to go out shooting when 
I was blind with ophthalmia, but eagerness for knowl- 
edge overruled common prudence. 

" During my illness, Chikaongombe (one of the two 
sons of Chykongo just spoken of) returned with three 
or four Hottentots, and fully corroborated the state- 
ment of the Damaras as to their attack on Samuel, 
and the success attending it. It appears that the Tot- 
ties (Hottentots) had just left the mountain with their 
1 treck,' with a view of coming here, when the Damaras 
arrived ; still the marauders loitered three days, and 
when attacked were in a state of intoxication, and 
unable to oppose their assailants. The plunder ob- 
tained by the Damaras consisted of two wagons (be- 
sides one which was burned), all the oxen, some guns, 
and one or two horses, leaving the Totties with one 
wagon, seven horses, and a few milk cows. 

" Samuel is now on this side of the mountain, and 
.apparently it is his intention to come here ; still I am 
told there are those in his camp who strenuously oppose 
his taking this step, urging that it can only lead to 
the destruction of the whole of them. Chikaongombe, 
who came here with three or four Hottentots, left 
again yesterday, is sanguine of success, and hopes to 
bring back with him both Samuel and his followers. 



TREACHERY OF BUSHMEN. 259 

Have had a conversation with one of the Damaras, who 
returned lately from Otjimbingue, and who repeated the 
story of the Bushmen having treacherously killed, two 
of their party because they would not give them meat. 
I have come to the conclusion that Bushmen, as a race, 
deserve no pity. The ,Berg Damaras are not, I fear, 
one whit better. It now turns out that the very men 
who occupy Otijkongo, and who professed friendship 
for us, proved themselves arrant traitors ; they have, 
in fact, carried the news to Samuel of my having 
passed their werft. One of the Hottentots told Jacob 
that such was the case. Well, if I ever pass that way 
again I will make such an example as will probably 
scare them for the future. The Damaras bring another 
piece of news from Otjimbingue, which is almost too 
good to be true — viz,, that Jonker has returned the 
cattle and wagons taken from Egger and Trinbo, to- 
gether with a small portion of the feathers. The thing 
is not impossible as the result of Stewardson's mission 
to him on my account. Kamahero* has sent me a 
letter to demand the rest of the things, and a large 
commando has passed on to T. Boyce's. I may thus 
really have a chance of having some value for my 
stolen property. Did not get much rain at change of 
moon, but there has evidently been a heavy downfall 
in many other directions. Employed yesterday and 
to-day in writing letters to the hunters, Chykongo 
having promised to give me a man as far as Ovagand- 
jera, whence they are to be forwarded. I hope the 
messenger will not fail me after all my trouble and the 
real pain I have undergone in writing, having had, in 
* The Chief of the Damaras. — Ed 



260 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

a measure, to feel my way across the paper. Have 
also written to my wife and V. D. Byle and Co. 

" Poor Axel, who fell ill of fever two days after 
myself, and was compelled to take to his bed, is very 
unwell ; so extremely weak. I forgot to notice that 
the Damaras told me it had rained very heavily in 
Damaraland before they left — both the Omaruni and 
Swakup were running — and on passing Omappi* they 
found it full of water ; and as they only saw the fence 
surrounding the grain, and nothing green, I suppose it 
was washed away. Still I fancy some little corner will 
escape, and thus enable me to prove whether grain will 
grow without irrigation in Damaraland. 

"Monday, 18//2 March. — Again several days have 
elapsed since I was able to post up my Journal; in 
fact, I have tried my eyes too severely by writing and 
other occupations ; but shut up in darkness as I am, I 
cannot lie on my back idle day after day. Axel is now 
convalescent, though, of course, very weak ; but plenty 
of strong food will soon put him on his legs again. 
The woman continues very ill, and last night, unfortu- 
nately, Karatoe, her husband, also fell sick ; Goliath, 
moreover, is constantly ailing. Yesterday it drizzled 
nearly the whole day. Kombonde, the heir-apparent, 
visited me hurriedly on Saturday night ; he is said to 
be very kind and civil to white men. 1 could not 
judge of his appearance, except that he seemed tall ; 
but Axel tells me he is good-looking and very manly. 

Letters from H and Palgrave ; the former is only 

a few days' journey from hence, having come to a dead 
lock in consequence of sickness and death among his 

* Andersson's newly-acquived little property. — Ed. 



WELCOME PRESENT. 26 1 

people ; he has lost his soi-disant wife and brother-in- 
law. He himself and his father are just recovering. 
Poor people ! he asks my advice what to do, whether 
to return here or proceed ; to adopt the latter course 
while alone he is afraid, on account of Samuel. Shall 
advise him to push on to Damaraland as fast as he can, 
as he can do no good here. Palgrave dates his letter 
fifty miles south of Ovagdjena, where he has been try- 
ing to sell his horse ; but after a delay oi ten days 
failed in getting the cattle promised him in return for 
it. The chief (Typaska) did not even send him a bas- 
ket of corn. Speaks of great drought at the place 
where he writes from, and of having ' trecked ' the 
whole day without finding water ; but it is so in this 
' changeland ; ' either you are knee-deep in water, or 
suffering the pangs oi Tantalus. I don't think I shall 
trouble myself to visit the chief just named, now that 
I am acquainted with his stingy nature ; it will, more- 
over, save me a gun, which is something gained. 

" Tuesday, igth March. — Sent off Kerger's boys. 
Feel feeble in my legs to-day ; hope fever is not the 
cause of my debility ; eyes excessively weak. 

" Wednesday, 20th March. — Thunder and lightning 
all around. Chykongo sent me a pig, a welcome pres- 
ent. Lost a calf in a singular and sudden manner. 
Karatoe and wife continue very poorly ; Goliath down 
every second day with some sort of complaint ; this 
morning a cow has kicked him. Axel has had a seri- 
ous relapse, and fell to the ground suddenly as if sub- 
ject to falling sickness. 

" Thursday, 21st March. — Axel very feverish nearly 
the whole night ; moaned and raved dreadfully. This 



262 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

morning he can hardly move or speak ; he looks very 
ill, and I much dread the result of the present attack. 
Chykongo here. 

" Friday, 22d March. — Thank God ! Axel some- 
thing like himself again ; at least, he is only weak, but 
otherwise able to eat, sit up, and even walk a little. 
This is a great relief to me, and if he has no return of 
the fever to-day I shall have hopes the poor fellow will 
speedily recover. Took a ride for the first time for 
nearly a fortnight, but fear it rather hurt me, as my 
eyes cannot bear the light. I must, however, take 
exercise of some kind in order to obtain sleep, which, 
of late, has quite deserted my pillow. Thunder and 
lightning, and even a few drops of rain, but nothing 
in earnest. Goliath, Karatoe, and wife continue in statu 
quo, and poor Jacob is suffering from boils under the 
arms. 

"Saturday, 23d March. — Karatoe is dead; poor 
fellow, how soon all was over with him ! The wife is 
rather better. My little family is in a sad state, not 
one being well. We shall have some difficulty in bury- 
ing the man, being so short of hands. Eyes bad, but 
fancy it is more of a cold than ophthalmia. 

" Sunday, 24th March. — Buried Karatoe, but obliged 
to carry him to the grave myself. At last we have 
got some rain ; it began about five, and is still pouring 
down as I write (eight o'clock) Axel is getting a little 
stronger. 

u Monday, 2$th March. — Went out 'egging,' and 
observed a couple of storks that were new to me ; got 
a double shot, but too far off. They were black be- 
neath, with white breast and neck (all round), black on 



RED-BILLED STORKS. 263 

the shoulder, otherwise of a grayish hue, bill red. 
Overtaken by heavy rains ; these have evidently now 
set in in good earnest. Jacob's ailment is clearly dys- 
entery ; cannot cure the disease with the medicines 
hitherto administered ; must try the regular treatment. 
I am very helpless now, having to do all sorts of work 
myself. To-day I have been doctor (of both man and 
beast), cobbler, tailor, sempstress, etc., etc., besides 
having to stable- horses and donkeys, look after cattle, 
etc. Chykongo sent me some mats, but they are not 
so well made as the one I so much admired. 

" Tuesday, 26th March. — The morning set in rainy, 
but the rain soon ceased and the day became fine, 
though the sky remained densely clouded. During the 
morning my time was occupied in much the same man- 
ner as yesterday ; but in the afternoon I took a long 
walk, rather longer, in fact, than was comfortable ; suffer 
very much in my toes and heels when walking far. 
Found a couple of valuable nests. It is rather more 
than three weeks since I fell sick, and yet my eyes 
trouble me much ; at a little distance everything looks 
dim and obscure. 

" Wednesday, 2jth March. — Eight hours in the sad- 
dle to-day, scouring the country in search of specimens 
and eggs ; had long shots on three several occasions at 
the huge red-billed storks, but although I heard the 
shots rattle on their plumage like the pattering of rain- 
drops on a house-top, they took not the slightest notice. 
No improvement with Jacob, must give him a second 
emetic to-morrow. 

" Thursday, 2W1 March. — Too tired for the ride I 
had proposed to myself. The hyena killed one of my 



264 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

goat-kids last night ; will, if possible, destroy it by poi- 
son, which I shall place near to the grave of poor Kara- 
toe, the scent of whose corpse will probably attract it 
to the spot. I half killed the beast two days ago, he 
having for the second time murdered some chickens. 
Warm day, thurtder and lightning all aroiind ; shifted 
the sheep kraal. 

" Friday, 29th March. — Several hours in the saddle ; 
took with me the rifle in hopes of again falling in with 
the large storks that I have lately endeavored to knock 
over with small shot, but could find none. Sun very 
hot ; felt exceedingly poorly on returning home ; head 
and neck ache. Jacob very sick ; don't know what to 
do with him. 

" Saturday, 30/A March. — Took a short ride in a 
new direction. No water in the vleys ; met with five 
Eforemas, and certainly killed one of them, but could 
not find it in the long grass ; shot a quail of a species 
new to me. Omitted to notice that the hyena devoured 
the poisoned carcase I had laid out the other night, and 
has probably received his quietus ; I am thoroughly 
glad of this. Seems inclined to rain. 

"Sunday, ^\st March. — Paid Chykongo a visit, the 
first I have made him for a very long time. He was 
with me yesterday ; took me into his Sanctum through 
the most, serpentine walks, lined on both sides with 
treble, and even quadruple, rows of poles or planks. 
Why, the place would stand cannonading ; no native 
enemy could possibly take it, provided it was well sup- 
plied with water and provisions. Inquired of the chief 
as to the breed of dogs I had seen about, which I 
thought might be a cross between the native and some 



THE OKAFEMA. 265 

mongrels belonging to the Europeans ; but it seems 
they are purely natives. They differ a good deal from 
those of the Bushmen, and the face is generally blacker. 
They are of all colors. 

" Monday, \st April. — Eight hours in the saddle, and 
riding hard a great part of the time. Saw comparatively 
few water-fowl, and those excessively shy. Very un- 
lucky in my shooting ; lost three ducks and two small 
herons, and returned home very unwell. Jacob again 
down with his old complaint. The old woman and 
Ouairi very poorly ; were it not for Axel and Kaniko, I 
don't know what I should do. The weather hot ; fancy 
we shall soon have rain again. Saw three or four 
Okafema ; they wear ' hats ' on their posteriors as the 
Ovaguamyama. 

" Tuesday, 2d April. — Stayed at home, not being 
very well, and sent Axel out shooting in my stead. 

" Wednesday, 3d April. — On horseback for some 
hours in search of specimens, and obtained a few. Feel 
very poorly ; head-ache, pain in breast and stomach ; 
finished roughly chapter on the Ovampo. 

" Thursday, \th April. — Axel away to the Omu- 
ramba, but not very successful. Myself very poorly ; 
my legs won't carry me for five minutes together ; 

have all the symptoms of fever about me ; also ill. 

Not one of us now in health, Chykongo told me that 
this is a very unhealthy time, and truly he is right. 

'• Friday, $th April. — Confined to bed nearly the 
whole day ; such curious pains in the bowels. Toward 
evening, Axel started' for the Omuramba, intending to 
sleep there, with the object of getting out early to- 
Weather very hot. 
12 



266 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

" Saturday, 6th April. — Oh, misery ! Axel returned 
from the Omuramba at an early hour, deadly ill of fever. 
This is terrible ! I would fain hope, however, that the 
attack will pass away quickly. I suspect he has of late 
taxed his strength too much. I myself continue poorly ; 
but able to sit up and do a little writing, etc. I even 
skinned and prepared one of the pair of beautiful little 
geese killed by Axel. Fine breezy day ; nevertheless, 
the heat is great. 

" Sunday, Jtk April. — Worse and worse. Jacob 
apparently seriously down with fever, and, with the 
exception of a solution of quinine in a small bottle, 
which I reserve for my own use, the whole of mine is 
gone. Fortunately Axel is a little better to-day, and 
able to attend to his ordinary duties. I tried to do 
something myself, but from excessive weakness could 
not accomplish much. Chikaongambe returned, but 
without the Hottentots who accompanied him from 
hence. I was much afraid such would be the case ; the 
fellows were no doubt spies, and heard enough while 
here to arouse their suspicions. Samuel talked of 
retracing his steps to Otjeronjupa ; thus we are in the 
same position as before, as regards this wretch. Chika- 
ongambe says that some Damaras have followed the 
Totties and captured five of their horses. What fools, 
not to have endeavored to kill the marauders! How 
am I to get my wagon here in safety? * 

" Monday, Sth April. — Very hot day ; after sunset 
thunder and lightning, and the night promises to be 
dirty. Axel and Jacob very poorly. Have at last suc- 
ceeded in getting a herd from Chykongo, or we should 

* On its return from Otjimbingue, Andersson means. — Ed. 



UNSUCCESSFUL OBSERVATION. 267 

have been quite helpless. Poorly myself, but able to 
knock about a little, and do some work. 

" Tuesday, gth April. — Spoke to Joseph about 
accompanying me ; told him my intention of starting on 
my journey to the Cunene very soon ; but fancy he 
seemed rather unwilling; at present he is ill with fever. 
Axel and myself a trifle better, but Jacob and the rest 
remain very poorly. 

" Wednesday, 10th April. — Chykongo with me ; in- 
formed him of my purpose of setting off next month, 
and asked for Chik and a few people, which he readily 
promised. But though I talk of departing from hence, 
shall I be able ? Not one of us is well ; all are so indis- 
posed to-day that, had not I myself been able to crawl 
about a little, we should have been in a very awkward 
position. None of those who have been long ill gather 
strength, notwithstanding that I feed them well ; but I 
want quinine. Chykongo promised to sent word to 
Pereira as to what has taken place with Samuel ; this 
will relieve my mind in that quarter. Presented the 
chief with a handsome pair of ear-drops of steel, and a 
cow. Weather frightfully hot. Tried my sextant for 
the first time, but it was as much as I could do to hold 
it against the fiery orb. Somehow my observation mis- 
carried, though I thought I had an excellent meridian 
altitude. My eyes trouble me very much. 

" Thursday, nth April. — Tried my hand for the first 
time in taking lunars. It is a little difficult without 
any assistance, but with practice I must and shall suc- 
ceed. Pity my eyes and general health are so bad. 
After the exertion of to-day and yesterday, and ex- 
posure to the sun, I feel very poorly. Axel fortunately 



268 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

is a little better, thank God ! but the rest won't move 
during the livelong day from their recumbent position. 
A Damara is an annoying and miserable being when 
sick ; but indeed, this seems to be generally the case 
with the natives of South Africa. Livingstone reports 
similarly of the Bakwains. Had the curiosity to count 
the number of seeds in ears of the small sort of grain 
cultivated by the Ovampo ; in one I found 2,140, and 
in another 2,200, and these were only average sized 
ones. I am sure I have seen ears quite twice as large. 

"Friday, \2th April. — Utterly unfit for work; feel 
as if bruised all over. My legs won't carry me ; head- 
ache, etc. ; all clearly fever symptoms. Began this 
morning cutting out a pair of leather ox saddle-bags. 
Don't know what to do for hides and reins. I now 
regret having parted with mine to Pereira. Clouds 
rise toward noon, but disappear before sunset. 

"Saturday, \^th April. — Very poorly; Jacob sink- 
ing ; no improvement with the Damaras, speaking gen- 
erally. Axel continues pretty well, but weak. 

" Sunday, \\th April. — Sat up till two o'clock this 
morning practising lunars and latitudes ; weather begins 
to be chilly at night. Fear I shall suffer after such un- 
usual exertions in my weak state. 

"Monday, i$th April. — Unable to accomplish much 
work, still I strive hard to do a little every day. Poor 
Jacob ! I have now very little hope of his recovery ; the 
last emetic does not seem to have done him the slight- 
est good, and I dare not proceed farther. The lad is so 
weak, and he eats nothing. Chykongo is about to'go 
elephant-hunting. 

" Tuesday, 16th April.— Overtasked my strength 



SEVERE ILLNESS. 269 

altogether to-day ; have made a light travelling mattress 
out of the old one ; it will serve as a kind of cushion for 
a pack-ox, and thus not be in the way. That rascal 
Joseph has not responded to my call, and I myself must 
now do the whole work of preparation for the journey. 

" Chykongo came past with a large hunting party. 
I only observed about twenty guns. It seems the chief 
utterly discards the Portuguese fire-arms, having lost 
all faith in them since the introduction by the European 
hunters of superior rifles. Very poorly ; head and neck 
ache, and that dreadful pain in my stomach, which has 
now continued for more than three weeks. What can 
it be? Is the liver out of order? At times agonizing- 
pain in chest. Not doctor enough to prescribe for my- 
self; am afraid of aperients and purgatives ; instead of 
lowering the system I require tonics. Poor Jacob con- 
tinues terribly weak; I dare do no more for the lad. 
The old woman and the children continue in the same 
state. What is to be done with these people when I 
leave ? I cannot wait for their recovery ; as it is, I 
fancy I am risking my own life by remaining here ; 
Chykongo will never know the sacrifice I have made in 
delaying so long. Weather cloudy and close. Shall 
we have a little more rain ? 

"Wednesday, i8t/i April. — Continue wretchedly 
weak, and that troublesome flatulency continues. Jacob 
eating a little to-day ; but still I have no hopes of the 
poor lad. 

" Thursday, igtk April,— Spent a very bad night ; 
the little giblet soup I partook of last evening dis- 
tended my stomach till it resembled a drum-head, and 
the pain in consequence was very severe. I had, in 



270 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

addition, slight attacks of ague and fever. Oh ! when 
will this end ? This morning I tried cold dripping wet 
sheets, and the wearing of a wet stomach-pack. Ther- 
mometer at noon, in the shade, 8 1 degs. 

" Friday, 20th April. — Very bad night ; pain in the 
stomach continues unabated. Felt quite faint from 
want of food, and, disregarding all consequences, par- 
took of an ounce or two of boiled lean mutton and a 
plate of soup. Notwithstanding my indisposition, I 
got through a good deal of work. The big pair of 
pack-saddles are nearly ready, and those for the don- 
keys quite. Jacob remains in the same state, but eats 
heartily ; what am I to do without him — the only inter- 
preter I have? Thermometer inside the house, 8i°. 
Continue slowly the perusal of Livingstone ; it is a won- 
derful book, and the author a still more wonderful man. 
What a mass of information he possesses on various 
subjects ; and then his fortitude and perseverance under 
the most trying circumstance are truly marvellous. 
Poor Venus ! my best dog, died suddenly yesterday 
afternoon. Axel thinks she has been sick some time. 
What beasts those Ovampo are ! I had scarcely 
turned my back on the carcass before some lads, who 
were near, whipped it up and devoured it. 

" Saturday, 2\st April. — Acted the cobbler to-day ; 
my last ' sick ' boot* has long been ailing, and as it is 
pretty comfortable, I have done my best to make a 
neat job of it. I have, moreover, attended to sundry 
other little matters in relation to the journey ; but I 
generally pay dearly for my exertions. I am ' as weak 
as a rat,' and very much afraid that the acidity in the 
* One of a peculiar form for Andersson's crippled leg. 



THE EFOREMA. 27 1 

stomach will end in dysentery, which God forbid ! 
Poor Jacob ! by this disease he has been reduced to a 
shadow. Fancy I have at length discovered the family 
to which that curious bird Eforema belongs. If I am 
not mistaken it is allied to the Abyssinian horn-bill, 
or it may be identical with it. Thermometer hardly 
reached 8o° to-day, and yet it has felt very close in 
consequence of the thunder and lightning that is in 
the air. 

" Sunday, 22d April. — Very poorly, and even 
weaker than usual. As yet the cold dripping sheets 
and wet body bandages have wrought no improvement 
in my health. Jacob as usual ; the rest of my people 
in the same state as for some time past. Getting hard 
up for eatables, have repeatedly sent to Chykongo, but 
can get nothing from him. One of his wives, however, 
on my applying to her, brought a basket of beans 
of both kinds, and some meat. Thermometer under 
veranda at one P. M., 85 ; cloudy, with thunder and 
lightning, but very little rain. 

"Monday, 23^ April. — Enjoyed a pretty good 
night, though troubled with dreams. Thought, con- 
sequently, to find myself stronger, but scarcely had I 
got over my cold bath before excessive faintness took 
possession of me ; forced myself for awhile to work, 
but at last was glad to take to my bed. Thermometer 
under veranda from noon to three P. M., about 87 , 
at sunset 8o°. 

" Tuesday, 2\th April.— O God! what' a night I 
have spent ! This indigestion, flatulency, or whatever 
it may be, will kill me if it continues much longer. I 
can hardly hold the pen, and my breathing comes so 



2J2 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

labored ; pulse nearly 90 . Generally feeble. Goliath 
down with fever ; Jacob's appetite increasing wonder- 
fully. I have just managed to finish Livingstone ; like 
the book far better triis time than on my first perusal 
of it. He is certainly a most remarkable man. 

" Wednesday, 2^th April. — Another dreadful night. 
With desperate effort I mounted my horse for a little 
fresh air and exercise ; could only walk him about. 
Counted a good-sized ear of Holcus Sorghum, and 
found close on fifteen hundred grains in it ; another 
ear, now lying before me, is apparently twice its size. 
Thermometer at sunrise 6o°, at noon 87J , sunset 8o° ; 
wind northerly. 

" Thursday, 26th April. — Spent another bad night ; 
it is now nearly three days since I ate anything. Had 
a fowl killed and broiled ; I sadly want meat, but it 
may not agree with me. There is something so very 
painful about my stomach as at times to amount to 
agony ; I, moreover, feel so weak occasionally as hardly 
to be able to rise from my bed. Fancy the cold body 
bandage does me harm, and I shall, therefore, dis- 
continue it for awhile ; too weak to sponge my body. 
Averse as I am to medicine, I would give much to have 
a skilful doctor's advice and attendance. Jacob looks 
miserable, poor fellow ; he spent the night at the quar- 
ters of Chykongo's chief wife, where he was made to 
partake of some doctor's stuff. Rumor says the Bush- 
men have killed a large male elephant ; I hope it is true. 
Thermometer at sunrise, 56J ; noon to three P. M., 
88° ; sunset, 8o°, Weather feels very oppressive ; a 
few clouds about, but I fancy we have done with the 
rains for this season. Goliath very poorly. 



A BAD NIGHT. 273 

"Friday, 2Jth April. — Again a bad night, though 
not quite to the extent of the two or three preceding 
ones. I am consumed with thirst ; but everything I 
drink, be it water, toast and water, or what not, is 
instantly converted into gas. Took my usual horse 
exercise this morning, but felt very weak after it ; 
always suffer most toward evening and during the night. 
Jacob decidedly getting better, but still very feeble. 
Thermometer at sunrise, 59 ; noon, 89 ; one o'clock 
P.M., 90 ; sunset 8i°. 

" Saturday, 2%th April. — Horse lost last night, and, 
as a consequence, no ride for this morning. It is too 
bad of Chykongo's people not to look better after the 
stallion, as he it is that draws away the mares. Ther- 
mometer at sunrise, 56 ; noon, 87 ; one o'clock, 89 ; 
and at three, 90 ; sunset, 82 . 

" Sunday, 29th April. — Very ill last night ; about 
midnight obliged to get up and take a few drops of 
morphia, which relieved me somewhat, but banished 
sleep. Took half-an-hour's exercise, and thought my- 
self the better for it. Actually able to give myself a 
good washing, and to eat a tolerable breakfast. In the 
afternoon again became very much troubled with wind, 
which caused me great pain ; feel sleepy. The country 
begins to wear an autumnal appearance ; the grain has 
turned yellow, except patches here and there of Holcus 
Sorghum, which still lingers in its spring dress. The 
grass is turning whitish, and drooping, and some trees 
are losing their leaves. Thermometer at sunrise, 56 ; 
noon, 87 ; one o'clock, 88°. 

" Monday, 10th April. — Another dreadful night ; the 
gasses seem to be most commonly generated toward 
12* 



274 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

nightfall, ending in terrible pain in the pit of the 
stomach, or on each or both sides of it. Took my 
morning ride with less pain than usual. The air is so 
pleasant that one fancies it is impossible not to be bene- 
fited by it ; but somehow I returned home weaker than 
I departed. Jacob seems poorly to-day. Thermometer 
at sunrise 53 , noon 87 , one o'clock 88°, sunset 82 . 

" Tuesday, 1st May. — Night even worse than the 
preceding : compelled to rise from my bed about mid- 
night, and administer to myself five or six drops of mor- 
phia, which afforded a slight relief; but am afraid it 
constipates the bowels. The quantity of gas in my 
stomach this morning was so great as to compel me to 
take a dose of salts, which had the desired effect, though 
without decomposing the gasses, which are what really 
trouble me. I don't know whether I act judiciously 
in taking any kind of medicine in my extremely debili- 
tated condition, but what am I to do ? I tried long 
enough without medicines ; God help me now ! I feel 
that if there is not soon some change for the better, my 
constitution cannot possibly hold out much longer ; I 
try strenuously, as I have always done, to bear up 
under all kinds of illnesses : but I am now at times so 
weak as to be unable to rise up from my chair or bed. 

" Thermometer at sunrise 54°, noon 88°, one o'clock 
89°, three o'clock 90°, sunset 83 . 

" Axel killed a fine large pau {Otis Kori). Poor fel- 
low ! he is very proud of his performance. The bird is 
in excellent condition, but weighs only twenty-two and 
a-half pounds. 

•' Wednesday, 2d May. — Managed the night pretty 
well by sticking to the small opiates lately begun ; took 



MORE LUNG-SICKNESS. 275 

also a small dose of calomel, and somehow fancied I 
was the better for it almost immediately afterward. I 
also indulged freely in drinking water obtained from 
crushed wheat, which at first I thought pleasant, but 
subsequently suffered severely from. Well, I must 
drink. Day dreadfully close and sultry. At sunrise 
the thermometer stood at about 6o°, noon 89 , at three 
o'clock 91 , and at sunrise 82 . 

" Chykongo returned last night, and his people to- 
day ; quite empty-handed, I am told. These Ovam- 
pos only frighten the elephants and make them sav- 
age. 

" Thursday, 3d May. — Terrible night ; for once, 
morphia had not the desired effect ; went out on horse- 
back ; had not had a gun in my hand before for several 
weeks. Had a fair chance at an Eforema, but this bird 
cares not a straw for No. 4. I will never go out again 
without having one barrel loaded with buck-shot. 

" Very close last night ; sky overcast as if it was 
about to rain. Thermometer at sunrise 63 , noon 88°. 

" Killed an ox lately bought from Chykongo's son, 
which must at the time have been suffering from lung- 
sickness ; sent the chief the neck and hide, the rest of 
the carcass we have carefully jerked, and it must last 
us a long while. 

" Friday, 4th May. — Tolerably easy last night, with 
a single dose of morphia, and a small one of calomel 
toward morning ; but tongue looks very bad. Rather 
chilly before sunrise, when the thermometer stood 54 ; 
noon, 84 ; sunset, 8o°. The mornings are just bear- 
able, but after twelve o'clock it is just the reverse. 
Have indulged to-day in a glass and a half of milk, and 



276 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

a sip or two of beer, neither of which, I suspect, has 
done me much good. 

" Chykongo with me ; he has promised to get things 
ready for my journey ; but it seems doubtful whether 
Chykongo will be able to accompany me ; if not it will 
be a serious disappointment. 

" Saturday, %th May. — A bad night, attributable in 
some measure I believe to my having taken a few drops 
too many of morphia, which constipated the bowels. 
Poor Jacob ! down with a raging fever. Well, I must 
now give up all hopes of taking him to the Cunene, 
though it will be hard for me to be without an inter- 
preter. Atmosphere chilly this morning ; thermometer 
down to 49 , half-an-hour before sunrise ; at noon, 88° ; 
one o'clock, 88° ; sunset, 82 . Caught Chykongo's son 
in the act of abstracting a pound of fine gunpowder from 
the packed saddle-bags. I can stand it no longer, and 
will complain to his father. 

" Sunday, 6th May. — Bad night ; ate a little arrow- 
root late, and fancy it was too much for the stomach. 
Thermometer, sunrise, 52 ; noon, 88°; sunset, 83 . 

" Monday, Jt/i May. — Rather uncomfortable night ; 
took a large draught of buttermilk, it looked so tempt- 
ing. Closed my letters of yesterday to Mr. H , Eert, 

Palgrave, Hartley, and wife. It is still with difficulty 
I can guide the pen for five minutes together. Cloudy 
and close. Thermometer from noon to three o'clock, 
88° to 91 °, according as the sky was bright or overcast. 
Jacob excessively low ; have now no expectation of be- 
ing able to take him on the journey; if 1 did, it would 
only remain to leave him where he might be worse than 



ILLNESS OF INTERPRETER. 277 

here. Should he get better he could join me in the 
Ovaquenjana by-and-by. 

" Tuesday, %th May. — Oh, horrors ! the letters sent 
for the hunters nearly two months ago were returned to 
me last night. This is a great misfortune, as one of 
them related to my wagon, which was to meet me 
here on its return from Otjimbingue, about August. 
Again Chykongo sent to say he could only supply me 
with one pack-ox. This is really too bad, having pre- 
ferred my wants to him nearly two months ago. I can't 
get anything from him. Have sent for the old gentle- 
man this morning. Jacob has a lucid interval, and I 
might have a fair opportunity of explaining everything. 
" Wed,7iesday, gtk May. — Rode up to the chief's werft, 
but though I waited there a long time he did not show 
himself. Left word I expected him at home at once, 
where I soon afterward had the satisfaction of seeing 
him. Poor Jacob ! so weak as hardly to be able to ar- 
ticulate, much less to interpret properly. Altogether 
• it was the most languid and unsatisfactory interview 
that I had had with the chief. There is evidently some- 
thing wrong; he seems to be careless of my reproaches. 
However, he says the people shall be ready to-morrow 
morning, when he will himself come down and see me 
off. May he keep his word. Declares that Joseph has 
absolutely refused to accompany me. Really such a 
scoundrel deserves severe chastisement, and I hope to 
live to see it inflicted ; the man is without feeling thus 
to leave me in the lurch. 

" Thermometer at sunrise, 50 ; at one o'clock P. M., 
84 ; and at sunset, 76 " 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Start for the River Cunene — Arrival at Nauma's werft — Ugly women — 
Extraordinary spectacle — Author's life endangered — Singular hair- 
dressing — Hyenas troublesome — The iron mine — Typandeka's hos- 
pitality — A great misfortune — Reach the Cunene — Altercation with 
ferry-men. 

AS will be gathered from the last chapter. Anders- 
son's health was at the time in a most precarious 
state, whence one would have supposed he would never 
have ventured on the journey he was about to under- 
take ; but on the contrary, that he would have lost no 
time in heading back to his quarters at Otjimbingue, 
where medicine, proper food, etc., of which the poor 
fellow stood so much in need, were obtainable ; but 
though quite aware of the desperate risk he ran, his 
indomitable spirit determined him to carry out his long 
cherished purpose of proceeding to the Portuguese set- 
tlement of Benguela, which, in fact, he all but accom- 
plished, though, as the reader will presently learn, at 
the sacrifice of his life. — Ed.] 

JOURNAL. — From Ondonga to the Cunene. 

" Thursday, lothMay, 1867. — Chykongo proved true 
to his word, though he arrived with his men very late. 
However, we effected a start from his place about 10.45. 
But my outfit, so to say, was a very sorry one ; having, 
as I have said, sent the wagons and the greater part of 



GOLIATH TAKEN ILL 279 

my people in advance, it merely consisted of a few pack 
and slaughter-oxen, some milk goats, and a riding horse 
for myself. A good many natives, whom the chief had 
placed at my disposition, accompanied me. Off-sad- 
dled at 2.15. Quite one and a half hour's delay. Stood 
my first day's exertion exceedingly well, considering 
that prior to setting off I had to work hard to get things 
ready, besides half packing the oxen. 

" Friday, nth May. — Left bivouac at 7.40; reached 
Kombonde's werft at 10.5. Not more than five minutes' 
delay. Course about 305 . Thermometer at sunrise, 
54°. Well received by the hereditary chief of Ondonga, 
who is said to be very stingy. Asked for a slaughter 
goat, but could only succeed in exchanging four of my 
dry milk goats for three supposed to be in milk, and 
one ram. Left Kombonde's werft in the afternoon 
(2.40 f. M.) ; bivouacked at 5.5. Perhaps five minutes' 
delay, but travelled slowly (Goliath taken ill) ; course 
about 306 or 307 . The night promises to be very 
cloudy. We are now in the wedge of Ondonga. Pal- 
grave, , and others lay here for some time. Observed 

a troop of ' Ahem ' cranes, consisting of ten. 

" Saturday, 12th May. — Very cloudy and close night. 
Thermometer about half an hour before sunrise, 78 . 
Horse not recovered for nearly an hour after we had 
packed. Nevertheless, effected a start at 6.30 A. M. 
Entered at once the bush that divides Ondonga from 
Ovaquambi. It consists chiefly of oxonlati, and is ex- 
ceedingly monotonous. A couple of months ago, the 
greater part of this country was under water, and now 
not a drop is to be seen. Halted at 9.30. Travelled 
well ; course winding from 296 to 315°, average per- 



280 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

haps 305 . Off again at one P. M. Passed a couple of 
small vleys in half-an-hour. Filled our ' vabye,' and 
proceeded till 3.40, when we- camped for the night, the 
men looking very tired. About twenty-five minutes, 
delay. Road very winding ; course perhaps 31 5 . The 
bush not changed in character. 

" Sunday, i^th May. — Cloudy first part of night, 
but it cleared up after midnight. Thermometer at 
sunrise, 50 . Left bivouac at 7.J ; reached first village 
(rather cluster of villages) of Ovaquambi at 1 1. 1 5. 
About half-a.n-hour's delay ; course perhaps 215° (220 ). 
The approach to the country is very beautiful, consist- 
ing of fine grass savannas, here and there dotted with 
lovely island-like clusters of trees. Presented with two 
young cattle, one of which I slaughtered for my own 
people and for our new-found friends. Nauma keeps 
up his name for hospitality and friendliness for Euro- 
peans. Loaded with dishes of porridge. There seems 
a great number of hamlets clustered together at this 
point. Can there be any particular object in this 
arrangement, or is it simply that the soil is universally 
favorable ? Very sick. 

" Monday, 14th May. — Though exceedingly ill, I 
tried hard to get an observation last night, but finding 
the sky obstinately cloudy, I unfortunately desisted, as 
toward midnight it cleared up beautifully. Thermo- 
meter a little before sunrise, 54 . Left bivouac about 
5.3 A.M.; reached Nauma's werft at 11.35. Some 
twenty minutes' delay ; course about 350° ; too long in 
the saddle. Found Nauma nearly as he had been rep- 
resented to me. But what surprises me most is his 
physiognomy, which is so different from that of his 



APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 28 1 

people. He reminds me exactly of old April at 
Otjimbi. He was dressed in a blue-striped shirt, mole- 
skin trousers, and " veld " shoes, with a small wide- 
awake hat on his head. Clothing does not misbecome 
him! Unlike other African chiefs, he did not let me 
wait for his arrival, but came up before I had off-saddled. 
We shook hands. Scarcely had we off-packed when he 
presented me with two sheep and a pig. Got also a 
can of honey from him ; the very thing I have so much 
longed for. Ate some of it at once, but it disagreed 
with me, though I hope it will ultimately act as a laxa- 
tive, my chief object in partaking of it. Can get no 
milk ; all the cows have been sent away, the calves 
having died of lung-sickness. Must try to buy a few 
goats in milk. Found my old servant Africa just risen 
from his bed after a long attack of fever ; very weak and 
hardly able to move about ; willing enough to accom- 
pany me. While on the road here, it struck me it 
would be a good thing to get the loan of Nauma's cart, 
I dare say he will let me have it to the Ovaquamyama. 
Several Ombranderas were pointed out to me. This, 
I believe, is a tribe lately attacked by the Ovampo and 
the Ovangandyera. It is one of those tribes who have 
no chiefs. 

" This country and Ondonga are almost fac-similes ; 
but there seems to me to be a trifling difference, viz., 
the cultivated portions run in parallel ridges with some- 
thing like well-defined ' omurambas ■ between, which 
portions must be more or less under water during the 
wet season. The ridges are covered with clusters of 
palm and other wild fruit-trees, but nowhere so plenti- 
ful as in Ondonga. The ground on these elevations is 



282 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

exceedingly well cultivated. The corn lands are much 
closer than in Ondonga. The latter has been repre- 
sented as much larger than Waguarambi, but I question 
it. There seem plenty of people about. Africa tells 
me that the country extends considerably to the north- 
ward, but less to westward. Nauma keeps a body- 
guard of some thirty or forty young men, who sleep in 
a shed abutting on his werft. These are ordered about 
on all sorts of occasions and business. Poor fellows; 
they are not allowed to grease themselves, which in this 
boiling climate must be a great privation. When the 
chief gives an order, the men are expected to run. 

" Tuesday, i$tk May, — Tried to have a little talk with 
Nauma, but it is hopeless, with such interpreters as I 
have. Has kindly lent me his cart and oxen ; the pole 
of the former is broken, but being well lashed with sup- 
ports, I am in hopes it may carry us safely to the 
Ovaquamyama. It will be a great comfort to have the 
vehicle, though small ; it is a sort of house. Have pre 7 
sented Nauma with my double-barrelled two-grooved 
rifle, in which I have no particular confidence, and hope 
he will give me some cattle in return. 

" Wednesday, \6th May. — Sat up till twelve o'clock 
last night taking observations, but, most strange to say, 
north and south differ some eight miles. Can the sex- 
tant have got injured ? The meridian altitude of the sun 
gives also a widely different result. Took no medicine 
last night, for the first time for many weeks past. / The 
honey does some good, though the stomach continues 
to feel frightfully distended. Left a bag of powder with 
Nauma for twenty milk goats and fifteen kids that he 
brought me. Asked the price of the rifle ; but told him 



CAPRICIOUS CONDUCT OF NAUMA. 283 

it was a present. Has promised to supply me with a 
herd. Sent half my party back to Ondonga. I have 
some suspicion that the rest will decamp ere long. Have 
treated them exceedingly well. On looking more 
closely at the pole of the cart I found it quite broken 
off, and consequently advisable to get a new one. 
Luckily Nauma has a piece or two of wood prepared in 
the rough. Had nearly finished it by sunset. 

" Thursday, iyt/1 May. — My Ovampo received a 
message last night from Nauma ordering them to sleep 
at a distance, on the plea that he and Chykongo were 
enemies. Confound such fancies ! I will not stand it, 
and will tell him so. It put the men in a great fright, 
and they feared to go to sleep. What a strange state 
these tribes stand in toward each other ; they never 
seem to be quite at peace. Luckily, their mutual wants 
compel them to keep open communication with each 
other, and thus trade and barter flourish in spite of the 
• enmity of the rulers. Tried hard again last night to get 
north and south observations to come closer; but no. 
The several sets came out beautifully, differing only a 
few seconds from each other ; but there is a difference 
of more than five seconds between north and south. 
What on earth can cause this ? It is also the case with 
my little sextant, and I don't understand how to correct 
it. I am much chagrined at this, as I had reckoned so 
much on being able to take lunars. However, I don't 
despair of getting over the difficulty. Nauma did not 
visit our camp, because, he said, the Ovampos were 
there, and yet he came to us daily before. Went to 
him in the afternoon and represented to him how unfair 
and capricious was his conduct. Made a fresh arrange 



284 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

merit with him — viz., I am to let the Ovampos return 
to their homes, he supplying me with the necessary 
complement of men in their stead. He insists upon it 
that the Ondonga people are no friends of the Ova- 
quamyama, as they are always shooting them off. This 
is contrary to Chykongo's statement, who assured me 
that they were great friends. I am quite at a loss to 
understand the motives and feelings of these people. 
There was Chykongo, for instance, declaring that he had 
sent twice to Nauma to make inquiries about the man 
who had run away with some cattle; but that chief 
denied such being the case. In fact no man had ab- 
sconded. Africa, however, declares that the man is 
now living close to Kombonde. 

" Friday, iZth, May — Therm., sunrise, 52°; sunset, 
78 . Did not effect a start till 8.30 ; waiting all the 
time for Nauma to bring some vegetables, according 
to promise, and after all I found we were to get the 
supply at some village ahead. Came to a halt at 9.40, 
course 55 . Here we got a few small baskets of meal 
and a couple of baskets of beans. This is shabby of 
Nauma, after the handsome present I made him ; the 
more so as I have only received from him a couple of 
cows and one slaughter-ox. Left again at 12.45. No 
more corn-fields in this direction. At two o'clock en- 
tered the bush ; bivouacked at 3.50 ; have experienced 
very great trouble with the people. Nauma has sent 
me the whole of his body-guard, besides a number of 
other men. These fellows are accustomed to be tyran- 
nized over by their master, and now that they find 
themselves masterless they show their devilish nature 
to perfection ; a greater set of scoundrels I never had 



THE OVAQUAMYAMA COUNTRY. 285 

to deal with. What on earth possessed Nauma to 
send them ? If he had given me three or four men it 
would have been quite sufficient, and I feel certain I 
should have got my work done properly. Now, if I 
issue an order, there is a general stare, and then a 
burst of laughter. One fellow had actually the inso- 
lence to imitate my poor limping gait. It is very un- 
profitable and undignified to be running after these 
fellows with a stick. We all know how troublesome 
it is to change servants ; but when servants are every 
time to be taught their duties afresh it becomes a heart- 
rending affair. 

"Saturday, igtk May. — Thermometer, half-hour 
before sunrise, 5 8°. Off again at 6.50 A. M. ; came to 
a halt at eleven. Road frightfully winding ; hardly 
know what course to put down ; say 65 . Left again 
at 2.29; till 4.5 course about 25 ; till 5.10, when we 
bivouacked, 45 . Plenty of water on this ' treck ; ' 
great dearth of birds and game ; observed, however, 
some 'spoor.' The only quadrupeds hitherto met 
with were a few zebras, two gnus, and a steinbok. 
Sun burned very much in the afternoon. 

" Sunday, 20th May. — Thermometer about an hour 
before sunrise, 43 ; afternoon, 79 . Thank God ! we 
are quit of the greater part of our escort. What is left 
don't promise much ; I never was more disappointed in 
my life. Left bivouac at 6.40; came to halt at 10.10 
A.M. For the first two-and-a-half hours course about 
20 ; afternoon, 85 . Road very winding. Water boils 
here at (defective thermometer) 206 ; best, 206 ; atmo- 
sphere five minutes previously, 79i°. If correct, this 
gives a fall of 1,000 feet since leaving Ovaguambi. 



286 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Hardly possible, and yet I cannot be mistaken. The 
fall and drainage of the Omurambas are directly north- 
ward to the Cunene. We have only just entered the 
Ovaquamyama country, and can, therefore, hardly judge 
of its appearance. Left again at 2.50 ; came abruptly 
to a standstill as early as 3.40, because a fellow says 
something about having to conduct us to the chief to- 
morrow. What a nuisance. Course about 85 or 90 . 
Thus far I rather like the country ; it is a great change 
from Ondonga and Waguambi. You cannot see a ham- 
let here till close upon it, being invariable buried, in or 
rather, perhaps, surrounded with, trees or bushes, and 
the whole, often several miles in circuit, encompassed 
by a stout hedge of thorns. There are plenty of fruit 
trees, besides the ordinary forest trees, but only one 
palm as yet. I have great hopes of making a good col- 
lection of specimens of natural history, should Typan- 
deka, the chief we are about to visit, prove favorable 
to us. The Omurambas have plenty of water and water- 
fowl. Observed large numbers of Sabini. The speci- 
mens of women hitherto seen are exceedingly ugly and 
unwomanly in appearance. They wear large skins 
clumsily arranged behind, and the hair is outrageously 
dressed. 

"Monday, 21st May. — Treated last night night by 
the chief with maggot-filled beans for supper. It would 
seem as if the natives could not keep this vegetable 
from one harvest to another without its being quite de- 
stroyed by worms. However, to them, I dare say it is 
of no consequence, nay, perhaps an advantage, since, 
when in the state described, the beans serve for both 
meat and bread. Treated to an extraordinary spectacle 



A TREACHEROUS SHOT. 287 

this morning. A number of women suddenly made 
their appearance, their whole bodies, the crown of the 
head excepted, being covered with ashes, giving them 
the most hideous appearance ; and, to heighten the 
disfigurement, they had strings of decayed corn-stalks 
slung across their shoulders, which produced a rattling 
sound when moving. They were without ornaments 
of any kind, the skins being attached to the waist by 
strips of bark. / 

" What can be the object of this hideous disfigure- 
ment? They began a kind of chant (one woman only 
in the first instance) terminating in a general shrill 
chorus, with a shout at the end of it. Could it have 
been as a compliment to us ? We were just intending 
to ' unspan,' when the chief insisted on our awaiting the 
return of the messenger from Typandeka, who soon 
afterward arrived, telling us we must wait three days 
before that chief could receive us. I felt sure this was 
an imposition, but said nothing. An hour afterward 
another messenger made his appearance, who informed 
us we might ' treck ' to the chiefs werft the next day at 
noon. I must, however, try to get off early Jo-morrow 
morning, as I cannot stand the sun. Axel out shoot- 
ing, but obtained only a few ducks and some common 
small birds ; says he saw some Lamprotonies of a new 
species, but from the description he gave of them, I 
suspect they were Talacoma Retsi. One of the men 
accompanying Axel was treacherously shot in the eye 
by an arrow. The poor fellow's companion tried to 
catch the intended murderer, but the bush favored his 
escape. The shaft was poisoned, and, in extracting it 



288 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

the eye was pulled out of the socket. Thermometer at 
sunrise, 64 ; noon, 84 ; and 74° at sunset. 

" 'Tuesday, 22d May. — Thermometer at day-break 
46 . The people told me not to ' treck ' until the sun 
got warm, but conceiving this to be merely a ruse for 
their own convenience, I effected a start at 7.19 ; and 
when they saw me resolved, no opposition was at- 
tempted. At first our course was nearly 330°, afterward 
the route wound about so very greatly that I am unable 
to determine it, perhaps 3c , 350°. About twenty min- 
utes' delay ; off again at 2.48 P. M. Arrived at Typan- 
deka's at 5.45 ; no delay, the road dreadfully circuitous. 
For the first hour we steered, I imagine 340 . After- 
ward between N. and 45 . Average perhaps 15 . 

" Compelled to strike one of the Ovaquamyama fel- 
lows for utter disregard to my orders, upon which the 
scoundrel had the audacity to level an arrow at me ; see- 
ing however that I did not flinch, he thought better of it; 
he being worse than useless to me I got rid of him forth, 
with. The rest, though bad enough, I can get on with. 

" What reception shall I meet with from Typandeka? 
The success of my future efforts depends entirely on his 
good-will. The sight of a white man and his accom- 
paniments are still a curiosity. Troops of men, women, 
and children are following us for hours. The cart seems 
chiefly to occupy their attention. The men, so far as 
I have seen, are fine-looking fellows, while the women, 
on the contrary, are frequently hideous ; in great part, 
however, owing to their attire. The way the hair is 
dressed is remarkable for both variety and ugliness ; it 
defies all description, with some it is made up in such a 
manner as to look like great coils of snakes. 



VISIT TO THE CHIEF. 289 

" Astonishing number of wild fruit trees about the 
hamlets ; but the palm is not quite so frequently seen 
as in Ondonga. The baobab is rather common, but 
quite small. The fruit is just ripe, I forgot that it was 
eatable till I saw my fellows partaking of it ; it has a 
pleasant taste, and contains a good deal of yellowish 
white pulp, with softish kernels, and longitudinally dis- 
posed thread-like veins which greatly interfere with the 
extraction of the eatable portion. 

" I have seen the redoubtable Typandeka, and was 
very well received. He even took me to his werft, 
which is very similar to Chykongo's, but more lightly 
constructed. The palisading is higher. After walk- 
ing through several open spaces, we entered the long 
avenue, at the end of which we began to zig-zag. 
Counted ten doublings ere we came to the sanctum sanc- 
torum, which was a fine large space surrounded with 
three or four huts, evidently his sleeping apartments. 
A woman covered with ornaments entered during our 
tete-a-tete, and on asking him if that was his wife, I 
understood him to say she was a dowager of his prede- 
cessor, but I am not sure. Before leaving the chief I 
witnessed some dancing of both sexes (they were held 
apart). The women clapped their hands to some words 
pronounced by one of them, the rest joining in chorus 
after each burst. The men kept jingling two sticks 
together, individuals occasionally springing out a few 
paces, as if in pursuit of something. On the whole it 
was more interesting than the dancing at Ondonga. 

" Typandeka very curious to know who was the 
greatest chief. Of course there was but one answer, 
and in this instance quite truthful. Presented me 
13 



29O NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

with a fine slaughter ox. The chiefs head was orna- 
mented with a great many (say from twenty to 
thirty) of the large white shells so much valued by 
African savages. He had also several about each arm, 
near the shoulder. Round his waist he wore an enor- 
mous stiff leathern girdle, quite eighteen inches in 
breadth. To this was attached four immense bunches 
of finely and evenly cut reims, arranged one behind 
and three in front, two of the latter being situated a 
little higher than the centre one. All these bunches 
are dyed jet black, while the girdle is smeared and 
greased with some red stuff. The effect is good. The 
figure of the chief is somewhat gawky, and he walks 
badly. The ornaments' just named are worn by com- 
paratively few. Can they be a sign of rank ? 

" Wednesday \ 23d May. — Took excellent southern 
star observations last night, but only one northern, 
and that was evidently just past the meridian. If 
not much out, the difference was little more than two 
minutes ; am anxious to get a few more to certify or 
disprove this approximation to correctness. 

" Slaughtered Typandeka's ox, which yielded ex- 
cellent meat, but little or no inside fat. The Ova- 
quamyama are getting worse and worse ; am half dis- 
tracted as to what is to be done with them. I am 
afraid to touch them ; must try and send home the 
worst. Typandeka paid me a visit in the afternoon, 
brought me an enormous basket of meal ; talks of buying 
my flint-guns, powder, etc. asked him what he would 
like to have, should my wagon return this way from 
Otjimbingue, but could get no decisive answer. Every- 
thing shown to him he would buy ; this I much doubt. 



GREAT DISAPPOINTMENT. 29 1 

" Weather rather close to-day, though the ther- 
mometer only ranged at sunrise, 55 ; noon, 8i°; sun- 
set, 75 . The sun scorches very much in the after- 
noon ; troubled with head and neck ache ; very poor- 
ly ; Goliath ill ; Africa improving, I think. Finished 
my letter to the Portuguese authorities, in English, 
Dutch, and Swedish. The Hollandish gave me the 
only trouble, never having previously indited half-a- 
dozen epistles in that language, and those were ad- 
dressed to people who understood not good Dutch. 

" Axel out shooting, but met with no success ; great 
scarcity of birds. No water, and consequently no 
waders. This is a great disappointment, as it may 
compel me to move ahead to the neighborhood of the 
river, which I should like to visit first. I have a mind, 
instead of requesting Typandeka to furnish me with 
men, to proceed with letter to the commandant at 
Humbi, that he would allow some of his people to 
accompany me to the Cunene, and the black chief of 
the Ongombi tribe, who I don't think trusts the Por- 
tuguese. Spoke to the Ovaquamyama last night about 
their disobedience, and said that I would require three 
of them to stay with me ; they appeared satisfied ; but 
would they take their departure, and leave those I 
have pointed out? I will not trust them. 

" Thursday, 24th May* — Thermometer at sunrise, 
51 ; noon, 8i° ; sunset, 75 . The Ovaquamyama have 
not yet faced homeward as ordered ; urge they must 
first be told by Typandeka that they are to do so. 
Well, if they choose to stay I will not feed them. 

" Sun scorchingly hot in the afternoon, suffered 
dreadfully to-day ; toward evening the pain became 



2Q2 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

almost unbearable, so weak as hardly to be able to hold 
up my head. When I think of what I am about to 
undertake in my present debilitated condition, the mat- 
ter looks desperate, but I must not be disheartened ; I 
have overcome worse difficulties. Quite at a loss to 
know what course to pursue, whether to attempt 
reaching Humbi first by going there on horseback, or 
trying to take the cart as far as the river? The latter 
course would be preferable, as I don't see how I am to 
divide my sick and weak party. On inquiring from our 
Ovaquamyama guide as to the nature of the country 
in advance, he declared it was too bushy for a wagon, 
but I would risk that, as we could make slow and short 
journeys. 

" Friday, 2$t/i May. — In vain I tried my sextant 
last night* with fresh corrections to index glass ; the 
result remains the same. Curiously enough, the merid- 
ian altitude of sun gives the same result as the aver- 
age of the N. and S., and S°. Took a dose of morphia 
last night, which helped me very much, and made me 
feel less heavy in the morning. In the afternoon the 
pain returned in all its force. Visited Typandeka at 
his request. There was great banqueting going on ; 
no men, however, except such as entered from time to 
time for orders, seemed to be allowed in his own 
' Kotla,' only some of his wives and children. Saw the 
drummers for the first time ; they hold the drum be- 
tween the legs, just above the knee, and then stoop 
forward, applying chiefly the palms of their hands to 
the parchment. In the middle of the latter is a large 
black patch of some gluey substance, which is constantly 
applied to. One purpose is evidently for stopping up 



FEMALE DECORATION. 293 

the places that have got windy. Made a rough sketch 
of the chiefs wife ; not her features, for she could not 
sit still a moment, but her dress and ornaments I got 
pretty well. The decorations on the heads of some of 
the women consisted of huge plaits of artificial hair, set 
closely with cowrie shell, the whole weighing certainly 
not less than thirty or forty pounds. The women thus 
decked are compelled always to support the hair with 
their hands. It strikes me that after awhile the whole- 
is cut off, for many women have quite short crops, with 
a few beads or other trifling ornament attached. I saw 
one with three hair-pins, the top forming a cross of 
ivory stuck upright at the back of the head, and the 
effect was not bad. I find some of the women wear a 
leathern girdle, with huge tassels attached, in like man- 
ner as the men. Thermometer, sunrise, 5I3- ; noon, 
8o° ; sunset, 75 . 

"Saturday, 26th May. — Spent a wretched night; 
am afraid I have to thank Typandeka's beer for that. 
Poor Axel continues to suffer from toothache, and 
Africa is in bed. Thus not one of us in health. Nieht 
quite close and very cloudy. Thermometer, at sun- 
rise, 62 ; noon, 8i°; sunset, 72 . Typandeka has pre- 
sented me with a tusk (ivory) of about forty-five pounds' 
weight, and a cow and a calf. He certainly behaves 
well toward me ; better, I fancy, than any other. 

" Sunday, 2 Jth May. — Hyenas and jackals exceed- 
ingly troublesome at night ; the dogs are very watchful, 
but keep a safe distance, from the first-named brutes. 
Without dogs, however, one could not rest in safety, 
exposed as we are. To set a spring-gun would be of 
no use, as the jackals would spoil all. Typandeka with 



294 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

me ; spoke to him about ordering such of the Ovaqua- 
myama as I did not require to return to their homes. 
He seemed but half inclined to undertake the task. 
At all events I am determined henceforth only to supply 
three of them with food. Made the chief a present of 
two pounds of coarse powder, and five pounds of com- 
mon beads. I find only certain kinds of the latter are 
bought for ivory, the rest cattle. He promised me two 
or three samples of the former. Rallied him about 
making me wait a day behind on first entering his 
country, to which he replied, that the werft was sickly 
at the time, and that it was needful to purify it before 
I could be seen. Of course this is all stuff. Told him 
to treat white men well, as it was by so doing that 
Chykongo had become the great man he was. ' With 
what shall I make my peace with them ? ' he inquired. 
' Oh, nothing in particular,' I rejoined ; ' only behave 
well to them, and don't deny their reasonable requests; 
if, for instance, they wish to hunt elephants in your 
country, or to visit the rivers, give them men and let 
them go.' He seemed pleased at hearing this, as my 
request appeared rather to startle him. 

" Monday, 2St/i May. — The hyenas continue to infest 
the neighborhood during the night, but all the dogs 
being then at large, we are well guarded. Were I well 
I would endeavor to kill some of them. The glands at 
the back of my throat are now swollen to such an ex- 
tent that it is with the utmost difficulty and pain I can 
swallow anything, even though it be only a little liquid. 
The ailment has assumed a more serious form than at 
Ondonga, where I had the white sore throat badly 
enough ; it now affects my whole head, and I have dif- 



A PITEOUS GATHERING. 295 

ficulty in pronouncing a few words. May it all end for 
the best ! But may it please Thee, Almighty God, to 
afford me some relief, as in my present weak condition 
I cannot well withstand such a complication of dis- 
orders. Poor Axel's teeth continue to give him much 
pain, and Goliath is helpless with his aching leg. Truly 
we are a piteous gathering. The Ovaquamyama have 
at length taken themselves off, leaving me only two -boys, 
which is just one too few for my purpose. I thought 
at one time that every soul of them had deserted. 
Another basket of meal ; but we are getting too much, 
as, do what we will, that which we already possess is 
spoiling. Thermometer at sunrise, 53 ; noon, 8o°. 

" Tuesday, 29th May. — Thank God ! the swelling in 
my throat has burst, and a quantity of disagreeable 
matter came away, which afforded instant relief; and, 
so far as the infliction in question is concerned, I now 
entertain hopes of a speedy recovery. Very ill in the 
afternoon, arising in great measure, I doubt not, from 
indulging in a cup of sour milk during the last two days. 
It is clear I must stick to solids as much as possible. 
The coldest day we have yet had ; the thermometer 
not rising to 8o° ; at sunrise, 48 ; noon to two o'clock, 
79 ; sunset, 72 . 

" Wednesday, $otk May. — Typandeka sent to say he 
was sick, and wished me to come to him ; but I had 
neither horse nor man at command. Very ill the whole 
afternoon ; the nights and mornings are just bearable ; 
the rest of the day I am so weak that it is with difficulty 
I can rise from my seat'. Toward nightfall, moreover, 
headache and pains in the back of the neck set in with 
great severity. Africa very poorly ; Axel obliged to 



296 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

lie down for awhile owing to toothache and cold shiv- 
erings, but toward evening was much better. I quite 
dread his falling ill, as he is now the only one I have 
to depend on. Read in Smollett to-day how the Duke 
of Buckingham (Villiers) debauched the Countess of 
Shrewsbury, and then published her shame ; and not 
content with this, he so repeatedly taunted her husband 
that the poor fellow was at last compelled to send him 
a challenge, which proved at once fatal to him. The 
same day the brutal Duke proceeded to the deceased's 
seat, where he lay with his wife, having previously 
shown her the blood of her husband on his sword. I 
am afraid I shall never get this terrible tale out of my 
head, and I fervently thank God I don't live in an age 
when brutality and force were the only qualities that 
ennobled a man. Good God! that such crimes should 
really be overlooked, and the man who committed them 
actually honored with the first place in the king's 
regards. 

" Thursday, ^\st May. — Typandeka with me ; asked 
him as to the situation of the iron mine, which he says 
is not far distant, and within his own country. As 
regards the last point, I have my doubts, being in- 
clined to think it lies in some district impoverished by 
his invasions. Promised to procure me a specimen of 
the ore. He declares that, with the exception of a few 
tusks of cow-elephants scattered about his werft, he 
has no ivory whatever ; if so, he must then have sold 
it to the Portuguese since Een was here. Promised 
me a basket and a copper-sheathed knife. 

" Friday, \st June. — The chief sent me as a present 
a four-pound tusk. Axel taken ill with fever during 



A SULKY OVAQUAMYAMA. 297 

the night. Went out shooting myself, but the horse 
having walked from me, I was compelled to foot it 
home. Fortunately I was equal to the task ; but had 
the same thing happened in the afternoon instead of 
the morning, I must have been left in the veldt. Killed 
a fine handsome specimen of what I fancy is to be a 
new species of Lamprotonies. In the afternoon very 
ill ; Africa also weak, and unable to do any kind of 
work. It is strange we should all be attacked with low 
fever. Can there be anything in Typandeka's assertion 
that our camp is too cold. I have no doubt there is 
water beneath us, for I find the natives often digging 
at the root of fig-trees. 

" Saturday, 2d June. — Axel so much better as to 
be able to go about his ordinary business. As for my- 
self I am wretched ; my bowels must be terribly out of 
order. One of the Ovaquamyama lads sulky, and has 
actually run away. I must try to catch the scoundrel, 
and, at all risks, give him a good flogging. Thermom- 
eter at sunrise, 48 ; noon 78 ; sunset, 74 . 

"Sunday, ^d June. — Very poorly, my stomach is 
becoming almost as disorded as when at Ondonga. I 
must take more exercise ; but it hurts me, the head 
being always more or less affected thereby. Typan- 
deka sent word he would visit me, and that some ivory 
would be forthcoming for the guns. Informed him in 
reply that I myself was very ill, which, as he did not 
make his appearance, probably prevented his coming. 
Thermometer at sunrise, 42 ; noon, 79 ; sunset, 72 . 

" Monday, 4th June: — Spent a dreadful night, and 
thinking greater exercise might do me good, took a 
long ride in a new direction. Swallowed a dose of 
*3 






298 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

salts this morning-, as I am perfectly constipated. 
Africa continues weak. Typandeka with me ; told 
him of my desire to visit the Cunene" and Humbi. To 
my proceeding to the river he had no objection to 
make, but said it was useless for me to go to Humbi, as 
the people there were unfriendly. This is all nonsense. 
In my very helpless state, however, I can do nothing 
but bide events, and some lucky incident may yet enable 
me to put myself in communication with the Portu- 
guese. If not, I shall probably retrace my steps to 
Ondonga, as soon as possible, and from thence to Da- 
maraland. My health will never hold out another 
year without medical aid. Asked Typandeka to send 
one of the Bangara traders to me. Thermometer at 
sunrise, 41 ° ; noon, 74 ; sunset, 68°. This is one of 
the coldest days we have had. A northerly breeze, 
which is quite unusual, has been blowing. 

" Tuesday, $th June. — Thermometer at sunrise, 
40 ; noon, 74 . Out shooting ; both the Ovaquamyama 
boys hiding away in the bush ; have sent to the chief, 
requesting him to furnish me with others in their stead. 
Trust he will grant my request, for this is quite dis- 
tressing. 

" Wednesday, 6th June. — The lads just spoken of ap- 
peared by the cattle in the course of the morning ; gave 
them no food last night, which acted better than a flog- 
ging, for there was no trouble with them to-day, but 
how long will it last ? Typandeka sent for me in the 
afternoon ; but being very unwell I felt half inclined to 
refuse the invitation ; went, however, to his werft, 
where I was kept waiting a full hour, and when I saw 
him he seemed half drunk. He offered me some Portu- 



- VILLAGES VERY NUMEROUS. 299 

guese brandy, which I refused with disgust ; he also 
proffered me two kinds of beer, one of them so full of 
meal that it might be said to contain both food and 
drink. 

" Thursday, yth June. — The chief made his appear- 
ance about 9 o'clock, with some men ; at 11.30 A.M., I 
succeeded in making a start. Axel played me a thought- 
less trick at the outset, which nearly put an end to the 
day's journey ; but luckily all terminated satisfactorily 
at the expense of some twenty minutes' delay. Pro- 
ceeded till 4.40 P. M., when I off-saddled ; the guides 
wanted to go farther, but I was quite done up ; course 
at first pretty steady at 1 5 5 , but varied; afterward 
between 155 and 140 , the last half hour we even went 
120 ; nevertheless the average will probably be 150°. 
Travelled at a good pace 

•' As far as we have thus come there would be no 
difficulty about bringing a wagon ; we only passed two 
insignificant bushes. In traversing the last wood, which 
offered no impediment to our vehicle, I observed the 
singular fact that nearly every tree of a certain species 
was all but destroyed, little more than the trunk itself, 
and sometimes not even that, remaining. It must be 
a very brittle wood and easily injured ; no other tree 
seemed to have suffered any damage. 

" Friday, %th June. — Thermometer at sunrise, 44 . 
Left bivouac at 7.30 A.M. ; road frightfully winding. For 
the two-and-a-half hours I was at a loss to put down 
a course, say 140°. Came to a halt at 11. 10; nearly 
an hour's delay, and slow, irregular travelling. 

" Up to this point villages very numerous, and there 
seemed more corn, which grows to great perfection. 



300 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Observed no jungle forest, but immense number of 
baobabs. Off again at two o'clock. Find our halting 
place is really the end of the inhabited portion of the 
country to the westward. Came to a halt after what 
I fancied must have been two-and-half hours' smart 
travelling, but cannot tell exactly, as my watch got one 
of her fits to stop. Passed several vleys, but not a 
water-bird to be seen. Regular Waguambi bush and 
forest ; hitherto there have been no particular obstacles 
for a wagon. Deadly ill ; drink large quantities of icy- 
cold water. I dare say it does me no good, but I can- 
not help it. Got large reinforcement of men to our 
original outfit, some thirty in all now. I suppose they 
are afraid to visit the river in small parties. Course 
nearly 140 . 

"Saturday, gth June. — Left bivouac at 5.55 A. M. ; 
came to a halt at 9.35 ; two minutes' delay. Course 
most variable; for the first two hours perhaps 130 , 
afterward as much as 150 , if not more northerly. I 
never travelled with any natives who understood mov- 
ing on a straight line so little. Every five minutes we 
are off at an angle of 45 . 

" Saw one wild pig and an ostrich. Axel fired un- 
successfully at the former. I fancy the lad got fright- 
ened, as the pig was coming toward him, probably with 
a view of seeing what object it could be. The country 
seems very destitute of game, but there are spoors of 
elands, giraffes, and gemsboks. Off again at twelve ; 
bivouacked at three o'clock; course for the first two 
hours nearly north, or about 170 , afterward, perhaps 
140 . The people, who have now become utterly un- 
manageable, move about in the most disorderly man- 



FOUND A FINE VLEY. 301 

ner. They chase squirrels the whole day. Observed a 
troop of hartebeest, and another of elands. Country 
quite open for wagons ; I am inclined to think the people 
are taking us a circuitous route, but for what purpose 
heaven only knows. 

"Sunday, \otk June. — Thermometer at sunrise 50 . 
Left bivouac at 6.18 A. M. ; came to a halt at 9.18, per- 
haps ten minutes' delay ; course nearly north. Sud- 
denly abandoned this morning, not only by the two 
Ovaquamyama lads, but by all Typandeka's people, the 
guide included. What can be the meaning of such vil- 
lainous conduct ? Surely the chief never meant us to 
be conveyed into a perfect desert, and there left to shift 
for ourselves ? However, if they thought that by leav- 
ing us they would cause us to turn back, they will find 
themselves egregiously mistaken. It is not the first 
time I have been thus treacherously dealt with ; but 
then I had my own men in sufficient numbers. Now 
there are but two left to me, one of whom must carry 
a heavy burden, and he, moreover, is weak and ailing in 
his leg ; but what I most dread is the want of water. 
Of food we have as yet enough, but the precious liquid 
seems scarce. I was very thankful therefore, when I 
found a fine vley after three hours' travel. Observed 
bustard, gemsboks, wild pigs, and a troop of elands. 
Axel had a sho.t at one of the latter, and says he 
wounded it. Off again at 1.50 P. M. ; bivouacked at 
4.30. Course nearly 160 ; travelled steadily and with- 
out delay. Saw much game, both four-footed and 
feathered ; as also the recent tracks of others. Franco 
lins, of more than one kind, were very abundant. Our 
Otjimbingue friend killed an individual which I at first 



302 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

took to be new to me, but it may be Fr. S., only it is 
so small. Was fortunate enough to find a fine vley of 
water, by which we bivouac. Thus one day of our for- 
lorn condition is happily ended. 

" Monday, nth June. — Thermometer at sunrise, 45°. 
Left camp at 5.53 ; came to a halt at seven, in conse- 
quence of Axel having a violent attack of tooth-ache. 
This is a great drawback, as one does not know when 
he will ?et better of it. Lions about durino- the ni^ht 
and this morning. Axel's ox ran away with and threw 
him, breaking girths, nose-rein, etc. Have had the 
great misfortune to lose my watch keys; and, as ill-luck 
will have it, I have no pinchers or tongs small enough 
to serve as substitutes. Got a real fright ; for a couple 
of hours both horse and cattle were lost to us, having 
strayed to a distance ; their disappearance for good 
would have been tantamount to the sacrifice of my 
own life, at least, since I can hardly walk a distance of 
one hundred paces. 

" Tuesday, \2th June. — Thermometer at day-break, 
45 . Left bivouac some twenty minutes before sun- 
rise ; and after, as nearly as I can guess, two and a-half 
hours' travel, reached the Cunene, or rather its over- 
flowings, for no stream was visible to the eye, all that 
was to be seen being an immense expanse of reeds and 
rushes, where we again came to a halt. Both Axel and 
Goliath seemed much gratified that I had brought 
them thus far in safety. 

" On the way from our last bivouac, we observed 
some giraffes, and Axel, who by this time had recov- 
ered from his tooth-ache, shot a duiker, and in the reeds 
now before us we noticed some antelopes, and an abun- 



MAGNIFICENT SCENERY ON THE CUNENE. 303 

dance of water-fowl. The forest, moreover, swarming 
with birds. Water boils here at 107J ; atmosphere 
shortly before 88°. No, it was next to impossible to 
read off the true thermometer, it having become so 
blackened ; the defective one, however, reads about the 
same. In the afternoon, while debating as to the like- 
lihood of our soonest reaching the river by following 
the reeds in question in an eastern or western direction, 
some seven or eight natives, a few of them armed with 
the old Portuguese musket, suddenly made their ap- 
pearance, and that without showing signs either of sur- 
prise or apprehension. I gave them some Cavendish 
tobacco and meat, with which they seemed mightily 
pleased ; fortunately, they understood the Damara 
language so well that Goliath was enabled to converse 
with them pretty fairly. Told us they belonged to 
Humbi, or Gombe, as it was pronounced in these parts, 
and that we were not far from thence ; that we must 
follow the banks of the river, and then an Omuramba, 
which would lead us to the ferry, where we had only 
to shout to be heard by the ferry-men on the other 
side, and to be responded to. The commandant, they 
said, would be delighted to see us. May all this prove 
true ; as to the river itself they described it as small. 
How can this be ? All Europeans who have been 
favored with a si^ht of the Cunene, have described it 
as a glorious river, with magnifient scenery on its banks. 
The only explanation I can give is that, from the 
country hereabouts being so flat, the side-Mowings 
absorb so much of the main stream. In some parts 
the vegetation reminds one of the Okavango and the 
Teoughe. Evidently much game hereabouts. Axel 



304 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

had a couple of shots at pallahs, and says he saw two 
dark brown antelopes without either horns or tails! 
What on earth could they have been ? 

" Wednesday, i^th June. — Could hardly shut my eyes 
last night, from thinking of the pack-oxen, which man- 
aged to elude our attention just before tying-up time. 
As soon as it was light enough, I set out, with Goliath 
and Axel, in search of the animals, hoping to find them 
close to our camp ; but in this I was wofully disap- 
pointed ; had the utmost difficulty in discovering and 
following their ' spoor,' which was lost dozens of times, 
I accompanied the lads to near our former bivouac 
when I returned to camp, giving them strict injunctions 
not to show themselves without the cattle. It seems 
these had touched and drunk at the vley, and then, 
without stopping to feed, had pursued their course for 
Ovaquamyama ; however, they were overtaken before 
they had gone far, and were safely brought back in the 
afternoon. Now, suppose they had been lost in earn- 
est, our lot would have been a miserable one. I have 
not enough people to attend to everything, and feel 
sure that the brutes will continue to give us trouble 
and anxiety as we proceed. Lions about during the 
night. It is a great mercy they did not come across 
the strayed cattle. Thermometer at sunrise, 43I- ; noon, 
88° ; and in the sun, 105 . Having lost so much time, 
I packed up in the afternoon ; but it was a foolish thing 
to do, as both men and beasts were fagged. The sun, 
moreover, is frightfully scorching. Goliath suffers so 
much from his leg that he is unable to walk, and stands 
with difficulty. After more than an hour's languid 
travelling, we bivouacked on the bank of the river, 



MESSAGE TO GOMEE. 305 

which we can now fairly see for the first time ; but it is 
as yet an insignificant stream. Excessively poorly. 

" Thursday, 14th June. — Goliath managed to assist 
in packing the oxen ; gave him one to ride, while Axel 
carried the sextant, etc. After about one and a half 
hours' travel we came to a place where many paths met, 
and where people had been sleeping ; thought it best 
to pack-off and shout. The Gombe men spoken of, 
said the ferry was not far off, and I am afraid of pass- 
ing it, the more so as the road ahead does not look 
near so well beaten. After an immense deal of shout- 
ing and bawling, we were at length answered, and in 
the afternoon five men made their appearance ; treated 
them to snuff and a little meat, and sent them up to 
inform the Commandment at Humbi of my arrival. 
Gave them a copy of my passports, and a short note to 
their chief; trust they will safely deliver the little 
packet, which they took charge of with considerable 
distrust. 

" Friday, i$th June. — Thermometer at sunrise, 43-J- ; 
and at mid-day, 87 . In the afternoon the men to whom 
I had intrusted my letter returned with it unopened, 
and of course unread. This made me at once suspect 
they had never delivered it. Nor could we make head 
or tale of their statements, which were mere rigmarole. 
However, they said the white men were awaiting us, 
and that" we had better cross over ; the werft, they 
added, was not far off. I did not much like following 
their advice, but, seeing no better alternative, we sad- 
dled up and went down fo the river, where, after taking 
the things from off the cattle, we were told we must pay 
before proceeding further. This at once confirmed my 



306 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

suspicions as to their never having informed the Portu- 
guese of our arrival. I was taken a little aback, and 
told them that I did not know that it was customary to 
pay beforehand, but that, nevertheless, I would do 
what was reasonable. ' What would be the payment ? 
I inquired. ' Beads, a coat, calico, or the like/ was the 
reply. I had neither the one nor the other to spare, 
but promised to procure the needful from the Portu- 
guese as soon as we arrived at their station. ' No,' said 
they, ' we will first go home, but return early to-mor- 
row.' ' If such be the case,' I said, in rejoinder, ' you 
will not find us here.' But they remained deaf to my 
remonstrances, probably never dreaming that I would 
keep my word, and departed the way they came. When 
they were gone, we returned to our bivouac, which, 
though only a few hundred yards distant, I was hardly 
able to reach from weakness, and where, after vomiting 
a great quantity of water, I all but swooned away. 

" Saturday, 16th June. — So ill for a few hours last 
night that I almost despaired of my life ; another such 
attack or two would, I feel certain, prove fatal. It 
seems to me that life at times hangs on an elastic string, 
which an unusual tension will instantly sever. If it 
were not for the few drops of morphia that I take 
nightly, I should never be able to resist these repeated 
attacks of excessive weakness. At times I think it a 
little hard never more to see the faces of the beloved 
ones, but then I resign myself to God's will. 

" Left bivouac at sunrise ; got back to our old sleep- 
ing place in good time. Observed numerous pallahs, 
and had I been provided with a rifle could easily have 
brought down a couple. Succeed at last in securing 



A LARGE MALE LION. 2>°7 

the new craterope, that I have observed since our arri- 
val on the 'river. 

" Just at dusk Axel succeeded in knocking over a 
large male water-buck (Aigocerus Ellipsiprymnus), proba- 
bly an adult. I wish it had been a pallah instead, as its 
flesh is reported to be most unpalatable ; however, it 
is meat, and we are now safe from starvation. But we 
can only carry a small portion with us ; it is to be 
hoped, however, the natives will come, when we might 
exchange as much as we don't require for vegeta- 
bles, etc. 

"Sunday, ijth June. — The meat of the water-buck 
answers to its ill-repute, being excessively tough and 
unsavory ; even the heart and liver are barely eatable. 
In the afternoon a number of Humbi men made their 
appearance ; treated them to meat and tobacco, and 
offered to exchange some of the former for meal, beans, 
etc. ; said they were willing, and would return to-morrow 
with the needful ; hope they will keep their word, as 
Axel, my store-keeper, is now without the former, and 
his beans are all but gone also. Excessively ill my- 
self; had a sharp attack of ague. 

"Monday, iZth June. — Axel came full upon a large 
male lion this morning as he was seeking for a wounded 
bird ; this is the second time he has been lucky enough 
to fall in with one of those beasts. He says it took 
not the slightest notice of him, and to the report of 
his gun was equally indifferent." 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Premonitions of death — Axel Ericson's account of Andersson's last 
days — Extreme sufferings — Death of the traveller — Notice of his 
career and death in the " Cape Town Mail " — General regret in 
Sweden — Recognition of his merits as a Discoverer — In Memoriam. 

ON the 1 6th of June, as shown by Andersson's 
Journal, he retraced his steps to his former en- 
campments, where he remained until the 18th ; when, 
worn-out with his manifold sufferings, and chagrined at 
the treatment he had met with at the hands of the 
ferrymen, he turned his back on the Cunene, and set 
off on his return to Ondonga, and this under no very 
favorable auspices ; as to say nothing of his most 
miserable state of health, his whole escort, so to speak, 
consisted merely of the two lads, Axel and Goliath, the 
rest of his people, as recently shown, having deserted 
him. 

But this his retrograde movement was made too 
late, for the hand of death was then upon him, and 
though he lingered a short time longer, in which his 
sufferings would appear to have been dreadful; yet, 
with the exception of a letter to one of his people 
regarding his worldly affairs, and a most affectionate one 
to his poor wife,* both of which were penned only a 

* After speaking of some private matters, he goes on to say : 
" I wanted to have told you a long time ago of my approaching 
death, but had not the courage to do so ; and now I find it is nearly too 



PREMONITIONS OF DEATH. 309 

day or two before his dissolution, he does not appear 
to have been capable of any exertion whatever. We 
are, therefore, indebted for what is known of his last 
days to his faithful follower, Axel Ericson, who, in a 
letter to poor Mrs. Andersson, says : 

" Not hearing further from the Bangarris, and no 
other course being left to him, Mr. Andersson, then 
worn out with illness, determined on retracing his steps 
to Ondonga. On the fourth day, we reached the first 
of the Ovaquamyama werfts, but the people refused to 
show us the way to the chiefs residence, and we were 
therefore necessitated, to find it out as best we could by 
the aid of the compass. At length, on the sixth day, 
we arrived at Typandeka's abode, Mr. Andersson being 
then quite exhausted, when I immediately made his 
bed in the cart, and from this bed he was never able 
to rise without my assistance. 

" One of the head men, shortly after our arrival, 
came over to visit Mr. Andersson, who requested to see 
Typandeka himself, with whom, as he told the man, he 

late, as I am dying fast from the united effects of extreme debility, 
dysentery, etc. I have been senseless more than once during the last few 
days, but have at last roused myself to this last effort. 

" Oh ! blessed wife, we shall never meet in this life again, but surely 
in the next. I had thoughts of turning this journey to such good account 
for my poor family : and though it may have cost me my life, it is to be 
hoped it will bring something to your home, poor wife ! I can see you so 
overwhelmed with grief when these lines reach you, and that you learn 
my bones are bleaching in this distant wilderness. 

" I feel ill-prepared to leave this world ; but I trust in God's mercy, 
and, above all, in His immeasurable love in sacrificing His only Son in 
order to redeem a wicked mankind. I very much want Divine consola- 
tion and support. A good honest clergyman would be a boon in my 
poor forlorn condition ; but I too weak to write more. " 



3IO NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

was greatly displeased. But not until eight days after- 
ward did the chief make his appearance, and then he 
looked afraid, and would not venture in the vicinity of 
the tree where we had encamped, but sat down at some 
little distance. I had to lay some skins and karosses 
on the ground near to the chief, and thence to carry my 
poor master, the tears flowing from my eyes while 
I bore him like a child in my arms. All he said 
to Typandeka was : ■ Behold what your people have 
done. I shall let Nauma, Ochikongo, and Kamaherero 
know of it.' After this he requested me to carry him 
back again to the cart. 

"The third day after our arrival at Typandeka's 
werft, he said to me, ! Axel, my last day is near'; and 
on the following one, June 27, he called me, and after- 
ward wrote his last letter to his wife. He then named 
to me the prices of some articles for sale, and cautioned 
me not to leave Damaraland until the hunters went 
west. 

" The day after Typandeka's visit we set out ; but 
first I tried to make Andersson's bed in the cart as 
comfortable as possible, notwithstanding which he, at 
the least jolting of the vehicle, would cry out with the 
agony it caused him. 

11 Early on the third day, as I was assisting him in 
his bed, something seemed to break in his stomach, and 
he suddenly grew worse, and a kind of green slime came 
running from his mouth. He said, ' Now, Axel, it is 
all over with me.' He then requested me to read some 
Psalms suitable for a dying person, which I did ; and 
having read them over twice, he remarked, ' How beau- 
tiful is the Swedish Psalm-book !' and continued, ' Greet 



DEATH OF ANDERSSON. 31I 

Een, and tell him how sorry I am not to see him again '; 
and added, ' I am now satisfied to die, I suffer so fear- 
fully.' 

" The next day he appeared a little better, and on 
the following one, the 4th of July, we left the last of the 
Ovaquamyama werfts, early in the morning, but were 
necessitated to make two trecks to enable us to reach 
the water. In the afternoon, Mr. Andersson became 
very sick, and the whole of that night and the following 
day the slime aforementioned was constantly running 
from his mouth ; his weakness had now reached its ex- 
treme point. In the afternoon he, however, asked for 
a piece of fried liver, which I immediately prepared, 
and some of which he ate, but scarcely a quarter of an 
hour elapsed ere he died. 

" As I could not bury Mr. Andersson's remains in a 
place where I might not afterward be enabled to find 
them, I inspanned, and made a moonlight treck; and 
next day, about noon, arrived at the first werft of the 
Ovaquambi. Here I decided on making my master's 
grave ; but the chief Nauma would not consent to his 
remains being interred so near to him, and I was therefore 
compelled to retrace my way back about a quarter of an 
hour ; and there, between two trees on the right of the 
road, I found for them a resting-place. I had only an 
axe and a tin dish with which to make the grave, and 
this was in hard, clayey soil. 

" When I afterward asked Nauma why he should 
order me to bury his friend so far away in the bush, he 
wanted to send people' back to reopen the grave ; but 
this I of course would not permit." 

Thus miserably perished in the flower of his age 



312 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

(he was only forty-two), Charles John Andersson, add- 
ing another to the long list of enterprising men who 
have left their bones to whiten in the African wilder- 
ness. 

On its being known at Cape Town that he had been 
thus prematurely cut off, the newspapers and periodicals 
were filled with panegyrics on the poor fellow, and 
regrets for his death ; of which the following, from the 
" Advertiser and Mail," is a fair specimen ; and I quote it 
the rather as the extract contains a short biographical 
sketch of Andersson's early life : 

" Year by year, and even month by month, it is our 
melancholy task to chronicle the decease of men who 
stood conspicuous among the benefactors of their 
country and fellow-countrymen ; and who, by their 
departure, leave blanks behind them which their suc- 
cessors find it difficult to replace. Another of these we 
have to announce to-day in the death of John Charles 
Andersson, one of the bravest of explorers, the most 
enthusiastic of sportsmen, the most observant of natural- 
ists, and withal as gentle and modest in feeling and 
demeanor as intrepid and fearless when surrounded 
with the most appalling dangers. 

" Mr. Andersson, though a Swede by birth, was 
half an Englishman by blood, and quite a South African 
by adoption. From his father, a gentleman connected 
with some of the best families in England, he inherited 
a passion for sport and for nature, even in her wildest 
and sternest moods. When quite a youth, for family 
reasons he adopted his mother's family and Swedish 
name of Andersson; and at the age of twenty-two, in 
1840, he visited England, and there met with Mr, Gal- 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 313 

ton, who was then organizing an expedition for the 
exploration of South-Western Africa. Arrangements 
were made by which he was to accompany Mr. Galton 
on this adventurous trip ; and in the following year they 
reached Cape Town, and proceeded together to Wal- 
wich Bay, whence they penetrated through Damara- 
land to the then utterly unexplored country of Ovampo- 
land as far as Ondonga — a densely populated locality 
where within some thirty miles there are something like 
twenty thousand inhabitants. 

" Of this journey, a most graphic and interesting 
account was soon afterward published by Mr. Galton, 
in a work which at once stamped that gentleman as 
one of the most skilful of travellers and explorers. 
After their return, while Mr. Galton proceeded to Eng- 
land, Mr. Andersson set about organizing, in 185 1 or 
1852, an independent expedition of his own to Lake 
Ngami. In this he succeeded admirably, reached the 
Lake, and penetrated a considerable distance to the 
northward of it. The results of his observations and 
explorations on that expedition, as well as the previous 
one, he -published in his well-known and admirable 
volume entitled ' Lake Ngami,' which was prepared 
under his own personal superintendence in London, 
1856, and which attracted the attention and secured the 
applause of the most distinguished literary and scientific 
authorities at home, from the i Athenaeum ' to the 
1 Quarterly Review.' 

11 We well remember our first meeting with him, 
then in London, in Bloomsbury Square, near the Brit- 
ish Museum, and the hearty welcome he met with from 
the Museum authorities, who knew so well how to 
14 



314 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

appreciate the rich and abundant stores of specimens 
he had brought home with him from the wilds of 
Africa. 

" In the following year he returned to the Cape, and 
accepted an appointment as superintendent of the 
mining operations of the Walwich Bay Mining Com- 
pany. These proving unsuccessful, the engagement 
was soon broken off, and Mr. Andersson, his passion for 
travel and adventure still strong upon him, resolved on 
another expedition into the Interior. His friend, Mr. 
Green, having failed in an attempt to reach the Cunene 
— the boundary river between Ovampoland and the 
Portuguese possessions — he determined to repeat the 
effort, and to trace the river to its supposed source east- 
ward toward Lake Ngami. Instead of the Cunene, he 
struck upon the Okavango, a river flowing eastward ; 
and here it was he encountered a ferocious rhinoceros, 
which thrust its horn into his thigh, inflicting a gashing 
wound, which kept him months a helpless cripple in his 
tent. On his return to Otjimbingue he wrote an 
account of his journey, which was soon afterward pub- 
lished in a handsome and most interesting volume, 
entitled • The Okavango.' Shortly after this he arrived 
in Cape Town, and in 1861 married the sister of Mr. 
Atchison, the Secretary of the Post Office, and with her 
proceeded to Otjimbingue, in Damaraland, where he 
had accumulated a considerable amount of property, 
and where he intended settling down in lucrative trade, 
supplying the elephant-hunters with the stores they 
required, and forwarding cattle and ivory to Cape Town 
in return. For some time this went on successfully, 
and large herds of cattle were sent down to Namaqua- 



ORNITHOLOGICAL STUDIES. 315 

land, and across the Orange river. Then came the 
unfortunate and miserable war between the Damaras 
and Namaquas, in which Mr. Andersson felt that the 
latter were the assailants, and in the wrong ; and living 
as he did among the Damaras, with all the chivalry of 
his nature, he devoted himself to their cause, and find- 
ing them to be cowards as they were, he himself became 
their chief and leader in the war. The natural result 
was embittered hostility against him by the Namaquas; 
so that the herds of cattle which he was then forward- 
ing through their country to the colony were stopped, 
seized, and confiscated. This was heavy loss enough, 
but worse followed. 

" In an attack by the Namaquas upon his own sta- 
tion of Otjimbingue he led the repelling party ; and in 
the heat of the conflict found himself deserted by the 
cowards for whom he had ventured all. He was shot 
down by a bullet, which smashed his leg, and it was 
almost by a miracle that he escaped with his life. By 
the careful attention of his devoted wife, and the mis- 
sionaries, and though last, not least, Mr. Baines, the 
artist, who happened to be then at Otjimbingue, he 
survived this wound ; but when he returned some nine 
months afterward to Cape Town, it was only to find 
himself pronounced, by the surgeons whom he consulted, 
a cripple for life. During his long stay as an invalid 
here, at the residence of his brother-in-law, he devoted 
the weary hours to the composition of a work which he 
fondly hoped would prove the crowning triumph of his 
career. This was an elaborate and scientific description 
of the Birds of South-West Africa, the materials for 
which in his possession were of the richest and most 



316 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

extensive character. His collection of birds — of which 
duplicates and triplicates were sent to the museums at 
home — was exceedingly varied ; the colored illustra- 
tions of them, prepared by his friend Mr. Baines and 
himself, in Damaraland, were very superb, and as they 
were then exhibited at the Public Library (and may 
still be seen there) attracted the admiration of every 
one ; while his MS. descriptions of them extended over 
very many volumes. Arrangements were made with 
Messrs. Day and Son, of London, to have the work 
published in the first style of art at a cost of ^"3,000, 
and a large number of subscribers were found over the 
colony to make up the guarantee required by the pub- 
lishers. 

" But, in the meantime, the energetic traveller, 
though a cripple in person, and by that disastrous 
Damara war utterly ruined in property, lost not a jot 
of effort or enterprise. Accordingly, in May of 1866 he 
left Cape Town and proceeded to Damara once more. 
His first ventures in trade were successful ; but his ill- 
luck still attended him, for the stores of ivory, feathers, 
etc., which from the interior he had sent down to Wal- 
wich Bay were seized by Namaqua marauders and car- 
ried away. His next determination was to proceed 
northward through Ovampoland, and open up a trade 
between the white hunters of the south and the Portu- 
guese possessions to the north of the Cunene. Mr. 
Smuts, who is now in Cape Town, informs us that when 
he last saw Mr. Andersson it was at Ondonga, and that 
then he seemed in miserable health, but still bent upon 
his northward venture. That was in May of last year. 
How he fared since then, and until he met his melan- 



ACKNOWLEDGMENT FOR SERVICES. 317 

choly fate in July, is touchingly told in the tale forwarded 
by his faithful Swedish attendant to Mr. Frederick Green, 
which reached Cape Town only yesterday, and which 
will be found elsewhere in our columns to-day. 

" And thus has poor Andersson gone, and left a de- 
voted wife and four helpless children to lament their 
irreparable loss. But his name will long be remembered. 
It is marked ineffaceably on the map of Africa. What 
Livingstone has achieved for the East Coast, that has 
Charles J. Andersson done for the West ; and his name 
and fame will be ranked with those of the Bruces and 
Parkes of earlier days, and the Livingstones, Spekes, 
Burtons, and Bakers of our own time." 

In Sweden, his native country, his sad fate was 
greatly deplored, not only by his numerous friends and 
acquaintances, but by the public generally, as is to 
be inferred from articles that appeared in the press 
overflowing with his praises, and laments for his un- 
timely end. 

In conclusion, I would remark that Andersson, as 
an explorer in unknown lands, stood high in the esti- 
mation of the scientific world ; for though his discoveries, 
as compared with those of some others, may sink, in a 
degree at least, into insignificance, they were still con- 
siderable, and as such were recognized by several learned 
bodies ; among the rest by the Royal Geographical So- 
ciety of London, which presented him with a. valuable 
testimonial, and by the University of Lund, in Sweden, 
where he graduated, which conferred on him the dignity 
of Doctor of Philosophy — "a fitting acknowledgment 
for the services rendered to the cause of civilization and 
science." But the diploma, unfortunately, did not 



318 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

arrive in Africa until after Andersson had passed be- 
yond the reach of earthly distinctions, 

It may be proper to add that those in Sweden who 
held Andersson dear have caused a simple marble tab- 
let to be placed in the parish church of Tunheim (near 
the town of Wenersborg), with an inscription in Swed- 
ish, which, translated, reads thus : 

®o tfct JEttmors of 
CHARLES JOHN ANDERSSON, 

THE AFRICAN TRA VELLER, 

BORN IN WERMELAND (SWEDEN), 1827, 

DIED IN THE OVAMPO WILDERNESS (SOUTH AFRICA), 1867. 



During life he feared God, 

And, dying, trusted in His mercy." 



THE END. 



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